The rub rails have not really changed through the models of CAL 25s. One size fits all for the flat deck CAL 25 model (and fits some other CAL models as well). A 55 foot long section is suitable for the 25. The rub rail is folded over the deck-hull joint where the deck and hull of the boat are joined. The rub rail has a cross section (two internal lips - top and bottom) that allows it to be plugged onto the lip of the joint.

Removal
If there are no screws going vertically through the rail, simply unscrew the 2 brass caps near the stern at the ends of the rub rail (nuts are inside the hull), and peel the old one off going around the boat. If there are vertical screws going into the rail, just unscrew them first, and the whole rail should peel off (there shouldn't be any type of glue). Then proceed as below.

Installation
The new rub rail fits over the deck hull joint which forms a lip around the boat. Unscrew the two brass caps at the aft end of the old rail (nuts are internal to hull). Embed one end of the new rail inside the cap and use an awl to put holes in the rail through the brass cap bolt holes to reinsert the screws. Bolt the one side back in. Fold the rail over the lip of the joint as you move forward, stretching the rail (a lot) as you progress.
Basically, you insert the top lip of the rail or the bottom lip of the rail, and then roll up or down to get the other lip to catch. (A rubber mallet sometimes helps.) Really does take two people. At the other end, mark and cut the rail while it is stretched. Use the back of the other brass cap (where it would be if still installed) as a marking reference. Then with rub rail tension relieved, feed it into the end cap with screws as you did the first one. Then restretch to get the cap to the holes in the hull.

Also a good idea to put screws up from the bottom of the rail through the hull joint lip (number 10 self tapping ~1.5 inch pan head or oval head with washers like the decorative ones) into predrilled vertical holes. Holes should not go to the top of the rail. Put these about every two feet starting at the bow back about 10 feet on each side. This keeps the rail from getting knocked off in heavy seas (bow slamming kinds of weather).

Some Notes
Here's the rub (sorry for pun). The rail is best installed warm (if not hot) since it is more resilient and supple that way (stretches better). Could be a problem in the winter depending on where you live. I've heard heating methods all the way from hot water buckets (even an oil drum full of water over a propane fire), to hair dryers, to letting the rail sit on a hot summer parking lot for a while. One other is to put the rail in a dark trash bag sitting out in the sun.

If you see any gaps in the joint between deck and hull while the rub rail is off, might be good to caulk (polysulfide is my preference). The joint must be well very cleaned before caulking. Scrub it out then wipe or brush with acetone.

I have seen a CAL or two where someone had filed down the lip in the deck/hull joint. Looks prettier with no rub rail, but sure screws up the install. On one boat, we had to go with the screws all the way around at 18 inch intervals.

Charlie Husar
Annapolis, MD
charlie@cal25.com
410-684-6477 (w)