OWNER'S GUIDE - CAL 21

Welcome into the fast-growing owner's group of Jensen Fiberglass Yachts! Your Cal-21 has been carefully engineered and built to require a minimum of maintenance and a maximum of sailing and trailing pleasure.
To insure this, the following is a description of the operational checks and tasks normally dealt with by the owner to maintain his Cal-21.

Let's become acquainted with these various operations by preparing your Cal-21 for a day's sail and discussing the maintenance routine you should follow. Since your Cal-21 has been designed as a trailerable, sea-going sailboat, we will start our "Sailing Check-off List" at your home and proceed from there to the launching ramp.


I. TRAILER HOOK-UP

Before hooking-up the factory approved trailer to your car, make sure "All" the necessary gear is stowed properly INSIDE your Cal-21 so it won't rattle and bang around. It can be very embarrassing to arrive at your destination only to discover the sails were left in the garage! With all the gear stowed, please check the following

A. TRAILER HITCH WEIGHT - 8% to 10% of the total weight

This weight is quite critical. Too much or too little weight on the hitch will make for dangerous steering or will cause the trailer to sway and not follow properly. You should be just able to lift the hitch onto the trailer ball. To be safe, check the weight with your bathroom scales. Minor adjustment to the fore and aft trim of the boat on the trailer may be made by moving the bow support, but once the proper balance is obtained, keep the same stowage pattern. DO NOT LOAD your Cal-21 with anything but BOAT GEAR!

B. Keel should ride with it's full weight on the trailer. Do not tow trailer with keel bulb hanging from winch cable.

C. Close the main hatch and secure the mast on its fore and aft supports. The masthead should extend about 44" beyond the transom. Check the local trailing laws as some states require a red flag and/or clearance lights for this amount of overhang.

1. All rigging secured?

2. Cotter Key in aft mast support?

3. Keel Cable Wire slack?

4. Bow snug in bow pad with winch gear lock pawl in place?

5. Bolt-Handle for trailer tilting device tight and horizontal?

6. Aft tie-down secured?

D. Hook-up the trailer to your car, connect the safety chain and lights and test the lights.

E. Factory installed trailer tires (7.35 x 14) carry 32 pounds of air.

F. O.K. Off to the Launching Ramp but watch the Speed Limit. You're towing a trailer, so the legal maximum towing speed is probably less than maximum highway speeds. Check your own state's trailer operation regulations to be sure.


II. RIGGING FOR LAUNCHING

Prior to to going down the launching ramp, park on a level spot to rig your Cal-21 for sailing. Be sure there are NO overhead wires between you and the launching ramp. When the mast is stepped, the impaired vertical clearance is about 33 feet.

A. STEPPING THE MAST - easy with two persons.

1. Remove the mast from its supports, walk it aft and rest on the aft support. Place foot of mast in the step so that the pins drop down to the bottom of the slots.

2. Check that all halyards run free and fair and are cleated.

3. Normally, the backstay, uppers and lowers will be connected to their chain plates. There is no real reason to unhook them while trailing.

CAUTION: BE SURE THE TURNBUCKLES ARE LYING AFT OF THE CHAINPLATES AND THE CONNECTING TOGGLES ARE VERTICAL TO
THE CHAIN PLATES.

a. You may want to tape the Toggles together to insure that they will always be vertical

4. Pushing up Mast

a. One person in cockpit walks forward while pushing up the mast.

b. One person on foredeck pulls on the jibstay.

c. Watch carefully for fouled rigging.

1) If jibstay will not reach forward hole of stemhead fitting, check to see that the backstay turnbuckle is not fouled.

d. Connect jibstay and tighten turnbuckle to same tension as backstay.


B. RIGGING THE BOOM

1. Slip Gooseneck Fitting into mast groove.

2. Attach Topping Lift from Backstay to short stainless strap on
aft end.

3. Rig Mainsheet: Starting at the Becket Block to Boom Block to
Quarter Block back to Boom Block and tie to Becket on Becket
Block.

a. Tie figure-eight knot in the bitter end.

4. Attach Optional Boom Vang

C. PRE-LAUNCHING CHECKS

1. See that the Keel Winch is in place with cable hooked into slot in keel bulb.

2. Winch up keel so it is flush wit the bottom of the boat to allow clearance of the trailer.

3. Remove aft mast support and aft tiedown.

4. Remove Demountable Trailer Light Bar.

5. Sails could be bent on now but is better practice to do this in the water at a head-to-wind dock or mooring.

6. Attach Bow Line.

III. LAUNCHING PROCEDURE

A. Back trailer down ramp until trailer wheels touch the water.

B. Turn OFF car engine, place shift level in Low or PARK and set the EMERGENCY BRAKE.

C. Have one person on board and another, on the ramp, to hold the bow line.

D. Loosen and remove the Bolt-Handle that retains the tilting device of the trailer.

E. Take a strain on the Trailer Winch Handle, release the Winch Gear Lock Pawl and crank out slack in the Bow Cable.

1. If the ramp is steep enough, your Cal-21 should start to slide and the trailer automatically tilt up. If not, apply a bit of muscle power and your Cal-21 will be water-borne!

F. Unstrap the Bow Cable, and crank in the slack. Level the trailer and re-insert the Tilting Device Bolt-Handle.

G. Move your Cal-21 to a dock or mooring that will allow you to tie up with the bow facing into the wind, and with at least 4'6" of water depth.

H. Don't forget to remove the car and trailer to the parking lot.


IV DOCKSIDE SAILING PREPARATIONS

A. LOWERING THE KEEL

1. Position yourself so as to have positive control of the winch handle BEFORE releasing the inch pawl lock.

FAILURE TO MAINTAIN CONTROL OF THE WINCH CAN LEAD TO SEVERE DAMAGE TO THE BOAT AND POSSIBLE INJURY TO THE OPERATOR.

2. Take a strain on the Keel Winch Handle, release the Winch Gear Pawl Lock and crank the Keel down SLOWLY.

3. Go below and place the Keel Lock Pin through the hole in the keel Boa which is directly under the mast support. You might have to move the keel slightly with the winch to make the holes line up properly.

4. Crank out all the cable on the keel Winch and hoisting cable should drop free from the keel. If not, a gentle push with the Keel Pole will do the job!

5. Crank up the hoisting cable and stow the Keel Winch below.

B. FITTING THE KEEL PLUG - CAUTION: DO NOT DO WHILE UNDERWAY.

1. Insert wooden plug with narrow end FORWARD and hinged part AFT and UP.

2. Push the plug through the keel well into the water until the entire unit is under the hull and the forward end is alongside the keel. Now pull the plug back and line up under the trunk. Let the forward end float up into the well and then push forward until it strikes the aft end of the keel.

3. Swing UP hinged part to allow bolt in aft end of Keel Well to pass thru the hole. Tighten the wing nut.

C. ATTACHING THE COCKPIT SOLE KEEL WELL COVER

1. Hook AFT shock cord of KEEL WELL PLUG to cover.

2. Tie a figure-eight knot in the forward shock cord that will be just above the cockpit sole when stretched.

3. This knot will hold the forward end of the cover in place when above the slot

D. RUDDER

1. Attach to transom and don't forget the Cotter Key in the top pintle.

2. Tiller usually remains attached to the rudder. Be sure bolt and nut are tight and Peened.

3. While working here on the transom, if you have the optional Outboard Motor Bracket, check to be sure it is secure.

E. BENDING ON SAIL

1. JIB

a. Fasten TACK to middle hole in stemhead.

b. Hank Jib on to Jibstay.

c. Attach Jib Halyard to Head of Sail.

d. Splice or tie in sheets to CLEW. These can be left permanently attached to the jib.

e. Lead sheets "outboard" of the stays then through the fairleads on the tracks on the cockpit coamings and tie figure-eight knots in the bitter ends.

2. MAIN SAIL

a. Staring at the mast, slide the foot of the sail into the boom groove.

b. Secure tack in gooseneck with clevis pin.

c. Slide head into mast groove and attach Main Halyard.

d. Insert battens, thin end first.

e. Rig outhaul line: Tie to forward hole on boom end, run through clew, back through aft hole, back to clew and around Boom.

1) Outhaul sail enough to remove wrinkles.

2) Tie tight around Boom.

With the sails bent on and sheets rove, we are now ready to get underway. We should pause for a moment to look about and thus become acquainted with the rest of your Cal-21 and consider additional maintenance items. Much of this is visual but it IS IMPORTANT! The results will be a more pleasant sail and prolonged future enjoyment of your yacht.

V. SPARS, RIGGING AND HARDWARE

Our masts are built to withstand any normal usage but improper tuning or handling can cause problems. Therefore, we do not warrant the mast of your Cal-21 under our currant warrant program. Rigging, as well as tuning, becomes all important when setting up the mast because of the light weight section we use. A knowledgeable person should oversee the rigging and tuning so as to eliminate the possibility of an eccentric load which might occur with an improperly loaded shroud. Special attention should be given to the initial stretch of the uppers and a further gradual stretch of the wire over the first few hard outings.

A. MAST TUNE

The mast should be set straight athwart-hips in the boat and have a slight rake aft. Straight mast can beat be obtained by turnbuckle adjustment while sailing to windward in a 5 to 10 mph breeze. The head of the mast should not "hook" to windward. If not straight, it would be more desirable to have the head "fall-off" slightly to leeward. This should give the mast a smooth, ever curve from head to deck. Sighting along the back of the mast on each tack, from deck level, will give a comparison and indicate the necessary adjustments.

For normal cruising conditions, we recommend a "loose" rig. The Jumper wires are first adjusted while the mast is still down. Both wires should be of equal tension and just tight enough to slightly curve the mast at the Jumper intersection. Now with the mast up, a good dock-side starting point would be to have the jibstay. backstay and uppers just firm with the lowers fairly loose. Now the backstay may be slightly tighter to "hook" the top of the mast aft. One should be able to stand facing the mast, reach out and pull on ant stay and see the mast move in that direction. Try to get tension on both stays equal with about 1/2" to 2" of play on the uppers and 2" to 3" of play on the lowers.

When racing, the jib stay and backstay may be tightened up for better windward performance. At the conclusion of the race it is best to "slack-off" the amount you "took-up" on these two turnbuckles. This avoids setting up unnecessary strains on the hull and rig. Under NO circumstances should any of the rigging be set up "bar-tight".

A description of all standing and running rigging. if replacement is necessary, can be found in Part XI.

Following are some maintenance tips which should be of value.

B. SPARS

The finish of natural aluminum is protected against corrosion by a thin, transparent film of aluminum oxide. Dust, dirt, smoke, salt and traffic fumes will adhere to this film, making the surface dull and unsightly. Coating the new surface with a good paste wax like Vista or Simonize, will help protect the aluminum oxide from foreign matter.

If the surface has become tarnished, any high grade cleaner - wax - polish will restore the original sheen. Heavier pitting cam be removed by wet-sanding with #600 paper prior to polishing and waxing. You need not worry about sanding, cleaning or polishing destroying the aluminum oxide film as it reforms or "heals" immediately.

If spars are black anodized, hose down portions subject to salt water spray after each sail.

C. RIGGING

Clean rigging means clean sails. A quick wipe with a damp cloth before stepping the mast takes care of this problem. While doing this, check the entire rig for loose screws, nuts, bolts, cotter pins and chafe which mat have resulted from hard sailing. Spreader tips well taped? Periodic inspection of the rig is your best insurance against rigging and spar failure. Keeping halyards tied away from the mast stops the annoying dockside clanking and saves the mast finish.

Salt water will gradually stiffen Dacron line. Hosing with fresh water or soaking in warm soapy water will make the line soft and flexible again. Keep coiled and stowed in a dry spot below.

D. HARDWARE

Many materials are used, all of which clean well with fresh water and a chamois. Winches must be kept clean and well oiled (Lubriplate is excellent unless the manufacturer recommends otherwise). This also applies to all turnbuckels, track slides, sheaves and shackles.

The chrome and stainless steel brighten up with the chamois while a good automotive chrome cleaner or mild kitchen abrasive like Comet takes care of the tarnished spots. Keep all gear lubricated and in good working condition. Remember, the less an item is used, a turnbuckle, for example, the more apt it is to freeze-up.

VI. SAILS

The sails are small enough to be folded, bagged and stowed below. Always remove the battens. If the sails are wet, dry by hoisting or stow below spread out to dry. The Dacron and nylon sails can get wet and become caked with salt. When they do, hose them off with fresh water and dry thoroughly by hoisting them at the dock on a still, warm day.

Take care of your sails with periodic checks, especially spinnakers, for small tears and chafe. Hoisting and lowering sails, except spinnakers, while head-to-wind is good practice and easier on the sails.

VII. FIBERGLASS SURFACES

Periodic application of Tide and fresh, warm water with deck brush and sponge followed by a good hosing and chamois will do the cleaning job. If gloss dulls or fades, wax the smooth surfaces with Vista or Meguiar's Mirror Glaze paste wax. Surfaces that have started to oxidize can be brought back with Meguiar's Fiberglas Boat Cleaner or DuPont White #7 Polishing Compound. Wax the hull with a power buffer and paste wax once a year. The non-skid surfaces can be brought back to life with a lather of Tide or Mr. Clean. Be sure to follow up with lots of fresh water to avoid streaks on the topsides.

Avoid any metal filings on the fiberglass surfaces as they will leave rust spots. These spots can be removed with oxalic acid or Teak Brite but first test a small area against bleaching out the surface color.

Consult the enclosed booklet for touch-up work and repair of minor scars or breaks.

VIII. WOOD SURFACES

The Tiller, Rudder, Keel Winch Mount, Cockpit sole Keel Well Cover and Main Companionway Drop Board have been well covered with high grade marine varnish at the factory. In order to maintain the original high luster and protect the wood, sanding and re-varnishing will be necessary when the gloss fades or bare spots appear.

The Main Companionway Hatch trim is teak which is weather resistant due to its natural oils. Teak does fade to a dull gray, which if objectionable can be scrubbed clean with "Teak Brite". Teak's natural color and texture can be preserved by application of Weldwood's "Woodlife" or similar sealers. Teak, when well varnished, produces the ultimate in yacht wood finish but requires Constant Loving Care!

All below deck mahogany surfaces are finished with a satin varnish. Treat all the materials used below deck as a home interior. Air is a wonderful cleaner. Bring the vacuum cleaner aboard and always keep the boat well ventilated, especially under the cabin cushions and lockers.

IX. FACTORY APPROVED EXTRAS

A. TRAILER

1. Please understand that NO warranty is allowed on your CAL-21 if it has been towed on a trailer that is not factory approved.

2. Maximum load for the factory trailer is 1350 pounds. A CAL-21 weighs 1100 pounds empty which gives a 250 pound or an 18% safety factor. It is very easy to exceed this safety factor by loading too much gear in the boat.

3. Tires are 7.35 x 14 which are designed to carry 32 pounds of air pressure.

4. Present hubs and bearing on the trailer are lubricated, sealed and protected by the new oil bath "C-LUBE". Be sure and keep the transparent hub filled to the Blue Fill Plug Hole with 90 weight oil.

B. MARINE HEAD - SELF CONTAINED

Operating instructions for this "Corlan-Type" marine head have been included. Additional information may be obtained by writing the manufacturer.

C. RUNNING LIGHT PACKAGE

The lights have been wired for connection to the customer's optional battery which can be a 12 volt DC wet cell of automotive type or a 12 volt DC dry cell type that is used in a high-powered flashlight.

Jensen Marine's interest in both customer and product continues long after you have commissioned your CAL-21. Within the limits of our specifications, the company's Parts Department is ready to serve your nearest dealer quickly and efficiently. All replacement parts or accessories are delivered through your dealer. He must have detailed information from you to be certain we send the parts requested.

To help you become even more familiar with the actual sailing of your CAL-21, we have included a copy of "The Wide World of Sailing". Additional sailing and maintenance tips can be found in various boating publications. Yachting's Annual Maintenance Issue is an excellent starting point.

X. HAUL-OUT PROCEDURE

This brings us to the end of our "Sailing Check List" and leaves only the securing of your CAL-21. If we ran the list in reverse, adding only three items, your CAL-21 would be ready for the next sail.

A. RETRACTING THE KEEL

1. In order to attach the Keel Lifting Cable, the keel MUST be clear of the bottom.

2. Remove the Keel Well Cover and Keel Plug.

3. Place the Keel Winch in its cockpit position and run out all the cable.

4. Insert the loop of the cable into the two notches on the forked end of the Keel Pole.

5. Keep tension on the cable as the pole is pushed down with the forks horizontal.

6. The loop of the cable must go under the keel and up into the keel slot. BE CERTAIN THAT YOU FEEL IT HOOK INTO THE SLOT. If you are in doubt, repeat the above operation.

7. When the keel is hooked, take tension on the cable and remove the pole. Now take up all the slack with the winch.

WARNING: SEVERE DAMAGE TO HULL MAY RESULT FROM FAILURE TO PROPERLY ENGAGE LIFTING CABLE IN SLOT OF THE KEEL BULB.

8. Go below and remove the keel lock pin. If the pin binds adjust the keel with the winch until the pin can be easily removed.

9. Now crank up the Keel with the Keel Winch.

B. RECOVERY PROCEDURE

1. With the trailer backed down the ramp and the wheels just touching the water, release the Tilting Device and tilt up the trailer bed.

2. Turn OF car engine, place shift lever in LOW or PARK and set the EMERGENCY BRAKE.

3. Bring your CAL-21 bow first into the trailer as far as possible and hook up the Trailer Winch Cable.

4. Steady cranking will pull your CAL-21 forward, tilting the trailer bed down and bring the bow into the Bow Pad.

a. During this operation, it is very important to keep the boat centered in the trailer.

5. Set the Winch Gear Lock Pawl, tie the boat down aft and drive back to the level rigging spot!

6. When the boat is secured on the trailer, lower the keel onto the trailer bed. Remove and store the winch and winch cable below.

C. The final item, after your CAL-21 is back on the trailer, is a GOOD HOSING. Nothing keeps a boat better than fresh water and a chamois. Use plenty of pressure, especially in the cockpit, non-skid areas and metal surfaces. Turn to with sponge and chamois and you will be rewarded with a sharp, sparkling yacht that is only matched by its comparable performance.

Good Luck and Happy Sailing

JENSEN MARINE

That's all of It!

On a personal note. There is mention at least twice of the "severe damage" that can occur when the keel falls if not properly hooked to the lifting cable or if you lose control of it when lowering or lifting the keel. This very thing happened to mine when the previous owner was launching one spring. Contrary to the design of this "trailerable" boat, he had no trailer and had the boat lifted on slings into the water each year. When the boat was on the slings and up in the air, the keel fell from fully retracted to PAST fully down. This resulted in a large hole being blown in the top of the keel slot just in front of the compression post under the counter. It as nasty to say the least. So BEWARE any new CAL-21 owners. (And old owners too!)