Brissago

Lago Maggiore

Switzerland

Our trip was ill-fated from the outset. We had arranged that J would pick me up from work at 4:30 pm and we'd drive to Mondsee near Salzburg. Unfortunately I was persuaded by my colleague to take a lift with him and wait for J by the side of the road. To cut a long story short we missed each other and by the time I'd walked back to my workplace J had been and gone. Luckily a couple of the guys were unusually late in leaving and I phoned her on a mobile. She came back and we left about 1 1/2 hours late.

We got to Mondsee and the youth hostel at about 9pm. (The bunk bed mattresses & pillows were pretty hard - only to be expected I suppose!)

We picked up a few things at the local supermarket. While I waited in the car for J I started to think about what would happen to our trip if something went wrong with the car. Five minutes later we were in a lay-by looking at a large ragged hole in the back bumper with soot scattered everywhere including in the boot. The part of the exhaust that directs the hot gases away from the car had fallen off and what was left of the exhaust was pointed directly at the bumper.

Luckily J is a member of the ÖAMTC the Austrian automobile association and we checked in with them just before we reached the German border. They told us if we'd driven much further the car might have burst into flames! Anyhow, they welded a piece of piping to the exhaust so we could continue - it cost us maybe an hour or so of daylight but no cost for the repair. ..

Our WEATHER troubles started just outside St. Moritz. The road unexpectedly started to wind sharply upwards and that's when the snow started. Soon we were in almost white-out conditions with a bank of solid snow about 10 feet high on the left side of the road and precipitous mountains on the other with wide swathes of disturbed snow showing where the latest avalanche had been! The snow started falling really heavily and we could only just make out the road, everything else was pure white. Thankfully the temperature must have been only a few degrees below freezing and the road stayed ice-free. Just as well as the curves were tortuous as we made our way over the Julier pass

The weather continued to be terrible as we arrived at the San Bernardino Tunnel (6.5 km long). We got onto the motorway near San Bernardino and I breathed a sigh of relief. Just then J spotted a sign for the Via Mala (she knows of this little valley from some film). Suddenly we were in another world. If you can imagine the scene - rain falling torrentially and we are in this dark majestic place - this tiny valley with cliffs soaring grey vertically above us for maybe 150 feet and looking over the guard rail at a precipice another 150 feet of titanic broken stone! A stream ran vertically down the awesome cliff and the cliff top was ragged like witches teeth! (I couldn't see well in the terrible conditions but what I though were ragged rocks were actually pine trees perched right at the top of the cliff.) An amazing place, especially in that hellish weather and dark wildness of nature. It looked like a vision of hell.

We didn't linger long as the sleet was torrential (& v. cold) - after getting lost we found our way to the motorway and raced south towards Switzerland and hopefully warm sunshine. It was a race against time as the light faded. We kept looking for blue skies ahead of us and at one point I swear I did see them. Eventually the sleet and snow were left behind and we got safely to Lago Maggiore just as night fell. The sky looked clear and things looked good for the next day.

Lubica, J's friend, had sent us a diagram so we could find her house that included looking for 4 palm trees but as there were innumerable groups of palms trees and the road up the hillside by the lake was a maze of little one way streets we got hopelessly lost. An hour or so of looking later we chanced upon it. Our happiness turned to despair as we found it all locked and boarded up and in complete darkness. It was 10pm and we had no idea where we could spend the night or even if Lubica would be here in the morning and we'd have to go home. Luckily I found Lubica's note in the dark - she was out with a meal with neighbours (she hadn't known on exactly which day we'd arrive). So, we had arrived - finally and safely - only our nerves hadn't quite survived the trip!

That's when the real bad luck with the weather started. The next day (Sunday) we were able to take a stroll round the houses on the hillside nearby but the heavy rain now and then kept us darting for cover and the cold cold wind was chilling us to the bone. We made a short trip to nearby Ascona but the cold especially made it very uncomfortable to be outside. We eventually had cappuccinos in a promenade café and made the best of things..

The rain that day was nothing compared to what was to come. For the next two days it never stopped once. The view from the house is spectacular with the lake stretching out in either direction with mountains covered by tiny villages and houses directly opposite. But in this weather the view was spectacularly grey with vast grey clouds from horizon to horizon and the surface of the lake only a shade lighter in colour. Huge lighter grey clouds moved slowly over the villages opposite obscuring almost everything. I didn't leave the house in two days - there was no point (J & Lubica went to the local shops and straight back). It was miserable wet & cold. If it had only been wet that would have been bearable - but the bone-chilling cold made things miserable.

The region hadn't had rain for 4 months previously - Lubica had been told that she wouldn't be able to use her outdoor pool that summer because the water table was so low. I don't think there will be much problem now!

We've been unlucky to get weather that makes even Scotland at its worse seem just slightly damp! As I look out the window from where I'm sitting all I see is grey. The lake surface, the land across the water, the vast cloud over the villages and the endless grey clouds stretching in every direction above. And the puddles outside the French windows plopping with endless raindrops. It's strange to be surrounded by palms, azaleas, rhododendrons, huge camellia bushes full of blooms, magnolia in flower - all so lovely, yet the grey is all pervasive.

It is an ambition fulfilled though to be staying in one of these hillside homes. Ever since I saw them clinging to the hillsides at Lake Como I've always wondered what it would be like to stay in one. Trying to imagine the view with sunshine and blue skies I?d say it more than lives up to expectations. The view is simply fantastic. The peace is almost total - just the sound of birds chirping in the palms?

Switzerland is quite expensive. We've found that a lot of items are about double the price we would pay in Austria. Dining in a nice restaurant is pretty much out of the question without a bank loan!

So, we live in hope of one day of good weather and try to make the best of things while rain falls endlessly from dawn to dusk... Lubica is an excellent cook and last night we also had a few glasses of an excellent Chianti before reading about all the beautiful places we could visit if the weather permits. There are about 5 wonderful valleys nearby). Hopefully we will get good weather on Thursday as promised by the TV weather report. Whether we'll take a cruise down the lake to Stresa or drive through one of the valleys remains up in the air (and in the clouds!)

Wednesday

We woke about 10 today to sunshine!!! So we'll make a trip down the side of the lake and then inland along a small winding road to Centovalli (One hundred valleys).

Later: The weather stayed fine - a few clouds but mostly blue sky - something we havn't seen a trace of lately! We wound up and down various hills and strolled around some beautiful little towns - back up in the remote hills the old women still wear the traditional costumes with wide petticoated skirts and black widows peaks. The trees on the hillsides were quite bare and brown but the landscape had plenty of interesting features including torrential streams falling down the hillsides by the road and the greeny-blue rivers. Tomorrow we'll take the boat down the lake to Isola Bella and on to Stresa in Italy. The ticket allows you to island hop down the lake if you want to. I remember Isola Bella from when I was here about 15 years ago - beautiful gardens and park lands with peacocks meandering/strolling/strutting or whatever it is that they do! The weather forecast on Swiss television tonight looked promising for tomorrow, Friday and Saturday - so it looks like our luck may have turned...

Thursday

Beautiful day. Up at 7:30 to have breakfast and get down to catch the boat at 10. (2 women - it takes that long!

Later: we had a great day today - we bypassed Isola Pescatori even though it looked fascinating with it's tiny fishermen's houses and boats because we thought we should spend more time looking round the palace and grounds at Bella. It was a mistake - it was lunch hour when we got there and the it was all closed - plus we were prisoners in the tourist-hell part - full of shops and crowded! Eventually though we got in and it was beautiful. An interesting palace, but the gardens are the main event, with white peacocks here and there and stunning views of the lake and lake shore all around. I was responsible for us missing the boat to Stresa so we didn't get to see it - it's only 10 minutes away. So, we caught the last boat home enjoying the evening sunshine... Back home we had another great meal cooked by Lubica - pasta with basil, olive oil plus we ground our own parmesan cheese - delicious, I've seldom enjoyed a meal more...

J and I have just got back in from the garden - the almost full moon is directly opposite and is laying a silvery path right across the lake to our feet - beautiful...

Tomorrow Valle Maggia and the village of Bosco Gurin - the only German speaking village in Ticino (& the highest!)

Easter Friday

We came across some climbers practising from a bridge over an amazing canyon of green rapids tumbling through massive boulders and stopped for a break and to take a walk around. As we moved closer to our turnoff we encountered fewer and fewer houses and the atmosphere became more and more tranquil. Snow-capped mountains were on either side as we turned off into a group of tiny little stone farmhouses among little vineyards. Then the tortuous climb up the mountain-side began with every bend a hair-pin. We passed many beautiful little villages and incredible views overlooking the valley below and the peaks in the distance. Bosco Gurin lies above the snow-line so when we got there we found the village still in a Winter mood with snow everywhere. The village is very different from the other villages in Ticino - apart from being the only one to be German speaking it has also had a separate evolution due to its being cut off so high in the mountains. The oldest buildings are of enormous dark brown logs. Each house has a little opening built into it - if someone in the house died this was opened to let their spirit go. The museum which is in one of the 400 year old houses brings to life the customs and artefacts of that time and of course of the people and how they coped with such a harsh environment. After the museum we had a good look round before making our leisurely way back to Locarno where we had a stroll along the beautiful promenade before having a cappuccino at the lakeside. Then back to Brissago as night fell. Tomorrow also promises to be hot - our last full day. No moon tonight - but the sky is full of stars...

Saturday

We made a trip in the car high high up above where we're staying - again hair-pin bends for most of the way. At the top (1000m) we found a field with a bench overlooking the lake spread out before us - we seemed to be almost up in the clouds...

Back down for a quick snack then back on the lakeside road over to Italy again, stopping at Cannobio to buy a few bottles of wine and then on to Intra - a really interesting town - many young people looking very good, very Italian. And amazing clothes shops, many designer labels - but not SO expensive. Had a beautiful cherry & real cream ice cream at a lakeside restaurant. Then a walk round the shops taking in the life of the town - it's a vibrant little place!

Back home for a late meal at 9pm before an early bed to be ready for the first day of the two day drive back to Austria, taking a look at tiny Lichtenstein on the way...

We made a leisurely drive back up through Ticino and into the canton of Graubünden, staying off the main roads and enjoying the amazing air and wonderful forest landscapes. We called in again at the Via Mala - this time it looked completely different. In the sunshine it looked almost tame, but still impressive. If we'd had any money left we would have made the trek down to the valley floor - it looked like at least 150 feet down - everything is massive in the Via Mala - an incredible place.

Just before we got to Lichtenstein we came through the most beautiful neck of the woods around the towns of Malans, Mayenfeld and Jenins. The landscapes and natural beauty there is breathtaking. Exquisite. It was in this region that the story of Heidi by Johanna Spyri was set.

There is no formal border into Lichtenstein. We saw a sign by the side of the road and suddenly we were there. We had various expectations of the country. That it would be so pretty, filled with beautiful houses and with an aura of wealth about it. We found exactly the reverse! The countryside of Lichtenstein is perhaps pretty but the capital, Vaduz, is sougly. It was almost as if we had been transported to some eastern european town ravaged at the hands of communist architects. The buildings in the town centre are such awful featureless blocks. But it's hard to know where to start. It's hard to believe but everything that could be done wrong had been. It looked like the town had been designed by people zero aesthetic sense. And everything seemed to have been done in the cheapest possible way. There was no charm whatsoever in the town. Totally awful. Anyone who thinks that the State should receive the minimum in taxes and the people pay the minimum in taxes should come to Vaduz. They will change their minds - fast.

It took only about 30 minutes to travel through the whole of Lichtenstein. We did see one or two quite nice houses on the outskirts of Vaduz - but still more real eyesores. It's still a mystery to me why the people there seem to be so out of touch. Unbelievabe...

Once over the border into Austria we immediately reached Feldkirch in the region Vorarlberg. We found the hostel - an amazing 600 year old building. It had been through at least three epidemics of the Black Death in its history as well as surviving the thirty year war. In its history it had been a hostel several times. During the Black Death if someone in a family had been infected they were taken from their home to the graveyard where they had to climb into a grave. The priest sprinkled earth onto them three times then they were led to the hostel. They were considered dead by their family from that time until their actual death. They were not allowed to go to the shops in the town or to the well. If they did go out they had to wear gloves and carry a clapper device to warn people of their approach. Perhaps it's just as well we didn't read the history until the morning! Monday Our last day of travel - all the way across Austria from west to East. More amazing scenery. And a detour up to the affluent towns of Zür and Lech where the rich and famous go to ski. Again we were back in winter with high snowdrifts and constantly falling snow. Lech is a mass of hotels, very beautiful hotels, but hotels nonetheless... The town ahead, Warth, was closed and unreachable due to the snow. Another world up there. There is snow is on the ground eight months of the year....

Back down to springtime and the long journey to Vienna. All the Germans were going home after the Easter holidays. Thankfully in the opposite direction! Though there were so many of them that mostly they weren't "going" anywhere... I'm not sure what they reminded me of most - Lemmings or Locusts... A bit of both... We came to Innsbruck and made a stop and had a wonderful walk through this beautiful city. We also had a look around the Hofkirche and its stunning, slightly larger than life, statues of the great and good of Medeaeval times. Knights, Kings, Princes and Princesses they were all there all in amazing detail right down to the patterns on their gowns and armour... One particular knight had a rather prominent codpiece which people had obviously been rubbing for the past 100 years or so. It was hard to miss as the statue was almost black whereas this particular portion was a burnished orange! Onward to the region around Salzburg, the Salzkammergut. Wonderful greens of nature. And we had come at the right time - all the white cherry blossoms were at their peak. Salzkammergut is about as close to perfection in nature as I have seen. We'll be back. We have a long weekend booked up later this summer. So, finally back in Vienna. Weary but happy with the trip. 2,200 km in all. We had experienced Spring, Summer and Winter all in one short holiday. Plenty to dream about 'till next time....