The Road to Umpang

Umpang is accessible only by road from Mae Sot. It is situated in a long valley between two mountain ranges. One range separates Thailand from Burma; the other separates Umpang from the rest of Thailand. Umpang is, therefore, an isolated community and is visited only by the more determined travellers. A large highway, which will provide a more direct route between Thailand's Central Plains and Burma, is currently under construction. The highway will pass Umpang and work on this road proceeds despite Thailand's recent economic collapse. When completed it can be expected that Umpang will be open to the mass tourist market.

Mae Sot can be reach by a Thai Airways flight from Chiang Mai or Bangkok takes about one hour. Tour bus from Chiang Mai takes about 7 hours and from Bangkok about 8 hours.  A trip to Umpang will normally require a one night stopover in Mae Sot. An unremarkable, but pleasant enough, boarder town Mae Sot has a few Western restaurants and hotels largely catering to those passing through or to the the UN/Aid worker/foreign teacher types that work there. The most upmarket hotel would seem to be Central Hill Resort which is something of a misnomer because its not central, not in the hills and not a resort. Umpang is 160 km south of Mae Sot, a drive of some six hours. Transport by songteaw (pickup truck converted into a mini bus) runs daily from Mae Sot. Also guest houses in Umpang or hotels in Mae Sot can arrange transport as part of an organised trip

The road to Umpang is along trip; but for those that are not familiar   with the scenery it can be a joy in itself. The road tends run round the top of the mountains rather than along the valley floor. This presents the traveller with excellent view points. The photograph of the sunset (at right) gives some idea of what the visitor can expect. (More pictures of the road can be found here). A  proportion of the valley is cultivated and the route passes through some hilltribe villages. Side roads lead to a number of picturesque but unspectacular waterfalls. The Pajalearn waterfall (pictures here) is an example.

Umpang itself is now a tourist town catering mainly to groups of Thais of the jolly camper variety. However, it is not so long ago, about 15 years, that it was renowned as a centre of insurgency. Local guides thrill tour groups with tales of communist guerrillas hiding from Government troops in caves such as the Tat Kah Be cave. This is an unremarkable, three kilometre long, dry cave (quite possibly not fully explored). Close to Umpang, and easily accessible, the cave does have the attraction of being a candle lit walk for about half its length. At least it was candle lit when the author visited it,  who lit the candles remains a mystery (pictures here).

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