Some of you had requested I post the results of the headlining project on my 2-27.
When I started, the headliner had "let go" under the deck on both sides, had started peeling back in places from the portlights, and had been drilled through by a PO to attach backing plates for winches, etc. I stripped the sagging headliner off and took out all the mounting screws and plastic snapon attachments on the underside of the salon roof. I also removed all the hardware, grabrails, hatches, stormhood, etc. but that's another story. I then scraped all the accumulated, rotted foam and old glue off the undersides of the deck, around the portlights and up to the salon roof. I then cleaned it with Goop, acetone, and other equally toxic stuff but the residue was insidiously tenacious.
I then prepared just the salon roof for application of the Sequentia, which is a fiberglass-reinforced panel sold in 4x8 sheets, available in different colors. I cut 1 1/2" strips from thin okeme ply.
After careful measurements and preparing the underside of the salon roof, I epoxy-laminated layers of three to conform to curve of the roof. I would goop (epoxy and cabosil) one layer, screw it into the coachroof with a tiny screws, goop the second and staple it up to hold it temporarily, screw it in and then do the last, filleting all the layers, in particular where the roof met the first layer. After it had hardened, I did a rough finishing and put on a last coat of epoxy. I then snapped a center chalk line, did careful measuring (I took two kinds of measurements: one was a schedule, much like stations when building a wooden boat, which my wife and I then transferred to an actual pattern on brown paper, using a thin batten to form the curve between the points. After testing the pattern, I transferred this to the Sequentia, cut it with snips and was ready to apply it. I bought adhesive backed Velcro which I attached to the battens as well as to the Sequentia (again, careful measurements called for, so they meet when it is put up. Upon installation (after the application of the foam described below) I found that the Velcro couldn't hold the biggest curve towards the portlights so I used a screw backed with a finish washer to hold it in there. I used a teak batten to cover the seam where the two pieces joined along the chalkline, and finished the other edges with the plastic trim they sell to finish Sequentia, which I applied with a little 101 as glue. From the edge of the Sequentia down I decided to replace the foam-backed headliner with a similar fabric ordered from Sailrite, using 3m industrial strength adhesive for automotive trim. Used the same measuring process we made a pattern, tested it, and took this and used it to cut the headliner material leaving an inch around for safety's sake. We retested it as best as four hands and a lot of spring clamps can, then started applying it from the hull/deckjoint up, in two shots (spray, apply and smooth with the second half rolled up and protected, then doing the second part after the first had set). We cut through the portlights as we went on (I was not THAT confident of our measurements. . .) After that, I replaced all the teak trim that I had removed and replaced the two interior grabrails. I am trimming around the hatch with a cedar "L" shaped trim, which I manufactured and finished at home after figuring the price of a similar teak trim. This, too will be applied with Velcro, making the reseating or addition of coachroof paraphernalia much easier -removal of 8 small screws and the velcro-bound sequentia panels.Now, when I lie on in the berth and look up, it is a more pleasant vista.
Phil Becker
Affinity 2-27
Bellingham, WA