Fig 1.
Remove the triangular piece holding the carpet to the rear wall of the trunk.  It is attached with plastic clips and is removed by pulling straight up.  This step is not required if you are just replacing a burn't out lightbulb.

Fig. 2
Remove the triangular side light by using a screw driver to pry the rear of the lense out away from the tail lights. Remove the 2 screws behind side lights.

Remove one black screw on top of the tail lights.

Fig. 3

Now remove the tail light assy. The assy. has 2 metal bars which snap into plastic clips (which become brittle and often break).  It is removed by pulling straight back.  If you are just replacing lamps, do so now, and reassemble.  Note, it is recommended that you have 2 spare plastic clips on hand to replace any broken ones.  These clips are pictured in Fig. 3, and are still attached to the body.

Fig. 4
Unplug the tail lights from the wiring harness.  The rubber boot is attached to the tail light wiring.  Pull both out of the car, and set the old lights aside.

Fig. 5
Remove the 4 - 8 mm nuts holding the rear honeycomb plate in place.

Fig. 6
Pictured is the rear body panel with the honeycomb plate removed, inverted, and held above the body.  The rear plate is held in place with 4 bolts, and 2 white plastic clips in the middle of the plate, and is removed by pulling straight back away from the body.

Fig. 7
The wiring harness from the old lights are moved to the new tail lights.  The metal bars which mate to the plastic clips on the car's body (ref. Fig. 3) are moved from the old lamp assembly to the new.

Fig. 8
Initially, I didn't think the old lamp bases would fit into the new lamp sockets.  So I opened up one of the slots using a Dremel.  This worked well; however, I later discovered that the old lamp bases actually DO fit into the sockets.... you just have to work at it!

Fig. 9
The old wiring harness doesn't give you enough wire to streach the back-up lamps to their new home.  So... pull the backup lamp sockets off the new wiring harness, saving as much wire as possible.  Cut the old backup lamp sockets off the old wiring harness, once again saving as much wire as possible.

Fig. 10
Soldier and crimp the wire from the harness to the new backup lamp bases.  White goes with white, red from the old wire harness mates with green to the new backup lamp bases.

Fig. 11
Using your ball pein hammer and a towel, dent the rear panel to create room of the backup lamps to fit.  Check your work by fitting the middle panel to the car.  The top and bottom edge should be flush with your car.  If it isn't, hammer some more.  A note of caution: avoid hammer blows near the lock cyclinder, as the cyclinder will tend to rotate toward your handi-work, and won't allign perfectly during your final assembly.  (Compare to Fig. 6 - before hammering on your bodywork).

Fig. 12
Remove the lock cyclinder by removing 2 - 10mm nuts.  Disconnect the trunk pull cable, extension rod, and alarm wire.

Remove the assembly, and take inside or to your workbench.

Fig. 13
View of back of lock assembly.  Not the orientation of the various components.

Fig. 14
Remove the tin ring (shown below the cyclinder housing) from the front of the lock cyclinder.  Insert the key.  Remove the C clip from the back of the assembly.  This clip holds the lever, a brass washer, and the alarm trigger (shown from the top down).

Holding the assembly over a towel, slowly remove the lock cyclinder (shown to the right) with the key.  As you begin to remove the cyclinder from the housing, a small 0.1cm ball bearing will be dislodged from the rear of the lock cyclinder housing.  If you look carefully watching the rear of the housing as you pull the cyclinder out the front, you will see it.  Be sure to work over a towel as you will hear the ball bearing as it disappears if it falls out without you catching it.

With the lock cyclinder removed, remove the key, and 9 brass pins (7 of these pins are shown to the left and right of the cyclinder).  These pins will be re-installed in the new longer lock cyclinder in the precisely the same orientation.  So as you remove them, place them in order!

Reinstall the pins in the new lock cyclinder, reassemble lock, check for operation, and reinstall in the vehicle.

Fig. 15
Install the center panel.  Install the side light panels by running the wiring into the car, seating the boot, and clipping the tail lights in place.  Reinstall 2 stainless screws in each of the side markers, and one finish screw on each side of the top of the center panel.  Snap the side markers back into place.

Step back and admire the view all the other cars will have.

Fig. 16
The next time you do the proceedure, it will take about 2 hours, but plan for 4 your first time.

Fig. 17
Now, for that 308GT insignia!