The Capitol Guards "galvanize" to represent Federal troops when needed at specific events. We recognize that there is a severe dearth of Federals in Arkansas and the surrounding area, and so we take our Federal impressions just as seriously as we do our Confederate standards.

We do not have a specific Federal unit impression, but seek to present ourselves as the average Federal soldier who served in the western and Trans-Mississippi theaters. For specific events, we will focus on a particular Federal unit that served in the campaign being represented. Past impressions have included companies of the 8th Wisconsin, the 36th Iowa, and the 3rd Minnesota volunteer regiments. We also work in close cooperation with our neigbors, Co. B, 37th Illinois Infantry in Little Rock to support one another at local and regional events.

Much of what has already been set out for the Confederate Authenticity guidelines still applies here. There are some unique differences however, in the outlook in developing a good Federal impression, and a number of distinct advantages in representing Billy Yank.

First, the vast majority of the items issued to and worn and carried by the Federal soldier were "G.I. issue," e.g., there was a single uniform standard and the logistic system of Uncle Sam stood behind it to see that the troops were well-equipped. There are thus far fewer degrees of freedom in choosing a particular uniform item or article of equipment, but the overall effect is that a quality Federal impression is much easier and much less expensive than a quality Confederate impression... once you have a quality jacket, trousers, shirt, hat, and shoes, these items will be authentic and usable for almost any scenarios, unlike the hodgepodge of Confederate fashion where nearly every region had a different style of clothing which itself changed several times during the War.

These standards are drawn heavily (and outright plagiarized) from the basic Federal impression guidelines written for the Preservation 2000 event by Rob Hodge. We deeply appreciate the work and research that Rob has put into this!

Drill manual
The best impression in the world will go to waste if you do not know the first thing about drill. From worst farb to the most neurotic hardcore, we all hate to see bad drill. You can have the most authentic jacket in the world and look like a Civil War Soldier, but if you can not act like a soldier it is useless. (Most purely Federal units that we fall in with will be using the manual of tactics prescribed by Silas Casey.)

Headgear
1. Dress Hat: Federal-issue dress ("Hardee") or dark-colored civilian slouch hats are preferred, but issue forage caps are acceptable. NO unblocked ("hillbilly") hats allowed. All hats should have: a cotton or polished cotton lining; a painted cloth, leather, or pigskin sweatband that is hand sewn into the hat; no pins, badges, numbers, letters, or other decoration; a cotton or silk ribbon around the crown brim; brims rolled up and not down. Hats should have no pins, badges, feathers, animal bones, etc.

2. Forage Caps: Issue forage caps are the next best choice if you don't have a "Hardee" hat. The brim should be flat, not creased or rolled like a baseball cap. Forage caps (or "bummers") are made from medium weight broadcloth. Enameled chinstrap and visor. The early pattern has a small crown and rounded visor. The later pattern has a larger crown with a more square visor. On both models there is a welt around the crown. Lined with brown or black polished cotton. Sweatbands are sewn by hand. With the sole exception of a company letter, there should be no brass worn on the cap. No hunting horns, masonic symbols, harps, animal parts, naked women, or any other adornment.

2. Kepis: As with other privately purchased, commercial items, kepis should come from credible sources and should be made from proper materials.

JACKETS
1. Dark Blue Fatigue Uniform Coat - This should be your first choice for a jacket. This is the 4-button fatigue, or "sack" coat -- Dark blue wool flannel with a diagonal weave. Correct pattern with short collars and faced lapels and cuffs. Four evenly spaced US eagle buttons should fit into hand-worked buttonholes. Sleeves should have small scalloped vent in the rear of the cuff. Unlined versions must have all seams flat-felled. Lined versions should have a one-piece body lining of wool or wool/cotton weave and a sleeve lining of muslin. Two to Four piece body. Two piece sleeve. Lining should be brown, gray, green, tan or blue wool or jeans. The originals were only supposed to be issued in four sizes (1 =36, 2=38, 3=40, 4=42.); although sizes 44, 46, and 48 could be obtained on special requisition through the quartermaster system.

Lined sacks were issued 3 (3,685,755) for every 1 (1,809,207) unlined, so the odds are 3 to 1 that your coat should be lined as well. If made from a Schuylkill pattern then it should be completely hand sewn. If from the Cincinnati Depot or New York Contact a mix of machine sewn and hand stitching is acceptable

AVOID what are known as the "purple fuzzy Barney coats." Sadly, this encompasses nearly every Federal sack coat commonly offered on Sutler's Row. The wool in these are way too heavy in comparison to that used in original and correct reproduction coats, and these can actually put you at a greatly increased risk for a heat injury. The key indicators for these monstrosities is the thick wool with a heavy nap, and the broad, lay-down "Peter Pan" style collars.

2. Federal Regulation Dress Coat -- This is listed as a second choice, but because there are very few makers of authentic frock coats on the market as well as the high cost of a good coat, it may be best to stick to the simple sack coat.. This item has always been in scarce supply and high demand. An authentic coat will cost you approximately $450. Pattern, cloth and construction of this item are all time consuming and thus expensive endeavors. Use extreme care when selecting these coats, as many are made incorrectly, and material and workmanship are too crude. WEAR A SACK COAT INSTEAD. Frock coats have a nine button front. Two button functional cuff. Brown or black polished cotton interior. White cotton lining for sleeves. Two small pockets in the skirt. Trimmed with worsted WOOL cord or WOOL welt. Issued with raw, unhemmed skirt bottoms. They come in the same sizes as the sack coats.

3. Commercial jackets -- Commercially made or private purchase items should be represented in limited numbers. We are trying to represent the common soldier -- not the anomaly. But if you do not have an authentic option in regards to an issue sack coat or jacket, an authentically reproduced private purchase item will do.

Trousers
Must be made of Sky-blue kersey with a diagonal weave. The major features of these trousers are a thin tapering waist band; narrow, three to five button fly; yoke in back; raised back; side pockets that start below the waist-band; right-side watch pocket; facing cuffs. All Federal issue trousers should have a properly vented cuff.

The trousers can be machine or hand stitched, but the majority of the detail work to be done by hand - definitely the buttonholes.

Schuylkill Arsenal, Cincinnati Depot or a New York contractor like Deering or JT Martin should be the patterns of choice.. Federal trousers were issued in four sizes only: 1: waist 32 x inseam31, 2: waist 34 x inseam 32, 3: waist 36 x inseam 33, 1: waist 38 x inseam 34.

Issue Shirts
Every Federal living historian should have a regulation issue shirt. To have a complete Federal impression a regulation shirt must complete the uniform. The government specifications for this shirt are very particular about the weight of the wool, size [the shirt only came in one size]. Made of undyed, tan, or grey domet flannel, "rather coarse and scratchy."

Private purchase shirts
Please only wear a civilian shirt if absolutely necessary! As stated above, Federal issue shirts should be your first choice. If you must wear a private purchase shirt however, this is one area of your impression that you have a bit of latitude. Either a fall down collar was worn or a banded collar with or without a detachable collar. One, two or no pockets. Period patterns called for the skirts to be longer than modern shirts. Small shell, glass, mother of pearl, bone or small wood buttons can be used. No shirts made from modern calico fabrics. No wooden buttons.You should be able to document your shirt style, and fabric used should reflect the period.

Shoes:

No modern shoes or work boots. Federal-issue bootees are strongly recommended.

Socks:

Either 100% cotton or 100% wool socks of a period construction.

Drawers:

Civilian or military patterns made or canton flannel, osnaburg, or linen. Drawer should have a button fly, a twill tape adjustment bow at back of waistband, and twill tape drawstrings or button closure at ankles.

Overcoats
The issue overcoat is made of the same heavy, sky-blue kersey material as the trousers. Single breasted. Five button front. Six button cape. Standing collar. Lined with heavy cotton, jean or wool. Single button adjustable strap in the back. Unfinished bottom. Sleeves should also be lined. The overcoat was made and issued in the same sizes as sack coat.

Federal Waist Belts
According to regulations they should be 2" wide and 42" from buckle to keeper. 1854 pattern calls for a keeper, although many original belts are cut short of the keeper. No state buckles, wear a U.S. belt plate only.

Accoutrements:

U.S. manufacture cartridge box appropriate to the caliber of weapon carried (Patterns of 1839 (.69 cal.) 1857 (.58 cal.), and 1861 (.69 and .58 cal.). Outer texture should be smooth and stitching should be straight, tight, and evenly spaced. Leather should be black. Cartridge boxes should either be .58 or .69 caliber and have: belt and sling loops, inner flap, tool pocket with flap, tins, and a brass, lead, or wood finial. Cap boxes and bayonet scabbards should be of similar construction methods and materials. Bayonet scabbard should have only two rivets if event timeframe is before 1864.

Canteen

The M1858 (smoothsided) canteen is the preferred style to be carried by the rank and file. The use of patent filter canteens or Confederate canteens is strongly discouraged. Do not purchase the oversized canteen commonly seen in sutler's stores, and avoid the stainless steel canteens. Up until the Winter of 1863, 6' russet leather straps were being issued to the army, then switched to cloth because of the lack of durability found in the leather straps. Although black leather straps are found in originals, the black straps were issued pre & and post war. Corrugated (Bullseye) patterns are acceptable. Corrugated canteens were not issued with chains, but rather with a piece of twine used to secure the cork. Pewter spout. Brown or gray jean cloth, or some sort of blanket material should be used for covering. No covering is preferred to a sky blue cover.

Knapsacks
If you do not own a good M1855 doublebag knapsack then you should try and get one. This is a standard item in a Federal kit. If you cannot get one, then go with a bedroll. A linen bag is correct, as is cotton canvas. Beware of the oversized packs many sutlers sell. Original double bags are relatively small, with the main bag being closed with four flaps and two buckles and the other "envelope-type" bag being closed with two rawhide ties. Study the specifications. Proper buckles and hook are mandatory. Straps should be short and made with medium weight leather. Make sure the finish work is sewn by hand even when the major seams are machine done. Straps should be BLACK. Both bags are painted black with correct-type paint, based in boiled linseed oil.

Haversacks
Although many haversacks were issued to Federal troops without paint, the majority of the haversacks in the ranks should be painted. This is the only acceptable haversack. Machine sewn with flat-felled seams, painted black with oil-based paint (seeps through cloth slightly.) Most reproduction haversacks are too large, so check for correct dimensions. A cotton or linen inner bag with two or three hand-worked button holes may be included, buttoned to the inside of the haversack to keep foods separate. Haversack should have buckle closure. Strap and buckle should be black. No stainless steel buckles!

Blankets:

U.S. issue blanket in either tan or gray, with dark end stripes. NO modern (green) Army surplus blankets or sleeping bags.

Ground Cloth:

U.S. issue gum blanket and/or poncho. Brass grommets should be no larger than 9/16" and spaced no further than 15" apart.