Feedback & New Routes

Confuscious once said "He who doesn't make mistakes doesn't make anything". This is particularly true for guide book writing.

If you know of errors, inaccuracies or descriptions that could be improved let everyone know about it.  Feedback can be sent in to roger.parkyn@oa.hydro.com.au. If you haven't got anything useful to contribute but just want to have a winge write to Australian Rock instead; they like that sort of stuff and you'll get to see your name in print.  

For most people, there's a natural resistance to getting around to it; hopefully the widening prevalence of email will reduce the hastle and get more info moving.  Email helps at my end too because I haven't got the time to transcribe hand written stuff onto the machine. 

Guidlines for info:

Try and follow the layout as per Craglets (ie name, length, grade, description, leader of the first ascent).  In the description avoid using the word "obvious"; you wouldn't believe the number of people who describe their route at a dolerite crag as "take the obvious crack ...". 

Try and include actual distances and reference points (eg "start 15 m left of x, follow the crack to the overhang then cross right 2 m to a bolt" is better than "start near x then cross right to finish"). 

I've softened on only putting the leader of first ascents (seeing seven ascentionists listed for an obscure 10 m long grade 15 looks stupid).  If the second played an important role in creating the climb (beyond simply belaying and following  it) then their contribution is relevant so add their name, otherwise don't bother. 

The style of the ascent is also relevant.  True ascents only please!  The rules of the game change over the years but this is how I see the current situation:

• Each pitch has to be lead in one go from each belay (insisting on no falls all the way up a multi-pitch route is a little contrived).
• If aid is used it should be noted (A0 for a rest, A1 for pulling on gear).
• Pre-inspection by top-roping is OK as it results in better bolt placements (although most climbers consider it wanky to rehearse and then space them out dangerously).   Weird concepts like "ground up" first ascents are best left with the Californians; if you're going to bolt then do a good job of it.  The shonky efforts that result from lead bolting should be avoided if possible. 
• Pre-placement of gear on a natural route isn't a free ascent; this is equivalent to aid and should be noted (or just be honest with yourself and admit that the route hasn't been climbed yet! Leave it for someone who can).

Routes that don't belong in Craglets:

Not everything can, or should, be recorded.  Loosely speaking the following don't need to be bothered with:

Link-ups: Climbing part way up a route then crossing to another to finish can be an interesting way to vary the climb but it is impractical to include such variations. 

Out-of-style ascents: Turning up and tossing a top-rope down something at the Ben or the Pipes does not constitute a first ascent.  Call me a trad wanker if you like but sorry, most Tassie crags are not top-rope weenie hang-outs.  If it can't be climbed as a lead it isn't a route.  Exceptions to this are defined by traditional use (eg Rocky Tom). 

Unfindable routes: This should be obvious.  If you can't write a description good enough for others to find the route then there's little point wasting effort putting it into a guide book. 

Worthless Shite: Just because you hauled your wobbly ass up some obscure piece of choss doesn't mean everyone needs to be told.  If the crag hasn't got good climbs then stop wasting your time. 

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