Replacing the wood part of a failed tiller is a reasonable Expect about 5 hours over 2 or 3 weekends.

1. Using the old tiller as a pattern, cut the curve off the top of a 2 x 6 of suitible length using a band saw, jig saw or reciprocating saw (if you are using a coping saw here, you need to get out more and make new friends). This will be your laminating block. Screw it to a sawhorse or clamp it in a Workmate( this will conserve expletives for more difficult projects).

2.Trim 1/4" slats of a suitable wood to the width of the widest part of the old tiller plus 1/4 ". I have observed that a lot of the failed tillers that I have seen were constructed of white oak and some darker wood used for ethetic purposes. Oak is extremely strong, flexible and durable. Its large pores make it more difficult to finish and susceptible to warping. I believe this combination makes it more susceptible to delamination also. I prefer hickory for tillers. It is as strong and flexible as oak, but is easier to work and finish. If you want a striped effect, bleach half the strips in oxalic acid (teak cleaner, Zud etc.) and soak the rest in a dark stain (jacobean) overnight wrapped in plastic.

3. Use an old candle or soap to prepare the top of the laminating block in order to keep the project from sticking. Plastic will work and will not transfer to the work but will use up your stock of expletives when you start clamping. Acetone will remove it prior to finishing.

4. I prefer a two part resorcinal glue such as Weldwood Marine glue. It has a dark color when set(which I find attractive in a lamination) and fills gaps. A marine grade epoxyn should work as well but I don't trust its flexibility.

5. Glue up and clamp the lamination. I find I get better shape and bond by alternately clamping the convex portion of the ends between lams and removing the last clamp as I go. i.e. first lam = 1 clamp left side, second lam = 1 clamp right side and remove first clamp, third lam 1 clamp left side and remove second clamp etc.. This is messy and cleaning the clamps is a witch, gloves are a must. You can lay up the lams and pull them down into the curves, but the clamping pressure needed to accomplish this on anything but a very large radius will squeeze out too much glue and reduce the strength of the lamination joints.

6. After the glue is fully cured, the tiller can be shaped. Remove the clamps and laminating block (Duh!), then form the rough shape you desire using whatever tools you have, or favor, such as band saws, rasps, belt sanders, etc.. I favor a properly sharpened spoke shave as I can get to final form in about 15 minutes and require only minimal sanding. One note on sanding: this is a good project to learn the use of a cabinate scraper if you don't already have one. They quickly produce a very smooth finish without much firring.

7. Finish with your choice of products and procedures (I won't start a discussion thread here).

8. I've probably left something out or put it wrong, but our cohorts in the group will, thankfully, step in correct the shortcoming.

FW&SS,

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Chris B.