surf your first time, you'll have to
practice getting to your feet on
the ground.
| STEP 2: GET INTO
SHAPE
(IF YOU AREN'T ALREADY) |
| Before going in the
ocean to try and
surf your first time, you'll have to practice getting to your feet on the ground. |
|
| The object is to land
with your gravity centered over your imaginary board. Don't let either
foot have more weight on it when you land. Immediately after you've landed
on your feet, lean forward, which helps you drop into the wave. Longboarders
always have lots of hair,
so if you're a guy, grow a beard; if you're a girl, grow your armpit hair as long as you can. The other thing you'll have to do is exercise. Find a community pool. They're usually about $1 a swim, much cheaper and less annoying than fancy health clubs. Swim laps for an hour, do 30 sit-ups, and 25-50 push ups every day for three weeks.
|
If
you're a vegetarian, forget about that. You'll have to eat a lot of meat
and other good foods including: steaks, chickens, fish, pork, broccoli,
carrots, corn, and whiskey. It's also advised to drink three or four gallons
of ocean water per day during this period to prepare yourself for the pain
you will encounter. The first several times you paddle out, you'll be swallowing
a lot of water when you