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In the heart of Mexico, about 800 miles south of the United States border, rise the third and seventh highest mountains in North America. El Pico de Orizaba (also known as CITLALTEPETL-mountain of the star 18,850ft.) and Iztaccihuatl ("Izta" 17,343ft.) rise impressively above the central plateau.

They provide a good introduction to high altitude mountaineering. For those interested in high altitude challenges, climbing the volcanoes of Mexico provide an excellent opportunity to begin developing the experience and skill necessary to succeed in the world's highest mountains.

Successful ascents will provide the climber with a strong sense of their individual ability to handle altitude. They are also a wonderful destination in their own right. Iztaccihuatl is crowned with snow and ice which form small glaciers at the higher elevations.

Izta is known in Aztec mythology as the "sleeping lady." When we speak of Izta we use body terms to describe parts of the mountain: la caballera - the hair, la caveza - the head, la orega, the ear, etc. Izta poses a challenging climb with many false summits on the approach.

After completing Izta we will take one day to rest and regroup before we advance to our second objective, El Pico de Orizaba. Orizaba stands as North America's third highest summit. It is an eroded volcano which still retains most of its symmetrical shape.

EXPEDITION ITINERARY

Day 1: Flight to Mexico City, afternoon arrival. We begin our journey in the cultural center of Mexico City where we hope to visit the world-renowned National Museum of Anthropology (Museo Nacional de Antropologia) situated in Chapultepec Park. Its 22 rooms house relics dating from the beginning of civilization through the present day. We spend the night in Mexico City and prepare for our first climb. (We also have the last day of our trip to visit sites in the city)

Day 2: We travel to the small town of Amecameca (8,200ft). Situated in the highlands, Amecameca rests at the base of Volcanoes National Park along the foothills of the mountains. We have lunch and spend part of the afternoon enjoying this beautiful traditional Puebla town. The people in this region are known for their warmth and hospitality. The marketplace is filled with foods and spices indigenous to the area while the surrounding countryside is covered by rich vegetation. After final preparations we drive to La Joya (11,000ft.) our base camp for our first objective, Iztaccihuatl, and overnight in tents during this first phase of acclimatization.

Day 3: We actively begin our acclimatization today by climbing to 14,000ft. and then returning to spend the night once again at La Joya. We spend the rest of the day relaxing and prepare to move to our high camp tomorrow.

Day 4: We break camp, load our packs, and slowly climb to 15,000 ft. where we establish a high camp and prepare for our summit bid.

Day 5: We depart for the summit of Iztaccihuatl in the pre dawn hours via the Ayo-Loco Glacier. On clear mornings, the sunrise has proved to be exquisite and finds us climbing high on the mountain. We don crampons and ice axe for the upper regions of the volcano where we encounter an easy rock ridge, navigate across ice cliffs and finally traverse into a couloir just before our final push to the summit. By late afternoon, we return to La Joya and drive to Amecameca for a much deserved rest, showers, and a good night's sleep.

Day 6: Our second objective is Mexico's highest mountain, El Pico de Orizaba. (Mountain of the Star) At 18,850', it stands almost 1,000' higher than legendary Popo. Our day begins with drive to Tlachichuca where we load our gear into 4 x 4's for the drive to our base camp at Piedra Grande (14,000 ft.), the lower slopes of Orizaba.

Day 7: We pack up our camp and move to 16,000 ft. furthering our acclimatization and putting us in a better position for a successful summit attempt. We set high camp and prepare ourselves for an early morning departure for the summit. We spend the rest of the day relaxing and preparing for tomorrow's climb.

Day 8: Our ascent of Orizaba is similar to Izta, we begin before dawn to take advantage of optimum snow conditions and provide ample time to complete the climb before dark. En route we climb through a rock ravine, make a moderate roped ascent and traverse a series of crevasses. On the final stretch we maneuver the ridge along the crater's edge. From the summit, we scan the Gulf of Mexico to the east and the central plateau to the west. We descend and drive to the town of Puebla for the night.

Days 9-10: We return to Mexico City and spend the night. There will be time to take in Mexico City's wonderful collection of colonial buildings from the Spanish era, epic murals by the likes of Rivera, Orozco and Siquieros, exquisite museums of art and archeology, and outlying pre-Hispanic archeological sites. The next morning we depart and head home.

LAND COSTS INCLUDE All in-country transportation Hotels accommodations All group camp supplies, such as tents, stoves, etc. All group climbing gear All meals while climbing All hut fees, park fees and permit

LAND COSTS DO NOT INCLUDE International round-trip airfare USA-Mexico Meals in Mexico City, Amecameca (and Tlamacas) Personal gear (see gear list) Excess baggage charges and airport taxes Personal items Trip cancellation insurance Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Alpine Mexico—Fernando Trejo, Alpine MexicoProgram Director

VOLCANOES OF MEXICO Cost $1,850. Deposit $500.00

Minimum group size: 2/ max 5