| CLIMB |
GRADE |
BETA |
RATING
(out of 3 stars) |
Unknown |
5.9 |
Unknown sport climb (in the supplement) that is left of the Peanut. Ended up going left of the bolt route, to a very nice crack (bring gear - I forgot). |
* |
Dancer |
5.7 |
Sport climb. |
* |
Jete |
5.8 |
Fun sport climb to the left of Dancer. |
** |
Cinnamon Slab |
5.6 |
Trad climb up a straight crack. Bring a couple of big pieces. |
* |
Peanut Brittle |
5.8 |
The book gave it an ‘R’ rating but that is no longer true- plenty o’ bolts. Fun sport climb |
** |
Pop goes the Nubbin |
5.10a |
To the right of 'Peanut Brittle'. Heady beginning leads to solid climbing. |
*** |
Hop on Pop |
5.7 |
Fun sport climb to the left of 'Peanut Brittle'. |
** |
Ginger Snap |
5.8 |
To the right of Ginger slab, this sport climb has an awkward belay. Also very short (3 bolts I think). Tough start. |
* |
SpiderMan |
5.7 |
3 pitch trad climb, can be done in two by skipping the first belay. Crux bulge, with the short 2nd pitch past the roof, fun and not too difficult. Beta: finish off the climb by going straight up past the roof to a clean vertical crack, instead of going left to a dirty gully. No chains on Spidey! Brian & Robin did a heinous walk in rock shoes to the right, passed on a couple of dodgy descent gullies then found some rap bolts. GREAT climb, BAD walk. |
** |
Bunny Face |
5.7 |
Runout first bolt, a fun and easy sport climb worth doing. |
** |
Benedictine Punk |
5.8 |
In the supplement. Fun and easy sport climb, in the shade so do this climb if it is getting hot. |
*** |
Helium Woman |
5.9 |
Robin's favourite climb. Go right to the arête after the 2nd bolt. |
*** |
Captain Zenolith |
5.10a |
Tough 10a sport, go left to the arête after the 1st bolt. |
** |
Five Gallon Buckets |
5.8 |
In the supplement. Feels more like 5.7, huge holds and huecos. |
* |
Wherever I May Roam |
5.9 |
Best multipitch climb of the trip - hand's down. Go over Asterisk Pass, go left along the face. There is a big, mostly detached pillar that goes down below the face, the trail drops down here. The 5 pitches are rated 5.8, 5.9, 5.9, 5.9, 5.8. All of the pitches are good, #3 & 4 are very exciting. P1 starts left of a crack at the bottom of the pillar and follows a bolt line up the pillar. There are anchor bolts at the top of the pillar and I belayed P2 from these bolts, a good 20’ away from the start of P2. P2 starts by stepping over the chimney onto the face. WARNING: P3 has a fork in the bolt line. Go left! After that it was straight-forward. You rap off the top into a big gully, walk right (climber’s right, looking at the face you just rapped down) 40’-50’ and start rapping. 60 m rope REQUIRED! There are a couple of rap anchors in a few places. |
*** |
Don’t Tread On Me |
5.8 |
Very fun and easy sport just left of Snake Rock. |
** |
Lion’s Jaw |
5.8 |
Amazing trad climb, look for Robin's #5 nut, I left it behind ;) |
** |
Cosmos |
5.10a |
My favourite single pitch climb of the trip. Beautiful sport face climb, the crux is near the top. |
*** |
Out of Harm's Way |
5.8 |
Great mixed climb, crack requires some trad pro, the rest is a fun sport climb. |
** |
Iguanas on Elm St. |
5.10b |
We labeled this as "The Project". It’s rated a .B, but by most accounts it’s a lot harder. I lost all my energy getting the 1st 3 bolts (the first one is a doosy). Out of energy, I passed the baton to Robin, who cooly worked through the 4th and 5th bolts. The crux was hard- just keep going straight up the bolt line on small holds. |
** |
The Outsiders |
5.7 |
Robin climbed this and gave good reviews. Fun sport climb to the right of "Five Gallon Buckets" |
** |
