Charter Sailing Log

Arriving by 8-seater airplane from Ft.Lauderdale, flying around isolated and tall thunder clouds, Marsh Harbour and the surrounding turquoise colored waters looked just spectacular. The "crew" couldn't wait to see it from water level. The next 10 days chartering a Sunsail Kennex 38' cat would be our first true bareboat adventure. The crew totaled four : Isabelle, the 2 kids and myself. We chose the Abaco's cause it would be a relatively protected environment to try out bareboating, because Sunsail was offering a great 10-days for 7-days deal at this time of year, and because we expected the Abaco area to be much like the Berry's, with beautifull and deserted beaches and easy snorkeling. (for the kids of course).

We quickly arrived at the Sunsail base, got the debrief on the sailing area and the boat. Sunsail did a great job. A quick taxi ride to the grocery store, and we settled in the boat to wait out an early afternoon thunderstorm. By 2:00 PM, we coiled the ropes, and motored out through the harbour. Once outside the harbour and around Marsh Harbout point, with the sails up, we all finally relaxed. The waters throughout the Abaco's are relatively shallow (3' to 15') and clear. We could see the starfish resting on the sand bottom as we lazily made our east along the Great Ababco coast. Plan was to sail a few hours, then anchor early in the lee of Matt Lowe's Cay so we could relax, and get accustomed to the boat. Spirits were high all around.

That's when the fun started

By 9:00 PM, we were all lying on the trampoline, looking at the stars, and watching the light shows of distant thunder clouds. At 10:00 PM and in a few minutes, the wind shifted 180 degrees, and for the next 3-4 hours were caught in this raging thunderstorm, wind and rain, on a lee shore, with about a 4' chop (I wasn't too worried about the lack of protection since there was only about 4 miles of reach and less than 15' of water for the wind to kick up waves). Had a bearing on the dark silhouette of rock to starboard, and one tiny light from the only cabin in the bay to port, and could see that the anchor was still holding, but I started up one engine "just in case". Around 11:00, an offshore fishing boat joined us in the bay, anchored, and turned on some spotlights that gave us a better view of the rocky shore behind us ! Suffice it to say that by 1:30 AM, the storm had passed, everything was back to a beautifull starry night and we were finally able to sleep. (except for the kids, which had not woken up at all during the storm !)

I thought this was a pretty good way to spend our first night ever on a bareboat charter. Any idle thoughts about what was left back at the office, when you're in survival mode (OK, maybe that's a little exagerated), are quickly forgotten. On a positive note, it was another "notch" in our belt of experiences.

The next 9 days were a string of short sails in light winds (never more than 15 knots) and ideallic anchorages in shalow waters. At this time of year, at the beginning of the hurricane season, and when light wind conditions can be expected, there were not too many other sailboats. Some memorable spots which I would recommend include :

Great Guana Cay, Baker's Bay

Protected from the dominant east winds, with depths of 4' to 10' on sand bottom. Best feature is the beach on the Atlantic side. Deserted white beach that goes on for miles and miles ! Baker's Bay is used by cruiseships in the winter, so is probably crowded at those times, but in the summer, #1.

Great Guana Cay Beach Resort

Small resort on the water, that has a fresh water swimming pool, a shaded terrasse, and makes fantastic Great Guana Grabbers. From the resort, it's a short walk to the Guana Cay settlement, a small village with grocery, ice, and very importantly, the Two Sons Liquor Store. Another few minutes, and your on the Atlantic side, on another incredible white sand beach that stretches for miles and miles.

New Plymouth, Green Turtle Cay

A larger town, set around the bay, worth a visit, if only for provisions and a walk along the waterfront. When we were there, a 50 to 75 boat fleet travelling down the Abaco's, anchored here and the port was alive with activity. Made the anchorage a little crowded, so we retreated to Coco Bay, just a little north, for a quiet anchorage in 4' to 6' of clear water over a white sand bottom.

Hope Town

Given it was July, we were able to get a mooring inside after coming through a 50' wide channel that really protects the harbor. One of the best little ports I've seen. You have to do the trip to the lighthouse, and make your way to the beach on the Atlantic side. There are several waterfront restaurants around the harbour which we enjoyed.

Tahiti Beach

South of Hope Town at the southern end of Elbow Cay, Tahiti Beach is really a sandbar that uncovers at low tide, but what a sandbar. Spent most of the day there with the kids snorkeling and exploring with dinghy. The channel south, Lubber's Quarters Channel is real shallow. The boat had a 3'8 draft and the depth sounder showed a little less than 4'.

And I'm leaving out the Whale Cay passage, Treasure Cay Beach (7 mile beach), etc.

All in all a successfull first bareboat charter experience in an incredibly beautifull area of the Caribbean.

CeBe WebDesign November 12, 2007