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Heritage of Aceh Sumatra: The Decline & Sinking of Atjeh Historical Cities
Quotations ...

1. Aceh has just recently been discovered as a tourist destination. Its fascinating character will attract many visitors in the future. The sea garden in Pulau Weh, the lake of Laut Tawar, the archipelago of Pulau Banyak, the scenic west coast, and maybe the finest national park in the world, Leuser Ecosystem, are all unbeatable attractions. Not only nature, but also the culture of Aceh is unique and very much alive. Many different ethnic groups with their own languages, arts, music, dancing and handicrafts give a great variety to the cultural landscape of Aceh. The history of Aceh as a Strategie point between south Asia und South Hast Asia is both dramatic and interesting. Many historical sites from the long period of a rich Sultanate are well preserved and interesting to visit. Few people are as welcoming to visitors as the Acehnese. The ease of making new friends, the social life and the cuisine are all part of the atmosphere that will make your travel experience extra spicy. The policy of our government is to develop eco-tourism. Our efforts are therefore concentrated on promoting destinations suitable for vliitors interested in nature and culture. Our aim is that nature should be used without being depleted; looking at it is better than destroying it. One aspect of eco-tourism is recycling. As recycled paper cannot be found in Aceh we hope that this book will be recycled instead. I.e., thnt you, after having read and used it, will pass it on to a friend. We also hope to recycle you! I.e., that you will come back and visit us as many times as possible. In order to make your travels in Aceh easier and rewarding, we have produced this hand book especially for you. We hope that it will provide all the help you need, though anyone you will meet in Aceh will do their utmost to make your stay as unforgettable as possible. We look forward to seeing you in Aceh. Welcome! ;V (Prof. Dr. Syamsuddin Mahmud, Governor of Aceh, Banda Aceh, Sept. 10, 1996)
2. Aceh had a Strategic position at the northwestern tip of Sumatra in between East and West. Aceh became a transit point for spices from the Moluccas, camphor from Barus and its own pepper. Aceh also became the entry point for Islam, brought in by Arabic, Persian, Turkish and Indian traders. Although Java already had been influenced by the Islamic World, it was Aceh that became the first really Muslim put of Indonesia. By the end of the 13th Century, an Islamic kingdom emerged, Pasai, which not only become a commercial center, but also a religious and educational center. The Portuguese arrived the first time in 1509 to the kingdoms of Pasai and Pedir (Pidie) and they later conquered Malacca. This whole period was marked by the rivalry between Aceh, Johor and the Portuguese in Malacca for the control over the trade in the Malacca Straits. Even though Aceh fmally won this war, they never won full control and never managed to establish a permanent foothold on the other side of the Straits. The Acehnese were often hindered by internal dissension wlth a long row of short lived rulers. In 1607 to 1636 Sultan Iskandar Muda ruled Aceh and during his time Aceh became the major power in the area, built upon very strong military strength. The sea was ipntrolled by heavy galleys carrying 600-800 men. Land based forces had Persian horses, an elephant corps, big artillery and conscript infantry. In 1612 Iskandar Muda took Deli and Aru and in 1613 he defeated Johor, but Johor managed in the end to keep its independence by expelling the Acehnese garrison. In the following years he defeated a Portuguese fleet at Bintan, took Pahang and Kedah in Malaysia, sacked the Johor capital again and took Nias in 1624/25. In 1629 Sultan Iskandar Muda sent an expedition of several hundred ships against Malacca, but it was entirely devastated. According to Portuguese reports, 19.000 men were lost. The era during Sultan Iskandar Muda is considered to be the golden age of Aceh. After his iule Acehnese dominance decreased and Johor could prosper. The Portuguese were expelled from Malacca by Johor and the Dutch VOC. Aceh entered a period of internal disunity and the royal authority was considerably diminished. During Iskandar Muda era, Aceh was the niost important of the Indonesian kingdoms in Malay literature, especially religious literature. The four most important authors were Hamzah Pansuri, Syamsuddin of Pasai (d. 1630), Abdurrauf of Singkil (c. 1617-90) and the Indian Nuruddin ar-Raniri (d. 1658). After the decline in Acehnese power, Acehnese literature also lost its unportance. Between 1641 and1 1699 four queens ruled the Muslim Aceh. From 1699 to 1838 there were eleven sultans of little inportance. Of these eleven, three were Arabs, two Malays and six llugis. The court only controlled the city. The outlaying areas was ciontrolled by aristocracy, with the religious leaders äs their only form of challenge. On June 21, 1599 a Dutch trade ship under the command of Cornelis ile Houteman and his brother Frederick landed in Aceh. This ship was attacked due to a Portuguese provocation and Cornelis de Houteman was killed and his brother taken prisoner. In 1602 Gerard de Roy arrived from the Netherlands, as an envoy from the Dutch Prince Maurits. His aim was to establish better relations between the two kingdoms and was well received. Aceh sent two envoys to the Netherlands. In early June 1602, British merchants, sent out by the British Queen Elizabeth, arrived and reached an agreement with the Acehnese Sultan. A Charter of cooperation was signed. In the 1820's Aceh began again to emerge as a commercial and political power. In 1820 Aceh produced more than the half of the world's pepper. The American, British and French competed for the pepper and their gunboats were often active in violent incidents. A Acehnese leader emerged, Tuanku Ibrahim, who began to restore power of the Sultanate. He became the guardian of several Sultans and from 1838 until bis death in 1857 he had the title of-Sultan himself, Sultan Ali Alauddin Mansur Syah. He played the pepper rulers against each other and through an expedition in 1854 he imposed his authority over Langkat, Deli and Serdang. During this thne the Dutch had just suspended their own northward expanse and a clash with the Dutch became inevitable. The Dutch feared that Aceh would become too powerful or that another European power would intervene. The British and the Dutch had signed a treaty not to intervene, but the Dutch grew more and more concerned about other powers. Napolean Bonaparte had received an Acehnese emissary and the Turks had golten a request for protection from the Acehnese.The British preferred the Dutch control Aceh, rather than France or America. Through complicated maneuverings the Dutch and the British came to one of the biggest trade-offs in colonial history. The Dutch gave up the Gold Coast in Africa and the British allowed shipment of Indian contract workers to Surinam and gave the Dutch a free hand in Sumatra and equal trading rights North of Siak. This meant war, for the British in Africa and for the Dutch in Aceh. In 1873 the Dutch used a meeting in Singapore where an Acehnese-American treaty was discussed, as an excuse to intervene. In March they bombarded Kuta Raja (present Banda Aceh) and landed with 3.000 men. The Dutch had misjudged the Acehnese resistance and had to withdraw with a loss of 80 men including their General. The Dutch then started a blockade. Aceh managed to get a huge army together, estimated at between 10.000 and 100.000 men. This was the best, best armed and best organized Opponent to ever face colonial expansionism. The Acehnese Sultan, Mahmud Syah, pleaded to the British, Americans, Turks and the French. Britain rejected his plea and so eventually did the Americans. The Turks were powerless and the French did not bother to answer. In late 1873 the Dutch attacked with their biggest force ever in Indonesia, around 10.000 soldiers. Both sides suffered big losses, especially to cholera. The Acehnese abandoned Banda Aceh and the Dutch declared themselves, the winner in early 1874, but very prematurely. The Acehnese never surrendered and the Dutch were more or less besieged in Banda Aceh, which forced them into a full scale war. The Dutch advanced by bombardments and burning villages, but the Acehnese only retreated further up the hils without giving up. In 1881 the Dutch declared the war to be over, which was far from the truth. The Dutch controlled, in reality only their own garrisons and in the end they had to leave the countryside to Acehnese control. The Acehnese guerillas were led by religious leaders and the resistance became a holy war against unbelievers. The most famous leader was Teungku Cik de Tiro (1836-91). A turning point in the war came when the Dutch started to take advice from the Islamic scholar, the Frisian Dr. Christiaan Snouck Hurgronje. The new Dutch governor of Aceh, Van Heutsz, carried out the new policy, which was to crush the religious leaders at any cost and try to appease traditional or secular leaders, the aristrocracy. In 1903, the Sultan Tuanku Daud Syah finally surrendered, but still went on plotting against the Dutch, and led an attack on Banda Aceh in 1907, which failed. He was fmally exiled. Also the major military leader surrendered in 1907 and became an official under the Dutch. Several religious leaders were killed in 1910-12. For the Acehnese, the war never ended though. During the Japanese occupation, many secular leaders were imprisoned or murdered. After World War II when the Dutch attempted to reconquer Indonesia, Aceh was carefully avoided., except for Sabang. The religious leaders saw, in the Japanese, a chane to get rid of the Dutch, but were disappointed and continued with guerilla attacks. Directly after the war the Acehnese (he Japanese who had to be evacuated by the Allies. A civil war between the pro-republican religious leaders and the secular leaders brooke out. The religious leaders won and Aceh became the only stable area in Indonesia when the aristocrats were deposed. On August 17, 1945 Indonesia declared itself as an independent Republic. The Acehnese supported the struggle against the Dutch with supplies, such as an airplane that was purchased with gold donations from the Achenese. This airplane became the first plane of Garuda International Airlines and is now a monument in Banda Aceh. In 1949 Aceh had been made an autonomous province of the Republic, but in 1950 Aceh was amalgamated with the province of Sumatra Utara. Aceh never accepted this, and in 1953 it came as far as military intervention from Jakarta and the Acehnese provincial government withdrew to the hills again. In 1957, a ceasefire was signed, but the stalemate lasted until 1959, when Aceh was given the "Daerah Istimewa" Status (Special District). Aceh obtained virtual autonomy in matters of religion, customary law (adat) and education. Fighting stopped, except for a few cases for two more years. Aceh gained what no other of the rebellious provinces managed to achieve.
3. The Grand Mosque: The most dominating feature of Banda Aceh is maybe its beautiful mosque, the Mesjid Baiturrahman (The Grand Mosque). It is one of architectural landmarks of Indonesia and dominates the centre of town. The original Mosque., was built in the 13th Century, but was destroyed by fire during a Dutch attack in 1873. The Dutch general was killed during this attack and a small monument is just the main entrance to the Mosque. The present Mosque was built by the Dutch as compensation and was completed in 1883.
4. Museum Aceh: This museum gives a good over all view of the history and culrure inl Aceh. A traditional Acehnese house is the center piece of the museum, It was built in 1914 by the Dutch Governor Van Swart. Another of thol many interesting exhibits is the "Cakra Donya". A big bell presented to Aceh [King of Samudra Pasai] as a gift from a Chinese Emperor. An inscription on the bell says "Sing Fang Niat Toeng Juut Kat Tjo" which translates into the curious "Sultan Sing Fang, which had been completed in the 12th month, the 5th year". There are some important graves in connection to the museum grounds. Among them, the grave of the important ruler Sultan Iskandar Muda (1608-1636). Jl. Sultan Alaidin Mahmud Syah. Ph: 23144. Open Tue.-Thu: 8.30 - 14.00. Fri.-Sat: 8.30-12.00. Entrance is Rp. 200.
5. Museum Ali Hasymi is one of Acehnese leader who had ever involved in many important events in Aceh. He has dedicated almost all of his life for the development of Aceh. Now, by the end of his life he has donated his own house for a museum and filled with antiques and old transcripts which are very interesting for visitors. This museum is located on Jalan Sudirman No. 20, Banda Aceh.
6. Pendopo is the governor's recidence built by the Dutch in 1880. Architecture and grandness convays a feeling of the old colonial days. It is just ten minutes walk from the Grand Mosque. Not open to public but from the outside the reception hall can be seen. Report to the guards first.
7. Kandang XII is a grave site where twelve sultans are buried. Of thes twelve, only three sultans are identified. They probably ruled Aceh during the 16th Century. Kandang XII is located next to the Pendopo in central Banda Aceh. From the main gate of Pendopo, go to the left and among the housing area, you will find it. The area is, in itself, nice with its old colonial buildings.
8. Taman Sari Gunongan: Taman Sari is a park with two buildings in it. One is Gunongan which was built by Sultan Iskandar Muda in the early 1700's hundred, for his homesick wife, Putri Pahang, from Malaysia. Gunongan is supposed to resemble a mountain in Malaysia and was used for both recreationn purposes and to change clothes after swimming in the river. This architecture has influences from Hinduism even though it was built during the Muslim kingdom of Aceh Darussalam. The other building is the grave of Sultan Iskandar Thani. He was in favor of Sultan Iskandar Muda and was given the daughter of Iskandar Muda as his wife and also inheritated the Sultanate. It is centrally located, not far from Kerkhof. Open 7-00-18.00 every day.
9. Kerkhoff Peucut: A graveyard in central Banda Aceh where about 2.000 Dutch soldier rests peacefully. They were killed during the Acehnese war. Their names and the place where they met their fate can be read at the gateway. The most famous grave is maybe the one of General Kohler who was killed during the attack on the Grand Mosque. There is even a small jewish section in the back.[Read the book written by Historian Maidar on the Jewish life in Aceh, 2000] On Jl. Iskandar Muda, not too far from the Grand Mosque. Open 7.00-18.00 every day.
10. The RI001 Monument: This is a Douglas DC-3 airplane turned into a monument to commemorate the Acehnese effort in freeing Indonesia from colonial masters.
11. Cut Nyak Dhien Museum: Cut Nyak Dhien was a famous woman freedom fighter married Teuku Umar. Her activities were very embarassing for the Dutch wli finally burnt down her house. A replica of her house, filled Acehnese artifacts and various posessions of Cut Nyak Dhien, Stands in the original place in Desa Lam Pisang, 6 km west of Band Aceh. It is a historically, culturally and architectorially interestin museum and a vivit is recommended. Jl. Banda Aceh - Meulaboh Km 12. Open 8.00-18.00 every day. Take labi-labi towards Lhoknga.
12. Indra Puri Mosque: Probably the oldest mosque in the Banda Aceh region. Indra Puri was once the center of worship in a Hindu kingdom. After Islam had been introduced in the area by Sultan Iskandar Muda, the temple was converted into a mosque. It is about 25 km to the east along the road to Medan. You can go to Indra Puri village with labi-labi 01 H. It is located 500m from the road, just after the bridge.
13. Benteng Inong Balee: A few kilometers beyond Kreung Raya are the ruins of Balee Inong fort, over-looking the ocean. This fort was built under the command of finale Admiral Malahayati. She was a widow of an admiral, and an army of widows to defend Aceh from Portuguese attacks. It is not too far to walk from Kreung Raya, but a labi-labi can also be chartered.
14. "Ie Seu-um" hot springs: Beyond the ferry terminal in Kreung Raya and inland are nice hot spring. Going there will take you through black pepper plantations. Aceh was once the biggest Black Pepper producer in the world.
15. Benteng Indra Patra: Indra Patra Fort was built, according to some sources, by Sultan Iskandar Muda, or, according to others, during Indra Patra Hindu kingdom. There are traces of Hindu influences in the architecture including several Stupas. The fort was use as defense against hostile invaders. It is located app. 20 kilometers to the east and can be reached by labi-labi 02 towards Kreung Raya. A lively place on Sundays, a located near a nice beach that is good for swimming.
16. Tanoh Abee Library: This remote library with an adjoining museum is in Desa Tanoh Abee and specialises in Islamic literature. It is well-known among scholars in the world. It is owned by the former Governor of D.I. Aceh and present President of Majelis Ulama Indonesia in Aceh (the highest body for religious affairs in D.I. Aceh), Prof. H. Ali Hasymyi. It is invaluable manuscripts from the 17th Century, mostly written by the g reat Acehnese Ulamas (religious leaders) such as Syech Abdurrauf (Syiah Kuala), Syech Nuruddin Arraniry and Syech Syamsuddin AI Sumatrani. The library is located 45 km from Banda in Ihe Seulimun area. App. a one hour journey by car. You can (labi-labi 01 J to Tanoh Abee. From the main road it is a one kilometer long walk. The Library is open on Mondays thru Thursdays and on Saturdays 8.00-13.00, on Fridays 8.00-11.00. The museum is on Wednesdays and Thursdays 8.00-13.00. The tomb of Teungku Abee is located nearby in Selimun. He founded the library and a Muslim boarding school in Tanoh Abee. If you want to visit the grave, take labi-labi to Seulimun and ask the driver to bring you all the way. There is no public transportation all the way.
17. Lamno:
Lamno is a nice small town, famous in Indonesia for its blond people. Here you are likely to meet brown and blue-eyed Indonesians with hair. [Read the book written by historian Maidar on the European Village in the History of Atjeh] There are several theories about the reason for this. One is a Portuguese ship wrecked in the area, and the crew decided to Sittle down and eventually mixed with the local population. The center of the town is just off the main road to the east. Market day is Sunday.
18. Between Lamno and Calang Five kilometers south of Lamno the road crosses the river on a long bridge. The village, Lamn Beusue is located here, and the scenery with the village and river flowing out into the ocean is nice. Five more kilometers takes you to Patek. Patek has a lively beach with lots of fishermen. There are several nice places to eat overlooking the beach and bay with a small island in it. In the hinterland of Patek there is a transmigration settlement. From Patek to Lhok Kreut is 15 km. Pulau Raya south of Lhok Kreut has a beautiful beach. From Lamno to Lhok Kreut it is 33 km. The road passes through the beautiful area around Kuala Dho.
19. Kuala Dho (and Camp Eropa) Kuala Doe, three kilometers from Laguen and seven kilometers from Riga, norrth of Calang, has become well-known because of the German Dieter, who became Daud Jerman [German David], married Nurma and built bungalows in the trees. It is an area of many beautiful beaches. The best season is the eastern season, i.e., app. December to June. In this season the beaches are wider and turtles often come up and lay eggs, Even though the eastern season is the best, the western season will definitely not disappointed you in any way.
20. Elephant Training Centre: Not very far from Lhokseumawe, is the "Pusat Latihan Gajah Aceh", which is a training center for Acehnese elephants gone astray. In areas where elephants become a problem for the farmers, elephants are caught and brought to this training center as a measure of helping small farmers without killing the elephants. This is a program by the ministry of forestry with the aim of making the elephant useful instead of making them extinct. If the elephants are not too old, they are trained for productive work, like inoving logs, and for attraction and mnusement. Major logging companies are requested to employ at least two elephants each, trained by an elephant school. This center was started in 1987 and since then, app. 20 elephants have been sent off for new duties. Now, Aug. 1996, there are 40 elephants in this training Centre.
21. House of Cut Meutia: In Desa Pirak, sub-regency Matangkuli, 25 km east of Lhokseumawe is the traditional Acehnese house of the national hero Cut Meutia. She was born in Perak in 1870 and was shot during a battle against Dutch colonialism, on October 24, 1910. The house was built by the Government to honor this Acehnese heroine.
22. Historical graves of the Pasai Kingdom Pasai was once the capitol of the Samudera Pasai Kingdom, founded by Malikul Saleh in the second half of the 1300's. This kingdom was the first one to use gold currency (Dirham) in South East Asia. Pasai also became the Centre of Islamic Studies in South East Asia. From here teachers were sent out to other parts of Indonesia, Malacc, Brunei, southern Philippines, and to southern Thailand. There are many remains of this Kingdom, especially historically interesting graves. Most of them are located in the sub-regency of Geudong, l kilometers east of Lhokseumawe. In Desa Beuringin is the grave of Malikussaleh who ruled Pase Kingdom from 1270 to 1297. In other sites nearby are graves of Moslem Scholars of the Samudera Pase kingdom, the gravre Te.ungku Peuet Ploh Peuet, and of Naina Hisanuddin. Her grave made of marble and decorated with beautiful calligraphy. In nearby Desa Kuta Karueng, in one of the grave sites, is the grave of the famous Teungku Syarief. In an other site is one the most beautlf graves to be seen in Indonesia, i.e., the grave of Sultanah (Queen Narisyah who ruled between 1420 and 1428. She was the grandchild of Malikudhadir (Sultan Muhammad) and the daughter of Malikussaleh. The grave is made of marble and is inscribed with flfle calligraphy. In a third grave site is the grave of Teungku Sidi Abdallah Tajul Milah, who was Minister of Finance in the Pase Kingdom. In Desa Mancang is the grave of the Pase King; Teungku Saleh Salihin. At an other bigger grave site in this village is, among many others, th grave of Teungku Batee Bale to be found. This grave has also fine inscriptions in calligraphy. In Desa Mancang, 16 km east of Lhokseumawe, is the grave of Teungku Di Iboih Adurrahman AI Fasi. This grave has fine calligraphy. Some people claim that this grave is older than the grave of Malikussaleh. On an other site is Said Syarief buried. Some claim that he was a minister of Pase and some claim he was the father of Fathahillah, and had the name Sunan Gunung Jati and that he was the founder of Jakarta. In Desa Blang Peria is the grave of Teungku Jakop, who was a prime minister in the Pase Kingdom. In Desa Nibong 10 km east of Lhokseumawe, is the grave of King Muhammad who ruled before the reign of Malikussaleh. In Desa Meunje Tujuh, sub-regency Matangkuli, 30 km east of Lhokseumawe, is the grave of another king who ruled the Pase and Kedah Kingdom. The inscribed poems are maybe the oldest to be found in Indonesia. (Compiled by ASH from: Mahmud Bangkaru (ed.): A Travelers Hand Book to Aceh. Aceh Tourism Office, 1997)

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Heritage of Aceh Sumatra: The Decline & Sinking of Atjeh Historical Cities Quotations ... 1. Aceh has just recently been discovered as a tourist destination. Its fascinating character will attract many visitors in the future. The sea garden in Pulau Weh, the lake of Laut Tawar, the archipelago of Pulau Banyak, the scenic west coast, and maybe the finest national park in the world, Leuser Ecosystem, are all unbeatable attractions. Not only nature, but also the culture of Aceh is unique and very much alive. Many different ethnic groups with their own languages, arts, music, dancing and handicrafts give a great variety to the cultural landscape of Aceh. The history of Aceh as a Strategie point between south Asia und South Hast Asia is both dramatic and interesting. Many historical sites from the long period of a rich Sultanate are well preserved and interesting to visit. Few people are as welcoming to visitors as the Acehnese. The ease of making new friends, the social life and the cuisine are all part of the atmosphere that will make your travel experience extra spicy. The policy of our government is to develop eco-tourism. Our efforts are therefore concentrated on promoting destinations suitable for vliitors interested in nature and culture. Our aim is that nature should be used without being depleted; looking at it is better than destroying it. One aspect of eco-tourism is recycling. As recycled paper cannot be found in Aceh we hope that this book will be recycled instead. I.e., thnt you, after having read and used it, will pass it on to a friend. We also hope to recycle you! I.e., that you will come back and visit us as many times as possible. In order to make your travels in Aceh easier and rewarding, we have produced this hand book especially for you. We hope that it will provide all the help you need, though anyone you will meet in Aceh will do their utmost to make your stay as unforgettable as possible. We look forward to seeing you in Aceh. Welcome! ;V (Prof. Dr. Syamsuddin Mahmud, Governor of Aceh, Banda Aceh, Sept. 10, 1996) 2. Aceh had a Strategic position at the northwestern tip of Sumatra in between East and West. Aceh became a transit point for spices from the Moluccas, camphor from Barus and its own pepper. Aceh also became the entry point for Islam, brought in by Arabic, Persian, Turkish and Indian traders. Although Java already had been influenced by the Islamic World, it was Aceh that became the first really Muslim put of Indonesia. By the end of the 13th Century, an Islamic kingdom emerged, Pasai, which not only become a commercial center, but also a religious and educational center. The Portuguese arrived the first time in 1509 to the kingdoms of Pasai and Pedir (Pidie) and they later conquered Malacca. This whole period was marked by the rivalry between Aceh, Johor and the Portuguese in Malacca for the control over the trade in the Malacca Straits. Even though Aceh fmally won this war, they never won full control and never managed to establish a permanent foothold on the other side of the Straits. The Acehnese were often hindered by internal dissension wlth a long row of short lived rulers. In 1607 to 1636 Sultan Iskandar Muda ruled Aceh and during his time Aceh became the major power in the area, built upon very strong military strength. The sea was ipntrolled by heavy galleys carrying 600-800 men. Land based forces had Persian horses, an elephant corps, big artillery and conscript infantry. In 1612 Iskandar Muda took Deli and Aru and in 1613 he defeated Johor, but Johor managed in the end to keep its independence by expelling the Acehnese garrison. In the following years he defeated a Portuguese fleet at Bintan, took Pahang and Kedah in Malaysia, sacked the Johor capital again and took Nias in 1624/25. In 1629 Sultan Iskandar Muda sent an expedition of several hundred ships against Malacca, but it was entirely devastated. According to Portuguese reports, 19.000 men were lost. The era during Sultan Iskandar Muda is considered to be the golden age of Aceh. After his iule Acehnese dominance decreased and Johor could prosper. The Portuguese were expelled from Malacca by Johor and the Dutch VOC. Aceh entered a period of internal disunity and the royal authority was considerably diminished. During Iskandar Muda era, Aceh was the niost important of the Indonesian kingdoms in Malay literature, especially religious literature. The four most important authors were Hamzah Pansuri, Syamsuddin of Pasai (d. 1630), Abdurrauf of Singkil (c. 1617-90) and the Indian Nuruddin ar-Raniri (d. 1658). After the decline in Acehnese power, Acehnese literature also lost its unportance. Between 1641 and1 1699 four queens ruled the Muslim Aceh. From 1699 to 1838 there were eleven sultans of little inportance. Of these eleven, three were Arabs, two Malays and six llugis. The court only controlled the city. The outlaying areas was ciontrolled by aristocracy, with the religious leaders äs their only form of challenge. On June 21, 1599 a Dutch trade ship under the command of Cornelis ile Houteman and his brother Frederick landed in Aceh. This ship was attacked due to a Portuguese provocation and Cornelis de Houteman was killed and his brother taken prisoner. In 1602 Gerard de Roy arrived from the Netherlands, as an envoy from the Dutch Prince Maurits. His aim was to establish better relations between the two kingdoms and was well received. Aceh sent two envoys to the Netherlands. In early June 1602, British merchants, sent out by the British Queen Elizabeth, arrived and reached an agreement with the Acehnese Sultan. A Charter of cooperation was signed. In the 1820's Aceh began again to emerge as a commercial and political power. In 1820 Aceh produced more than the half of the world's pepper. The American, British and French competed for the pepper and their gunboats were often active in violent incidents. A Acehnese leader emerged, Tuanku Ibrahim, who began to restore power of the Sultanate. He became the guardian of several Sultans and from 1838 until bis death in 1857 he had the title of-Sultan himself, Sultan Ali Alauddin Mansur Syah. He played the pepper rulers against each other and through an expedition in 1854 he imposed his authority over Langkat, Deli and Serdang. During this thne the Dutch had just suspended their own northward expanse and a clash with the Dutch became inevitable. The Dutch feared that Aceh would become too powerful or that another European power would intervene. The British and the Dutch had signed a treaty not to intervene, but the Dutch grew more and more concerned about other powers. Napolean Bonaparte had received an Acehnese emissary and the Turks had golten a request for protection from the Acehnese.The British preferred the Dutch control Aceh, rather than France or America. Through complicated maneuverings the Dutch and the British came to one of the biggest trade-offs in colonial history. The Dutch gave up the Gold Coast in Africa and the British allowed shipment of Indian contract workers to Surinam and gave the Dutch a free hand in Sumatra and equal trading rights North of Siak. This meant war, for the British in Africa and for the Dutch in Aceh. In 1873 the Dutch used a meeting in Singapore where an Acehnese-American treaty was discussed, as an excuse to intervene. In March they bombarded Kuta Raja (present Banda Aceh) and landed with 3.000 men. The Dutch had misjudged the Acehnese resistance and had to withdraw with a loss of 80 men including their General. The Dutch then started a blockade. Aceh managed to get a huge army together, estimated at between 10.000 and 100.000 men. This was the best, best armed and best organized Opponent to ever face colonial expansionism. The Acehnese Sultan, Mahmud Syah, pleaded to the British, Americans, Turks and the French. Britain rejected his plea and so eventually did the Americans. The Turks were powerless and the French did not bother to answer. In late 1873 the Dutch attacked with their biggest force ever in Indonesia, around 10.000 soldiers. Both sides suffered big losses, especially to cholera. The Acehnese abandoned Banda Aceh and the Dutch declared themselves, the winner in early 1874, but very prematurely. The Acehnese never surrendered and the Dutch were more or less besieged in Banda Aceh, which forced them into a full scale war. The Dutch advanced by bombardments and burning villages, but the Acehnese only retreated further up the hils without giving up. In 1881 the Dutch declared the war to be over, which was far from the truth. The Dutch controlled, in reality only their own garrisons and in the end they had to leave the countryside to Acehnese control. The Acehnese guerillas were led by religious leaders and the resistance became a holy war against unbelievers. The most famous leader was Teungku Cik de Tiro (1836-91). A turning point in the war came when the Dutch started to take advice from the Islamic scholar, the Frisian Dr. Christiaan Snouck Hurgronje. The new Dutch governor of Aceh, Van Heutsz, carried out the new policy, which was to crush the religious leaders at any cost and try to appease traditional or secular leaders, the aristrocracy. In 1903, the Sultan Tuanku Daud Syah finally surrendered, but still went on plotting against the Dutch, and led an attack on Banda Aceh in 1907, which failed. He was fmally exiled. Also the major military leader surrendered in 1907 and became an official under the Dutch. Several religious leaders were killed in 1910-12. For the Acehnese, the war never ended though. During the Japanese occupation, many secular leaders were imprisoned or murdered. After World War II when the Dutch attempted to reconquer Indonesia, Aceh was carefully avoided., except for Sabang. The religious leaders saw, in the Japanese, a chane to get rid of the Dutch, but were disappointed and continued with guerilla attacks. Directly after the war the Acehnese (he Japanese who had to be evacuated by the Allies. A civil war between the pro-republican religious leaders and the secular leaders brooke out. The religious leaders won and Aceh became the only stable area in Indonesia when the aristocrats were deposed. On August 17, 1945 Indonesia declared itself as an independent Republic. The Acehnese supported the struggle against the Dutch with supplies, such as an airplane that was purchased with gold donations from the Achenese. This airplane became the first plane of Garuda International Airlines and is now a monument in Banda Aceh. In 1949 Aceh had been made an autonomous province of the Republic, but in 1950 Aceh was amalgamated with the province of Sumatra Utara. Aceh never accepted this, and in 1953 it came as far as military intervention from Jakarta and the Acehnese provincial government withdrew to the hills again. In 1957, a ceasefire was signed, but the stalemate lasted until 1959, when Aceh was given the "Daerah Istimewa" Status (Special District). Aceh obtained virtual autonomy in matters of religion, customary law (adat) and education. Fighting stopped, except for a few cases for two more years. Aceh gained what no other of the rebellious provinces managed to achieve. 3. The Grand Mosque: The most dominating feature of Banda Aceh is maybe its beautiful mosque, the Mesjid Baiturrahman (The Grand Mosque). It is one of architectural landmarks of Indonesia and dominates the centre of town. The original Mosque., was built in the 13th Century, but was destroyed by fire during a Dutch attack in 1873. The Dutch general was killed during this attack and a small monument is just the main entrance to the Mosque. The present Mosque was built by the Dutch as compensation and was completed in 1883. 4. Museum Aceh: This museum gives a good over all view of the history and culrure inl Aceh. A traditional Acehnese house is the center piece of the museum, It was built in 1914 by the Dutch Governor Van Swart. Another of thol many interesting exhibits is the "Cakra Donya". A big bell presented to Aceh [King of Samudra Pasai] as a gift from a Chinese Emperor. An inscription on the bell says "Sing Fang Niat Toeng Juut Kat Tjo" which translates into the curious "Sultan Sing Fang, which had been completed in the 12th month, the 5th year". There are some important graves in connection to the museum grounds. Among them, the grave of the important ruler Sultan Iskandar Muda (1608-1636). Jl. Sultan Alaidin Mahmud Syah. Ph: 23144. Open Tue.-Thu: 8.30 - 14.00. Fri.-Sat: 8.30-12.00. Entrance is Rp. 200. 5. Museum Ali Hasymi is one of Acehnese leader who had ever involved in many important events in Aceh. He has dedicated almost all of his life for the development of Aceh. Now, by the end of his life he has donated his own house for a museum and filled with antiques and old transcripts which are very interesting for visitors. This museum is located on Jalan Sudirman No. 20, Banda Aceh. 6. Pendopo is the governor's recidence built by the Dutch in 1880. Architecture and grandness convays a feeling of the old colonial days. It is just ten minutes walk from the Grand Mosque. Not open to public but from the outside the reception hall can be seen. Report to the guards first. 7. Kandang XII is a grave site where twelve sultans are buried. Of thes twelve, only three sultans are identified. They probably ruled Aceh during the 16th Century. Kandang XII is located next to the Pendopo in central Banda Aceh. From the main gate of Pendopo, go to the left and among the housing area, you will find it. The area is, in itself, nice with its old colonial buildings. 8. Taman Sari Gunongan: Taman Sari is a park with two buildings in it. One is Gunongan which was built by Sultan Iskandar Muda in the early 1700's hundred, for his homesick wife, Putri Pahang, from Malaysia. Gunongan is supposed to resemble a mountain in Malaysia and was used for both recreationn purposes and to change clothes after swimming in the river. This architecture has influences from Hinduism even though it was built during the Muslim kingdom of Aceh Darussalam. The other building is the grave of Sultan Iskandar Thani. He was in favor of Sultan Iskandar Muda and was given the daughter of Iskandar Muda as his wife and also inheritated the Sultanate. It is centrally located, not far from Kerkhof. Open 7-00-18.00 every day. 9. Kerkhoff Peucut: A graveyard in central Banda Aceh where about 2.000 Dutch soldier rests peacefully. They were killed during the Acehnese war. Their names and the place where they met their fate can be read at the gateway. The most famous grave is maybe the one of General Kohler who was killed during the attack on the Grand Mosque. There is even a small jewish section in the back.[Read the book written by Historian Maidar on the Jewish life in Aceh, 2000] On Jl. Iskandar Muda, not too far from the Grand Mosque. Open 7.00-18.00 every day. 10. The RI001 Monument: This is a Douglas DC-3 airplane turned into a monument to commemorate the Acehnese effort in freeing Indonesia from colonial masters. 11. Cut Nyak Dhien Museum: Cut Nyak Dhien was a famous woman freedom fighter married Teuku Umar. Her activities were very embarassing for the Dutch wli finally burnt down her house. A replica of her house, filled Acehnese artifacts and various posessions of Cut Nyak Dhien, Stands in the original place in Desa Lam Pisang, 6 km west of Band Aceh. It is a historically, culturally and architectorially interestin museum and a vivit is recommended. Jl. Banda Aceh - Meulaboh Km 12. Open 8.00-18.00 every day. Take labi-labi towards Lhoknga. 12. Indra Puri Mosque: Probably the oldest mosque in the Banda Aceh region. Indra Puri was once the center of worship in a Hindu kingdom. After Islam had been introduced in the area by Sultan Iskandar Muda, the temple was converted into a mosque. It is about 25 km to the east along the road to Medan. You can go to Indra Puri village with labi-labi 01 H. It is located 500m from the road, just after the bridge. 13. Benteng Inong Balee: A few kilometers beyond Kreung Raya are the ruins of Balee Inong fort, over-looking the ocean. This fort was built under the command of finale Admiral Malahayati. She was a widow of an admiral, and an army of widows to defend Aceh from Portuguese attacks. It is not too far to walk from Kreung Raya, but a labi-labi can also be chartered. 14. "Ie Seu-um" hot springs: Beyond the ferry terminal in Kreung Raya and inland are nice hot spring. Going there will take you through black pepper plantations. Aceh was once the biggest Black Pepper producer in the world. 15. Benteng Indra Patra: Indra Patra Fort was built, according to some sources, by Sultan Iskandar Muda, or, according to others, during Indra Patra Hindu kingdom. There are traces of Hindu influences in the architecture including several Stupas. The fort was use as defense against hostile invaders. It is located app. 20 kilometers to the east and can be reached by labi-labi 02 towards Kreung Raya. A lively place on Sundays, a located near a nice beach that is good for swimming. 16. Tanoh Abee Library: This remote library with an adjoining museum is in Desa Tanoh Abee and specialises in Islamic literature. It is well-known among scholars in the world. It is owned by the former Governor of D.I. Aceh and present President of Majelis Ulama Indonesia in Aceh (the highest body for religious affairs in D.I. Aceh), Prof. H. Ali Hasymyi. It is invaluable manuscripts from the 17th Century, mostly written by the g reat Acehnese Ulamas (religious leaders) such as Syech Abdurrauf (Syiah Kuala), Syech Nuruddin Arraniry and Syech Syamsuddin AI Sumatrani. The library is located 45 km from Banda in Ihe Seulimun area. App. a one hour journey by car. You can (labi-labi 01 J to Tanoh Abee. From the main road it is a one kilometer long walk. The Library is open on Mondays thru Thursdays and on Saturdays 8.00-13.00, on Fridays 8.00-11.00. The museum is on Wednesdays and Thursdays 8.00-13.00. The tomb of Teungku Abee is located nearby in Selimun. He founded the library and a Muslim boarding school in Tanoh Abee. If you want to visit the grave, take labi-labi to Seulimun and ask the driver to bring you all the way. There is no public transportation all the way. 17. Lamno: Lamno is a nice small town, famous in Indonesia for its blond people. Here you are likely to meet brown and blue-eyed Indonesians with hair. [Read the book written by historian Maidar on the European Village in the History of Atjeh] There are several theories about the reason for this. One is a Portuguese ship wrecked in the area, and the crew decided to Sittle down and eventually mixed with the local population. The center of the town is just off the main road to the east. Market day is Sunday. 18. Between Lamno and Calang Five kilometers south of Lamno the road crosses the river on a long bridge. The village, Lamn Beusue is located here, and the scenery with the village and river flowing out into the ocean is nice. Five more kilometers takes you to Patek. Patek has a lively beach with lots of fishermen. There are several nice places to eat overlooking the beach and bay with a small island in it. In the hinterland of Patek there is a transmigration settlement. From Patek to Lhok Kreut is 15 km. Pulau Raya south of Lhok Kreut has a beautiful beach. From Lamno to Lhok Kreut it is 33 km. The road passes through the beautiful area around Kuala Dho. 19. Kuala Dho (and Camp Eropa) Kuala Doe, three kilometers from Laguen and seven kilometers from Riga, norrth of Calang, has become well-known because of the German Dieter, who became Daud Jerman [German David], married Nurma and built bungalows in the trees. It is an area of many beautiful beaches. The best season is the eastern season, i.e., app. December to June. In this season the beaches are wider and turtles often come up and lay eggs, Even though the eastern season is the best, the western season will definitely not disappointed you in any way. 20. Elephant Training Centre: Not very far from Lhokseumawe, is the "Pusat Latihan Gajah Aceh", which is a training center for Acehnese elephants gone astray. In areas where elephants become a problem for the farmers, elephants are caught and brought to this training center as a measure of helping small farmers without killing the elephants. This is a program by the ministry of forestry with the aim of making the elephant useful instead of making them extinct. If the elephants are not too old, they are trained for productive work, like inoving logs, and for attraction and mnusement. Major logging companies are requested to employ at least two elephants each, trained by an elephant school. This center was started in 1987 and since then, app. 20 elephants have been sent off for new duties. Now, Aug. 1996, there are 40 elephants in this training Centre. 21. House of Cut Meutia: In Desa Pirak, sub-regency Matangkuli, 25 km east of Lhokseumawe is the traditional Acehnese house of the national hero Cut Meutia. She was born in Perak in 1870 and was shot during a battle against Dutch colonialism, on October 24, 1910. The house was built by the Government to honor this Acehnese heroine. 22. Historical graves of the Pasai Kingdom Pasai was once the capitol of the Samudera Pasai Kingdom, founded by Malikul Saleh in the second half of the 1300's. This kingdom was the first one to use gold currency (Dirham) in South East Asia. Pasai also became the Centre of Islamic Studies in South East Asia. From here teachers were sent out to other parts of Indonesia, Malacc, Brunei, southern Philippines, and to southern Thailand. There are many remains of this Kingdom, especially historically interesting graves. Most of them are located in the sub-regency of Geudong, l kilometers east of Lhokseumawe. In Desa Beuringin is the grave of Malikussaleh who ruled Pase Kingdom from 1270 to 1297. In other sites nearby are graves of Moslem Scholars of the Samudera Pase kingdom, the gravre Te.ungku Peuet Ploh Peuet, and of Naina Hisanuddin. Her grave made of marble and decorated with beautiful calligraphy. In nearby Desa Kuta Karueng, in one of the grave sites, is the grave of the famous Teungku Syarief. In an other site is one the most beautlf graves to be seen in Indonesia, i.e., the grave of Sultanah (Queen Narisyah who ruled between 1420 and 1428. She was the grandchild of Malikudhadir (Sultan Muhammad) and the daughter of Malikussaleh. The grave is made of marble and is inscribed with flfle calligraphy. In a third grave site is the grave of Teungku Sidi Abdallah Tajul Milah, who was Minister of Finance in the Pase Kingdom. In Desa Mancang is the grave of the Pase King; Teungku Saleh Salihin. At an other bigger grave site in this village is, among many others, th grave of Teungku Batee Bale to be found. This grave has also fine inscriptions in calligraphy. In Desa Mancang, 16 km east of Lhokseumawe, is the grave of Teungku Di Iboih Adurrahman AI Fasi. This grave has fine calligraphy. Some people claim that this grave is older than the grave of Malikussaleh. On an other site is Said Syarief buried. Some claim that he was a minister of Pase and some claim he was the father of Fathahillah, and had the name Sunan Gunung Jati and that he was the founder of Jakarta. In Desa Blang Peria is the grave of Teungku Jakop, who was a prime minister in the Pase Kingdom. In Desa Nibong 10 km east of Lhokseumawe, is the grave of King Muhammad who ruled before the reign of Malikussaleh. In Desa Meunje Tujuh, sub-regency Matangkuli, 30 km east of Lhokseumawe, is the grave of another king who ruled the Pase and Kedah Kingdom. The inscribed poems are maybe the oldest to be found in Indonesia. (Compiled by ASH from: Mahmud Bangkaru (ed.): A Travelers Hand Book to Aceh. Aceh Tourism Office, 1997) Fördern Sie "the Sinking World Heritage" of Aceh Sumatra! (Mehr Infos bei ASH-Team) Herzlichen Dank! Aceh Sumatra Haus e.V.
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