The following two articles were found in the in-flight magazine of Mexicana Airlines, November 1992

The Pre-Hispanic Netherworld
By Juan Carlos Palacios

The cultures of ancient Mexico had their own concept of the universe: life and death closely linked to every aspect of social life: underlying mysticism in the daily life of the Indian: belief in the transmigration of souls, in the constant struggle between good and evil and in the spirit of service.

The ancient Indians did not fear death itself, but rather the manner of dying. It was a great honor to die in battle, or on the téchtal (sacrificial stone) or, in the case of women, in childbirth. Consequently, the transit to Mictlán, the netherworld, was avoided. Otherwise, souls had to undergo a series of ordeals during the four years immediately after their death.

The netherworld comprised complex levels of transition and was divided into nine strata that the deceased had to pass through before reaching the final resting place.

Belief in another world beyond terrestrial life alleviated the natural sense of anguish and terror. It originated the custom of honoring the dead by offering them the earthly pleasures they enjoyed during their lifetime: a favorite delicacy or a bottle of mescal.

"The remains of the corpse were burned: the ashes were kept with a jade stone in an urn, then buried in a given room of the house. Offerings were made to the departed 80 days after the death and each year during the four-year duration of the soul’s voyage beyond the grave. After that time these offerings ceased." (El pueblo del sol, Antonio Caso, Fondo de Cultura Económica, 1978)

Mexico’s cultural life was enriched by its conversion to Christianity: religious rituals and oral traditions syncretized, but ancient beliefs such as the Day of the Dead, still observed to this day, resurfaced.

A unique form of local cuisine also developed from this Euro-American mixture. The new continent contributed a series of spices heretofore unknown to the old continent, along with innovative gastronomic delights: sesame seeds on baked bread, brown sugar for candied pumpkins, the extensive variety of mole sauces and chocolate, to mention only a few.

On the 2^nd of November, the Day of the Dead, the offerings provided by each family to their deceased relatives include some of the items mentioned above. They consist of a decorated altar with photographs of the departed, votive candles, rosaries, images of saints and, of course, food, which must be kept cold without altering its flavor so that the family can consume it later.

Day of the Dead
By Gonzalo Vélez

Translated by Elena C. Murray
Fotos de Leticia Arriaga

By early afternoon, people start streaming into the cemetery: the women enveloped in the characteristic navy blue rebozo of the region. The graveyard will soon be bursting with life: the families decorate the tombs with flowers and candles and deposit the foodstuffs they bring as offerings on the hard cement graves.

It is the night of the 1^st to the 2^nd of November in Tzintzuntzan, Michoacán. The ceremonies form part of what is generically known as the Day of the Dead, which corresponds to All Saints and All Souls Day on the Roman Catholic calendar.

The tradition of the Day of the Dead is commemorated in over 60 communities in the area of Lake Pátzcuaro. The most impressive celebrations are held in the island of Janitzio and, above all, in the village of Tzintzuntzan, which in the Tarascan language means "place of the hummingbirds."

This ritual combines aspects from both Catholic and pagan traditions, but very little is known regarding the latter. Although the Spanish chroniclers who wrote about the Conquest referred to the pre-Hispanic rituals for the dead, they did not go into great detail. Apparently, prior to the arrival of the Spaniards, the indigenous groups believed the soul was immortal and moved on to another place after physical death. The deceased’s relatives had to keep in contact with the soul, so as not to alter the balance of cosmic forces.

In Tzintzuntzan on the Day of the Dead, cemeteries are transformed into a colorful, luxuriant garden, with a predominance of the bright yellow zempaxúchitl (Taguetes erecta). The color of the zempaxúchitl, that blooms in November, is closely identified with these particular holidays since, according to Aztec mythology, yellow is associated with the kingdom of the dead. The inhabitants of the region weave wreaths of zempaxúchitl and other flowers into patterns or figugres such as the Blessed Virgin or the village’s patron saint. These wreaths, regarded as the principal element of the offering itself, are then used to decorate the churches and the graves. The offerings also often include yellow fruit such as bananas, oranges or tangerines, loaves of bread, sugar skulls and other figurines, candles and flowers galore.

At night, upon entering the cemeteries, one is dazzled by the light. The entire graveyard glows with the profusion of candles placed on the graves. The smoke from the candles and the bonfires lit by some visitors in order to keep warm have created a peculiar, hazy atmosphere, completely devoid of the grim connotations usually associated with death. The inhabitants of the neighboring villages flock to the cemetery as blithely as if they were attending a family dinner. "We came to accompany our dear departed," said one old Indian woman. "My brother and I made the offering between the two of us, and we usually keep vigil all night," she added with a smile.

Tzintzuntzan was once a major Indian settlement, as can be observed by Las Yácatas archaeological site. Although the customs in every village cemetery in this region are very similar – as are the decorations of the graves – the "Day of the Dead" rituals are especially picturesque in Tzintzuntzan, where the cemetery is fairly large. Each year, the town council awards a prize to the family who has presented the best offering, which encourages everyone to outdo each other in the design and preparation of wreaths and altars.

A stroll among the graves produces an indescribable sensation, mostly of amazement. The spectacular decorations and the eerie candlelight transport you to another world. Some families chat around a bonfire drinking hot punch and eating fruit or a regional dish.

The next day, more families come to the cemetery. Candlelight gives way to sunlight, when the sweet-smelling flowers have a chance to show off their bright colors. It is, for all the world, just like a community picnic. When the day is done, the families gather up the offerings and return home, leaving the flowers and remnants of wax dripping on the graves. Silence descends once again on the cemetery until next year’s Day of the Dead festivities.