SP  KIT

The SP Kit (Sport Package) is made up of three main parts being:

The rear spoiler is painted to match the body colour.  Installation requires drilling two holes for each screw which must be rust proofed.  The spoiler must be BONDED to the car with the bonding kit # 9734.C8 from Peugeot dealers.  The screws are only used to keep the spoiler in place whilst the epoxy is curing.  You cannot use just the double sided sticky pads and other screws.  Must use the supplied screws and purchase the bonding kit.  Check to see that the bonding kit has not expired.

Requires the removal of front bumper.  The grill is installed as replacement of the OE black plastic.  The "SP" badge is affixed to the supplied metal bracket which must be bolted on the grill before installation.  Positioning of badge is owner preference.

Wheel arches are painted to match body colour.  Arches are then installed onto the car by means of the supplied clips which screw onto the bodywork.  No bonding of any kind is necessary to keep the arches in position.  If you are planning to upgrade to larger wheels, check that the arches do not rub on your new wheels or tires.  

The above set of parts will give your 206 a more sporty look and feel when compared to the non SP version.

For pictures of the above, please refer to the "Other 206" section.

Installation of SP spoiler

 Peugeot SP spoiler includes:

Peugeot bonding kit includes:

 Tools needed:

DIY of the spoiler is achievable if you have the time and patience.  

The black plastic covers on each side of the boot lid must be remove.  I found that the clips cannot be pulled out, the only way that I found possible was to push in the centre part of the clip.  You may now remove the clips from the housing to release the cover.  You will have to remove the part that has fallen into the boot lid by removing the rear black plastic cover.

Firstly, align the spoiler on the car, mark the alignment area and mask off ALL other areas (just incase the glue goes crazy!).  Then with the supplied yellow bottle of cleaner, apply on the bonding area on spoiler and car.  Then with the red bottle of primer, prime both areas of spoiler and car.  Be sure not to get this black primer anyway on the car, pretty hard to remove if you mess up, that’s why you must MASK off the area.  Dry off time for the primer is 10mins but I found it dried up in 5mins.  The 6mm holes you need to drill are only there to aid in the curing of the bonding kit.  I drilled two 6mm holes by using the supplied templates.  Secure the spoiler on the car with double sided tape to align the hole that you must drill in the spoiler.  The manual states not to drill more than 6mm but I drilled to 7-8mm with no problems.  Have one finger on the outer side of the spoiler to feel for the drill bit if it should decide to come through, STOP drilling! 

This part helps you more than an extra pair or hands.  On the bonding area around the spoiler apply a boarder of around 4-5mm of sticky pad tape.  I used two layers stuck on top of each other of heat resistant tape.  Carefully apply the bonding glue (black) on the spoiler, be sure not to apply too much.  You can test on a piece of wood to see how much surface area one line can cover.  I applied two thick lines on the top and bottom.  Then peel off the protective layer from the double sided tape and carefully align on to the car.  Press firmly onto the car and use the supplied screws which is designed so that when tighten a washer will expand into the ABS spoiler.  I misjudged one of the holes and could only screw in the LH side.  I held the RH side part for 20mins just to make sure that the glue had cured partially enough to hold the spoiler.  Manual states that the glue is moveable until 10 mins, drive off time in 90 mins.  I left the car in the car park for the whole night, that’s near 8hrs.  If the glue still doesn’t cure then its crap glue and the expiry date is for real.  The glue had expired by one month but I have been told by chemical technicians  that the date is only there to protect the supplier.  Polyurethane based glues have a shelf life of between 6-12 months so one month is not substantial to effect the chemical properties of the glue.  Plus a replacement set cost over $560 from LM and you have to wait TWO long weeks!  I wasn’t about to waste more money for an installation that I had to reinstall due to bad workmanship.  Updated  I have now sanded down both hole so that the screws may firmly tighten into the ABS spoiler, just to provide extra support from the downforce.

Installation of SP grill to follow....UPDATED

Peugeot SP grill includes:

Tools needed:

I have heard that there was a need to remove the front headlights completely.  However, a friend who has also remove his front bumper informed me that there was no need.  Removal of the headlights is not difficult but I was afraid it could effect the alignment of the light beam.

Prepare all the tools needed and be prepared to get dirty as you will be working under the car.

Firstly open the bonnet and remove the 4 plugs from the black cover above the “Lion” logo.  The plastic is held in place by 6 clips, which you must push from the inside.  After all clips are loose you may then remove the cover from the car.  Next gently unclip the 2 clips at each side of the front mid section.  Then with your fingers pull off the mid section by inserting your fingers at the end.  They are held in position by 2 white poppers, which should come off with little force.  The whole section should now be able to removed from the body of the car.  Next remove the center T-xx screw along with the 2 under each headlight.  Remove the side screws by using a small T-xx bit and spanner to gently remove being careful not to scratch the paintwork.  After this step proceed to the underside of the car and remove the 2 bolts in the middle.  Then remove the 2 T-xx screws at each side under the fog light area.  Then at each side of the front wheel, remove the black plastic cover by removing the 2 plugs.  These are located at the top and far side of the wheel arch.  Once remove the complete black cover may be removed from the underside of the car. 

It would be a good time to lay out some protective carpet or sheeting to prevent scratches on the bumper once removed.  Discount both of the cables for each fog light by using a pair of pliers to remove the “C” clip, replace on plug after removal.  The bumper is now removed by locating the single bolt on each side of the bumper.  This is located on the area where the bumper and fender met.  Once both bolts have been remove the bumper slowly and rest on the ground.

Now remove the OE black plastic grill by releasing the clips along the grill.  Then locate the SP grill through the front of the bumper making sure to align all 10 metal clips against the plastic tongue.  Once the metal clip and plastic tongue are aligned properly secure with the spring clip.  You may now install the SP badge on the grill or leave it off depending on your preferences.  Reverse the above process and admire the nice shiny chrome grill in place. 

Please remember the above is only advice from my own experiences, I will not be held responsible for any damage caused to your car, equipment or person(s).  

END

Page last updated 02/08/00