Diel's Globe Swift

Ready to go

My Globe Swift from Diels Engineering is finally done. As shown the plane weighs 20.5 grams. I currently have a feeble 1/8", two strand motor for testing purposes. Total all up weight ready to throw is 23.5 grams.

I did not choose a specific plane to model, but the features on this plane are typical of the Swifts I have been around. If you want to see some full scale Temco/Globe Swifts, then check out the Swift Museum page.

Update: I recently got word from Denis Arbeau, creator and webmaster of the awesome Globe Temco Swift page. Somehow he searched the net (I have never submitted my drivel to the masses) and found my excuse for a web page. I am honored to have been placed as a link from the Swift page.

bones

I ended up sheeting most of the nose using 1/32" balsa. I knew it wouldn't look right unless I did at least the sides and where the windshield goes on. I have moved the rear peg supports forward and down one bay, and there is an aluminum tube used for a the rear peg. I hinged the tail surfaces using tiny pieces of bread tie wire so that I could make any adjustments without adding tabs. I shaped the nose block to resemble some of the aftermarket units. I added a hat shelf in the rear of the cockpit both to hide the gaping hole and to aid in canopy and tissue attachment. It's a piece of 1/32" sheet soaked and wrapped around a pop can. I used another piece of wet 1/32" sheet for an instrument panel visor. I used very thin material for the windows, and some drafting film for the "lid" on top. It does not have landing gear, though I may make some if it doesn't get trashed too soon.

Covering is white japanese tissue painted with silver florist spray (1.1 grams added to a sheet of 18x24 tissue, which is just about exactly how much covering is on the plane). I have added a stripe to each side, using more florist spray on some red Peck japanese tissue. A very light coat was plenty to make a nice opaque color. I then folded it in half and improvised a simple stripe with a razor blade. Lesson learned: Next time I'll be cutting through four sheets of tissue. That way I'll have a back up in case I mess one up. The stripes were then coated with UHU glue stick and positioned.

my nose block

What I am doing for a nose bearing is to spring board off an idea I got from Al Lidbergs Turbo Porter plan. To see his concept is a real forehead slapper, and worth the price of the plans just to see it. In my case I have chopped a Peck (large white) nose bearing in two pieces. I took the forward piece (the part with the flange) and I've counterbored it from the back. I used a piece of aluminum tube glued into a piece of very thin plywood for the rear support. By putting a slot in the end of the ply piece and holding it with a screw I have about 10 degrees of adjustment in any direction that makes me happy. It weighs very little and is stone simple to adjust. It doesn't look very durable, but it's held up through several motor runs. Once I get a good thrust setting I'll tack a it down with a few little spots of adhesive. The stock Peck prop hook will be replaced with a z-bend hook soon, but I wanted to get this thing going.