Early in the morning of 4 November I arrived in Liuyuan. From there I took a bus to Dunhuang; 130 kilometers south (2,5 hours). I was cold and for some unclear reason to me Chinese do not have the habit of putting on the heater in cars and buses (although they all have one). The scenery however was beautiful: a pure and flat desert. The rising sun made the bus ride an even more beautiful experience. During the Han and (206 BC - 220 AD) Tang Dynasties (618 AD - 907 AD), Dunhuang was a major point of interchange between China and the outside world. Many trading caravans made a stop here. The main interesting spot is the nearby Mogao Caves. On first sight Dunhuang wasn't a very appealing town. However, I changed that opinion after I rented a bike and explored the town and its surroundings. My first goal was to visit the Crescent Moon Lake. I was amazed after I left the vicinity of the town. Huge sand dunes appeared on the horizon and it was like being in an Arabic movie set. Here it was where the oasis of Dunhuang met the desert. To visit the half moon shaped lake, like any other 'attraction' in China, I had to move my way through souvenir stalls and many different ticket offices. The locals who offered camel rides looked frustrated when they saw their only potential customer of that day continuing his trip to the lake by bike as oppoed to on the back of their pet. I didn't perceive the lake as being very impressive. The very small lake is formed by spring water that trickles up into a depression between the huge sand dunes. The scenery from the tops of the sand dunes (which were very hard to climb) was spectacular; sand everywhere, for miles and miles. The main reason I visited Dunhuang was the presence of ancient Buddhist caves about 25 kilometers south of the town. According to me these caves were one of the more interesting sights in China. The paintings (on walls and ceilings) were beautiful as well as the structures of some of the caves and, not to forget. The immense seated Buddha figures. One of these Buddha's is 35 meters tall, another 26 meters. It is hard to imagine that these figures (as well as the caves) were made by hand, projects, which took many years of hard labor. I very much enjoyed the Mogao Caves, however, I was disappointed on the other hand. During the tour (with guide) I realized that the Chinese Government presented themselves as the proud 'owners' of these Buddhist caves and did everything to protect and conserve them (as well as turning them in a Disney like scene). But this same Government destroyed more than 90% of all Buddhist monasteries in Tibet between 1959 and 1980 and executed many monks or sent them to labor camps.

In Dunhuang I decided to not continue on the Silk Route and therefore would skip Urumqi and Kashgar. Kashgar was actually my main goal of that part of the trip, however, cold weather and uncertain (and long) bus rides made me decide otherwise. Lhasa (Tibet) was my next goal. From Dunhuang I took the early morning bus to Golmud, a journey which took about 12 hours. This time I was accompanied by two Japanese travelers. We drove through the rugged Altunshan and arrived late afternoon in Golmud. Golmud (2800m) is a typical Chinese industrial city; gray and boring. Mining and oil drilling are the main industries.

Most westerners only visit this town to continue to Tibet. From within China there are only a few ways to travel to Tibet. One is to fly in from either Chengdu, Xi'an or Beijing, but tickets are very expensive (China Airways monopoly). The other option is to take the bus from Golmud. However, it is a horrible ride which sometimes can take more than 40 hours (some did it in 3 days). It is then that western travelers are confronted by the tough policies of the CITS (China International Travel Service). They don'' allow foreigners to buy regular bus tickets but force them to deal with them. In the past some travelers tried to avoid them but couldn't buy tickets themselves and sometimes were even fined by the PSB (Public Security Bureau). The main reason that travelers dislike the CITS is because they charge 1660 Yuan (US$ 200) for a ticket to Lhasa. Locals pay between 100 and 200 Yaun and take the same bus! Some foreigners (mostly Japanese) try their chances and take an 'underground' bus. Obviously this bus costs less but it doesn't guarantee your arrival. This bus takes alternate routes to avoid police and military checkpoints and often bribes have to be paid to either officials or even the bus drivers. The price we paid also included a return ride to Golmud (who want to go back?) and an unwanted three-day tour in Lhasa. The other ridiculous thing was that they only let you go on the bus when there is a minimum of five foreign travelers. I hooked up with Marianne and Rob (a Dutch couple I met in Dunhuang) and we tried to convince the two Japanese to join us. After many false promises, weird stories and bureaucratic procedures we were allowed to travel to Lhasa. Most people stay a few days in Golmud to get used to the 'thin air'. In the early afternoon we were brought to the Tibet bus station in Golmud and boarded a sleeper bus. A sleeper bus has 34 stretched seats and is especially designed for the longer hauls. These buses have seats on the bottom and seats on top of that row. After some ' battles' with the bus driver (which to Chinese is almost a Saint) we were able to get relatively good seats First they gave us the worst possible places. We simply took seats we liked and refused to leave them (traveling with western women helps because Chinese don't dare to argue or touch them). People of average height can almost lie in these sleeper seats. Unfortunately the length of Rob and myself didn't allow us to do that.

The long journey south would be one to remember. Five minutes outside Golmud we faced the first breakdown of the bus. It appeared that the steering wheel didn't work properly. It took them one hour to 'fix' it. The scenery was incredible. Desert like land with hills on the horizon. Before darkness we made one stop to eat some rice. The bus driver took the opportunity to fix his outside mirror, which a truck smashed off several hours before. After the sun disappeared behind the mountains it became incredible cold in the bus. Ice crystals appeared on the inside of the windows, as no heating was available. We were provided with blankets however, they were too short for us westerners. I cannot remember a bus journey, which was so cold. Water in our bottles froze during the trip. Some locals became so sick during the bumpy ride, that they vomited all over the place and together with the instant odor of garlic, created a smell, which was horrible. Unfortunately for me, also my Nepalese neighbor (shoulder to shoulder) only partly managed to open the bus window to empty his stomach outside. On one of the many toilet stops (just outside the bus in two inch of snow and freezing wind!) I took a leak and enjoyed the beautiful sky, which was full of stars. All of a sudden a Chinese guy who stood next to me (also doing his thing) dropped backwards on the dirt road. I immediately suspected AMS (as we were constantly traveling above 4000m) and together with the Japanese guy carried the man inside the bus. One lady brought oxygen, which was provided, to the unconscious man. This situation again proved how difficult it is to communicate with Chinese. I tried to convince the driver to move to a lower altitude or to stop a truck going in the direction we came from. None of this helped and we simply continued our ride (the man later left the bus, and appeared to be okay). Our bus was once checked at the Tibet/Qinghai border by the military police. All passengers, except us, had to show ID. Now we entered the 'Land of Snows', 'the Rooftop of the World' or as the Chinese call it; the 'autonomous region of China'. We were in Tibet bus still had to go a long way to Lhasa, the capitol city. After passing a few villages I got the impression that this was really a barbarian country (like many explorers in the 18th and 19th century called it). Houses were made out of mud, people looked dirty and smelled like Yak butter, men wore strange large fur hats and animal skins were used as coats. It was a complete different world, a world that could almost be compared with that of the Indian's in South America. The landscape was rough and but impressive and beautiful. Tibet (1.2 million sq. kilometers) has a population of 2.4 million. Tibet is unique, in all aspects. It is very different from other countries in the Himalaya's. Some describe it as a country filled with only poor and barbarian people, others adore its mysterious character. For sure it is a country where people need to be tough, as living conditions (outside the city) aren't pleasant, especially during the winter. It's a country where the dead aren't cremated or burried but chopped in pieces (in public ceremonies) and left for the vultures to eat. A country where Buddhism plays a very important role in day-to-day life. A nation where people drink loads of butter tea and regularly eat raw sheep meat and a mixture of flour, butter and tea (called Tsampa).

We all were looking forward to Lhasa, which meant a hot shower (if you are lucky) and a good bed. Unfortunately 20 minutes before this city, our bus broke down again (took them one hour to repair). The 31-hour bus ride was definitely one of the worst I ever made but the two drivers did a great job, considering the severe circumstances and the poor situation of the bus.

Lhasa is great! Especially in comparison to many cities in China. The people are friendly, the twon looks nice and cozy (except for the Chinese part, which is typical; structures with white tiles and blue windows). Moreover, there are real interesting things to see and do. Fortunately the Chinese army didn't destroy the Potala Palace (former center of the Tibetan Government and winter residence of the Dalai Lama) during the 'liberation' (as the Chinese call it. How sarcastic can you be) of Tibet. Barkhor Square (with the Jokhang Temple) which is a pilgrim route. During this time of the year Lhasa is packed with pilgrims, which is a very interesting experience. Thousands of Tibetans from all over Tibet undertake (once a year!) a religious trip to Lhasa and monasteries in the area. Khambas from eastern Tibet (who braid their hair with red yarn) and Goloks (nomads) from the north, who wear ragged sheepskins. Some of these pilgrims have to travel 15 days to be able to visit Lhasa. All of them carry rice (very expensive here in Tibet), flour and butter which will be given to the monasteries as an offer to Buddha.

Fortunately there were more backpackers in Lhasa, some which I met in Beijing. There were more westerners in Lhasa than during my whole trip through China. Other places of interest were the Summer Palace of the Dalai Lama (unfortunately that wasn't well preserved), and monasteries outside Lhasa like Drepung, Sera and Ganden. This last monastery (founded in 1409) was completely destroyed by the Chinese (subject to intense shelling). Only recently some 400 monks returned and started the reconstruction of the monastery. The Chinese didn't behave very well since they occupied Tibet. However, for sure they brought some economical development and also improved the living standards.

After more than a week in Lhasa it was time to move on. However, it was hard to leave my comfortable hotel with very nice and helpful Tibetan staff (and hot water 24 hours a day). Lhasa was great and I hope to return one day. Marianne, Rob and I spent several days planning a trip through southern Tibet into Nepal. We decided to make a 8-day trip in a 4-wheel drive (Toyota Landcruiser, 1980 model) to the Nepalese boprder via the Friendship Highway (approximately 900 kilometers). Highway implies a good comfortable road, however that is an illusion. The road is bad and very bumpy, with high passes (5000m and higher), ice, snow and a lot of ditches and cliffs. After negotiations with several travel companies, we found one agency (Shigatse travel) who offered us the best package for a good price.

- Day 1 - Lhasa to Samye; 17 November 1999

That morning, unfortunately, I had to leave Lhasa alone. Robe suffered from severe diarrhea and wasn't ready for the long, uncomfortable trip. We agreed to meet each other the next day, 80 kilometers south west of Lhasa (on my way back from Samye). Together with the driver and the guide (we were forced to hire a guide for this one day of the trip as it was a restricted area). To get to Samye I had to cross a river with a small, flat boat. This journey took 2,5 hours, as we had to go upstream. The many pilgrims on board made it an interesting journey. Two elderly people asked me for a picture of the Dalai Lama, which I didn't have. Again my boots, backpack and camera where points of interest and probably made the trip for most pilgrims very quick go by. On the other side we were loaded in the back of a big truck. The truck left after the back was completely full. There I was, among smelly pilgrims, packed like cattle. Because of my length I was able to keep my nose in the fresh air and enjoyed the 20-minute trip through the moonscape area. That afternoon I visited Samye monastery (the first monastery in Tibet, founded in 775 AD).

- Day 2 - Samye to Shigatse; 18 November 1999

After a cold night I was 'loaded' in the back of a truck again, which brought many pilgrims and me back to the boat. The ride through the desert was cold but worth it. This time it only took the boat 1,5 hours to reach the other side of the river. However, it was extremely cold, and the sun was not able to warm us up. On the way to Gyantse we picked up Rob and Marianne. Fortunately Rob felt better and was ready for the great tour to Nepal.

- Day 3 - Gyantse to Shigatse; 19 November 1999

After a rough night with many cold tours to the toilet outside the dormitory (my first case of diarrhea in almost two months of traveling), we had a fairly good breakfast. After I filled my stomach again we visited the Pelkor Chode monastery, which was different from all other monasteries because it was surrounded by an impressive, red colored, wall. Next to the main monastery building we climbed the Gyantse Kunbum, a large stupa which gave us a superb view at Gyantse. Gyantse also had a dzong (fortress) which is hard to avoid as it was built in the middle of town on a high hill. In the afternoon we drove to Shigatse (3900m), the second largest urban center in Tibet. This town is the seat of the Panchen Lama, a reincarnation of Amitabha (Buddha of Infinite Light), who ranks close to the Dalai Lama.

- Day 4 - Restday in Shigatse; 20 November 1999

Today no driving and no bumpy roads. We visited the Tashilhunpo monastery. Of course we were forced to pay the ridiculous 30 Yuan (locals pay nothing). However, the monastery was interesting enough to forget this 'foreigners charge' quickly. The monastery consisted of many buildings, small and big, two big assembly halls and also the tombs of the 4th-9th Panchen Lama's. Like all days so far the weather was good. During the day we had blue skies and a nice warm sun. Nights however were extremely cold. With hardly any heaters available I often asked myself how these people survived the brutally cold winters. Electricity is only available in towns of reasonable size and is more down than up. Most Tibetans don't have a car, and the only means of transportation are going by feet, horse back or by yak.

- Day 5 - Shigatse to Lhatse; 21 November 1999

The most impressive part of this day was a visit to the village of Sakya (4280m) and its monasteries. Before reaching Sakye we took the Yulung Pass (4950m). When we arrived in Sakya it was like we went back in time, back to the Middle Ages. The setting of the town, its houses made out of mud, and the way people were dressed will always stay in my mind. We visited the large monastery (surrounded by big walls with watchtowers) and a small nunnery (inhabited by less than 15 nuns) on one of the hills 200m above the village. It was a weird experience to walk through the narrow alleys, filled with litter, live stock and playing childeren (who didn't appear to be very healthy). Like everywhere in Tibet, trees are hard to find (mostly cut down to burn stoves). Therefore people collect cow drops, mix it with dried grass and make dinner plate size paddies out of it, which they put on the outside walls of their houses to dry. When dried, they are a great substitute for wood (which is hard to find) and coal (which is very expensive). That night we slept in a noisy town (called Lhatse, at 4050m). A place which appeared to be a real dump and mainly used by truck drivers who either slept or spent the night in a karaoke lounge (with speakers outside, which kept me awake until 3 in the morning).

- Day 6 - Lhatse to Mt. Everest base camp; 22 November 1999

After we left Lhatse in the early morning, we bought permits for Everest base camp in the small town of Shegar. The good news was that the road to the Rongbuk Monastery (close to base camp, where we would spent the night) was snow free. The road and scenery were spectatcular. Halway we took our last real meal in a village called Tashi Dzom. People warned us for the cold weather at the monastery and base camp, as well as the fact that there wasn't any food available (again instant noodles!). On our wayto the monastery we passed several very impressive ruins (Dzongkog Pongdro and Kyelung Hermitage). Around 17:00 hours we arrived at the monastery. The peak of Everest was hidden behind clouds, but the rest of the 8850m high mountain were clear and very impressive. Soon after we reached the monastery another 4WD Toyota arrived with three Dutch (you cannot get rid of those Dutch) and two Australians. We slept in the 'new' wing of the monastery and were reasonable warm. The night was spectacular; a full bright moon and a sky full with stars.

- Day 7 - Mt. Everest base camp to Tingri; 23 November 1999

At 8:30 hours I started the 2-hour walk to base camp with four others. It was a great but cold hike. The surrounding mountains kept us from any warm sunlight. It must have been -15 degree Celsius, water froze in our bottles and my fingers and toes were intense cold. However, the hike was great and I will never forget it. We again passed a ruin (called Rong Chung) which looked spooky but very interesting. It is so mysterious to walk through these ruins, not knowing why these places were abandoned. The top of the Mount was completely clear of clouds, which made it a spectacular sight. The upcoming sun made it even more beautiful; slowly the peak got an orange color and before we knew it, she was in full sunshine. Around 10:30 hours we arrived at base camp. We all noticed the 'thin air'. Like all base camps, they are not very attractive places. A toilet block marked the place, as well as many prayer flags. But the view was magnificent. Here we were at 5200 meters, on the North Face where in 1922 George Mallory first attempted to climb the highest mountain in the world (then 8848m, now measured at 8850m). He wasn't successful and later (in 1924) tried it again, but we still don't know if he reached the top. For me this visit to Everest base camp was one of the highlights of the 8-day trip. Something never to forget.

- Day 8 - Tingri (Tibet) to Kathmandu (Nepal); 24 November 1999

Except for the bus ride from Golmud to Lhasa, this was probably my worst night so far. It was incredible cold so I had to wear all my cloths, including thermo-underwear, a woolen hat and socks. I also filled my water bottle with hot water to keep my feet warm. The blankets smelled like if they had not been washed since the Han dynasty. During the night truck drivers started their engines several times to avoid that they would freeze. We left at 7:30 hours and continued to the town of Nyalam (3750m). Before Nyalam we took the La Lungla Pass (5200m) that offered us an awesome view over the Himalayas. In Nyalam we filled up our car with gas and took our last Chinese lunch. It was also in this town where Rob and I took the last opportunity to use a real Chinese squat toilet; it became a memorable experience. Just imagine two western guys balancing themselves over a hole in the floor, without any partitions to secure privacy and with one Chinese man comfortably doing his thing. We probably never get used to that way of going to the bathroom, even after one month of traveling through China. After Nyalam we drove a scenic route (a road which, according to us, the worst of the whole trip) to the Chinese border town of Zhangmu (2300m). In this town we exchanged our remaining Yuan's into Nepalese Rupees, and said goodbye to our excellent driver. Now we had to find other means of transportation. Between Zhangmu and the Nepalese border town of Kodari is an eight-kilometer dirt road. In stead of walking this part we arranged an empty Nepalese truck to take us. Together with three other Dutch and two Australians we took the ride in the back of the truck. In Kodari we bought our Nepalese visa and took a local cab, which drove us in 3 hours to Kathmandu, the Capitol City of Nepal. Here we enjoyed the comfort of a warm shower, shave and some great food. As European as we are, we went to a restaurant called The Old Vienna Inn and ate real bread, sauerkraut, rosti and bratwurst together with a huge beer. A nice change after eating noodles for eight days.

Compared to China, and especially Tibet, Kathamndu's Thamel area offers a complete world of 'luxury'. Restaurants and bars of all types are present. However, this neighborhood has so little that has anything to do with Nepal. Over the last five years (I was here in 1995 as well) the area only got crazier. Street vendors sell the same worthless artifacts and cheap linen (all from India) and on every street corner offer you hasj and Tiger Balm. The most dramatic change is the widespread availability of hundreds of Internet/email places (for US$1.5 per hour). To secure a quiet night, I stayed at a guesthouse (Tibet Peace Guesthouse)in the quiet and more relaxed Paknajol area (North of Thamel). I have a large single room with my own balcony (on the south side) and a shared bathroom and peaceful garden. Per night I pay 300 Nepalese Rupees (about US$4).

One of the relaxing moments in Kathmandu was the morning that Rob and I had a haircut and a 'real' fresh Nepali shave. I was happily surprised that they cut my hair without making a mess out of it. And the shave......that one was the best ever. My 6-day beard was cut off with one of those huge long razor blades (of course I got an unused one). The whole treatment (they shave you twice) took about 20 minutes. They end by cleaning the face with a hot towel, Dettol and a local after-shave balm. One evening I watched the latest James Bond movie in one of the many 'free' movie restaurants. Well even in Kathmandu there is not such a thing as a 'free lunch'. While watching the movie you have to order food, for pretty ridiculous prices. Anyway, the movie was horrible, that means not the movie itself but the quality of the copy we saw. Soon it appeared that they showed us an illegal copied version, one with Japanese and Indonesian subtitles. The movie was copied by using a video camera in a movie theatre (god knows where they copied it). The sound was terrible as well as the colors. So much for a free movie.

As mentioned earlier, Nepal unfortunately has few industries of its own. Mostly, because of the lack of raw materials. The carpet industry is an industry Nepal is well known for (producing carpets referred to as 'Tibetan' carpets). Weavers are predominantly found in the Kathmandu Valley. The city of Kirtipur ("City of Glory") is one of these cities with some carpet manufacturing enterprises. After a week of relatively luxury in Kathmandu, I had the urge to explore again. On a Nepalese mountain-bike I headed for Kirtipur, a town about 5 kilometers south of Kathmandu. Driving through the narrow and crowded streets of Kathmandu was different from biking through the 'open' cities of China. And riding on the left side of the road was another weird experience, but quickly got used to that. Soon I was part of large groups of riksha's; bikes with space for two passengers, used as taxi's. Again the bike proved to be the best way to see, smell and 'feel' a city. The only disadvantage was the passing trucks and buses, which cover every person with clouds of exhaust fumes. The air pollution in Kathmandu is horrible. The hills surrounding Kathmandu offer people proof of this. The city is constantly covered by a yellow-grey fog-like smog. Many people in the city, like myself, suffer from a nasty cough (not cold related). In today's issue of the "The Rising Nepal" it was mentioned that the Government was preparing measures to reduce the pollution.

Via the Tribhuwan University campus I arrived in Kirtipur and enjoyed the peace and quietness of this little town. It was obvious that this place wasn't on the itinerary of any tourist; I was the only one there. The local people were involved in day-to-day activities. Women were washing and most men were doing nothing (!) but smoking cigarettes. The houses looked fabulous. Brick constructions with beautiful wooden, carved window frames. From the Uma-Maheshwar (a Hindu temple, guarded by man-high elephants of stone) I had a magnificent view of Kathmandu (and its pollution). After a break, with a Coca-Cola for 10 rupees (US$0,15), I rode my bike to the other side of the Bagmati River, into Patan, also referred to as Lalitpur ('City of Beauty'). This city was once a very powerful and independent kingdom. Now it's largely absorbed by Kathmandu. I ate some lunch at a restaurant roof terrace at Durbar Square. The square is almost identical to that of Kathmandu's. Durbar means 'royal palace' and the square is the home of the old royal palace and religious temples. Via the Golden Temple (the most opulent little temple in Nepal) and Mangal Bazaar (area of the metal smiths) I biked back to smoggy Kathmandu.

It was time to pay the gods some respect and dignity. Today I took a taxi to Dakshin Kali (about 20 kilometers south of Kathmandu), together with my Tibet travel companions Marianne and Rob. Dakshin Kali is a sacrificial pit, which on Saturdays and Tuesdays is a very crowded place that offered us an intimate view of Nepal's religious rituals. The place is also the last stop of hundreds of chickens and goats. We arrived around 8:00 hours and already hundreds of people who gathered at the place, a not very architectural attractive place, at the bottom of a ravine. A little stream, as well as the forested area, made it a 'peaceful' place. However, many people were standing in line in front of a shrine which was tiled (so blood could easy flow away) and had many religious brass statues. One by one people, with their chicken or goat, were allowed in the little shrine area - bare feet - which was surrounded by a meter high fence. The to be sacrificed animals were handed to men of a special caste, who slit the animals throats and let the blood spray over the idols. You can imagine what an interesting sight this was. After we left Marianne discovered that part of my pants were covered with blood, apparently somebody dragged his/her chicken or goat too close to me. After the slitting procedure people left the shrine with the body of the dead chicken/goat in one hand, and the head in the other. The show was not over yet. Only 25 meters from the shrine, a very efficient 'animal cleaning' operation was in full swing. For a few Rupees people could have there dead animals cleaned and prepared for consumption. One person put the animal for a few minutes in boiling hot water. After that another man removed the feathers/skin. After this was done another guy cleaned the animal from the inside and removed everything the owner didn't want (and that was not a lot). The parts the owner did want were carefully cleaned and put in plastic bags. In a matter of minutes the animal was ready to be put on the grill.

Still amazed by what we saw, we started our 20 kilometers hike back to Kathmandu. This part of the valley was beautiful; the green hills, plowed fields and little towns. People were drying corn in the sun on large mats. The houses looked very peaceful; painted in beautiful colors and terracotta flowerpots made it appear like my dream vacation house in the south of France. People were very enthusiastic and were greeting us loudly (especially the children). In Sesh Narayan, a little town on a wooded hillside, we drank some refreshments and ate fresh fried vegetable Pokhauda, which was delicious. The last town we visited before entering Kathmandu, was Chobar. Like many other towns in the valley, it was a pleasure to visit. However, one aspect made this town different from the others. The front of the local temple (named Adinath Mandir) was completely decorated wit pots, pans and other kitchen utensils as well as mirrors. It appeared that there are many explanations for this; it ensures newly weds a happy union, others want to wish a recently departed loved one off to a prosperous next life. Both the hike and the sight of this kitchenware made us hungry. However, we were not able to get any food (even Nepal's national dish ' Dhal Bhat' was not available). Cheese crackers and tea were the only 'refreshments' we were able to get. Fortunately, Kathmandu was only 6 kilometers away from us.

Tomorrow I will leave for the city of Pokhara, about six hours by bus from Kathmandu (going west).