Edited by Sam Edwards & Roger Parkyn
(after previous work by Rob Williams)
The rock at Adamsfield makes for a complete change from climbing on dolerite; being short, pocketed and very steep. There is more steep rock here than any other developed climbing area in the state. It’s all bolt protected too, so you can leave your rack at home. The spectacular surroundings add to the charm of the place (although the area’s high rainfall does tend to make it a summer crag). The rock is conglomerate and a little loose at times, but after cleaning, some excellent routes emerge.
The Adamsfield cliffs are situated at Grid reference 715430 on the Wedge 1:100 000 map at the northern end of the Ragged Range, about 35 km past Maydena. Once you have driven past Maydena, continue into the National Park along the Gordon River road, driving past the Scotts peak dam turn off (Frodshams Pass). About 5 km on from here, the road will be heading downhill. After passing several minor offshoots, a sign indicates "Clear Hill Road", follow this.
Turn right down the road and drive for 16 km (from the Gordon Road) until a large boulder sticks out on the right, nearly overhanging the road (this is the climb Roadkill!). If you haven't been here before look out for this boulder as it is easy to miss and is the best way to locate the area. A top-rope problem also exists on this boulder and is about grade 17. Only 50 metres on from this it is possible to park on the left, opposite a slimy looking bank. Walk up this bank with a little difficulty, then head up to the right through bracken and bushes for about 100 metres to the large boulder. This boulder is known as The High Wire.
Also of note is the great swimming hole about 3 km past the High Wire. It lies about 50m downhill of the bridge.
People considering putting up new routes at this crag should respect its established ethics and tradition. Do not use either "natural" equipment or bolts that require key-hole hangers as nobody will be bringing them here.
Adamsfield has little to offer in the way of good easy routes, and as such could hardly be recomended as a good beginner crag. To get the most out of this place you will want to be climbing 23 and up, although there are probably enough easy routes for a couple of trips. The rock is really sharp here too and takes some getting used to. Adamsfield has also become the best bouldering area in Tassie. Problems are spread out everywhere so see a local for details.
There is a good flat camping area at the base of the hill about 2km past the car park.
Roadkill 10m 22
+ You can’t get easier access than this. The arete that overhangs the road. Sam Edwards, Dec 95.
The High Wire. The lower side of the High Wire, which is up to 17m high, overhangs at up to 45° like a colossal wave.
Project 30+
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¬ ¬ The Great Houdini 15m 24/25¬
¬ ¬ Magic Potion 15m 29¬
¬ ¬ Dragging the Chain 10m 23¬
Lithe & Svelty 15m 24¬
Materialisation of a Psychotics Dream 10m 22¬
¬ Bitter Twisted Soul 10m 23¬
¬ Elvira Maddigan 10m 18Mr Kite 10m 15
Climbs the slab 2 metres to the right of Elvira. Although this was a solo first ascent, anybody wishing to place a bolt or two to protect it is welcome (yeah right). Hamish Jackson, Feb 94.
Mrs Kite 10m 14
Very close to the right of Mr Kite is another solo climb of lesser quality. Hamish Jackson, Feb 94.
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Caught In Disaster 10m 24Rock With a View
Drill to Thrill 21
+ Climb the overhanging arete. Climb to the right of the bolts (I clipped some of the ones on Tight Rope too, Ed.). Garry Phillips, Apr 96.
Tight Rope Walker 23
+ Start 1m right of Drill past three bolts to finish as for Drill. Hardly an independent "line" as only about one body length of different climbing. Grant Rowbottom solo. Sep 96.
Lady of the Lake 20
+ Climbs through the initially steep ground past one bolt then to the top. Garry Phillips, Mar 94.
The Path-finder 20
+ This climb is to the right of Lady Of The Lake and also has a steep beginning (one bolt) followed by an easier, unprotected slab. Sam Edwards, Mar 94.
Jester 15
Start just to the left of the smaller boulder that rests against the Rock With A View. Climb up the face with natural protection . Jon Tiller, Mar 94.
Freak Show 8m 19
Left of Cool Chicks. Top-roped but not yet bolted. Jon Tiller, Phil Schwan, Oct 96.
Cool Chicks at Home 8m 16
On the opposite end of the boulder to Drill to Thrill is a vertical wall; start at its righthand end. Three bolts to chain. Jon Tiller, Phil Schwan, Oct 96.
Tweaky 5m 20
Pyramid Rockis the largest boulder at the top of the hill about 10 minutes directly uphill from The High Wire.. Follow track until hill flattens out and the following two climbs are reached. The other routes are on the other side of the boulder.
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¬ Steel and Stone 10m 20¬
¬ County Toad 10m 20¬¬
The Juggling Junkie 13m 22¬
¬ ¬ Soft 12m 21¬
¬ The Alcoholic Acrobat 12m 24¬
¬ ¬ Attack of the Deranged Mutant Killer Monster 12m 21The next few routes are on a boulder opposite Attack of the Deranged Mutant Killer Monster (about ten metres away) which has a large eucalypt in front of it.
She’s Lump 19
+ Takes the left hand side of the line of bolts (two brackets with U rap anchors) in front of the tree. Stick clip the first bolt. Evan Peacock, May 96.
Millions of Pieces 19
+ The right hand side of the She’s Lump bolts. Evan Peacock, May 96.
Doon Buggy 19
+ Starts on the right hand side of the wall and traverses leftwards to finish up She’s Lump/Millions. Steve Ford, May 96.
The Bear Pitis the 130º wall situated about 20m past Pyramid Rock (follow blue tapes).
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¬ ¬ Morjabia 12m 24/5¬
¬ ¬ The Mike Tyson vs Macaulay Culkin Fight 15m 25¬
¬ ¬ Get A Grip 10m 23/4¬
¬ ¬ Couldn’t Bear to Wait 9m 22Also of mention are linkups. Start Temper Tantrum to finish Morjabia. Start Morjabia to finish Temper Tantrum
Phatphuck Rock(named after a Thai desert) is a square looking boulder about 50m below Pyramid Rock. It has an orange and white overhanging lower face which can be seen when coming up the track (the route are on the opposite side of the boulder to this).
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¬ Life is a Chocolate Cake 8m 17Battle of the Bulge 4m 15
+ Lies on an arete on the uphill side of the boulder. Clip the bolt and pull over the bulge to the top. Phil Schwan, Sep 96.
The Trapezeoffers some of the best roof climbing in the state. To get to the boulder walk about two thirds of the way up the hill from the High Wire (as for the Pyramid) and then head left for about 200m.
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The Velocity Vampire 20m 26¬
¬ ¬ The Aerial Ballet 20m 25¬
¬ ¬ Forearm Flameout 20m 27¬
¬ ¬ Redback Fever 20m 26¬
¬ ¬ Circus Oz 20m 24¬
¬ The Clown 15m 20The Magic Mushroomis about 10 minutes walk from the Bear Pit. Follow vague track down through scruby slope then up left along ridgeline. Not very clearly marked.
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Poison in the Veins 18m 26Meltdown 15m 23
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Electric Snake 15m 23¬¬¬
Super Unknown 15m 26¬¬¬
Frequent Flyer 15m 27¬¬¬
High Voltage 15m 23¬¬¬
Snake Charmer 22m 24¬¬
Shaking the Snake 15m 22/23Project 15m
Sam Edwards on the first ascent of Magic Potion (29, Tassie's hardest route!) belayed by Grant Rowbottom. Photo: Roger Parkyn |
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More Magic Potion. |
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Roger on Dragging the Chain (24) belayed by John Fisher Photo: Rob Williams (?) |
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Sam working Forearm Flameout (27) Photo: Roger Parkyn |
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Garry Phillips trying Snake Charmer (24) Photo: Roger Parkyn |
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Roger on Soft (21/22) Photo: Derek Chinn |
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Roger on Circus Oz (24) Photo: Rob Williams (?) |
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