These are routes which have been done subsequent to the 1995 Climbers Guide to Freycinet Peninsula (published by TUCC & CCT).
Draft maps for comment (as at 9/7/2001). These have been prepared for the new Guide that Bisso is putting together (written or e-mailed feedback would be appreciated): Over-view; Hazards and Whitewater Wall Area.
A Note from Rob De Cesare
...
Weightlessness 40m 20
The top of the route is an appealing flake on the east facing wall about 20 m north of Sugar Crumb Arete (60). Very good rock. Abseil about 40 m to a large ledge with a couple of boulders on its left end. Belay from here. The crux is a deceptively difficult leftwards traverse to gain the main flake. Doug Fife & Pete Steane, August 1997.
Blinking Idiot 23 8m (Rubik's Cube, p15)
The crack line right of The Horror. Well protected by wires and a one and a half friend (near the top). FFA Roger Parkyn, Sam Edwards Mar 1996 (TR J Pinkard 1989?).
Chicken Surprise 12m 22
Captivating Passions 20m 25
Exquisite Tenderness 15m 28
Furless 15m 17
Dodgy Ringpulls 12m 18
Coastal Cliffs North of Little Bluestone Bay ("White Water Wall area"):
Crabby 10m 17
Wakked Wall
- this little wall is about half way between the Sentry Box and White Stack at sea levelDouble Rainbow Spinout 18 8m
I'm Stuck and I Can't Get Out 20m 19
Bloody Obvious 10m 18
Simple Minds 10m 20
Flying U 35m 16
Creeping Death 25m 21
(White Water Wall Area)The Lone Gunmen 20m 18
Powdered Toast Man 16 15m
Sam and Eloise's First Route 12 70m
Slithy Tove 24m 24 (Underworld, p70)
Freed. Roger Parkyn 1997.
Arocknophibia 160m 22 (Flowstone Wall, p90)
Easily one of the best routes at Coles Bay. Good protection, excellent climbing and excellent rock should make this route popular.
The first two pitches of this climb follow the huge right trending arc/overlap on the left of the Flowstone Wall. This is an obvious feature and visible from the top of Mt Parsons on the walk in.
Start at the base of this arc on its left side. The best way to access the climb is to abseil in from above. To do this walk to the top of the first peak of Mt Dove (as viewed from Sleepy Bay). This is directly above the climb and the next hill up from the gully leading down to the wall. From here walk down easy angled slabs to the rap station at the top of pitch 4. Once you’re at the base of the last abseil (hanger and ring anchors here) scramble left to the start of the climb. Don’t walk down the gully unless you’re feeling suicidal. It is also possible to access the climb from below by following the sea level traverse. As the climb doesn’t start at sea level a short, easy, access pitch will need to be done to get to the first pitch described here. This climb and others on the wall can be hard to find so bring this description with you.
Rack. 8 quickdraws, about 7 cams between #1 & #4 friend. Double ropes for abseiling. All belays except the first one are bolted.
1) 25m 22 (gear & 2 bolts). Follow the short overlap until it ends. Climb over it just left of the bolt (crux) and up to belay at the base of the main overlap.
2) 35m 20 (4 bolts & gear). A fantastic pitch. Undercling and jam the overlap until a belay is reached where an obvious dyke crosses it.
3) 45m 16 (6 bolts). Follow the dyke through the overlap. Then up easily to belay below a short steep wall.
4) 20m 19 (3 bolts). Follow the juggy intrusion up the wall then up easily to a large ledge (this is where you walk to if you access the route from above).
5) 30m 17 (6 bolts). An excellent final pitch up the featured headwall.
Sam Edwards, Rolan Eberhard, Alt Jan 96.
* Tic-Tac Toe 15m Grade 25
Trouble in Paradise has erroneously been labelled as "Blink" (page 74). I would suggest also that its desciption as a "boulder problem" is a little mis-leading. An ascent that neglected clipping any one of its three fixed anchors would risk a fall long enough to gaurantee serious.
Two short but worthwhile climbs on a small cliff (named "Piglets") above Sow Spur. Traverse east from the very top of Sow Spur above "Stylised" along to a little crag on the left, which looks about ten metres high from the base.
*Pigtail Soup 20m 18/19
Above Sow Spur. Twin cracks a few metres left of "This Little Piggy". Up right-hand crack before moving awkwardly left to a small sloping ledge next to left-hand crack. Follow this crack to the top. Alan Williams, Phil Robinson (1/8/99).
*This Little Piggy 20m 16
Left of an easy line in the middle of the cliff. Climb the wall and thin crack to belay 10m back from the edge above an easy slab hidden from the bottom. Positive holds and good pro. A neat little route, not as hard as it looks. Alan Williams, Phil Robinson (1/8/99).
Leap of Faith 20m 23
Action Replay 12m 24
Mt Mayson Crags
Antarctica 14 10m
Start 5m to the left of SI at the base of a buttress with a few semi-detached blocks. Follow the crack lines to the top. FA Sam Martin, John Anderson 10/6/2001
Seams Ideal 21 12m
About 10m to the left of the water streak is a thin seam up the middle of a buttress. Bouldery start with RPs for protection. Climb the seam for 3m then reach out right for holds and up to jug (and a nut placement) at 5m, then more easily to the top. The seam direct has been done on toprope and is a grade harder. FA John Anderson 10/6/2001.
Son of Scheming Saturn 18 20m
10m to the right of the water streak, past a broken corner and flake, is a shallow corner and crack below a bulge. Climb the face to the corner, then up to the bulge. Pull around on the left (crux) and then climb the juggy slab to the right of the crack to the top. Good value. FA Jon Nermut, John Anderson, Sam Martin 10/6/2001
Dos Gosanos 16 20m
Start 3m to the right of SSS. Follow the line of weakness on good holds to the base of an offwidth, then climb the slab to the right to the top. FA John Anderson, Jon Nermut 28/12/97
From the top of the lower crag head up and left to the base of the higher upper crag. There are a few more lines to be done here.
Rattus Splattus 17 35m
