Text and photos by Roger Parkyn (unless noted).
The Candlestick sits at the end of Cape Hauy. It's about a two hour walk to get there.
I did this trip with Steve Bunton, Vera Wong and Stefan Eberhard. Four is a good number for this route; not too crowded but is good fun and helps carry all the gear required (eg spare ropes to leave fixed for the tyrolean back).
To begin with Stefan is abseiling to get to the water's edge. The Candlestick is then only about 20 (wet) metres away. This day the swell was crashing through the gap (as is typical). Luckily Bunty volunteerd to take the rope, timing it between waves, he jumped in and swam like a demon. Note: make sure your swimmer swims the Foretescue Bay side of the Totem Pole. This may be the scarier option but the ropes are otherwise likely to jam on the Totem Pole when you try to get the tyrolean going. |
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With the rope fixed to the Candlestick the rest of us could get across dry! Yon can (just) see Stefan at the bottom of the crossing. |
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A stiff pull was required to do the last bit onto the candlestick. That's the bottom part of the Totem Pole behind my back. Photo: Vera Wong. |
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Vera is enjoying getting onto some actual climbing at last. This corner system goes for two or three pitches (about 16) onto a big ledge. For someone brought up on the choss heaps of the Southern Alps, like myself, the rock is excellent. I wouldn't consider this one without a helmet though. Paul Pritchard even copped a rock on the far more secure, Totem Pole. |
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From the ledge this elegant hand crack leads to the summit (Vera Wong leading). It's about grade 18 (an easier looking scramble exists to the left). Photo: Stefan or Bunty (?). |
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Stefan reaches the summit, belayed by Vera. |
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Here Vera is doing the "tyrolean" on the way back to the mainland. The slack tyrolean we have used puts a lot less stress on the system than one cranked up like a tight-rope. |
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Steven Bunton following the same "pitch". By this stage several fishing boats had paused to watch. It was a great day out. For me it's reminescent of an alpine trip. Teamwork, being efficient in your processes and being parsimonious in your equipment count more than technical rock climbing ability. Take a head torch for insurance though! |
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