MOUNT ROLAND
Edited by Matt Perchard & Andrew Bissett
Tony McKenny sent in this information: Just a quick note on the latest Craglets. Excellent! Really top value and I only wish some more of our climbing brethren in the north would record their routes for us to share. I was surprised (and pleased) to see you had included some of my old guide and that Rysavy is given a go. The farm is owned by Steve Brown who pioneered the original line and subsequently bought the property. His home phone number is 64282465 and at present he is more than pleased to have climbers on the crags. However, the present tenant of the farm has a rottweiler...... so it is probably best if people contact Steve first. The description for "Jubilee" is a bit inaccurate (see the red text below for changes to Craglets 6).
Rysavy ridge is included in this guide because it is a classic, long climb at a moderate grade. There are numerous other routes at Mount Roland, a few of which are listed here. Allow a full day to complete any of these climbs (for the standard Rysavy, approximately six hours for the climb and two for the descent).
The hours just drifted by, as I sat outside Andy's Bakery in Westbury, strumming a beat or two on the guitar, eating danishes, and waiting for my climbing buddy to turn up. Two-o'clock came and went, so too did three, and finally four rolled on with my partner. All well laid plans of a nice cruisy day succumbed as we decided that it was a great day, we'd both done Rysavy before so could blitz up it - and it was only 400m of easy climbing after all.
So started another great December's day. We cruised on through Claude Road, up to Silverridge Resort and headed up the hill to the cliff a half-hour distant. It was 5pm as we foolishly touched the rock - but that gave us four hours of light, so for twelve pitches or so we only had to do twenty minute pitches. We packed a torch…
Even more rash decisions followed, deciding to do it alpine style, with about 30m of rope and a few pieces of pro between us to combat any misdemeanours. The first couple of pitches were a doddle, thankfully, as in the haste protection was very sparse. I thought as I scrambled up amongst the trees near the third that the greenery was lending me more protection than my leader had… but at least it was straight up.
The climbing soon picked up after 4 or so normal pitches, with a crux-like overhanging headwall, only a few meters high, but still enough to add a spark to the climbing. After all, we were already up amid the dizzy heights of the mountain. Above was just bliss, the delicate cracks up the faces on the fifth/sixth, the step left and up the short but exposed slabs of the seventh/eighth, and the final jugging and meandering of the final pitches. The climbing got easier with height, and the atmosphere was awesome with huge cliffs rising everywhere around us. Don't miss that final knife-blade ridge traverse, with 400m drop on every side!
Just after 9pm we topped out to get glimpses of the sunset over the Reserve before heading down to the gloom and doom of the descent gully. After finally finding some suitable rocks we rapped down into the gully proper, then scrambled and abseiled the way down. Even this was interesting, to find yourself abseiling amidst huge 30m high trees dwarfing the drops they were hiding. Care was certainly needed as the drops and rocks rolled on without warning, but nothing too unpredictable.
In summary, the climbing was great, the experience was much more… an incredible place to be for an easy day out!
To find the route get to Gowrie Park, near Sheffield in the State’s central north. Drive along the main street (heading towards Cradle Mountain) until you see Rysavy road on your left. Drive along Rysavy road until the road ends and you reach a farm house (about 1km). At the time of writing this was vacant, but if it isn’t ask permission to cross the land and let us know of any access issues. Walk up a track past the farmhouse and sheds towards the ridge, which can be seen at 144o magnetic from the gate. Head up the left hand side of the cleared paddocks for as far as you can. At the top of the paddock is a large pile of rocks. A line of marking tapes and cairns start here and head straight up (still 144o MAG) to the base of the climb.
Kestrel 190m 8
Left of Slab Crack is an edge bordering the deep gully. The climb takes this and the steep upper sections.
F.Dutton, J.Richardson, Mar/77.
Slab Crack 90m 12
Start on the wall left of Jubilee and below the most prominent slabs.
1. Ascend the loose rock to the ledge below this (or solo from the right). Climb the crack, then jam left across the wall to belay atop.
2. Climb the small pillar, move left, then climb the slabs above. Belay at the bushes on the ledge.
3. Move to the lefthand end of the ledge, and climb the slabs, the crack through the overhangs. Continue to a small tree, then right to another crack. Up this to another wall, and belay in the gully.
4. Finish up the chimney.
S.Brown, R.Hamilton, 1977.
Jubilee Wall 150m 15
From the start to Rysavy Ridge walk left for 10m or so, until below the overhang (which appears detached). The notes in red are corrections to Craglets 6 supplied by Tony McKenny.
1. Climb the slabs to a thin crack. Up this to a small stance.
2. Up to the roof, traverse left and belay on top (not "Up the wall moving left to a larger crack and Kestrel").
3. After a move or two left climb the superb slabs above to a bush covered ledge.
4 & 5. From the rt. hand end of the ledge, climb a short slab and follow a crack through the overhang. Continue up the walls and chimneys to the large ledge. Descent down ledges to right and abseils to gully floor (Kestrel is about 50m to the left and the two routes never get within cooee of each other).
T.McKenny, S.Brown, Aug/77.
All of these routes finish above the steep slabs at the top. Descend by climbing up towards the notch, crossing the slabs, and then descending.
The Roof 45m 15
Start atop any of the three previous routes.
1. Climb the crack that splits the block on the left. Finish up the short chimney.
2. Scramble on up. (F.Dutton)
Descend by abseil then traversing to the notch. T.McKenny, G.Marshall, 1978.
The Wandering Jew 140m 15
Climb the descent route from the above routes, past the solitary gum, up the scrub, and to the crack up the slab. Traverse left to belay on the wall just right of The Roof. Avoid the crack and continue right across the wall, to gain the slab and finish. Descend as per that route.
J.Richardson, R.Hamilton,1978.
Rysavy Ridge 350m 11
The climb is fairly straight forward - you simply follow the path of least resistance up the ridge. Having said this it is NOT easy to escape from the top 100m or so of the ridge, the exposure is tremendous and the gear could be considered sparse if grade 11 is around your limit. At the top of the ridge scramble/ abseil down about 25m to the first abseil proper. A small tree is what you’re after, but look for the slings other parties have left behind (you may need to replace these) to guide you. Four or five abseils should see you back at the bottom. S.Brown, J.Wood, J.Richardson, T.McKenny, Feb/77.
There are a few routes to the right of Rysavy, none of which are considered to be of quality worthy of inclusion - until consensus proves to the contrary.