Patching, repairing, or replacing window screens is almost a no-brainer. Home Depot classifies this project as Beginner Easy. They say it should take about an hour to do one screen. You know what, if it takes an hour, you've got a problem or a very, very big window.

Last spring, I replaced six window screens myself. The project was so easy, and inexpensive, I was tempted to run down the block, knocking on doors and asking my neighbors if I could do their window screens for them. Good sense got the better of me though. After all, something that went together that easy has to have a flaw. So I decided to see how they weathered in my windows.

Oh, what did it cost? Remember, I had one window screen done professionally at a cost of $35.00. And I am stickler for knowing the total cost of a project upfront, so before trying this as a do-it-myself, I priced everything. Tools and materials to create the other six screens for the remaining windows was only $25. Yep, $10 bucks less than the cost of one window done professionally.

One year later, the professionally done screen is sagging a little, not enough for me toy with this Spring, but I will have to redo it myself one day, probably next Spring. The ones I did myself are tight and pretty. In other words, you can do this.

Before we begin the instructions Home Depot offers. I thought I would define a couple of terms and go over a few ideas with you so that we are all on the same page.

Corner Brackets -- professionally made screens use a mitered corner into which a metal clip is inserted with a special tool. Mitering, itself, is often a little difficult. You can end up wasting a lot of frame material even with a mitre box. But, getting those clips and the tool to insert them is near impossible. Instead, your local hardware store, such as Home Depot, will offer you corner brackets. These are pre-made squares the exact width of the frame material with tab ends at right angles that insert into frame. It means you only have to cut a right angle at the proper length to get a perfect corner. Corner brackets come in either metal or vinyl. I preferred the vinyl ones as they expand slightly when put in place like a hollow wall anchor, and let's face, they were cheaper.

Frame Material, Framing -- the framing of a window screen is usually a rectangular tube with a groove or channel pressed into one face next to one edge to hold the screen edge and spline (see the drawing). It can be made of metal (usually steel), aluminium, or wood (in older homes). Steel holds its shape better, but is also more expensive and heavier and sometimes more susceptible to corrosion. Again, ask your retailer for what is best suited for your part of the country.

Screening Material -- there are a lot of choices out there including metal, aluminium, vinyl, bright, translucent, UV sunblocking, to name a few. Which one you choose will depend on your needs both in the pocket book and in function. For my windows, I chose a metal UV sunblocking which offers a darker colored coating to the outside. Some people find that darkness to be unattractive in look. However, it functions like a pair of polarized sunglasses, allowing me to see out while blocking some UV light entering my house. It also means my neighbors cannot see in as well. You should ask your retailer for information concerning the options he has available and what may be best suited for your area. Screening material comes in rolls with several standard widths and lengths. Know how much in square feet and running feet you will need before you make your purchase.

Spline -- this is a rubber or vinyl cording used to hold screen material in place. In smaller windows, it is usually ribbed and tubular and comes in two sizes depending on the channel of the framing. For patio and larger screens, it is often flat. You should check your spline on all your screens periodically for wear, damage, or loosening. Because the spline usually faces outward it is susceptible to sun damage which causes it to become brittle and crack. Too, it can become loose, offering tag ends to young hands who may find it interesting. One good pull can remove the screening from the frame altogether. Spline comes in pre-packaged lengths. Know how much running feet you are going to need before you make your purchase.

Splining Tool -- resembles a rotary or pizza cutter with a wheel on either end, neither are edged for cutting, however. One wheel is convex, that is: the center of the wheel edge protrudes and tapers to the sides or is bevelled outward. It is blunt rather than sharp. This wheel is used for forcing the screening material into the spline channel. The other wheel is concave, that is: the center of the wheel edge curves inward. This wheel is used to force the spline into the channel. The curve of the edge conforms to the curve of the spline, causing the wheel to ride the spline into place.

Tension Springs/Clips -- these are either strips of metal or small wire angles that are inserted on one vertical age of the frame. When the frame is in the window, the tension springs flatten or retract into the frame, providing just enough tension to hold the screen in place. While some windows have small retractable latches to hold screens in place, most newer windows do not and require something to hold screens in place from being blown inward. This item was not included in the Home Depot description below, but are available at Home Depot.

The first thing you need to decide is just what is salvagable and what needs to be replaced. If you don't need to replace the frames, you can simply re-screen. On the other hand, a bent or severely warped frame cannot be straightened properly ever again. Dings are an invitation to rust, rust causes warping and bending. And bending means there will be gaps around the frame allowing insects a way into your home. Check the frame carefully before making up your mind.

Too, if it is only a small hole, then patching may be all you require. However, if the spline has let go or requires replacement, then you should replace the screening also for two reasons. One, the screening material is cut to exact size after the spline is inserted. There is usually not enough edge to hold a new spline. And two, if the spline has deteriorated to the point of cracking and becoming brittle, chances are your screen material is equally corroded.

The instructions that follow are from the Home Depot website.

Metal frames for window screens feature corner brackets to hold the frame pieces together. Occasionally, a metal frame may oxidize and need to be replaced. New metal frames come in pieces that must be cut to fit the opening. A sharp hacksaw blade makes cutting easier and safer.

There are 4 steps in this project:

1. With a hacksaw, cut the framing pieces to length, leaving the ends square. Remember to subtract the length of the two corner brackets from the measurements.
2. To assemble the frame, push the corner brackets into the framing pieces. If sawing pinched the framing pieces closed, pry them open with an old screwdriver.
3. Cut the screen material 1/2 inch larger than the frame and trim the corners diagonally. Push the screening into the groove with the convex roller of a splining tool or a stiff-bladed putty knife.
4. With the concave roller of the splining tool, force the spline and screening into the groove. Use short, firm strokes. Cut off the excess spline and screen material.

Aluminum frames for screens are lightweight and easy to work with, but they bend easily. Take care not to bend the frame: Place it on a flat surface as you replace the screen.

There are 3 steps in this project:

1. Pry the vinyl spline from the grooves around the edge of the frame with a screwdriver. Retain the old spline, if it is still flexible, or replace it with new spline.
2. Stretch the new screen fabric tightly over the frame so that it overlaps the retaining grooves.
3. Use a spline roller to press the spline and screen into the grooves. Cut away the excess screen fabric with a utility knife.

You can fix minor holes and tears in window screening with glue, an awl, metal thread and pre-manufactured patches. A fiberglass screen can be fixed by sewing a patch over the hole. Typically, you won't have to remove the screen window unit to make this repair.

Repairing a metal screen with a patch means removing the screen window unit to do so.

There are 2 steps in this project:

1. Repair holes in plastic or fiberglass screens by sewing a screen patch over the hole. Pull "threads" from the patch material. Small holes can sometimes be closed with waterproof glue. Use it sparingly and wipe away any drips before the glue hardens.
2. For holes in metal mesh, pull cross threads from the patch's edges. Bend the wires and push them through the mesh around the hole and crimp the ends. Smaller holes can often be fixed by reshaping the mesh with a toothpick or a straightened paperclip.

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The Crafter's Place Newsletter is publication of The Yahoo! Crafter's Place Chat Club.
This edition was edited by AngelPie_Mouse. Copyright ©2000.

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