Access - walk 100m up from the bridge to the first major buttress.
Contents:
New Climbs:
This is a small buttress directly uphill of Cypress Buttress (Shady Side of Gorge; this is the crag in Craglets with Anopheles on it)
Ned 18
Upstream facing the river is a hand crack, thinning off at the top. The right hand edge is a bit hollow sounding. Rob Decesare Dennis Kearnes December 2000. ROB, DID I MISS SOMETHING HERE? IT DOESN"T SAY WHERE THEY ARE ??!!
Dirichnium Rectum 17
The thin crack leading to a face on the downstream facing side of the buttress. Rob Decesare Dennis Kearnes December 2000.
These routes are in a recently developed area, on the Trevallyn reserve side of the river, about half way between the first basin and duck reach. The easiest access to the area is to drive to the Hoo Hoo hut at Trevallyn reserve, and walk for about ten minutes down the track towards the first basin. About half way to the snake gully track turn off, at the crest of a rise is a cairn and pink marking tape leading right. Follow this for about 100 m and you should be at the top of the last climbs described. Climbs are described from left to right.
Pets Prefer Purple 15m 21
(5 bolts) Obvious undercut arete to ledge at ¾ height. Slab to top, 2 bolt lower off. R. De Cesare Feb. 2001.
Road to Moonarie 11m 20
10 m right and 3 m up hill from PPP. Arete start, then left up face past 2 bolts. After 2nd bolt right onto arete again past another bolt to 2 bolt lower off. D. Kearnes Feb. 2001.
Tulip Variant 11m 20
Start up Road to Moonarie then go left after 2nd bolt and finish up obvious, naturally protected crack. T. Alberts Feb. 2001.
Chilli Jam 10m 17
30 m up hill and right from TV. Natural protected corner to 2 bolt lower off. M. Fox Feb. 2001
GBH With a Deadly Possum 10m 18
Three metres right of CJ, climb the face up to overlap past 2 bolts. Right around arete past cams to 2 bolt lower off. M. Fox Feb. 2001.
Follow track 30 m up hill and follow contour 40 m right (downstream).
Over the top with Jim 9m 21
Face and arete climbing (both sides) 3 bolts to 2 bolt lower off. M. Fox Jan. 2001.
30 m downstream the next two climbs are on a free standing buttress.
Possum Lea 9m 23
Arete with 2 bolts. Shares lower offs with "Mr. Natural". M. Fox Jan. 2001.
Mr. Natural 9m 18
Start at the left leading diagonal crack three metres right of PL. Climb to the shallow corner, then to top. Wires for runners. Shares lower offs with Possum Lea. D. Kearnes Jan. 2001.
Shoes, Glue, & Almost No Can Do 7m 21
Face climbing with 2 bolts & a #1 friend at the top. Start five metres right of Mr N. J. Sharman Jan. 2001.
Not Just a Pretty Face 6m 17
Slabby arete five metres right of Shoes, 2 bolts, with 2 bolt lower off. D. Kearnes Jan. 2001.
Bolt belays now exist at the following cliffs (in addition to those mentioned in Craglets). They have been placed not for specific climbs, but to help service whole cliffs. It may be necessary to use natural gear for directional anchors in some cases. The bolts have been placed to spare trees, so don't use them (the trees, that is dickhead).
LAUNCESTON GORGE - All the Stuff in Craglets 5
Edited by Michael Fox
Climbing in Launceston happens mainly in the Gorge area which is 10 minutes walk from the centre of town. Consult any tourist map to find it. Having said that, there is also a huge amount of climbing to be found within 20 minutes drive of town, some of which is included in this guide (see North Esk Section). As with most of Tassie, a lot of the climbing is on dolerite crags, in cracks and corners, occasionally branching out on to the faces and aretes.
There is a long and rich history of climbing in and around Launceston as well as lots of beautiful plants, trees, birds and insects but you won’t find anything about that in here.
This section of the guide has only been possible thanks to the input of the local climbing community. That being said it is everyone’s responsibility to ensure editors are supplied accurate and up to date information. If you spot innaccuracies, let us know and we’ll fix them, if you’re not prepared to do this don’t complain about the product!!. As such this is a ragtag collection of gossip and innuendo and should be treated as such. A lot of these routes haven’t been done by yours truly so I can’t vouch for their grades, quality or even give them a character reference. A lot of the routes are not even known by names except as "that 19 left of...". In these cases I made up names for them because I got sick of writing "left of the 19...". Such climbs are marked with a #.
Climbers have worked closely with the Launceston City Council who were concerned about safety for climbers and walkers. As a compromise, to ensure continued climbing access, local climbers have agreed to follow the following guidelines when establishing new routes:
There is no intention to deter bold climbing or tell people when and where to bolt, but potential new routers should understand that this is an access issue and that there is much rock away from tourist areas.
The Gorge is the most popular climbing area in Launceston, it is broken into two areas. The Shady Side and the Sunny Side. Simple hey! Obviously climb on the Shady Side on hot sunny days and on the Sunny Side any other time. Be Safe. Be Good and ... use ‘adequate protection’.
All the climbs on the (south) Sunny Side of the Gorge can be accessed from the Zig-Zag track. See the sketch map for an idea of how to get to them.
Access- see map. The first major (8m) pinnacle that you come to on the uphill side of the zig-zag track. Beware the large flake on the right has been known to move. DBB on top.
Miff-Take 8m 19
Up the face on the front of the pinnacle to the horizontal break and then left to the crack. Thomas, McMahon, Ling, 1980.
Arete Direct 8m 20
Start in yellow open book corner, up to horizontal break and then up arete. Parsons (solo), 1982.
Seif 8m 17
From back right-hand edge of pinnacle traverse left to hand crack and up. McMahon, McHugh, 1972.
Various combinations of these have been done including a traverse around the whole pinnacle at the level of the horizontal break (at about 22).
Trackside Buttress
Access- see map. The largest piece of climbable rock right beside the track. The first ascentionists are long forgotten but it still makes an excellent place to start climbing with a lot of the routes off the vertical. Bolt belay on top.
Tree Route 8m 12
The hand-sized crack on the left-hand end. A great start to your jamming career.
Companion Corner 8m 12
Corner to 2m right of the Tree Route..
Apron Slab 10m 17
The left trending line of underclings.
Centre Corner 10m 16
What else
Fern Crack 10m 12
The crack 3m right of Centre Corner.
Nark 8m 19
The next arete right of Fern Crack.
Tremulo 8m 18
Boulder problem start in the shallow corner near the end of the buttress.
Lots of boulder problems and traverses also exist in this area.
Access- scramble up from the downstream end of Track Side Buttress. The climbs start around the corner on the downstream side and are 6-8m high.
Jamal 16
The off-width. McMahon, McHugh, 1972.
H-Block 18
Bulging hand crack to off-width. Moore (solo), 1978.
Felodice 23
Up face with single bolt. Ng, 1990.
Serafino 15
The off-width to chimney on the front of the buttress. McMahon, McHugh, 1972.
Mini Mayhem 25
Face climbing to a thin crack 3m right of Serafino. Parsons, Carrigan, 1982.
Zoot 20
Boulder problem start to gain access to the finger crack. Thomas, McMahon, Ling, 1980.
Speransky 17
The crack on the right hand side of the buttress.
Access- see map. Basically down hill from Trackside. Beware of the fervid abseilers
Blue No More 15m 22
On the left hand end off the cliff 6m from Pelvic Thrust is a flaring corner. Up this to thin seam which widens to a hand crack. McMahon, Smith, 1981.
Pelvic Thrust 18m 21
Thin crack to piton and small roof and then out left to final crack. Fantini, McMahon, 1981.
Free Passage 18m 22
Start 4m right of Pelvic Thrust and climb the face/crack to a ledge. Step left to the hand/finger crack. Fantini, Smith, 1981.
Offal 18m 19
The blood spilling off-width. McHugh, McMahon, 1972.
Offal Diagonal 18m 22
Start up Offal and then at the ledge go out the right diagonal crack. Parsons, 1982.
Blockbuster Traverse 25m 23
Start from the ledge on Blue No More across Pelvic Thrust and Free Passage then finishing up Offal Diagonal. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1985.
Knacker 16m 13
The chimney around the corner formed by the back of the Pelvic Thrust block. McMahon (solo), 1972.
Morte D’Arthur 15m 15
The next chimney. McMahon, Madden, Smith, 1981.
Saved 14m 23
Thin face climbing with very little gear. Next to the descent track 5m uphill from Morte D’Arthur. Narkowicz, Focken, 1985.
Below Offal Buttress there is a series of small faces with potential for some new (but "diminutive") routes.
Access- see map. Just upstream and downhill from Trackside. Easy to get to by abseiling from the eye-bolts.
Long ago and best forgotten 8m 20
The thin crack on the left. McMahon, solo, 1976.
Looking for the Heart 10m 17
Flaring groove and crack. Parsons, Best, 1976.
Waiting for Bobo 10m 23
And we still are. 3 eye-bolts. Fisher, Selby, 1996.
Pool Shooting Shimmy Sheister 9m 19
Finger crack on the right. Thomas, 1980.
Access- scramble downhill and upstream from Shimmy Sheister buttress or go uphill and downstream from the top of the Mick Loves Anne face. All roads lead to Rome.
Rising Gorge 13m 24
Line of 4 eye-bolts. Fisher, 1996.
Nighthawks 10m 18
Jamming up hand and fist crack on the front of the buttress. Thomas, McMahon, 1980
Access- Just downhill and slightly upstream from Nighthawks is a separate face
Trench-Foot 10m 17
Lay away up thin crack to gain hand crack. Parsons, Schmidt, 1976.
The face to the right of Trench-Foot has been top-roped at somewhere between 17 and 19 depending what hold has most recently broken off.
A Man’s Drink 8m 15
The crack behind the tree on the pillar 10m downhill from Trench-Foot. Smith (solo), 1981.
A man’s second drink 8m 17
5m around the corner from A Man’s Drink is a line of thin flakes leading up to a hand crack. Smith, 1981.
Access- From half-way down the descent track on Offal buttress walk upstream for 50m to a small clump of sheoaks. Abseil from these to the base of the cliff, approximately 12m, which is recognisable by the painted pierced heart. Alternatively scramble upstream 50m from the base of Offal. Bolt belay on top.
The Rain in Spain 8m 16
The left hand-crack 3m from Choking the Chicken. Parsons, Shields, 1975.
Choking the Chicken 10m 22
Or 24 for the vertically challenged. The arete with 3 eye-bolts. Fisher, Fox, 1995.
Pickpocket 10m 20
Corner and thin crack 2m right of Choking The Chicken. Ellenburger, K.Smith, 1975. Fantini, Smith, McMahon, 1981.
Small Change 10m 17
Up crack, bulges and blocks. Smith, McMahon, 1981.
Crab Spread 10m 20
Up face to eye-bolt and rusty old piton then to crack above. Fife, Narkowicz, 1982.
Fruit of the Spirit 12m 22
The crack 3m left of Dead Zone up to a hollow block then an eye-bolt and face above. Narkowicz, 1982.
Dead Zone 12m 20
Thin crack starting from sloping ledge. Fantini, Smith,1981.
Access- see map. Abseil in, bolt belay on top.
Change My Tune 10m 15
The main hand crack on the left. McMahon, Thomas, 1980.
Stopping on the Red 10m 16
2m right of Change My Tune. Ellenburger, K.Smith, 1975.
The face to the right of Stopping On The Red is a nice top rope problem at about 18.
Cue Ball Head 10m 14
The broken crack line 4m upstream of Stopping On The Red. McMahon, Thomas,1980.
The face right of Cue Ball Head is another top rope route at about 17.
Burgundy Sky 8m 10
The next corner. McMahon, Thomas, 1980.
Fly By Night 8m 17
The last climb before the off-width corner. Up corner to block at the top. Harder than it looks. Thomas, Keenan, McMahon, 1981.
Access- Walk 30m up the ramp from Deadzone on the Mickey Loves Anne face. It’s most use is for finding the access to Riverside Buttress
Foam 10m 14
The crack. McMahon (solo), 1980.
Access- Abseil in from the trees 10m below the Foam Pinnacle or scramble down the upstream side of Foam Pinnacle, best done at low tide.
Innocent Bystander 10m 23
Thin crack up to steel spike. Smart, McMahon, 1982.
Bad Mouth 10m 16
The off-width on the arete. McMahon, Smart, 1982.
Fugitive 10m 19
Corner 5m upstream from Bad Mouth. McMahon, Smart, 1982.
Access- From Foam Pinnacle walk upstream and uphill for 40m or alternatively drop down from the upstream end of Saturday Night Buttress. The climbs on Pygmy Possum Buttress are almost 30m long and are some of the longest climbs in the Gorge.
Thylacine 27m 16
left hand off-width to hand crack then on to the face of the top pillar. McMahon, Mohler, 1981.
Pygmy Possum 25m 18
An awkward start up thin crack and corner before easing to hand jams. Continue up crack above. McHugh, McMahon, 1972.
Schmidt Variant 25m 16
Starts up Thylacine and then traverses on to Pygmy Possum after the off-width. Schmidt?
French Ethics 10m 18
Scramble up the gully on the right of the Pygmy Possum buttress to where it is possible to climb the arete/pillar with 3 eye-bolts and some natural gear (oh no) to a DBB. Fox, Bissett, French, 1997.
Access- Directly above Pygmy Possum buttress on the uphill side of the track to Saturday Night Buttress.
On the Way 8m 15
Pleasant climbing up the crack behind the tree. McMahon (solo), 1980.
Right of Pygmy Possum buttress and on the same level. Abseil in from above.
# Oil Slick 12m 22
Climb the arete 1m left of Game Of Chance with one carrot. Ng, McOwan, 1990.
Game of Chance 12m 19
Start in cleft on the left up to overlap and crack above. McMahon, Mohler, 1981.
Aqua-Slick 10m 17
The middle crack with a hard start. McMahon, Smith, 1980.
Down to the Canvas 10m 18
The right hand face and crack. McMahon, Smith, 1980.
McDonalds is good! 10m 21
Line of 3 bolts left of DOTC. Access best from left end of bottom of Feltham buttress. Bissett, 1998.
Access- see map. One of the most popular buttresses in the Gorge because of it’s easy access and great variety of climbs.
Deal an Ace 10m 17
The first crack on the downstream end of the buttress. Parsons, 1976.
The Night Dweller 12m 21
Face climbing up the left-hand line of 2 carrots. Ng, 1989.
Out of Date Route 14m 19
The face left of Westham with 2 carrots. Starts 2m left of Westham. A variant start on the block another 2m left goes at 17. Parsons (solo), 1982.
Westham 14m 14
The classic corner/crack system. McMahon, Brooks High School, 1972 (Must have been crowed - Ed).
Third rising 12m 24
The orange face with 2 bolts and then exiting up the finger crack on the right. Ng, 1990.
Fenian 12m 22
Climb the arete right of Orang-Utan using the same bolts and finish as for that climb, but somehow avoiding Lingham all the way. Ng, 1989.
Lingham 14m 18
Classic hand jamming. McHugh, Schmidt, 1972.
Venom 14m 24
Wide arete 2m right of Lingham. This time avoiding going into either Lingham or Feltham! McMahon, 1988.
Feltham 14m 16
Up right trending ramp to block then back left to hand crack. McMahon, Schmidt, 1972.
Smart Pig 12m 14
Just 4m around the corner from F.McMahon, Mason, 1973.
Pork Hunt 12m 15
Starts 2m right of Smart Pig up broken corner and off-width. McMahon, Mason, 1973.
Cunningham 10m 15
3m right of Pork Hunt go up crack through small roof. McMahon, Brooks High School, 1972.
The next 3 routes are on the upstream face of the buttress
Rasher 8m 19
The thin crack past the rusty old piton. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1981.
Dog Poisoner 8m 13
Take the left hand crack. I.Thomas, McMahon, 1981.
Jelly boy 12m 18
Climb face to single U-bolt, then up to flake and on to top. First bolt can be easily clipped from right before starting to avoid awkward fall. Kearnes, Fox, Decesare, 1998.
Hamurabi 8m 16
The right hand crack which needs a clean. McMahon, I.Thomas, 1981.
Across the gully from Hamurabi is a small buttress with one climb.
Solitary 8m 16
Thin corner with crack widening at the top. McMahon, I.Thomas, 1981.
Access- The pinnacle at the base of Feltham. Abseil in from Feltham or scramble down on the downstream side.
Brazen Serpent 10m 25
A must for all! Arete with 3 eye-bolts to a DBB. Ng, 1989.
Porker 10m 16
Up behind block and then up left. McMahon, Smith, 1973.
Cutlet 10m 8
Behind block and up right. McMahon, Mason, 1973.
Access- Abseil from Porker Pinnacle to the water line.
Ezra 10m 18
Starts at the bulge and then up to finger crack. McMahon, Mohler, 1982.
Raze 10m 13
From hanging belay climb face and crack via steel bracket. Mohler, McMahon, 1982.
Raze Variant 10m 18
Avoid the steel bracket by going right. McMahon, 1982.
Access- See Map. Bolt belays.
The Wrong Man 10m 18
The first hand crack of the downstream end of the buttress. Smith, Ling, McMahon, 1980.
Up the Wall 10m 24
The face 1m right of the Wrong Man, up to an eye-bolt and then the thin crack. Originally graded 23 until the climb "fell apart". Parsons, 1982.
# Flake 9m 25
Thin face with 2 eye-bolts then exit up crack on left. Fisher, 1996.
Touch and Go 9m 22
First finger crack on the next face. Fantini, Smith, Cameron, 1981.
Cold Chat 9m 20
The next crack starting as a finger crack then opening up to a hand crack. Fantini, Smith, 1981.
Left Hand Man 10m 19
Starts up corner with thin crack to ledge and then easier crack. I.Thomas, McMahon, 1980.
The Right Man 11m 19
The right line, the last of the 4 cracks. I.Thomas, McMahon, Warren, 1980.
Ng man 12m 24
Arete with 2 bolts and small wires. Ng, 1988.
In-between Man 10m 21
Corner/thin crack. Parsons, 1982.
Hot Gossip 10m 19
Corner/finger crack 2m right of In-between Man. Smith, Fantini, 1982.
Godfather 11m 23
Arete with 2 bolts. Ng, 1990.
Last Year’s Man 11m 16
Up awkward corner to the large hand crack. Smith, Fantini, 1981.
Access- Go down from the upstream end of Right Man Buttress and abseil in, or scramble across from Porker Pinnacle.
Getting Dark, Too Dark to See 8m 20
The finger crack on the left hand end of the buttress which opens to a small corner and hand jamming. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
By the Light of Karabiners 9m 19
Corner and crack 3m right of Getting Dark... Narkowicz, McMahon, Nougher, 1982.
Straight Arm 10m 15
The hand crack near the arete. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Dog Leg 10m 15
Same start as Straight Arm then move right at 1/3 height to the next crack. McMahon, Smith, 1981.
Diagonal 11m 18
Go up the overhanging flake to right diagonal crack and along it to the twin cracks. Smith, McMahon, 1981.
Rhubarb 10m 14
The main corner and crack. Parsons, Woodruff, 1977.
Nowt’ Breakfast 9m 23
Up thin crack 3m right of Rhubarb. Narkowicz, Maddock, 1982.
The Groove 9m 18
Left slanting off-width. McMahon, Smith, 1981.
Access- Upstream and downhill from Right Man. The first 3 "climbs" are barely 5m long however the rest can aspire to be grown up climbs.
Devil’s Food 15
A very short finger to hand crack - almost "diminutive". McMahon, Smith, 1980.
Skylight 16
Off-width with a dog-leg at 1/3 height. McMahon, 1980.
Veiled Flesh 17
Finger crack 4m upstream of Skylight. Smith, McMahon, 1980.
The Stain 14
Short corner but long compared to the previous 3. McMahon, others, 1980.
Scottish fire 7m 24
Step right from ledge onto arete and fixed hanger then head up. Originally done direct but a crucial hold has broken off and still waits for an ascent this way. Ng, McOwen 1990.
Lady Midnight 10m 17
10m right of Fingal Fling. Up short corner and flake to move left to hand crack. Parsons, Woodruff, 1977.
Access - abseil from the tree below Lady Midnight.
Consultation 10m 22
Thin face and crack climbing on face 3m left of Joan Of Arc. Parsons, 1982.
Joan of Arc 10m 21
The crack you just abseiled past. Climb thin crack to gain left hand edge of cave then move back left to hand crack. Thomas, Smith, McMahon, 1980.
Arc of Joan 10m 23
Climb the face right of Joan of Arc to the cave and then up finger crack. McOwan, Wells, 1989.
Once Again 10m 18
Traverse to the second corner upstream of Arc of Joan, preferably when the tide is out, then climb the hand crack. Smith, McMahon, 1980.
Italian Club 10m 17
Abseil from 10m upstream of Lady Midnight to the water for a hanging belay. Climb the crack. Mohler, McMahon, 1982.
Italian Way 10m 17
About 10m upstream of Italian Club. Climb up and left to the overhang and then up crack. McMahon, Mohler, 1982.
Whore of Babylon 10m 17
Best approached from the upstream side or even The Gully. Start at the water level go up the slab to the small roof and jam crack. McMahon, Thomas, 1980.
Access- see map
Uncle Miggy 10m 16
Climb the off-width behind the pillar of Thin Friend on the downstream side. McHugh, McMahon, 1972.
Thin Fiend 10m 20
Line of 4 bolts up the isolated downstream pinnacle. Ng, 1991.
To the Elbow 10m 16
The off-width on the upstream side of Thin Friend. McMahon, Smith, 1981.
Fatman 10m 10
The chimney behind the isolated Fatman pinnacle 5m upstream from the Thin Friend pinnacle. McMahon, McHugh, 1972.
Crucifix 10m 19
Up the face of the Fatman pinnacle past 3 bolts and friend placements in the horizontal breaks. Ng, 1991.
Thin Man 10m 13
On the opposite side of Skinny Girl climb the easy face. McMahon, McHugh, 1972.
Prow 10m 18
Hard start then up on the left of the line of bolts. Smart and McMahon.
The bolts are the result of an Ng project which was to go on the right.
Skinny Girl 10m 18
Up through bulge and hand crack to the split between the pillar and the buttress proper. Smith, McMahon.
Acoustics and Meat 8m 18
The off-width through the small roof 10m uphill and right of Skinny Girl. Narkowicz, McMahon.
Getting on with the Neighbours 8m 13
The corner 3m up hill from Acoustics & Meat. Mohler, Madden, 1981.
Pot Belly 8m 15
Off-width climbing saved by chock-stones. Smith, McMahon, 1981.
Not Out 10m 16
The thin corner 3m right of Pot Belly. McMahon, Madden, 1981.
When the Fat Lady Sings 10m 25
The arete/pillar with 3 eye-bolts. DBB. Fox, Munro, Kearnes, 1996.
The Oil 10m 7
The chimney at the back of When the Fat Lady Sings. Madden, Mohler, 1981.
Purveyor of Flesh 9m 14
Second last corner of the buttress 10m uphill from When the Fat Lady Sings. McMahon, Smith, 1981.
Price of Meat 9m 15
The last corner. McMahon, Smith, 1981.
# Start Running 7m 23
The 2 carrots 3m left of You’re Fat! Starting at the same level step left on to arete. Originally conceived with a direct independent start but still waiting. Ng, 1991.
You’re Fat! 7m 18
Climb the face with 2 bolts on the end of the buttress. DeCesare, Fox, 1996.
Access by abseiling from the tree below Skinny Girl.
Gerry’s River Traverse 20
Starts somewhere down river of Fatman Buttress and goes for about 100m. "The landing is soft and rarely more than 1m away" to quote someone. Narkowicz (solo), 1982.
Fear and Frothing 12m 21
The thin cracks past an eye-bolt to the steel spike then traverse left to the arete and another eye-bolt. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Cantilever Corner 12m 18
Corner and face 3m right of Fear and Frothing. McMahon, Smart, 1982.
Montefeltro 10m 19
Flaring crack 4m upstream of Cantilever Corner. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Urbino 10m 17
Uphill and upstream of the last climb is a separate pillar split by a crack. McMahon, Fantini, 1980.
This buttress is upstream and on the same level as the top of the Fatman Buttress, directly above the big gully.
Third Knuckle 9m 17
Hand crack on the left. McMahon, Smith, 1981.
Sapient Sutler 9m 16
Left hand line on the right hand side of the buttress. Parsons et al, 1976.
Polyphiloprogenitive 9m 16
Corner right of Sapient Sutler to join it at the off-width. Smith, McMahon, 1981.
Access- requires a 30m abseil from the double bolt belay, next to small tree below the Wonders of the Flesh Buttress.
Lutzen 25m 21
Start on the downstream side of the gully. 1) Climb up the thin line to the black face, then continue to a grassy ledge. 2) Climb up the obvious left crack. Fantini, McMahon, 1981.
Noodle armed Choir boy 12m 18
On face that faces upstream. Best accessed by abseiling to large ledge from DBB on LPF,Y! Climb face corner past two U-bolts, then natural gear. Bissett, 1998.
Lesbo Pussy Feast?, Yehah!! 12m 24/25
The line 4m right of NACB. Climb past two U-bolts (double ropes may be better, but clips are good) into corner, place a cam and go up. Bissett, 1998
Eyalu 27m 18
The main crack. Can be split at the grassy ledge. McMahon, Duhig, 1980.
The Gully Route 27m 11
What other description do you need? Talbot, K.Smith, 1975.
Bautlen 20m 19
On the upstream side of the gully. Up blank corner past piton, through small roof and up crack. McMahon, Ling, 1982.
Access- upstream from the gully. Abseil in from 2 bolts above Almost Mars.
Chardonnay Man 10m 20
The arete left of Mars Wall proper. 3 bolts to a DBB. Bissett, Fox, 1997
Almost Mars 12m 22
Thin crack and face climbing 1m left of Mars deviating right at the top. Apparently a direct finish has been done at 24. Smart, McMahon, 1982.
Mars 12m 18
The crack. Thomas, Smith, McMahon 1981.
Serenity Now!! 16m 21
In the gully right of Mars Wall is a line of 6 U-bolts. This is it. DBB. Bissett, 1998.
Access- above and to the right of Mars Wall is a gully, on the left is a very small buttress with the following routes. It can also be accessed from Gabriel.
Fuseli 8m 23
The blank corner to the crack and then exit left originally used a piton runner. McMahon, Ling, 1982.
Incubus 9m 16
Up crack to groove. Ling, McMahon, 1982.
Sucubus 9m 16
Hand crack. McMahon, Ling, 1982.
Access- either by hopping across the rocks when (the tide is out) opposite the table and chairs on the Shady Side, or follow the map. The first 3 routes are on the left uphill section of the cliff. Bolt belays on top of main cliff.
Bolingbroke 20m 22
Body Extraction 20m 22
A better version of the above climb. Instead of escaping at break/roof, keep going up past a U-bolt, then some gear and ledges to more bolts. Fox, Bissett, 1997.
Wad 10m 19
The corner/crack right of Bolingbroke. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Tree root 10m 13
From top of Wad go up slabs to corner and right to groove. McHugh, McMahon, 1972.
The next routes are on the bottom tier of the Gabriel buttress facing directly onto the river.
Bonking in Kombis 10m 23
Arete and shallow corner on the downstream end. 2 eye-bolts and small cams. DBB. Fox, Munro, Povey, 1995.
These next climbs finish at a DBB at the ledge.
Gabriel 12m 17
Twin crack/corner on the bottom left of the Gabriel Buttress.
Third Uncle 12m 25
Arete with 2 fixed hangers. Ng, 1989.
Don’t Look at the Mantelpiece When You Poke the Fire 12m 19
Face and crack system right of Third Uncle. Deka, Ling, McMahon, Smith, 1980.
The next two climbs go from the ledge above Don’t Look at the ....
Cashel 12m 15
Climb up 3m and traverse upstream 10m from the DBB and then climb the off-width crack with a loose chockstone which faces downstream. McMahon, Talbot, 1975.
Lost in Space 14m 21
10m upstream from the DBB and 3m right of Cashel is a small roof. Climb up this to a thin crack/corner system leading to an overlap and finger crack beyond. Parsons, Deka, 1981.
The following routes are back on the river level.
Spike Route 12m 12
Climb up past the obvious spike. McMahon, Burnett, Mallinson, 1973.
Lay Down 12m 13
The crack 3m right of the Spike Route. McMahon, Burnett, 1973.
Ornithologist 25m 15
Crack behind tree then up the next tier to the chimney/off-width crack. Hamilton, Smith, 1981.
Mistake Flake 8m 16
Flake 3m above the ground. Smith, Cameron, Deka, Hamilton, 1981.
Loose Money, Juice Money 15m 17
Up main crack in the centre of the buttress to the top. Smith, McMahon, Cover, 1980. It is possible to traverse left at the start of the off-width into another crack at about 18
The next climbs start on the second tier on the right hand side of the buttress
Son of Man 12m 20
Up left trending flake to arete, sparse protection but excellent climbing. Narkowicz, Kearnes, Ng, 1985
Hand in glove 10m 21
Climb the large pillar 4m right of Son of Man, one carrot only and a cosmetic wire. Ng, 1990.
Cowardice 13m 16
Yellow corner on the right of the buttress. Classic climbing. Smith, Cover, 1980.
Access- up right of the main face of Gabriel Buttress
Cacodaemon 10m 19
Elegant climbing up clean corner and thin finger crack. McMahon, 1973.
Mendelt’s Route 10m 16
Off-width corner 5m right of Cacodaemon. Mendelt, Tillema, 1974.
Prince Hamlet 10m 23
Thin crack 1m right of Mendelt’s Route. Originally done with a piton. McMahon, Smith, 1982.
Cutting Corner 9m 16
The next corner right. McMahon, 1980.
Duke of York 9m 14
Up the twin cracks. McMahon, McHugh, 1972.
Expiation 9m 21
Up crack to flake clearing vegetation and dirt as you go. McMahon, Martin, Mohler, 1982.
About half way down to Gabriel from the top (or halfway to the zig-zag track from the bottom) is a Pinnacle with a few bolted lines on it. This is it. DBB on top.
Hot for teacher 10m 14
On the down stream side of the pinnacle is an easy line to the top. Its really only worthwhile as a means to get to the top if you want to top-rope the other lines. Bissett, French, 1997
The delightful giggle of schoolgirls 10m 22
On the downhill face of the pinnacle. Follow the bolts. Bissett, 1997.
Schoolgirl’s secret pleasure spot 10m 26
The upstream line of bolts. Very hard on-sight! Fox, 1997.
Uphill and slightly right of the above routes is a slabby looking piece of rock. This is six-pack slab and the following two climbs are there.
Max Factor 10m 21
The left line of bolts, past a hard start. Fox, Nicholls, 1997.
Six-Pack 10m 21
"’cos it ain’t no fuckin’ slab", said the delusional first ascenist. The right line of bolts. Nichols, Fox, 1997.
Tithog Pinnacle
Access- About 100m upstream from Gabriel Buttress, almost where you cross the river when the tide is halfway in.
Tithog 16
The hand crack on the left hand side. McMahon, Mohler, 1982.
Access- 100m upstream from Tithog Pinnacle or opposite the Prince of Darkness.
Ling’s Slant 18
Start around the corner and then into slant. Ling, Lamb, McMahon, 1982.
Access- Directly opposite the Tea Rooms look-out are two small cliffs, about 20m apart. Easiest to get to by walking around the rocks from the concrete bridge/spillway. Tea Room No 1 is the most downstream of the 2 buttress’
Boys On the Monkey Bars 12m 24
Climb arete on separate pillar with 3 eye-bolts. DBB. Fox, Munro, DeCesare, 1995.
Masturbation 9m 23
It’s not only wankers that do it. 2 eye-bolts around the corner from Boys On the Monkey Bars. Hard to avoid the block behind and awkward clips. Fox, Munro, 1996.
and on Tea Room No 2 is ...
Yellow Corner 9m 19
With a name like that who needs a description? The crack to a shallow yellow corner. Thomas, Fantini, 1980.
Passing the Time 10m 17
Off-width corner 3m right of Yellow Corner. Surprisingly good fun. McMahon, Ogbourne, 1982.
Peacock Walk 9m 15
Up horizontal-breaks and blocks 5m right Passing the Time. A variant start 2m further right is also quite good. McMahon, 1978.
Extreme Unction 9m 17
Around bulge to crack. McMahon, Martin, Mohler, 1982.
Robertson’s Off-Width 9m 17
Guess what? Robertson, 1978.
The popular walk up on the north side of the gorge hosts a few good climbs for those hot sunny days that abound in Launceston. All climbs along this path are listed from downstream up (NB this is right to left and is opposite to all other cliffs in this guide, Ed.). The distances are measured in leisurely steps from the toll booth (no you don’t have to pay any more). If you are taller or shorter or in a hurry then adjust accordingly.
# I am the King of Kings 10m 23
When concerns were raised about the poor bolting quality (carrots) on this climb the first ascentionist saw fit to chop them but not replace them with something better. If you really want a solo route (or if an altruistic individual retro-bolts it) the route starts on an edge via laybacks left of a small roof and arete. Narkowicz 1999.
The magical Mousey Tour 9m 25
175 steps past the toll booth are two bolted lines either side of an arete. Starts in the corner, under the roof. Up to clip the first bolt, then out left onto the face and up. DBB. Learmont, 1999.
Fighting the Authority 7m 19
The bolted line on the left of the arete. DBB Selby, 1999.
Ivy Crack 10m 23
191 steps (if you’re 5’10" with a size 43 shoe) from the toll booth is a thin crack full of ivy moss and spiders. People have been threatening to clean it out for years. You could be the one.
25 steps past Ivy Crack are three aretes right against the walk-way. All have 2 eye-bolts and DBB.
No Dams 9m 26
The first arete. Initially done with a dyno for the tree. You probably won’t have this option now as it made a distinctive breaking sound when Sam grabbed it during a recent attempt. Chris Shepherd, 1985.
Prohibitionist 7m 23
The middle arete. Fisher, 1996.
Revival Arete /Telecum /The New Move 9m 20
Call it what you will just do it! Narkowicz (solo), back in the Jurassic era.
Sanctity 10m 24
A natural pro sports route? This route is yet to see an ascent placing gear on lead. Otherwise it’s something of a hassle since you have to rap down to pre-place gear. If you can be bothered it’s above the track 50m or so before the shelter, which is just up-stream of Gold 101, up hill is a thin line coming down to meet a horizontal break. Climb this. Narcowizc, 1999.
110 steps past this is a little hut with fake cement tree uprights. This is opposite Lady Midnight (left) and Fatman (right) buttresses on the Sunny Side.
Gold 101 10m 21
55 steps past the hut is a small buttress 10m above the track. This has a single climb on it going up the thin crack facing the water. Narcowicz, 1983.
50 steps past the last climb is a ramp that leads up to 12m buttress with 2 climbs on it. The first one is on the face looking downstream.
Road to the Lost City 10m 22
Originally called pipeline, but known by the above name for many years. Climb the left hand crack/corner then traverse fight onto the black face with 3 bolts. Ng and Vincent 1992. A direct start has been done at the same grade (for tall people) but doesn’t add anything to the climb.
No Right Turn 9m 24
Visible from the walk-way it is the left hand crack on the upstream face 4m left of the very thin twin cracks (which are waiting a first ascent). Parsons, Carrigan, 1982.
Access - either from the top of Road to the Lost City go 50m uphill and downstream or walk up the gully on the upstream side of Road to the Lost City and then go downstream and slightly uphill. Short climbs but worth a visit if you’re in the area.
Only the Wheel 9m 23
3 bolts up the right hand arete. Ng, Vincent, 1992.
Iliocostalsis 9m 20
The crack 2m upstream of the arete. Narcowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Rose in the Dust 9m 17
The off-width looking crack. Narcowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Across the gully on the upstream side of the Road to the Lost City buttress is another small buttress
Macu Picu 10m 22
The arete with 2 eye-bolts and wires. DBB. Fox, Tierney, 1996.
Another 100 steps on from the Road to the Lost City buttress is a large landing with a picnic table and seats. This is the Double Dozen buttress. On the other side of the river is Gabriel buttress. When the tide is out you can cross over from here.
Future world, 10m 26
The line of bolts up the arete right of It’s in the Veins. NO BOLT BELAY, so take some gear, or a drill. Selby, 1998.
It’s in the Veins 10m 26
The bolted face right of Booga. Same belay situation as NW. Learmont, 1997.
No Right Turn 10m 24
Up the thin double cracks on the right above the obvious graffiti. Parsons, 1981.
Double Dozen 11m 22
Boulder problem start to the steep crack then exit out right of the block at the top. Moorehead, 1981.
Garbo 11m 17
The left hand crack and corner. McMahon, Ian Green, 1973.
150 steps past the Double Dozen area there are 2 huge pines on the right. 10m behind these is the next climb.
2 eye-bolts to finger crack. Stick clip the first eye-bolt. DBB. Fox, Tierney, 1996.
140 steps past Anopheles there are some stairs leading up to a look-out. If you turn and look back up the hill you will see a tall buttress with 2 cracks on it.
The One That Got Away 8m 22
A short finger crack, not visible from the walkway, on the right of the buttress opening up at the top. McMahon, 198?.
Disgorge 15m 23
The long crack on the right of the main face. Lamb, Narkowicz, 1982.
Dam It 15m 25
Thin face climbing with the left-hand crack for protection. Chris Shepherd, 1985.
The next 3 climbs are back on the tourist walkway.
Prince of Darkness 15m 21
15 steps past the stairs to the lookout is a light pole. Abseil from the sloping ledge beneath this to the platform 15m below. The climb ascends the cracks and blocks back up to the walkway. McMahon, 198?.
The next 2 climbs are on the right 70 steps past POD. DBB on top.
The trap 10m 22
Step off the rails and on to the black face with 3 bolts. Ng, 1991.
The shonky looking bolts left of this climb are not a climb, they have been placed by the council to monitor rock movement. They should NOT be clipped for climbing purposes.
Nymphogranuloma 10m 17
The jamb crack to the left with a block in the crack at the top. Narcowicz, 1982.
Access: See access map
Allodynia 12m 22
From the wooden bridge climb down to the first eye-bolt. Climb up the past the second eye-bolt to the horizontal break and the up to the thin crack above. Fox, Kearnes, 1996.
Aldente 12m 17
Step off the bridge onto the large hand crack and corner 2m right of Allodynia or if you really must go all the way to bottom to start.
Finger Frolic 10m 23
Line of four left trending eye-bolts. Johnson, Sam, 1996.
Across the river (cross on wier) and down stream about 50m are two more climbs.
Root and Kill 17m 23
Look for a flaring crag that blanks out after about five meters, spot the bolt above this and your there. The crack to the bolt, then right to gear, back left to another bolt then up past bulge to DBB. Bissett, Tierney, 1997.
Max the killer Kelpie 17m 18
Just right of R&K is a borken looking face. Climb this to a slot, then over the bulge to same DBB. Tierney, Bissett, 1997.
Headbanger Buttress
Follow the duck reach track past the above mentioned climb for 10 min. or so, until a large pool in the river is met and power lines cross overhead. On the opposite bank, at the top of the hill, just upstream of this pool is headbanger buttress. It’s the one with the large looking orange/black wall. The climbs are left of this wall. The descriptions start at the left of the buttress, you’ll know if your in the right spot because there is a rock cairn below the first mentioned climb. It’s a bit of a bash up the hill, but looks to be worthwhile.
Devil’s Grip the Iron Fist 18
The broken hand crack above the cairn on the left of the butress. Narcowicz, 1985.
The mob rules 21
The thin looking corner/crack 1m right of DGTIF. Narcowicz, 1985.
Die Young 22
The corner right of TMR. Narcowicz, 1985.
Paranoid 20
The crack on the upstream facing wall right of DY. Climb this to the ledge, then follow your nose to the top. Narcowicz, 1985.
Impale me on the Horns of Death 20
The great looking twin cracks on the face around the arete and right of P. Up to the ledge, then again on to the top. Narcowicz, 1985.
Attack of the Mad Axeman 18
The crack right of the above climb. Climb this to the top of the boulder. It’s pretty short, but you can then climb into the climb described below. Narcowicz, 1985.
Kill with Power 20
The crack around the corner and up hill from AOTMA. Tierney, 1985.
Depressed Fracture 20
The next line uphill and right of KWP. Narcowicz, 1985.
The Black Face
This face is a few minutes upstream of Headbanger Buttress, on the duck reach track side of the river. Continue along the track until you reach the top of the switch backs and look towards duckreach from the "viewing platform". The cliff is below here somewhere. There are several climbs in the area, but I know of only one worth a mention.
The Gallows 22
Find the black face, then find the severely overhanging finger crack that splits this face. This is the gallows. Well worthwhile if you can find it. Narcowicz, 1985.
DUCK REACH
Drive from town to Corin Street and then walk down to the Power House Museum or walk for 20 minutes upstream from the First Basin to this fantastic area.
If you have a look at the map you’ll see that there are crags that are marked that are not described in this guide. It’s not because there aren’t any climbs on them. They could well be fantastic. It’s just that I don’t know anything about them. There are new routes just waiting there for socially acceptable names.
Access - The first buttress that you come to 50m up from the suspension bridge. Broken into 3 levels each about 10m high.
Scutch 10m 19
The thin crack on the bottom level on the right. McMahon, Johnson, 1995.
The next two climbs are on the middle level.
Sinistra 10m 21
On the downstream side is a small roof with a single eye-bolt beneath it. Up this to the crack above. McMahon, Johnson, 1995.
Up Your Cloaca 8m 14
The slightly off-width corner 5m right of Sinistra. Johnson, McMahon, 1995.
The third tier has another two climbs on it.
Arson 12m 17
The left hand crack and corner. Selby, McMahon, 1995.
Libido 12m 21
Two bolts up the right hand face to the thin crack. The huge block on the top at the left is loose so watch out! McMahon, Johnson, 1995.
Sex on a Stick 14m 19
The off-width/chimney 3m right of Libido. McMahon (solo), 198?.
Access - best reached by following the footpad found at the upstream end of the car park down and across gully.
Break On Through 10m 20
The arete with 2 eye-bolts. Johnson, McMahon, 1995.
Bouzareah 10m 18
The thin crack around the corner from Break On Through. Up to horizontal break and then up the left trending diagonal to join the previous climb. McMahon, Johnson, 1995.
Access - walk 100m up from the bridge to the first major buttress.
Powerhouse Arete 12m 24
The left hand arete with 4 or 5 eye-bolts. Fisher, Johnson, 1996.
The Joy of Specs 12m 23
3 eye-bolts to the crack. Fisher, Johnson, 1996.
Sitting bull 10m 17
The left hand crack. McMahon, Schmidt, 1973.
# Lycra Sensation 10m 18
The corner and wide crack.
# Gonad Atrophy 10m 17
Off-width crack. McMahon, Wells, 1989
The next two climbs start on the lower tier.
Short And Sweet 8m 22
Thin crack splitting the face with a rusty old piton buried deep in the crack at about 2/3 height.
# Blackberry Custard 20m 18
The crack on the right of Short and Sweet which makes a nice route by continuing up to the main wall and then traversing right 3m on the horizontal break to join the widening crack past the blackberry.
# The Ideal Genuine Climb 20m 22
Starting around the corner from these routes on a small platform go up the thin twin cracks to the slab and then up to the peapod. Up the crack system above this to 2 eye-bolts and then up to DBB. Parsons, 1980’s.
# 666 10m 15
Upstream 40m from the last buttress is a hand crack that goes up to the next tier.. The next climbs are on this tier.
# The Number of the Beast 12m 15
The obvious hand crack on the left.
Two Good Hooters 12m 23
About 7m Left Beezlbub are two climbs with a U-bolt in them. This is the left most. Up past bolts, then tricky mantle to gain flake. Head left around the flake on gear. DBB, Bissett, Tierney, 1997.
Don’t Step on the Bananas 12m 23
The climb right of TGH. You can stick clip the bolt, although the first ascensionist didn’t. Up to flake, then on to top. DBB. Tierney, Bisset, 1997.
# Beezelbub 12m 20
Thin crack and face climb 2m left of the off-width crack which runs the whole height of the cliff.
The next section of cliff is broken in to four distinct levels. There are many natural lines on this area a lot of which have been climbed, once. Feel free to repeat them but take your secateurs and shovel.
The next buttress upstream with well travelled and more continuous climbs. There is a DBB belay at the top of the next 3 climbs
No Parking 20m 20
Bridge up the chimney formed by this buttress and the bottom tier of the last one and then step right on to the large block. Climb the finger crack to the overlap and then continue up the hand crack above.
No Standing 20m 23
Various extensions have been added to this climb. As it now stands it starts beneath the eye-bolt and avoiding the large block on the left continues up past three carrots to the arete and thin crack. Best climb at the grade around. Ng and Vincent, 1990.
Free Parking 20m 17
Start the climb 20m right of No Standing climb to the terrace at one-quarter height and then take the left hand jam crack to the top.
Vamp 35m 17
Starts 20m up stream and around the corner from Free Parking. Climb the off hand width crack and corner to the tree. DBB. Then continue up the fist crack and then on to the pillar on top of the cliff.
The next 2 climbs finish at a DBB
Sign of the times 23m 23
5m right of Vamp is a black face with 3 carrot bolts. Danny Ng, 1989.
On the blunt arete just right of the Vixen is an unfinished climb with 2 carrots in it.
Orient Express 23m 24
The climb with 4 carrots (which are difficult to clip if you don’t have the right genetic predisposition) and a 2 or 2 1/2 friend. Danny Ng, 1989.
The next 2 climbs start by scrambling up 20m upstream of the last climb to the next tier beneath where a "cake slice" of rock has come away.
# Pavlova 20m 25
Climb the crack beneath the roof, yes there is a genuine roof in Launceston, and then take the left hand crack out past the piton to the thin crack and face above. Parsons, Narcowicz.
The crack going straight through the roof hasn’t yet been done yet to my knowledge though it could well have been climbed by a naked Tibetan monk while on an astral journey to Tasmania.
# Cake Slice 20m 20
Climb up where the slice of cake was. Smart, McMahon, 1979.
10m up stream from the last climbs is a large block behind which are two cracks. The best way off these is to traverse across to the DBB on Excalibur.
# Don’t Shoot the Messenger 15m 18
The left hand hand-crack. Fantini.
# Daily Messenger 15m 19
You guessed it, the right hand crack. Fantini.
The tiers above the last two climbs may have some worthwhile climbs but I haven’t done them.
Seize the day 25m 26
Start by climbing Long Knife and then where possible traverse out to the thin crack in the middle of the face. Climb up past 3 bolts with fixed hangers to the rap chains. Parsons, 1980’s.
Rumour has it that a direct start has been done at about grade 27 by Robin Barker.
Long Knife 25m 14
The surprisingly delightful and enjoyable chimney.
Crux and Beyond 18m 20
On the front of the block that forms the Long Knife chimney is an off-width. Lewis, Closs, 1973.
The next two climbs are 40m past the end of the major buttress and are very short even for the vertically challenged.
Free Will 6m 17
Hand crack to off-width. McMahon, Selby, 1996.
Out of Sight, Out of Mind 6m 21
Amen. The thin crack on the right. Selby, McMahon, 1996.
100m past the last climbs this small buttress is set back 50m from the river but worth the scramble up to it.
Possum Run 8m 10
The left most line, a worthwhile descent route.
Back in Black 8m 19
The thin crack line running up the face 5m right of Possum Run. McMahon, Selby, 1996.
Highway to Hell 8m 19
The thin crack around the corner from Back in Black. Narcowicz, Ling, Daka, Smith, McMahon.
TNT 6m 16
The dual crack system in the corner. Selby, Wardlow, Fox, Nichols, 1996.
The next buttress is another 100m upstream almost opposite Pubic Flash.
# Absolutely Fabulous 10m 18
Climb up on to ledge and then up crack and slightly overhanging corner. McMahon, Selby, 1996.
# Gorgeous Darling 10m 16
Nice hand jamming.
# La Croix Sweetie 10m 17
Delicate face climbing up a thin crack line. Quite excellent.
Proctologist 8m 19
Climb the crack in the corner 15m upstream from the last wall. Selby, 1996.
Last of the Knuckle Men 10m 21
5m on from the Proctologist is a thin crack climb this to a ledge and then up corner to exit out left under small roofs.
McMahon, Selby, 1996.
Between here and Ramona buttress is a lot of broken cliff line most of it pawed by Narkowicz, McMahon and the likes. A lot of the obvious natural lines have been done and some of them are probably worth repeating. Wait for the McMahon Guide to the cosmos to appear to be fully enlightened.
Access- The easiest way to get to Pubic Flash is to drive from the Old Kings bridge at the bottom of the Gorge up Trevallyn Rd./Gorge Rd. and follow the signs to Trevallyn State Reserve, turn left at the Duck Reach Rd. and go to the end and park at the Hoo Hoo Hut. You can go either way along the loop to Deadman’s Knob until you come to a rock cairn beside a log on the river side of the track(see map). Either way it is about 800m. Then walk towards the river for about 100m. This will bring you to the top of the cliff. It is also possible to get to the cliff from the Duck Reach power station but the walk up the hill is not recommended. There are some shorter easier climbs on the top section. However all the action starts on the lower cliff. This has some of the hardest climbs in northern Tassie so go and flail yourself. Just beware of the Peregrines around nesting time (Sep-Dec) and that the cliff is south facing so may need a bit of a wire brush after a winter of sloth.
Violation 17m 19
On the upstream side of the isolated pillar is a hand crack, climb this to the top. Maddison, McMahon, 1978.
# Porky Pig Procures Porcelain Profiteroles 15m 23
The thin crack starting behind a bush 20m upstream from The Road Runner Show. Narkowicz, 1985.
# The Road Runner Show 17m 25
2 bolts and 2 fixed hangers.
# Daffy Does Dallas 17m 27
4 bolts possibly badly placed so check it out before you attempt the flash.
# Fudge For Elmer Fudd 17m 21
5m upstream from Bugs Bunny for Breakfast is a corner and crack which looks like it will improve dramatically with a clean
# Buggs Bunny for Breakfast 17m 24
2m upstream from the off width chimney/corner is a line of 7 carrots.
Born Again 12m 24.
Start from the block but try not to use the pillar 1m away. The climbing becomes fully independent after 4m. Narkowicz, 1985.
Access - walk upstream for about 800m from the Duck Reach cliffs and on the same side. The buttress is visible from Duck Reach as the river bends around to the right.
Louis the King 10m 23
Fine crack and arete climbing on the small buttress facing the river 50m downstream from The Sting.
Mac The Finger 12m 22
Climb the thin twin cracks for 3m then slightly right before moving back left to the main hand crack.
Temporary Like Achilles 12m 18
10m upstream from Mac The Finger is a black corner with a crack on both sides. Climb either or both of these. McMahon, Ling, Smith, 1980.
Smith and Wesson Blues 12m 19
The left trending flake/undercling that leads to the straight crack above. Colyvan, Smith, 1981.
The Sting 25m 23
Across the gully/chimney from the previous climbs is a 25m pillar split by an off-width at the top. Climb from the base of this to the roof and out left to stand on the ledge and clip the fixed hanger. Up a thin crack past an eye-bolt to a horizontal break. Briefly up off-width before escaping out left in diagonal jamb crack. DBB. Danny Ng.
The Burning 25m 24
Start 5m upstream from The Sting in the corner. Go up and left past 4 carrots. Alternatively clip the first bolt of the Sting and go up and right. Probably a bit harder this way. DBB. Danny Ng.
Ramona 20m 17
Start in the same corner as The Burning but head straight up and then step right into the hand crack. DBB.
Access- see map. To get to the Hoo Hoo Hut drive from the Old Kings bridge at the bottom of the Gorge up Trevallyn Rd./Gorge Rd and follow the signs to Trevallyn State Reserve. Once in the reserve take a left on to Duck Reach Rd and follow it to the end. Walk from the Hoo Hoo Hut across the shallow gully and then along the gentle ridge on the other side before dropping down to the river (about 10 minutes all up if you find the right way).
The top tier is 70m back from the river and 50m down the river from the bottom tier. The bottom tier is at the end of the HEC water channel nestled against the willows.
Alternatively you can walk up from Duck Reach power station, past all the other crags not described here, which takes about 45 minutes. The first three climbs are on the bottom tier.
# Boys on Bikes 10m 25
The face/corner with 4 carrots Ng, 1986.
Dogs, Dust and Diesel 10m 24
The corner with 2 fixed pitons. Narcowicz, 1982.
# HEC Power 10m 23
Up to the roof and on to the arete past 4 carrots. Ng.
The remaining climbs are on the Upper Tier.
# Willow Delight 10m 19
The thin crack in the shallow corner.
Sticky Willow 10m 23
A bouldery start to gain access to the thin crack. McOwan, Wells, 1991.
# Jam in the Pockets 8m 18
The hand crack 2m left of Skeletons in the Closet.
# Skeletons in the Closet 8m 16
The corner
# Liken Lickin’ Lichen 8m 23
Start from the ledge 8m left of Those Mornings After Blues climb the blunt arete past 2 carrots.
# Those Morning After Blues 10m 18
The left hand crack from the same start as NT.
# Next Time 10m 20
Starts in the corner and then goes up the right crack.
# Sorry Jason 10m 19
The corner/crack with the chockstones.
The next two climbs start in the same corner and look too close to be independent but are actually quite separate.
# Buster Highmen 10m 18
Up thin crack for 3m before moving right to the hand crack.
Aclai del lei
This cliff is reached either by walking across the Trevallyn Dam wall and heading up the hill, or more easily: head towards the Launceston casino, take a right turn into blackstone road, follow this for a few km’s, turn right into panarama road and follow this to a T intersection (Bayview drive) and turn right. If you follow bayview drive to its end and look to the right the cliff can be seen. To park head back up Bayview for a few hundred meters to Columbus drive, turn left here and drive to the end. On the left is gate and a track that heads up the follow and your nose across and down the hill to the cliff. The climbing here is great, and the aspect makes it a good option in the colder months. To find your way around first find WASP Factory (the wall with 3 eye bolts and a DBB) and work from there).
#Don’t be Blinded by the Light 10m 18
The line left of SIMM
#Satan is My Motor 15m 21
About 5m L of PC. If you look up you can see a weird looking piton with a ring on the end of it. Start below this and head for the top, passingthe pin on the way.
#Piton Crazy 19m 22
The arete left of NM. Climb this passing a piton.
Northern Man 17m 22
The line left of WF.
Wasp Factory 15m 24
The face right of northern man, sporting 3 bolts and a DBB. Good, committing climbing. Tierney, 1997.
Margin Walker 13m 23
The line of bolts across the gully and right of WF, next to the arete. A mid-size cam may needed once you gain the flake. Bissett, Fox, Tierney 1997
#Intent to Outrage Modesty 13m 23
The right trending line of carrots that lead up from the same start as MW. Ng.
#Quality Crack 12m 20
This is the fun crack right of ITOM. Up the crack to the horizontal, move right, then continue up to a mantle finish. Both the climbing and the protection are good.