An introduction to Okinawa

Okinawa is a place of many contradictions, an Island kingdom of surreal beauty with a tragic history. It is a part of Japan, or more correctly has been a part of Japan, since the late 19th century, the period up until then was a relatively peaceful one for the Okinawans, who had built a solid relationship with other parts of Asia through trading and had acted as a gateway to Japan (which was closed to most of the outside world during the Edo or Tokugawa period 1600-1867). The success of Okinawa or as it was variously known 'The Ryukyu Kingdom' or 'Loochoo' lay in it's excellent geographic position easily accessible from most other Asian countries. What was once it's greatest strength also proved to be it's greatest weakness as first Japan and then The US occupied Okinawa to utilize it's excellent location. Japanese colonization brought with it many of the usual colonial discriminations and the Ryukyuans life, culture and language were seen by the Japanese as inferior. Tokyo soon started the suppression of the Ryukyuan's culture and language and urged them to become devoted citizens of the Emperor. Ryukyuans believe that life is the greatest of all gifts (Nuchi du Takara), and people who kill others or who kill  themselves could not be buried in their families' ancestral tombs. The glory of having the opportunity of killing (and being killed) in the name of the Emperor with the subsequent honour of being buried at the sacred Asakusa shrine in Tokyo, held little attraction for Ryukyuans. It would become a tragic irony then that the people who would perhaps suffer the most in the second world war, whether looked at in cold statistics or in terms of destruction of their cultural heritage, would be the peaceable and tolerant Okinawans. A people who suffered in the name of an Emperor that, until recently, had meant nothing to them.

The facts lay bare the consequence that it's strategic position in the Pacific has brought upon it's people. During the Battle of Okinawa over one third of the civilian population were killed ( 130,000 according to US Army figures) and throughout the battle it was the Okinawans who suffered the most. Historically treated as second class citizens by the Japanese, there were many cases where Okinawans were killed by their own troops for speaking their own language ( Ryukyuan language). The battle was won by the US forces and so to the victor go the spoils. Okinawa was placed under US control until reversion in 1972. The Okinawans continue to find themselves subject to a military occupation to this day, with the US military occupying some 20% of the main island and also 29 sea zones and some fifteen airspace areas. While Japan is obliged to host US military forces under the Japan-US Mutual Security Treaty (AMPO), the casual observer may wonder why 75% of the total American military in Japan is based in Okinawa which only accounts for a minute proportion (0.6%) of the Japanese landmass. The fate of Okinawa is invariably linked to Japan's national political scene and indeed Tokyo's continuing condescension towards Okinawa. No matter how much Tokyo promises to fully understand the feelings and wishes of Okinawans few believe the situation will change. Witness the 'handing back' of the Futenma helicopter base wherein Tokyo agreed to return the land on the condition that the base be relocated somewhere within Okinawa. How understanding! After centuries of having their best interests decided for them isn't it about time Okinawans were able to decide for themselves?

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