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Subject: Oil Stains on concrete driveway
bilsd@... asked this question on 2/12/2000:
What is the best way to remove motor oil stains from my concrete driveway?
I have tried two cleaners from the Home Depot that were for concrete, but still
have the stain. A friend told me I could use sulfuric acid mixed with water, but
I'm not sure I want to. What do you think?
RobDecker gave this response on 2/14/2000:
It is very hard if not impossible to instantly remove an oil stain completely
with out damaging the concrete, making a white spot, or bigger stain. Having
said that, let me explain.
There are several ways to remove oil stains
from concrete. One includes renting the equipment or hiring someone to steam
or power wash the concrete with a high pressure water sprayer mixed with degreaser
or solvent injection. I’m guessing this might be a bit more expense or trouble
than necessary in this case especially if the stains are in a small area.
Here
is the method I use:
First absorb all you can with a dry
sweep. The absorbent can be common cornstarch, corn meal, or kitty litter. Pour
enough on the stained area to completely cover the concrete. Mix it back and
forth over the stain with a broom and leave it to “absorb” for about 15-30 minutes.
Sweep-up and dispose of the absorbent.
Secondly, spray the area
with a good degreaser. I like the old “409” for this but you can use the purple
stuff or some other degreaser. Let it stand for a couple of minutes and spay
or mop it off with water. Your goal is to make the stain lighter. Repeat this
process if the stain is still not light enough.
Third, and if necessary,
use a solvent based cleaner. Spray or mop it on and wash it off with water
after a few minutes. Do not let it dry before you wash it off or you will have
a new and larger stain.
This usually will make the stain light enough for
time, wear, and rain to make it unnoticeable. (This is one of the few if only
advantage of acid-rain in that it really does remove stains and brighten concrete)
No on acids:
Your friend that recommended acid was probably thinking of “Muriatic Acid”
that brick masons sometimes use to remove unwanted mortar on brick and rock. I
don’t recommend it because that’s what it does - removes. In the case of concrete,
it actually removes a layer and weakens the remaining concrete in that spot.
Think of it as removing the glue in the cement that holds the sand together.
The concrete below that spot must now be periodically sealed with a concrete sealer
to prevent moisture damage and even just a little foot traffic can eventual
wear in a depressed area or hole.
Add to that the danger of handling
Muriatic Acid and I hope have persuaded you not to try it. If for some reason
I have not, PLEASE note the following:
1. Gloves and goggles
are a necessity (eye damage is irreversible).
2. Brick masons
mix the formula strong at one part acid to ten parts water to disintegrate
the mortar. They presoak the area and immediately flood that area with water after
cleaning with the acid mix.
3. ALWAYS pour acid into water. The reverse can cause a thermal gas bubble or “Pop” that showers you with
acid.
Is that enough?
Why not use the degreaser, solvent,and let
the “acid rain” eventually bleach a LIGHT stain away and you have a nice day
and life?
Hope this helps,
Rob Decker
Subject: removing paint from brick
theskwerls asked this question on 2/14/2000:
Is there any way to remove latex paint from interior brick? The brick
has a rough surface. I tried Peel Away (a Sherwin Williams product) but it got
stuck in the thousands of small crevices in the brick and did not remove any
paint. I've tried a "paste" remover, with zero results, and the fumes were obnoxious.
Any ideas? Thanks!
RobDecker answered the question on 2/15/00:
Stripping paint from brick is a trial and error process. Since it sounds like
you're already in that process, let me add a couple more trials.
I
am not familiar with Peel Away, but I have had some luck with Potassium Hydroxide-based
strippers. Get ready to read some more stripper labels.
Also
a heat gun and putty knife will some times work.(Not in conjunction with the
stripper)
One more thing you might consider, since you say the brick
has a rough surface, is that possibly the brick was sandblasted before. If
so, it’s possible the paint was mistakenly used as a sealer. Let me explain:
Due
to the firing process when the bricks were made, the outside of the
brick is the hardest part of the brick. Sand blasting weakens this “shell” and
it is usually a good idea to use a masonry sealer to prevent moister damage.
Many times in the past, some people painted the brick after sandblasting to seal
and hide the resulting rough face of the brick. Painting brick is almost always
a mistake. In addition to being difficult to remove, paint unlike a masonry
sealer, which allows some breathing, traps moister inside the brick and mortar
and damages both.
The point is, after you finally get all the paint off,
it would probably be a good idea to apply a masonry sealer.
Hope this
helps.
Rob Decker
Subject: concrete block foundation problem
Anonymous asked this question on 2/20/2000:
I have clay soil and in the winter it expands and pushes in the walls. I previously
dug out approximately 3' below grade, put in french drain and refilled
with gravel. This has not helped. What should I do?
RobDecker answered the question on 2/22/00:
I recently worked on a project in which the opposite had occurred; the La Nina
rains had undermined the home’s raised foundation causing one side of the house
to drop down approximately one foot. The homeowner’s policy would not cover
the repairs because they determined it was flood damage and the owner had not
taken out the flood rider. (the home is on high ground)
The homeowner,
retired, a widow, and on a fixed income, was suddenly faced with a home that
was less than livable and unable to take out a second on the mortgage because
the damage created a huge devaluation of the home. The story has a happy ending
in that she was able to borrow enough from friends to have the repair work done,
the home reappraised above the old value, and is currently taking out a second
to pay back her friends.
I was not involved in all the hard stuff,
(they had to jack up the home with planks like a housemover would do, excavate
for future drainage and pour in quite a bit of concrete (truckloads). When
they were done I came in for five days on wood frameing the damaged area’s per
the engineer’s report. I‘m sorry to be so long-winded, but I think your problem’s
solution is probably going to start the same as her’s.
It’s not cheap,
but I think it would be smart to have an engineer, (or two) that specialize in
foundations, come in and give you his report. Whether you have the work done or
not is another matter. Maybe you can do the work yourself. But I think on foundations,
it is very important that you get expert-solutions.
I hope you write
back with what happens.
Sincerely,
RobDecker
Subject: condensation between window panes
crs7298@... asked this question on 2/29/2000:
Hi I have a question regarding windows.I just moved into a house with double
pane windows that tilt in for easier cleaning.Well the problem is that a couple
of them have really bad condensation in between the panes.It is so bad that
it is white looking and you can't hardly see through them at all.Is there any way
to fix this or at least help it a little without having to replace the whole
windows? It is really ugly to try to look out of.Also does this mean that these
particular windows are not as energy efficient due to the seal being broke (or
whatever caused the condensation buildup).Thank you in advance for your help.
Crystal
RobDecker answered the question on 3/1/00:
Hi Crystal,
The “seal” on your double pane window has failed letting
in air, which in turn allows condensation. Constant wetting and drying of
glass causes the alkali in glass to raise to the surface, sometimes refered to
as alkali “scumming”, where it eventually forms a white cloudy film.
On
areas that are inaccessible to cleaning, such as between panes of a duel glazed
window, it will continue until you can no longer see through the window.
When it becomes intolerable, you’ll have to replace the window. (The energy efficiency
is reduced to that of a single-paned window.) When you decide to have it
replaced, get 3-4 estimates. I have found the same window to vary 100% in price.
On the good side, the window you buy to replace it with will be
far superior. Duel glazed windows were either vacuum sealed or the air cavity
hermetically sealed in the 60’s with limited success. In the 70’s air was replaced
with various gases. The experiments with gases were met with some failures
due to the bowing out or in of the panes because of varying cavity pressures. (Cavity
pressure varied due to barometric pressure changes on the outside and gas
expansion and contraction from solar heat inside.) The bowing in and out of the
glass rarely broke the glass, but lead to early seal failure.
A
more stable gas filler, solar and UV treatments, and superior sealing agents, make
todays insulated windows a good buy. Add to that the use of vinyl and PVC building
materials in the window and the life-time warranty many manufactures are
offering mean it should be a one-time purchase. Remember to "shop" the price.
Hope
that helps,
RobDecker
Subject: chimney problem
kmsteel asked this question on 2/28/2000:
We have a metal chimney that was installed 4 or 5 years ago when we
had our furnace installed. The top of it rusted and part of it collapsed. The people
who installed it have said they would replace it - it is guaranteed for 10
years.
My question is should I bother to do this or have a different
type of chimney installed?
RobDecker answered the question on 3/1/00:
Yes, have them replace it. If it only lasts another 4-5 years then you can
decide if you should try another type. Ask your installer about the pros and cons
along with the prices of other chimneys. But wait until your guarantee is up
and the chimney fails again before making any decisions. Maybe it was a fluke.
Good
Luck,
RobDecker
Subject: cracks in walls
siklein asked this question on 3/1/2000:
I am looking to buy a resale townhouse. The house I am considering (built
1988) has vertical cracks that run down the corner where two walls meet.
These cracks appear on almost every corner in the house (where the walls
meet).
Can you take a stab why this might happen, and should I consider
a deduction on the purchase price?
Steve
RobDecker answered the question on 3/4/00:
Hi Steve
There are more than several possible reasons or cracks
in the walls at the corner. Some fairly harmless reasons might be minor settling,
small earthquake tremblers, or possibly a severe heat (or cold) exposure
while the townhouse was being built. In drywall construction, the joint compound
is applied the thickest at the corners and is the part of the wall that is
the least forgiving to slight movement. Some minor settling is normal in
all house construction and some hairline or small cracks may not be a big reason
for concern.
On the other hand, since the cracks are so consistent
throughout the house, and may indicate a more serious problem, I would suggest
hiring a licensed house inspector and get a “pre-purchase inspection" with his/her
recommendations before making any bonafide offer on the property. You
can expect to pay $200.-400. for the inspection and you can expect to find some
other things wrong or that need attention on the property that would warrant
asking for a reduction in the purchase price. Whether you get the reduction
or not, home inspections are well worth the money.
Good luck!
RobDecker
Pocket doors
ducky_ont asked this question on 3/13/2000:
hi rob
we are trying to find a door for our remodelled bedroom. the problem
is there isn't a whole lot of room for a door to swing open, in or out. we
thought of bifolds, but they really don't offer much as a sound bearer, do they??
next we thought of the door in the wall idea, but i'm wondering if these have
many problems with falling off their tracks? and if so, what do you have to
do to fix them, tear out the wall again??
if you know of any other ideas
we would greatly appreciate hearing from you!
thanks for your time
ducky
RobDecker gave this response on 3/16/2000:
Hi ducky
I think you may be on the right track with pocket doors . . .
(sorry, I couldn’t resist) . . . While not as soundproof as a regular solid-core
swing-open door, a pocket door can be a close second. The new pocket doors tower
above their ancestors in advantages. Though easy to install in new construction,
they can get a little sticky in retro-fits. Please let me explain:
I
think you could make a pocket door nearly as quite as swing door by duplicating
2 or 3 factors. To make a door quieter:
1. Choose a solid-core door
as opposed to a hollow-core door. In solid cores, hardboard covering a particleboard
“core” is most common, cheapest (in solid core), and by coincidence, one
of the best at noise cancellation.
2. Choose a thicker door. (1-1/2” is
common, go around 1-3/4”, 2” and above - too heavy)
3. Have the bottom of
the door slightly touching carpet or other insulating type threshold.
4.
Have close-fitting doorstop.
When choosing a pocket door, do the
same on 1, 2, and 3.
Pocket doors have made many improvements over
the years. Among the best features to look for are:
1. Three-wheel configurations
(two on one side and one on the other side) replacing single wheels (all
on one side) which eliminates binding.
2. Quick release mechanisms that
release the door from the rollers, meaning you can remove the door anytime for
cleaning, painting, etc.
3. Key-hole slots track systems for easy track
removal - anytime.
4. Lifetime warranties.
Installing a pocket
door in new construction is fairly easy. You must make sure the header and adjoining
studs are level. That’s something you should do for any door but particularly
important to pocket doors since you don’t shim them as with a regular door
frame. The pocket door frame and cage are screwed directly to and supported by
the header and flanking studs. Cost is low for the pocket door itself, (door,
frame, and cage $70.-$80.) but other costs can run substantially higher in retrofit.
That’s because you must remove the wall for more than double the width of
the finished pocket door size opening (this means six to seven feet), you must
move any wiring or plumbing in that area, and you must “head out” (install a header)
over that entire wall opening. Don’t let this discouraged you though, I’ve
installed plenty of pocket doors in existing homes with beautiful results!
Hope
this helps,
RobDecker
this helps a great deal, thanks for your detailed information and
expertise!
remove oil stains from cement
pjahnke@... asked this question on 3/15/2000:
What is the best way to clean oil stains from a cement driveway?
RobDecker gave this response on 3/16/2000:
Hello,
It is very hard if not impossible to instantly remove an oil stain
completely with out damaging the concrete, making a white spot, or bigger stain.
Having said that, let me explain.
There are several ways to remove
oil stains from concrete. One includes renting the equipment or hiring someone
to steam or power wash the concrete with a high pressure water sprayer mixed
with degreaser or solvent injection. I’m guessing this might be a bit more expense
or trouble than necessary in your case especially if the stains are in a
small area.
Here is the method I use:
First absorb all you can with
a dry sweep. The absorbent can be common cornstarch, corn meal, or kitty litter.
Pour enough on the stained area to completely cover the concrete. Mix it back
and forth over the stain with a broom and leave it to “absorb” for about 15-30
minutes. Sweep-up and dispose of the absorbent.
Secondly, spray the area
with a good degreaser. I like the old “409” for this but you can use the purple
stuff or some other degreaser. Let it stand for a couple of minutes and spay
or mop it off with water. Your goal is to make the stain lighter. Repeat this process
if the stain is still not light enough.
Third and if necessary, use
a solvent based cleaner. Spray or mop it on and wash off with water after a few
minutes. Do not let it dry or you will have a new and larger stain.
This
usually will make the stain light enough for time, wear, and rain to make it unnoticeable.
(This is one of the few if only advantage of acid-rain in that it
really does remove stains and brighten concrete!)
Hope this helps,
RobDecker
removing odar from tennis shoes / sandals
soujirou asked this question on 3/17/2000:
ok i have a pair of teva sandals here.
the one with the veri tough soles
made of some synthetic stuff.
recently, i have been using them alot.
n
they start to smell.
any suggestion on removing the odor?
thanks.
RobDecker gave this response on 3/19/2000:
Hello,
Here's a method that works on tennis shoes - should work on your
sandals:
1. Find a container (plastic wash pan) that your sandals will fit
in. (a washing machine if nothing else)
2. Put in 1/2 cup of borax.
3.
add 1/8-1/4 cup of a citric acid cleaner. I like Nature's Orange, but you
can use that lemon scented cleaner. Check to see that it contains citric acid.
Not the orange pumice hand cleaners (no citric acid). If you get in a pinch, add
the squeezed juice of a couple of lemons.
4. Add enough warm water to cover
the sandals in the container and mix the solution.
5. Add the sandals,
weigh them down with something that won't be damaged by the solution, and let
them soak for about 2-3 hours.
Hope this helps,
Rob Decker
floor hump
gads asked this question on 3/24/2000:
I just bought my first home. It is 80 years old and made of brick. A few years
ago, the floor started to sag in the centre and so the previous owner added
a new beem. It was jacked too high, and now the main floor has a hump in it. How
would I repair that? Please help!
RobDecker gave this
response on 3/25/2000:
You'll need to crawl under the house and see how
he suppoted the new beam. If it's 4x4 on piers construction, then you'll have
to shorten the 4x4s on the piers.
To do that you'll need a bottle
jack and some blocks to jack up the beam next to the offending 4x4/s. Jack up
the beam until the pressure is off the 4x4. Knock out the 4x4 with a hammer and
cut the 4x4 LESS than the height of the hump in the floor. replace the shorter
4x4 and remove the jack.
Give the floor a few days to adjust to the
new support. You may have to repeat the process.
Good Luck
RobDecker
Hurricane shutters
nuppa1 asked this question on 3/26/2000:
Are ther any products (shuters/storm pannels) on the market which can withstand
hurricane force winds of 110 mph? If so; who?
RobDecker gave this response on 3/26/2000:
Hello,
Yes, I suggest you try
All BROWARD HURRICANE PANEL, INC.
call
1-800-432-1803
for info or thier website:
http://www.hurricaneshutter.com/
Their
shutters meet ALL building codes.
Good Luck!
RobDecker
what areas are "Living Area"
Andy asked this question on 3/26/2000:
I am in the process of purchasing a new home. What areas of the house are considered
"Living Area"? I would like to know so that I can calculate the total
living area in square feet.
Thank you for you help.
Andy
RobDecker gave this response on 3/26/2000:
Hi Andy,
When you refer to the square footage of a home, you’re
NOT suppose to include the garage. A small percentage of sellers, and this includes
the pros, do. Some even include breezeways, screened patios and on and on.
In order for buyers to be able to
compare apples to apples, and sellers to
not be put at a unfair disadvantage by their competition, some clarification
is needed. By determing living area instead of square footage they are trying to
clarify this.
Good luck with your new home,
RobDecker
Andy asked this follow-up question on 3/27/2000:
When I talked to the seller, she told me that the living area did not include
the laundry room area. When I add up the square footage for the house, using
some measurements that I took, I come up with more sq ft than the number she gave
me. Are bathrooms, storage closets, walk-in closets, and hallways considered
"living area"? I assume that kitchens, bedrooms, living, and dining areas are
"living areas".
Another question that has come up, what are the requirements,
if any, for calling a room in the basement a bedroom? Some friends mentioned
that there has to be another exit from the basement to classify the room
as a basement. Any truth to that?
Thanks,
Andy
RobDecker gave this response on 3/28/2000:
Hi Andy,
I contacted a couple of realtors regarding 'living area' and
they both agreed with the meaning I earlier conveyed to you: the Area of a house
less any garage, patio, or porches. They would include bathrooms, storage closets,
walk-in closets, and hallways. The term might have some other meaning in
an individual area or state, but it has no widespread realty or financing meaning.
You might contact an appraiser in your state and ask if there's a specific
way they define it.
In regards to your question concerning bedroom in the
basement: Per FHA, each bedroom must have a closet. If the one in the basement
does, and is accesabe by stairs from the home, than it would probaly meet their
requirements. Just placing a bed down there would not. Another exit is not a factor.
Hope this helps,
RobDecker
getting rid of the dust in home
abanks asked this question on 3/27/2000:
In a home, how do I rid of the dust particles in the air?
Alan Banks
RobDecker gave this response on 3/28/2000:
Hi abanks,
Here are several options:
If your home has a forced air
heating and/or cooling system, make sure the furnace filter is changed every
60 days.
There is a new type of furnace filter kit that is Electro-Staticly
charged. You'll have to cut it to the size or the existing filter. See if your
home center carries one.
You can add an electro-static cleaner unit to
your forced-air system.- Contact a heating/cooling contractor.
If you do not
have a forced air system, and have one room that is particularly dusty,
try
one of the portable air cleaners. They can do a particularly good job in one
room or area, but not the whole house.
Good Luck!
RobDecker
removing candle wax from a carpet
mskiefer asked this question on 3/27/2000:
What is the best method for removing candle wax from a carpet?
RobDecker gave this response on 3/28/2000:
To remove candle wax from carpet:
1. Fill a plastic bag with ice and seal
it with a rubber band or use a ziplock bag so that the ice water can't leak
out. You may have to double bag it - you must keep the area dry.
2. Place
the ice pack on the carpet over the stain for 10-15 minutes or how ever long it
takes to somewhat freeze the wax.
3. Remove the ice pack and immediately
hit the wax area with a hammer to break up the wax.
4. Immediately- gently
comb the wax out of the carpet with a wire brush. Don't remove fiber.
5.
Vacuum-up the tiny pieces of wax.
6. REPEAT THE PROCESS until all the wax
is removed.
Hope this helps,
Rob Decker
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sealing cedar decks
gjorgens asked this question on 3/29/2000:
please tell me your opinion of the best protection in sealer for cedar decks
which will stand up to sun and rain the longest and best. thanks you Gary
RobDecker gave this response on 3/29/2000:
Hello Gary,
I am not an expert on paints and stains and usually sub out
that work, but I recently used a product I was quite impessed with. We used
it for a new Redwood deck, but I think it would be great on cedar also. I heard
of this product through a Swimming Pool Contractor, located the company by phone,
and had them ship the product to me. I estimated a need of about 7-8 gallons,
so I ordered 1 5-gallon and 3 1-gallon pails. Although I got a price break of
the 5 gallons size, it wasn’t cheap (I think it averaged about $40. per gallon).
It was “oil based” and slow to dry (1-2 days). As I had a lot of other remodeling
to do, I hired a painter to apply it and he hand brushed it. After he finished,
and before I finished the work on the house we had a couple of days of
rain and the water beaded beautifully off that deck. Like I said, I was impressed,
but it was expensive, and I don’t have any long term results to report to you
as it was just last November, and I haven’t seen it go through even 1 summer.
(The jury is still out) Here is the contact info I have on that product:
TWP
- Total Wood Protectant. (they had a light semi-transparent cedar stain tint
available) ...
Amteco/Fiber Saver Coatings
Contact: Larry Cerenzie
5360 Eastgate mall #F
San Diego, CA 92121
(619) 558-0800 Fax
: (619) 558-2159
Preservatives (Treatment Products)
Other than
that, I would try the Paint Department at your local home center and ask for
advice. I would look for an oil-based product (I think oil wet-weathers better)
with UV protection. I would think you could find a good product with a “track
record” for $25.-$30. per gallon.
Good Luck
RobDecker
removing adhesive on ceramic tile
Anonymous asked this question on 3/29/2000:
First, when my ceramic tile floor was installed they dropped a few drops of
the adhesive onto the tile now I have drops of yellow on my lovely floor. How
can I get that off? Secondly, when my fireplace mantle was painted we got paint
on the fireplace insert (it is like a metal). How can I get that off?
Lastly,
I have a glass topped coffee table, there are marks from where someone sat
a cup. How can I get that off? Thanks so much for your help!
RobDecker gave this response on 3/29/2000:
1. On the ceramic tile, it should be thin-set they used to install the tile
(a dark gray cement) . Remove with a sponge and hot soapy water. Use in conjunction
with a putty knife for the stubborn spots. Since you say it is yellow and
sticky it may be vinyl floor adhesive; remove with mineral spirits and a soft
cloth.
2. To remove paint from the fireplace insert, that’s a tough job (I
would have the painter come back and clean it). If it is latex paint use hot soapy
water (I like Natures Orange, made by Treewax) , sponge and a plastic putty
knife.
If its oil based paint start with trying to rub it off with mineral
spirits (Paint Thinner) and a cloth. If that doesn’t phase it, step up to the
stronger Lacquer thinner and a cloth. This will probably remove some of the black
paint on the insert. If that’s what it takes, continue on and touch-up paint
the insert with heat resistant flat or satin enamel to match.
3. For the
glass, put on rubber gloves and carefully use a lime remover, they contain acid,
( I use LIMAWAY bathroom cleaner) to remove the calcium and mineral deposits.
You should always wear eye protection when cleaning with any products that contain
acid as eye damage is unrepairable. Rinse off with water, and shine it up
with a glass cleaner.
Hope that helps
RobDecker
What's next, electrician or floor?
dhstock asked this question on 3/29/2000:
I know that there is a flow of activity, things that should be done before
others. I have the footings done(and filled with cement) with 2' of cinderblock
on them. This building will be my wood-shop, so I require electricity, alot of
it. My question is this, do I have the electrician come out first and lay the
lines before floor pouring, and is the floor the last to be done after framing?
Also, I would eventually like to put in a wood burning stove, what should be done
during the framing to accomodate this?
RobDecker gave this response on 3/29/2000:
I would be "shopping for an electrician now and have him come out and
look at what you plan to do. He'll probably want to run 240v to a sub panel in
the shop and run the individual circuits from there.
I would pour the floor
next before the walls go up.
I assume you are not going to have
any plumbing in the building, (although I love the laundry basin I put in my shop
and use it all the time) but if you do, the plumber should come in to install
supply and waste lines before you pour the floor.
While you're framing
the roof you'll want to install an insulated chimney kit (either solid insulated
packed pipe, best but more expensive, or triple-walled air cooling flue)
to accommodate your wood-burning stove. Make sure it is a wood-burning kit and
not a gas burning. It will probably be 6" dia. but check the inside flue dia.
of the stove you plan to use before you buy a kit.
Building a shop is
a lot of fun, enjoy!
RobDecker
dhstock asked this follow-up question on 3/29/2000:
It's me again. Is there anything I need to do to the floor for the stove.
It sits up on three feet so I assume (there's that word again) that a heat resistant
under-stove substance has to be used. And while I have your ear, how far
away from the walls should it be? Thanking you in advance. Heidi
RobDecker gave this response on 3/29/2000:
Local building codes vary, but here are the basics. If you're going to
pour a slab for the floor, then you need to do nothing on the floor. Otherwise
you need non-combustible material that extends 20" in front of the opening and
12" each side. The material, let's call it a brick veneer until you decide, should
continue under the stove and up the wall behind the stove to 12" above the
top of the stove itself.
With a brick veneer behind the stove it
can be placed 12" from the front of the brick veneer (same on the side if close
to a wall-12”). Otherwise it should be 30" from the wall - on the back and the
sides. Yes, they take up a lot of room, but they put out lots of heat. The best
use of space is in a corner, with 2 walls of brick veneer, and the stove opening
facing out at a 45 degree angle.
Good luck!
RobDecker
dhstock asked this follow-up question on 3/30/2000:
Once again, sussinct. Thanks again. You have been most helpful. Now can you
tell me how to print your answer?
Trex decking cost
DIANE14 asked this question on 3/29/2000:
Hi! I have seen more and more advertisting for this and truly am interested.
No place on the Web can I find pricing though. I went to the Trex website and
found a few places in Houston that carry it, but I don't want to call and get
pressured into coming in to talk with a salesperson just yet (if that's how it
works). Can someone tell me what I should expect to pay? I couldn't even begin
to estimate the size I would need, as the house is still under new construction.
Also, I have dogs and would like to make sure Trex Decking is safe for them to
be crawling all over.
Thanks, Diane
RobDecker gave this response on 3/31/2000:
Hi Diane,
I recently completed a rather large Trex deck (see pictures
in Gallery). The price of the 2x6 decking may not relate as I bought almost
a full Truck and trailer of Trex delivered and priced with a conrtactor discount.
I would think you could find it priced close to two dollars a lineal foot
($2.00 lf). But add to have your lumber yard or home center deliver it for you
as it is twice the weight of wood.
Trex is safe for your dogs. It won't hurt
them and they can't hurt it. I think you'll find they will search it out as
a favorite place for a nap as it has an insulating effect. It doesn't get too
hot,in the sun or too cold during inclimate weather.
Hope this helps,
RobDecker
Flowerpot water damage to deck
Anonymous asked this question on 3/28/2000:
I have a large redwood deck. I want to protect it agains water damage cause
by container gardening.
Many people use saucers under their flowerpots to
catch excess waster. I think this can aggrevate the problem. Water is held in
the saucer negatively affecting the deck and the plant.
I have been told I
should elevate my flowerpots to allow air flow. Also, a flowerpot drain has been
highly recommended described at www.potterytrainer.com
Your suggestionss
regarding elevating pots, draining pots, or ...?
RobDecker gave this response on 3/31/2000:
I have flower pots on my redwood deck. I place the pots in decorative bowls
filled with a single layer of river rock. The rounded river rock allows the water
to evaporate quickly and keeps the flower pots from sitting in standing water.
Hope
this helps,
Rob Decker
My Porch cracks
Anonymous asked this question on 3/31/2000:
My porch is tile ceramic tile and the outer border is brick. there is now a
small separation between the tiling edge and the brick edge. A few small weeds
are now able to grow in the separations. I pull the weeds or spray with roundup
but need to seal this separation. What is the best way to do this or who would
I get to do this at a reasonable cost?
RobDecker gave this response on 4/1/2000:
Hello,
It sounds like a foundation problem, (not enough of) and
the brick will continue to slowly settle and pull away. For a cheap cosmetic
fix, I would fill the crack with an acrylic caulk in the color that would blend
the best.
Acrylic does not get hard and brittle, and has enough
elasticity to fill during future movement. Unlike silicone, it is water clean-up,
available in many colors, and is fairly inexpensive. ($3.-4. a tube with a
10-15 yr.life)
If there is a lot of movement you may have to recaulk
again in a year or so until you can tear it out and put in a new foundation.
Hope
this helps,
RobDecker
Sand or cement under pavers
ntropics@... asked this question on 4/2/2000:
I am putting in a patio between some flower beds. It will be small, 8 feet
round with a three foot walkway leading up to it. I noticed that my neighbor had
a professinally installed walkway and they used cement under the paving stones.
My instructions from my paving stone supplier suggested sand. (I live where
the cement will experience freezing.) Is cement a better base? Thanks for your
help!
RobDecker gave this response on 4/2/2000:
Sand works great.
If you need a border, you can use Redwood Bender Board
or one of the many plastic edge treatments on the market today. Small paving
stones like a border to keep them from eventually shifting out, while larger
pavers hold their position just fine.
Good luck with your project!
RobDecker
Leaking basement
Anonymous asked this question on 4/1/2000:
We bought a house near a pond with the assurance from the previous owners of
30 years that the finished basement was dry. We now have water leaking up through
the floor. We have taken out the carpet and are working on taking out the
tile that was under the carpet. How can we stop this water??? What is the best
way to deal with the mold that is beginning to grow on the walls? Is there any
way to prevent a recurrence? Is there any way to keep the musty smell out of books,
pictures, etc that must remain down there because we don't have room for them
upstairs?
RobDecker gave this response on 4/2/2000:
Hello,
First of all, let me tell you that I am not an expert on basements.
I live in the wrong part of the country (So.Calif) to have any real first
hand experience with them and I haven't.
Having said that, I will tell you
what my understanding is on water leaking into a basement. You must first determine
which side or sides or the basement the water is leaking through. Then excavate
outside the house along those walls to a depth below the basement floor;
install perforated pipe and fill with gravel; install a pump that goes on and
clears that pipe when water accumulates.
May I suggest you contact an expert
on this site and in homecare: JackMasters
He will be able to give you the
particulars on the subject as he has written a book on this very subject.
As
for the mold, a solution of bleach and water will kill and remove the existing
mold and mildew, but of course you must remove the moisture to prevent it
from reappearing.
Good luck,
RobDecker
ionizer need filter?
abanks asked this question on 4/2/2000:
Why does an ionizer need a filter? Are there ionizers that do not need these
filters?
Basically, I am looking for ways to keep a home clean and dust
free. Is an ionizer a good choice?
Alan Banks
RobDecker gave this response on 4/2/2000:
Hello Alan,
I'm not a scientist, so please bear with me.
As
I understand it, basically an ionizer cleans air by first placing an electrical
charge on the air passing through it. Any solid matter in the air picks up this
charge (ie dust). It makes the dust heavier than air and it falls. A better
idea would be to have a vacume cleaner with a hepa filter to pick up this
heavy dust..
Please excuse my unscientific explanation, but I think you get
the idea.
To determine if this is best for your home, I would try
to get some free estimates from Hvac contractors in your area and see what they
suggest.
Hope this helps,
RobDecker
abanks asked this follow-up question on 4/2/2000:
ok. i know that magnetic fields can be harmful to the body, and i want to have
the least amount of electrical fields in my home. What do you suggest?
RobDecker gave this response on 4/2/2000:
Hi Alan,
Please don't let me mislead you as to the health aspects of
ionizers; I was mainly describing the basic process.
Ionizers are very
health benificial. With ionizers, negative is good. Stale air and dirty air
is mostly comprised of positive ions. Ionizers work to introduce new negative ions
into the air which attache to dust particles and make them fall.
That
is, Ionizers work in 2 ways to clean the air. One is the filter which we
discussed before.
The second way they work is to introduce these negative
ions which in turn attract or combine with smoke and other polutants in the air
becoming bigger and too heavy and thus falling from the air.
A good
site to visit on ions is
http://www.djclarke.co.uk/index.htm#4
Hope
this helps
RobDecker
cleaning concrete in a utility room
swhitham asked this question on 4/2/2000:
How can I remove stains or discoloration from the concrete floor in my utility
room? I have used several things such as Bar Keepers Friend, Delete, and Iron
Out for Rust and Stains. Most of the discoloration is from 25 years of walking
across the floor. This is the room where shoes are usually removed before proceeding
to the rest of the house.(Mud Room)
Thanks.
Sally
RobDecker gave this response on 4/2/2000:
Since you have already tried some of the commercial cleaners I believe the
stains are fairly well imbedded. You might try a solution of TSP-Extra Strength
(much better than the regular) and water with a stiff brush.
If that fails
I would go to a concrete floor paint. The one I used on my front porch (a light
tan) four years ago has weathered very well and still looks clean and fresh.
Hope
this helps,
RobDecker
Magic Marker Carpet Stain
sambo3 asked this question on 4/2/2000:
I have a red magic marker stain, 6" long on light brown carpet. How can I remove
the stain and not hurt the carpet?
RobDecker gave this response on 4/2/2000:
If the stain is not old, try scrubbing it out with a sponge and hot soapy
water (Natures Orange by Treewax)
If this fails to completely remove the
stain than you'll have to go to one of the dry cleaning solvents for carpets you
see in the supermarkets. Sorry I don't have a brand to recommend.
Good Luck
RobDecker
Cedar deck coating
hproh asked this question on 4/2/2000:
I have a new cedar deck and would like to know how to best protect it from
the weather and UV rays to keep it looking nice. Some coatings seem to be oil based,
while others are not. Preferably it would be something clear with a light
stain. Do you have a product recomendation?
Thank you, hp
RobDecker gave this response on 4/2/2000:
Hi hp,
I don't have a specific product recommendation other than I believe
the "oil-based" stains work the best against moisture damage. To keep the
look of the grain in the wood choose a semi-transparent stain. To determine the
exact shade or tint of the stain look at the samples at your nearest home center
or paint store.
Gook Luck,
RobDecker
Concrete flaking
kensr asked this question on 4/4/2000:
I have a concrete pad that I built for my children's basketball court three
years ago. This past winter I boarded it off for a skating rink. When the ice
melted I noticed that the concrete is flaking off even down to some of the aggregate.
My question is: Is there anything I can put oveer the concrete to get it
back to its original condition and how do I prevent it from getting any worse?
Thank
you
RobDecker gave this response on 4/4/2000:
Hello,
If you're down to the aggregate you need to put down a thin coat
of plastic cement, wait several weeks for it to completely cure, and put on
a good concrete sealer. This should prevent you from having the same problem next
winter.
Good Luck,
Bathroom door always swings open
funrunner asked this question on 4/4/2000:
I have a bathroom door that likes to swing open unless the door is shut enough
for the latch to catch. It opens slowly, but when you're in the bathroom
and don't feel like being an exhibitionist this can be a bit of a problem.
How
does one fix this problem? I think the solution involves resetting the
hinges on the door and maybe mounting the hinges into the door frame differently
but I don't know how to go about this without screwing up the balance of the
door. Any ideas?
RobDecker gave this response on 4/4/2000:
Hi funrunner,
Most likely, the cause of your door opening by itself
is gravity and aided by air movement if your bathroom has an exhaust fan.
You
can remedy this by moving the hinges about one-quarter inch (1/4")
in opposite directions. The door must be open, of course, for you to move the
hinges, but to get the right picture, go in the bathroom and close the door.
As
you face the closed door from inside the bathroom, your need to move
the top hinge away from you (into the frame), and the bottom hinge toward you
(out of the frame)
The easiest, with out chiseling the mortise for
the top hinge in the door and frame, on a two hinge door, is just moving the bottom
hinge. That might just be enough to fix it.
I hope this helps,
RobDecker
remove cupboard smells
read@... asked this question on 4/4/2000:
our kitchen cupboards have a slight musty smell.
We had a new roof put
on which has covered any possibility of water leaks and have have wiped with vannila
essence to no avail as the musty smell is still there and increasing. the
house was vacant for a while and smell only mild,but increasing now.the house
is old fibro exterior /tounge and grouve walls/pollished wood floors and raised
on aprox meter and a half stumps.
looking forward to someones help
thankyou,
our kitchen cupboards have a slight musty smell.
We had a new roof
put on which has covered any possibility of water leaks and have have wiped
with vannila essence to no avail as the musty smell is still there and increasing.
the house was vacant for a while and smell only mild,but increasing now.the
house is old fibro exterior /tounge and grouve walls/pollished wood floors and
raised on aprox meter and a half stumps.
looking forward to someones help
thankyou
RobDecker gave this response on 4/4/2000:
Hello,
It sounds like you still have some form of mildew, and I
would treat it accordingly.
Wipe the cupboards with a weak solution
of Clorox bleach and water. Then place open boxes of baking soda in the cabinets
to absorb any remaining odor.
Good Luck,
RobDecker
White glue stain removal
Anonymous asked this question on 4/6/2000:
Can someone please help me! Elmer's white glue was spilled on a medium beige
velvet upholstered chair and dried before I noticed it. Area is about 3 inches
by 2 inches and right in the middle of the seat. Is there anything I can do to
remove the dried glue (looks like the fabric really absorbed it)?
RobDecker gave this response on 4/7/2000:
To remove white glue, use a hot soapy detergent solution and a sponge. (I like
Nature's Orange, but any clear, non-bleach liquid dishwashing detergent such
as Dawn, Joy, or clear Ivory will work. Do not use detergents that are cloudy
or creamy because they may leave a sticky residue.)
Work the glue from the
outside to the center of the spot until it softens and can be picked from the
fabric.
Working with any fabric, first test a small area with the detergent
and blot with a clean paper towel to test for color fastness.
Good Luck,
RobDecker
Red wine carpet stain
schurheck asked this question on 4/7/2000:
Anyone have a good tip of removing a red wine carpet stain?
RobDecker gave this response on 4/7/2000:
To remove wine from carpet, use a hot soapy detergent solution and a sponge.
(I like Nature's Orange, but any clear, non-bleach liquid dishwashing detergent
such as Dawn, Joy, or clear Ivory will work. Do not use detergents that are
cloudy or creamy because they may leave a sticky residue.)
Work the stain
from the outside to the center of the spot.
If this doesn't remove it all,
mix one-third cup of white household vinegar with two-thirds cup of water. Apply
with a sponge, and blot.
Working with any fabric, first test a small area
with the detergent and the viniger and blot with a clean paper towel to test
for color fastness.
Good Luck,
RobDecker
Carpet and Hard Wood Floor Joint
Jbcohen asked this question on 4/7/2000:
I don't know what it is called but I have a metal strip between my hard wooden
floor and the carpeted potions of my home. This strip is flapping around because
it is not fastened down properly. What do I use to fasten it down with?
RobDecker gave this response on 4/8/2000:
Hello,
The metal strip is called a carpet transition strip. It was originally
nailed down and the metal flap was bent over or hammered down to grasp
the carpet.
It would be best to replace the transition with a new one. They're
inexpensive (prox $1.00 per lf) and available at your local home center, lumber
yard, or hardware store.
To remove the old one, force a flat, screwdriver
from the carpet side, under the flap and twist to raise the flap. Do this
for the length of the strip until it no longer grips the carpet, and remove it.
To
install a the new one, cut the strip to length with some tin snips. place
the the new one on the floor snug to the edge of the carpet with the raised
flap facing the carpet. Nail the strip to the floor being careful not to hit
and bend the flap with the hammer.
When the strip is completely nailed down,
place a block of wood on the flap and pound it down evenly onto the carpet
a little at a time for the length of the strip until it tightly grips the carpet.
Go slow and be patient, you can do it. It might take you 3-4 trips up and down
the strip.
Gook Luck,
RobDecker
deck designs
zachary@... asked this question on 4/6/2000:
I want to build a deck around my house, but have never built one. I was looking
for some different plans on the internet, but was not successful. Can you
tell me is there anywhere I can go to find a step by step build it decks website.
Also,with different plans to choose from. Thanks Vern , I want to build a deck
around my house, but have never built one. I was looking for some different
plans on the internet, but was not successful. Can you tell me is there anywhere
I can go to find a step by step build it decks website. Also,with different plans
to choose from. Thanks Vern
RobDecker gave this response on 4/8/2000:
I think a good place you might start with is hometime's site on decks.
http://www.hometime.com/projects/deckprch.htm
Good
Luck,
RobDecker
Brick Patio Base
lmic821226 asked this question on 4/7/2000:
I live in Soouthwest Florida and want to build a brick patio and sidewalk.
How do I prepare the base in sandy, silty, powdery soil? LMic821226@aol.com
RobDecker gave this response on 4/8/2000:
If you're in a sandy, silty, and powder soil area you have the perfect base
for a brick patio. Other than clearing the area of vegetation and excavating to
the desired levels your ready!
Good Luck,
RobDecker
porch railings
beauty16101 asked this question on 4/8/2000:
We are putting a wraparound porch on our house in the city. The dimensions
are 8ft. wide x 40ft. across the front, & 8ft x 23ft on the side. I don't want
a rail that everyone else has, I want something different & unique. But I also
need it to be inexpensive. Please suggest the possible routes available. Thank
you.
RobDecker gave this response on 4/8/2000:
The most inexpensive rail I know of is painted fir or yellow pine 4x4 post
spaced 10' on center with 3 - Galv. stranded cables running through the 4x4 post.
I think you should have a material cost under $2.00 per LF.
If I
had to choose, I would prefer the next cheapest and much less unique: a rail of
painted fir or yellow pine 4x4 post 6' o.c. and 3-2x4, 1 flat on top of posts
with a 2x4 nailed on edge to it flush with the top, and one 2x4 nailed to the outside
of the post midway down (materials close to $3.00 LF).
For the
really unique, keep looking and thinking. Original ideas are born, not conveyed;
and you know what they say about necesity. I hope this gets you started on
pricing anyway.
RobDecker
Wetting down paver base
Fuminartz@..., a user from Hardware.com, asked this question on 4/8/2000:
Doing a small patio with pavers roughly 90 sq.ft. Tamping down screening or
what some people call stone dust.Should the dust be wet down first to aid in tamping
or not?
RobDecker gave this response on 4/8/2000:
Yes, wetting down the base of stone dust will help with compaction while tamping
it down. You'll also find that when using sand for the paving base, damp
sand will help hold its form
while screeding.
Good Luck,
RobDecker
Building deck stairs
motiongy@..., a user from Hardware.com, asked this question on 4/9/2000:
i have a deck about 10' high with no steps to ground leval. i am looking for
a how to artical to build stairs and have not found anything. can you get me
started? figuring length, how many steps, how to cut the stringers?
thanks!
RobDecker gave this response on 4/9/2000:
BUILDING STAIRS
Most codes require stairs if the top of your deck is over
12 inches. I don’t know of a good site on the Internet (I’m thinking of adding
it to mine) for building stairs, but most books on decks (available @ your
local home center, lumber yard, or hardware store) include a section on stairs.
To get you started, here it is in a nutshell:
As you probably know,
stairs consist of open or closed STRINGERS, the side boards that support the steps,
TREADS, the steps, and RISE or risers, the increase in height from the top
of one step to the top of the next. RUN is the total distance out from the face
of the deck to the outside edge of the first step.
A comfortable
tread is 11-1/2 inches (the actual measure of a 2x12) . Stringers can be 2x10 but
for stairs 4-5 feet, I recommend a 2x12 or larger, stained or painted pressure
treated Fir. For added strength, simplicity, and decor, I recommend a closed
stringer (the 2x12 stringers remains whole and just add metal cleats to the inside
face to support the 2x12 treads). Attach the stringers with angle iron to
a reinforced 2x12 face board on the face of the deck and angle iron anchored to
a small concrete pad in the ground. In the following, do not count the ground
as a step; the top of the deck
is your last step, but not a tread.
1.
Divide the deck height by 7 inches. (typical rise)
2. Round off to
the nearest whole number. (# of treads)
3. Multiply number of treads by 11-1/2
inches. (total run of treads)
4. Divide deck height by number of steps,
(# of treads plus 1), to find actual rise between treads.
If
your deck height is exactly 10’-0”
you have 17 treads,
your total run
of treads is 195-1/2” or 16’-3-1/2”,
and your actual rise is (120”/18)
= 6-10/16”.
Have fun,
RobDecker
handicap ramp plans
Anonymous asked this question on 4/9/2000:
i build ramps for a non profit organization and am interested in detailed drawings,designs
and measurements that would give alternate looks to the construction
and yet still meet all codes in general. i have access to a site from minnesota
and rudin structures that is excellent and very helpful but i would like
more alternate choices. thank you for any help that you can offer. , i build ramps
for a non profit organization and am interested in detailed drawings,designs
and measurements that would give alternate looks to the construction and yet
still meet all codes in general. i have access to a site from minnesota and rudin
structures that is excellent and very helpful but i would like more alternate
choices. thank you for any help that you can offer.
RobDecker gave this response on 4/9/2000:
There is a section in Home Depot's "Outdoor Projects 123" that you might add
to your database.
Also, perhaps these sites would be helpful:
http://www.rehabnet.com/monographs/ramps.htm
http://challengespecialties.com/residential_ramps.html#Residential
Ramps
http://www.macil.org/mcil/ramp.htm
Hope
this
helps,
RobDecker
Improving patio's looks
my_miracles asked this question on 4/9/2000:
Another question from me! In our 4 bedroom Spanish ranch recently purchased,
built in 1978, we have a back patio. It had been very small but added a little
extra concrete shortly after it had been built. One prob. we have is weeds
growing up between the additions, in the little crack, and fire ants coming in
between, but the big prob. is visual. We have one of those all one piece metal
picnic tables that is really not my style, which came to us through a relative.
We have 2 old, bad condition (as far as structure goes) adirondack chairs, and
not much else, except a lot of kids junk tossed around. The back of the house
has not been really redone much as far as visual stuff. The gutters are falling
down a tiny bit in places and hanging loose, and we keep having leaves blown up
to the patio door even with sweeping twice a day. If you stand in the back of
the yard and look at the house, it looks tacky, and if you stand inside the living
room or kitchen and look onto the patio, it looks tossed about and ordinary.
Any ideas to make this a pretty place to look at and sit would be appreciated.
We don't allow smoking in our home so I wouldlike it when people go out there
to smoke to look presentable, and also to be able to have people over and grill
out and be proud of it.
RobDecker gave this response on 4/10/2000:
Hello,
Sometimes in areas that are too open, a statigically placed
screen can work wonders. I have been using a lot of the 4x8 panels of white
plastic lattice lately. It is very attractive and since it is made of PVC plastic,
it requires no maintenance what-so-ever.
A short section of decorative
fence in the right place can be very attractive.
Arbors and trellis
work supporting vines are quite popular now and can give an area a whole different
"feeling".
Raised flower beds can help break-up an area and combined
with a trellis can serve as a screen also. Vine covered arbors shaped as
arches can add a bit of mystery, even if they don't lead anywhere.
As
for the space in between your patio slabs, trowel in a little concrete patch.
that will take care of the weeds and the ants. They even have a liquid crack
sealer you can purchase at your home center that is quick and easy.
Good
luck with your patio, I know it will be very beautiful soon!
RobDecker
Wood or Steel Garage Doors?
dsnyder asked this question on 4/12/2000:
We are building a house in Southborough, Massachusetts. The house will be a
contemporary (Deck House) with vertical wood siding. We have looked at steel and
aluminum garage doors. We know they are great but we think they look lousy.
We have heard that wood garage doors are very hard to maintain. What do you recommend?
RobDecker gave this response on 4/12/2000:
Hello,
Generally I recommend the steel or aluminum doors and for the very
reason you've mentioned. They're upkeep is definitely easier. Other pro arguments
can be they can be insulated and the opening sealed better if you choose
to try to semi-heat the garage area. Steel or aluminum doors are easier on the
garage door opener, but its not that big a deal.
On the con side, beside
the material difference, the design lines are going to run horizontal, and
with vertical wood siding there's going to be a contrast. As you probably have
multiple doors, quite a large area of contrast. And we already know what you
think about the different material look.
With the wood doors, yes you
have to keep them up, but not any more than you have to keep up all the wood
siding on rest of the house anyway. Its rather inconceivable that you would do
one and not the other. As for the wood doors looks, your going to have them built
out of the same material your siding the house with - perfect match! Beautiful
siding and beautiful siding!
I think you should go with the wood
doors.
Good luck with your new house!
RobDecker
Sealing treated deck
kvennum asked this question on 4/12/2000:
2 questions- I just bought a house with a nice, pressure treated wood porch.
It looks like they just bought the lumber, installed it and left. Should I seal
it with some kind of a weather proofing, like Thompson's, or is it fine how
it is.
Also, my house was tented for termites before I moved in. I've
found lots of termite dust in my intial cleaning. Being a paranoid homeowner,
how can I tell if they got all the termites or if there is still a problem?
thanks
RobDecker gave this response on 4/12/2000:
Hello,
If it is regular pressure treated lumber, then yes it needs
to be sealed. Pressure treating prevents fungus and insect damage and while
the say it is moisture resistant, it is until the weather eventually leaches out
the inorganic arsenic they used to treat it with. It also does not prevent the
lumber from cracking and splitting.
I say regular pressure treating
because there are some companies selling a pre-stained (usually a light even-colored
brown) treated deck board for decks. (A brand name that comes to mind
is Sunwood.) It would be a good idea to drop by a nearby lumber yard or home center
and have them show you some pressure treated lumber so that you can make the
determination.
If you determine that is not pre-stained then I would
recommend a good semi-transparent deck stain - oil based. ("Cabot Decking Stain"
is rated very high by consumers.) My experience with Thompson's water seal
has not been a happy one.
As for the termite pellets, note those areas
on a piece of paper, sweep them up, and make a systematic check back in two
weeks. I don't think you'll find any new pellets, fumigations are very tightly
controlled, (the fume license is very expensive and hard to get back if it is
suspended) but if you do, notify the termite company that did the fume.
If
you need more help with that, don't hesitate to write me back.
Good
luck with your new home!
RobDecker
landscaping around Septic tank
kjmia11@... asked this question on 4/12/2000:
I just purchased a home in the South Florida area which was built in 1947.
It has a septic tank in the back yard and I want to landscape, plant some trees
and build a deck, but I do not want to interfere with the septic tank. How do
I work around this?
Thanks,
Karen
RobDecker gave this response on 4/13/2000:
Hello Karen,
You can do all of the above just fine, but with these
precautions.
1. If you build your deck over the septic tank, you
need to incorporate some means of access to the 2-3 lids on the top to the septic
tank for future pump outs. This access can be trap doors or a lift-out panel
and still be unnoticeable enough not to detract from your deck.
2.
To protect the leach lines, do not plant trees or large shrubs with invasive roots.
Check out the root structure on each thing you plant in the backyard. If the
people don't know at the place you buy the tree, use the phone and call another
nursery.
3. Watch the watering in the back yard, do not over-water
or accidentally flood the area.
Following these precautions, there
is no other reason why you can't go forth and beautify!
Have fun,
RobDecker
dry rot in cca on deck
birdlady3 asked this question on 4/13/2000:
I have a large 2 story deck, all treated lumber. A couple years ago I noticed
rotting in 4 of the 9 main supporting posts. I think they are 6x6". It is not
termites. The wood seems to splinter at the center and spread out. Someone mentioned
a copper solution that would kill the fungus or whatever. Any suggestions?
Thanks Pat
RobDecker gave this response on 4/13/2000:
Hello,
Copper Chromated Arsenic or CCA treating is suppose to guard
against termites and decay caused by mold, mildew, and fungus. I can't tell
by your description that this is happening.
It sounds like the posts
are cracking and spliting and need a protective sealer like a good oil-based
semi-transparent deck stain. (Consumers report rated "Cabot Decking Stain" very
high)
If you think you need to increase or renew your protection from
termites and fungus, you can do both. First coat these areas with "Jasco Termine
8". You'll want to wear gloves. It's a green smelly solution that contains
Copper Naphthenate. It's oil based and slow drying so allow 10-14 days for it
to be fully absorbed. Then apply the stain.
Gook Luck,
RobDecker
birdlady3 asked this follow-up question on 4/14/2000:
RobDecker. I would like to clarify the wood problem, if possible. The problem
is at the top of the post at the cutoff, across the grain of wood. There are
small pieces (2"-3") that I can pull out at randum. One post on lower deck was
so eaten away that we cut off the top 6 inches down. Does this help? Is the treatment
the same as you mentioned? Thanks
RobDecker gave this response on 4/15/2000:
Yes, that is a different picture. Thanks for the additional information.
It
sounds like you do have a fungas in the posts. While most kinds of
common lumber attacking fungi are not to hard to stop, some fungal disases can
be devastating. Those are the ones that can spread to other members of the structure.
Fortunetly, these are rare.
Check the nine posts for soundness
by seeing how deep you can stick a sharp awl or ice pick into the rotton area.
if the majority of the post is sound, proceed with the jasco and stain treatment,
as previously described. Replace any posts that are not sound.
Good
Luck!
RobDecker
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My Lonely Life
ruby003 asked this question on 4/15/2000:
I hope you will be able to give me some advice. I am male and very single.
42 years old, just over 6feet tall, brown hair (whats left of it), blue eyes and
I weigh 19 st 13lbs. I am strictly heterosexual but i am still a virgin at my
age. in fact i have never had a girlfriend let alone a relationship of any sort
i
will admit i am rather shy and I do know this. So I have tried Marriage/introduction
agencies - i went out with a few women, but they never wanted to
go out again! I ensure you i dress smartly and treat a woman properly.
I
don't smoke or drink but i am no hypocrite so I don't mind those who do.
i
am an only child and since my father died 7 years i have tended to be smothered
(even more) by my 72 year old mother. i am a stabilised epileptic and naturally
she worries about me a great deal.
as you can imagine I am marriage minded,
but i would not want a ready made family and would really like my own kids
before I am too old to pick them up.
Any and all advice that you can give
me to make my life happier and more complete will be gratefully accepted.
my
best regards
Ian Cockell
RobDecker gave this response on 4/15/2000:
Hello Ian,
I'm not an expert on relationships, but I think volunteering
for public or community service or joining a group that provides it is a good
way to meet new people. It has a 3-fold benifit:
1. You meet some really
kind, considerate, and intelligent people there. The sort you are really
happy to know.
2. The work you do benifits your community and allows
you to see some positive improvements.
3. By providing a service for
others, you improve your own self respect, gain confidence, and further enrich
your life.
And, like I said, it is a good way to create relationships
with new people. It's a Win-Win-Win situation!
Good luck!
RobDecker
Subject: Pergo Wood Floor Care
Anonymous asked this question on 4/16/2000:
What is the best cleaning solution to use to clean our pergo wood flooring?
We have tried Spic-n-Span & just plain warm water--we continue to get cloudy,
streaked floors when they dry. Is there some cleaning solution available to use
to have the end-result be clean, shiny, floors? You may email response back to:
bkbrown@socket.net
Thanks!
RobDecker gave this response on 4/16/2000:
Hello,
As you probably know, Pergo flooring, when installed correctly
with enough glue at the joints should be waterproof. However, with all "floating
floor systems" water can enter from the outside edges of the floor, warp
the lumber composite under the plastic laminate, and permanently damage the floor.
Therefore, is always a good idea to only damp sponge mop the Pergo with just
enough moisture to completely dry in a minute or two. (As recommended for regular
hardwood floors.)
Pergo, and other "picture laminated" floors
mainly require care to protect the plastic surface from abrasion. Like protecting
the Teflon coating on a fry pan, the theory is protect the special plastic
laminate surface on this type of flooring and dirt can't stick.
For
this reason, as you can see from their website: www.Pergo.com/ Pergo recommends
no soap at all:
"care for your Pergo floor with an occasional damp
mopping, a quick sweeping or light vacuuming with the hard-floor attachment. Do
not use soaps or detergents because they leave a film, dulling the floor. Difficult
spots like nail polish, markers, tar and cigarette burns can be removed
with denatured alcohol, acetone or nail polish remover. The nature of the melamine
laminate surface makes it virtually impossible for dirt to stick to the floor.
Pergo floors must never be waxed, polished, sanded or refinished..."
Like
I said earlier, that's the theory, but some things stick to it, otherwise
you would not need to use their stain removal guide.
Another main
concern is bacteria. What about those accidental occasions when we might deliver
to the floor an uncovered sneeze, drop a piece of raw chicken with trace Salomella
or meat with E.-coli? I don't want to depend on damp mopping with plain
water to kill any of the thousands of invisible bacteria we might be able to
find on a kitchen floor.
I would recommend a damp mopping with a only
2-3 drops of dish detergent, like Dawn, and a following rinse solution of a little
disinfectant (like Lysol) and a little anti-spotting powder. (like you put
in the dishwasher.)
I know by personal experience that streaking is
tough to counter with Pergo, especially in front of a window with a bright sunlight
reflection. In those cases, I would recommend you purchase a soft cloth
(not the stringy synthetic fiber) dust mop, final rinse small areas, and immediately
dry them with the soft cloth dust mop. I know it's a lot of work, but you
can be selective in what areas you have to do this in.
You might experiment
a little. I have one customer that adds a little ammonia to the rinse
and reports less spotting. I have pretty good luck with the method above. (incidentally,
white vinegar causes it to spot more.)
Pergo is scratch resistant,
but not scratch proof. Never use any abrasive cleaner or the surface
can be made permanently dull. While your Pergo floor is by far much tougher than
plexi-glass, the dulling end result can be the same if you scratch it.
I
hope this helps,
RobDecker
Subject: Hard water stains on cement sealer
spriggy asked this question on 4/17/2000:
How do I remove the hard water stains from my cement patio . The patio has
a layer of cement sealer on it and the hard water stains has turned the sealer
and cement a different color. Each year I have hired a cement deck company to come
and remove the old sealer if any is left and take off the water stains.The
company then applied a new layer or two of sealer.I want to do this myself this
year. The company in the past used some chemical to take the hard water stains
off. Do you have any idea how I can remove these hard water stains from my patio
cement.
RobDecker gave this response on 4/17/2000:
Hello,
The best thing to use to remove both the hard water stains
and old sealer is one of the phosphoric acid concrete cleaners. Not to be confused
with "muriatic acid" that brick masons use to use to clean off excess motar.
(Besides the dangerous side effects, muriatic cleans by destroying the lime
in the comcrete mix)
Phosphoric acid cleaners are each formulated for a specific
function; concrete cleaning, mortar cleaning, tile grout cleaning, etching,
ETC.
These cleaners are available at masonry yards and home centers.
Good
Luck!
RobDecker
Subject: Stain/paint deck?
Anonymous asked this question on 4/17/2000:
Which comes first,should i stain or paint my deck
first?What brand
of stain and paint do you recommend?
How long do i wait after stain application,to
paint?How often do i stain? Thanks.....
RobDecker gave this response on 4/17/2000:
Hello,
If this is a new wood deck, I would recommend that you stain it.
If you paint it, you must first paint on a primer and when dry, repeat the process
with the paint. Paint eventually peels, and when it comes time to repaint
in the future, all loose or peeling paint must be wire brushed off before you
can repaint.
Stain on the other hand, can be applied directly to raw wood
(Although some stains have a two-coat system that requires a base).
The big
advantage to stain is the fact that on a regular 2-3 yr. basis, you can repaint
over the old stain with little to no prep.
In stains, you can choose between
a solid color stain or semi-transparent, which lets some of the natural
color and grain show through. I recommend the oil based semi-transparent because
it weathers a little better.
If you determine that you would like to try
the semi-transparent oil based, "Cabot Decking Stain" is rated very high by Consumers
in the last testing.
Enjoy your deck!
RobDecker
Subject: Inexpensive Driveway
Anonymous asked this question on 4/17/2000:
Hey Rob, I want to put in an extra driveway in my front yard,and I'm wondering
if I can use those 12" x 12" pavers to do this. I am from AZ. and the footage
would be approximately 18' x 8'. There are many different kinds of pavers, can
you suggest which I could use and how I can do this? Also, do I need some kind
of border, as I currently have a grass lawn. I am leaning this way because I've
called some concrete contractors and haven't found anything for under $800
dollars. Any advice you have is appreciated. Thanks for your time.
RobDecker gave this response on 4/17/2000:
Hello,
Any of the 12x12 pavers would be fine as long as you put in a good
base. Normally to provide for drainage you excavate the area down to 6", put
in a 4" layer of gravel and tamp down a 2" layer of sand as the actual bed for
the pavers. In the places I've worked in AZ they had very sandy soil and good
drainage. If this is your situation, I think you can skip the gravel.
In
this case, remove the sod and finish excavating a 3" deep flat pad. You can
edge the pad with stained pressure treated 2x4 (set on edge and anchored with
metal stakes).
Figure your total length and area with full pavers spaced
tightly (1/4" space all around) to avoid having to cut any pavers. You may wish
to slope the pad towards the street to prevent puddles when you water your lawn.
Put in a 3" base of sand, (cheapest available)wet down with water
for compaction, and form a flat bed for the pavers. You can use the edge a 6'
piece of 2x4 to level or flatten the top surface of the sand. Since you have
side boards, you can build a screed, but for this small an area, the 6' 2x4 will
work fine.
When you've finished setting the pavers, dry sweep sand
or a sand & cement dry mixture into the spaces between the pavers. Wet down your
finish work with a little water to clean off the pavers and let it all sit for
a day.
There, you've done it!
Good Luck,
RobDecker
Subject: Woodpecker problem
a-katyk@... asked this question on 4/18/2000:
Can you offer any advice on dissuading a woodpecker from drilling a hole in
the side of a house?
Thank you,
Katy
RobDecker gave this response on 4/18/2000:
Hello Katy,
Since all Woodpeckers are protected under the Federal Migratory
Act, we must be very careful in our eradication methods not to accidentally
cause injury to the bird.
It sounds like you have some drumming going
on. Before you can decide on which action to take, it's important to understand
what the Woodpecker is trying to do. Let me explain.
Each Spring,
many varieties of male Woodpeckers (Flickers are notorious) engage in an activity
known as "drumming". Drumming is solely for the benefit of other Woodpeckers.
The two-fold message to other Woodpeckers of matching variety, if placed
in a personal ad would read: WANTED: Females interested in raising a family. Have
great territory for feeding and nesting. MALES, keep out! Will fight to the
death to defend this territory!" To both males and females: "You can tell what
a good defender of this territory I am by this ferocious Pecking!"
As
you can understand, when it comes to drumming - Loud is good. For many varieties
of Woodpeckers, the drum of choice is a very resonant semi-hollow dead tree
trunk. Naturally in residential areas, homeowners cut down dead trees so the next
drum of choice is the hollow wood siding of a house, (reason #21 why you should
insulate the sides of your house, ha ha) a metal rain gutter, or a TV antenna
pole, Etc. [source:Univ.of Neb. http://www.ianr.unl.edu/ianr/lanco/enviro/pest/Nebline/Woodpeckers.htm]
Drumming
takes place mostly in Spring during
the months of April, May, and June. It rarely goes on past July 1st. It occurs
in early morning and late afternoon. Fortunately, drumming only lasts 4-5
weeks. (if he can indeed defend his territory) [source:Colorado State U. http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/PUBS/NATRES/06516.html]
Because
the
main purpose of drumming is to make noise, usually there is little damage. That's
not true in the nest-building activity that follows drumming. Because a hole
in the siding can serve as an attractant, now is a good time to fill or cover
them. However, nest-building and drumming rarely occur in the same area:)
There
are several deterring methods that all have worked, yet have limited
success in dissuading drumming year after year.
I suggest you try them
one by one to see which ones work with this bird.
1. One or more Hawk
shaped mobiles (outstretched wings)hung from the eaves with monofiliment line.
2. Painted wooden owls placed in the eaves. (one very aggressive woodpecker
pecked the eyes out of mine, Yet it worked great the year before)
3.
2"x20" strips of plastic or mylar hung on a string. (movement and /or reflection)
4.
A pulsating lawn sprinkler that you turn on in early morn and late
afternoon.
5. Plastic netting that you hang form the roof edge to the ground.
(I don't like)
6. Big-Eyed deterrents placed in the eaves.
7. 7-1/2"dia.
shaving or cosmetic mirrors that enlarge the image. Attach to the wall
near where the damage is occurring.
8. Pinwheels or other wind-driven movement.
(string-hung pie tins)
9. Spray-on liquid repellents (I haven't tried)
Here are 2 sources:
http://www.bugspray.com/
http://www.bird-x.com/products/index.html
Other
source of info: Univ. of Neb.
http://www.ianr.unl.edu/ianr/lanco/enviro/pest/factsheets/266-95.htm
Watch
for
attempts to build nests.
Gook Luck
RobDecker
Subject: mold/mildew from humidifier
landlueb asked this question on 4/19/2000:
If a home humidifier, such as a "Hydrofogger 150", is used in conjunction with
an ozone machine in another part of the house, is there a danger of a chemical
reaction between the ozone ions and the water molecules creating a "chlorine-type"
green mist that will settle on walls, etc; promoting mold/mildew in the
home?
RobDecker gave this response on 4/19/2000:
Hello,
No, the two will not interact the way you describe.
One
of the ways an ozone machine cleans the air is by making the charged
dust particles heavier than air and thus falling. That's why it is a good idea
to use a vacuum cleaner with Hepa filtration and vacuum everywhere this charged
dust can fall. (this includes furniture, Etc.
If you turn up the humidy
too high on the humidifier, so that everything is damp including the walls,
then yes you can create mildew; but not necessarily because you were also using
the ozone machine.
Hope this helps,
Rob Decker
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Subject: Deck Fasteners and TREX
Anonymous asked this question on 4/19/2000:
I'm looking into building a deck using Trex 5/4 x 6" radius edge decking on
12" o.c. @53 angle. I'm interested in 2 types of fasteners;1) underside labor
intensive hardware such as Deckmaster (nails to side of joist) or Shadoetrack (nails
to top of joist), or 2) Topside fasteners such as EB-TY's, or DEC-Klips.
I don't think screwing stainless nails into TREX from the topside 1/4" below the
surface and then hammering in the dimple will offer a long service life since
water will freeze in the loose material and then break the encapsulation over
the screw.
Any suggestions?
RobDecker gave this response on 4/19/2000:
Hello,
I think you made a very wise decision to use TREX. As you can
tell from reading the questions in this section of AskMe.com, or any column devoted
to deck maintenance, wood decks require at minimum an annual wash and seal
with a complete re-stain every 2-5 years. The increased initial cost of TREX
is easily realized in 5-6 years in maintenance alone. Add to that the permanent
protection from termites and the savings become huge.
Before we get
to the fasteners, there is one more important matter to consider when we talk
about lifetime decks and long-term savings. Remember, because TREX is non-structural,
this lifetime decking material is going to rest on wood, a not so lifetime
material. The question then becomes; what can we do in theory to make the decks
under-carriage last at least 25-30 years? Here is what I recommend before
you start:
1. Excavate the ground below your deck area to a minimum
of 12" earth to wood. (use raised concrete tube-formed piers with a "stand-off"
base for the post or beam)
2. If you don't have sandy, well draining,
soil, provide for a slope for rainwater run-off or install a small leach-type
water drainage system.
3. You can cover the ground with a pores weed
control fabric, but do not use a typical moisture barrier as they form long
lasting puddles in the dark cool area below your deck.
4. Have the
ground below the deck treated for termites. I Recommend "Premise 75 insecticide"
by Bayer Corp. which provides micro-organism protection. (available only to licensed
pest control companies)
5. Even though all our lumber will be
12" above ground, use only "ground contact" pressure treated lumber. (.40 cca
treated is common)
6. Seal the Pressure Treated lumber with a good
oil-based semi-transparent stain. ("Cabot's Deck Stain" currently rated one of
the highest for longevity). Allow 3-4 days to dry before handling.
7.
During construction, have a small bucket of "Jasco Termine 8" (termite & fungus
protection) with a brush in it to daub on the fresh cut-ends of the Pressure
Treated lumber to maintain the protection.
Now, lets get back to the
fasteners for the deck itself. Although more expensive than galvanized, I prefer
2-1/2" to 3" stainless steel deck screws. They're stronger (I break far less)
and last longer, but galvanized are acceptable especially with the longer lasting
Dacron finishes. In addition to your screw gun, use a pilot drill with TREX.
For blind nailing I prefer the "Simpson DBT1 Deck Board Tie" system. It's
very strong, easy and inexpensive. (Available at Home Depot 50@6.95). Use 1-1/2”
screws for the clip itself, and 3” for the ‘toe-nailing’.
To see
TREX Decking used in a variety of ways, please visit my website:
www.Home-Improvement-Services.com
and go to GALLERY ; look at Bill & Sally, Alpine,
CA. None of this deck was installed with a “blind screw method”, but rather
the “countersink & pound-down the dimple method”. Going back to pound down all
the dimples takes about the same time as the jobs where we used the Simpson clip.
hope this helps,
RobDecker
RobDecker gave this follow-up answer on 4/19/2000:
Incidentally, if you would like to see the Simpson Strong-Tie DBT1 clip go
to
http://www.strongtie.com/prod_info.htm
You'll run circles around
all Deckmaster or Shadoetrack type systems and much easier and faster than
just laying out to cut the biscuits for EBTYs.
Good Luck,
Rob
Decker
Subject: OK to put wood over concrete patio?
pryan2 asked this question on 4/19/2000:
I have an old bungalow with a concrete front porch that is covered by the roof.
I'd like, for the sake of ambiance, to have a wood porch floor. Can I put
wood on top of concrete? What would keep water from getting trapped in there and
rotting the wood? What kind of wood would best? And do I attach it without having
to drill a zillion holes into really tough concrete? Thanks SO MUCH in advance
for any help.
Patty
RobDecker gave this response on 4/20/2000:
Hello Pattie,
The easiest way to cover your bungalow porch is to
first lay down 2x4 pressure treated lumber flat the length of the porch and
spaced
24 inches apart. Attach the 2x4s to the concrete about every 20 inches
with bolts through the boards into lead anchors you install in the concrete.
(See your local home center) These 2x4 treated boards will serve as the joists
in your mini-deck.
Next, nail or screw redwood 2x6 deck boards to perpendicular
to the joist. Cut the boards so that they overhang the
porch 1"
on the 3 open sides.
Tip: cut the boards and seal or stain them several
days before building the deck.
Hope this helps,
RobDecker
Subject: Timbertech vs Trex Decking
jjagiel912 asked this question on 4/21/2000:
I was all set to install TREX on my own deck until my wife saw a Timbertech
Deck. Since TREX has no grain to it, she just loved the look of Timbertech which
has a wood grain. Correct me if I'm wrong, but all the Timbertech research I've
done indicates that the drainage holes are inadequate-water pools, it gets
dirty easily because of the high profile grain pattern and its difficult to clean,
plus the stuff cracks easily. Has anyone experienced these problems? I don't
want to play the maintenance game so wood is out of the question. Does anyone
see a real problem using Timbertech? I live in Central New York where it gets
pretty cold and snowy, and the leaves are abundant. The deck is 10' from my pool
where my 3 children play all day in the summer. Because of this, I know Timbertech
offers sufficient anti-slip coefficient of friction characteristics wet-or-dry,
but does TREX? Will my kids slip and fall on TREX? All positive and negative
feedback will be appreciated.
RobDecker gave this response on 4/21/2000:
Hello,
Although I have read the brochures and looked at the samples,
I have not worked with Timbertech and it is not in widespread use in my
area. On the other hand, I have used a lot of TREX, I like working with it, and
it is the #1 alternative-to-wood decking in this area. Bearing these limitations
in mind, and given my one-sided experience with these two products, I will do
my best to give you what I think might be the pertinent pros and cons in your
application.
Both Timbertech and TREX are wood & polymer composites,
carry 10 year warranties by companies big enough to still be around to honor
them, and close enough in price - not to be a big factor. ( by my estimates, TREX
would run more, maybe 10%)
PRO TIMBERTECH:
1. Good wood-grain
appearance.
2. Tongue & groove allows for easy concealed fasteners.
3.
Lighter in weight which might be an advantage in certain applications.
PRO
TREX:
1. Clean precise 2x6 appearance
2. Ends and edges of
boards can show.
3. Like real lumber, can rip boards when different widths
needed.
4. Straight up and down spacing between boards makes sweeping easy.
CON
TIMBERTECH:
1. Must use end caps or wood border to cover
ends of planks.
2. 2X3 appearance (like 2x4, can be too busy
3. Curved
drainage slots may trap leaves making sweeping difficult.
4. Cannot
rip boards.
CON TREX:
1. Twice as heavy in weight as Redwood or
Cedar requiring more support.
2. Must buy a concealed fastener system for
blind nailing.
Both are slip resistant when wet.
TREX colors:
[3] Natural: weathers to light gray, Windsor: weathers to darker gray (like battleship),
and Woodland Brown: weathers to light red/brown.
Timbertech colors:
[1] Lightens to an attractive driftwood gray (light brown in hot, dry climates)
I don’t know about the slow drainage rate of Timbertech, the ease of
cleaning, or of any problems with cracks.
Hope this helps,
RobDecker
jjagiel912 asked this follow-up question on 4/22/2000:
RobDecker: Thanks for yor detailed responce. I think I'm going to go with TREX
and have 3 other questions:
1) Using EB-TY's, is the 3/32" clearance
between boards OK for the Northeast (Stamford, CT ares?) Trex instructions
require 1/8" whereas EB-TY's is really 1/32" short on clearance. Do you think
this will be a problem, or voide TREX's 10 year warranty?
2) Since TREX
is very heavy, I worry if my deck which was designed fro PT can handle it.
My deck is 10' deep by 40' long (My beams are 3-(2x8") all around, Deck is 6' off
the ground with 4x4 posts installed every 8' to 10'6+ of the beam. Is this suitable?
RobDecker asked for clarification on 4/22/2000:
Hello,
1.) The 3/32" is a little tight, but would probably be ok
(Most of the expansion and contraction take place in extreme hot weather) except
with the HB-TY's that's not open space. It is a 3/32" space created automatically
by a plastic spacer that runs along the bottom of the biscuit. In those areas
it is zero clearance.
If you are using 2x6 TREX, and not the 5/4"x6,
you might also look at the Strong-tie DBT1 clip. One of the advantages of
the Simpson Strong-tie DBT1 clip is that only one side of the 2x6 plank is fixed
while the other side is free to move laterally with the daily expansion & contraction.
If you would like to see the Simpson Strong-Tie DBT1 clip go to
http://www.strongtie.com/prod_info.htm
2.)
That's strong enough as
long as your 2x6 joist are not spaced farther apart than 20".
Enjoy
your deck,
RobDecker
Subject: Stanley Sharpshooter
Anonymous asked this question on 4/22/2000:
Hello Rob,
This question might sound just plain dum, but if you
can help I would appreciate it. I have a Stanley Electric Sharpshooter TRE 500
Stapler/Nail Gun, but no manual. I can use the staples without a problem, but I
cannot figure out how those nail brads work within the gun. Other words how do
you load those nail brads into the gun. I tried several ways but cannot seem to
make it work. Does the gun need a special insert that I don't have?
Thanks.....in
advance.!!
Robert E. Shelley
rs108@one.net
RobDecker gave this response on 4/23/2000:
Hello Robert,
I'm sorry I am not familier with that model of stapler.
I have written Stanley regarding your model and will post the answer here
when they contact me.
If you would like to contact them directly before
then, you can contact their customer service during business hours at:
Customer
Service - Toll Free in the USA:
Consumer Fastening Division
Tel:
800-343-9329
Fax: 800-842-9360
Hope this helps,
RobDecker
RobDecker gave this follow-up answer on 4/24/2000:
Hello Robert,
Stanley tells me you load the brads, so the point
is coming out correctly, along the SIDE of the staple chamber. The side is marked
in plastic on the nose of the stapler. Here is the exact message from Stanely:
"Hi,
You
do not need any attachment for the brads. All you need
to do is turn the tool upside down and open the chamber, then on the nose of
the tool in the plastic housing there is a mold of a brad. Load the brads head
down along the side of the chamber with the brad on it and close the chamber
slowly so that the brads don't pop out. Please give me your name and address and
I will send you out a copy of the instructions.
Thanks"
For
a copy of the instructions E-mail
Lisa Bedard:
lbedard@stanleyworks.com
Good
luck with your project,
RobDecker
Subject: New House Blues
acooke asked this question on 4/24/2000:
2/11/00 I purchased a townhouse in Charles County MD which I have yet to live
in. I have had several issues where the builder has said no work will be performed,
or they have ignored my requests for checking out a problem. While I have
a bunch of questions, this time around I have 2 which are related.
1)
Is it normal for a new home to have a sulphur smell when running warm to hot
water?
2) Is it normal for all(3) toilets, which have not been put
to full use, to have the water come up like it is going to overflow, and then,
occassionally, have a hint of sewage smell when flushing?
An overflow
happened at a neighbor's house 2 doors down and I do not wish the same at mine.
Thank
you.
RobDecker gave this response on 4/24/2000:
Hello acooke,
In answer to your questions:
1.) Yes, this is
common and should be harmless. There are two things that can cause the hot water
to temporarily have a slight odor. The first is trace amounts of the flux solution
the plumber used when soldering the copper fittings in the water supply
lines. This has a slight sulfur smell.
The second thing is the normal "burn-in
period" of the new water heater can have a slight metallic odor for the first
couple tanks.
Flush both cold and hot lines by running the water at the
kitchen sink for 15 minutes each.
This will not completely flush the water
heater.
If the smell is still strong, flush the hot water heater completely
by:
A) turning off the gas or electricity to the heater,
B) closing
the water supply valve to the heater, and
C)drain the water from the
heater using the drain valve on the side of the water heater near the base. (you
can attach a garden hose to divert the hot drained water to a desired area)
2.)
In answer to your second question, Yes.
In many of the new
common low water use "Gravity action" flush toilets the water level comes up to
a precarious 3"-4" from the rim of the bowl in normal action. Higher than this
may be a sign of construction waste or trash partially blocking your main drain
line. If this is the case, insist your Plmg or General Contractor have the lines
cleared.
First ask your neighbors to let you see the flush level on their
toilets.
Hope this helps, if you have more questions, just write
back.
RobDecker
Subject: removing flower arranging clay
ariedel asked this question on 4/24/2000:
Hi there! How might I remove flower arranging clay from the bottom of a deep
narrow vase. It may have been in there for years! I've tried using a knife, but
that didn't work. I was wondering if there might be a liquid solution that would
soften it up. what do you think?
ann
RobDecker gave this response on 4/24/2000:
Hello Ann,
I don't know about flower arranging clay, but I have
Had some luck with red clay on a carpet. I used dry cleaning fluid. It makes the
clay softened and swell and then I scraped it off with a butter knife. Perhaps
you can adapt the method somehow to the thin vase.
Hope this is of
some help,
RobDecker
Subject: Nail Brads Thanks you
rs108@..., a user from Hardware.com, asked this question on 4/24/2000:
Rob.....received your info on the loading of the nail brads in the Stanley
TRE500. I have wrote to Ms. Bedard to receive a copy of the instructions. I like
to thank you for your help, and speedy response. Have a nice day and I really
appreciate all you have done.
Sincerely,
Robert E. Shelley
RobDecker gave this response on 4/24/2000:
Thank you for your nice comments - it was my pleasure. If I can ever be of
further help, please don't hesitate to write.
RobDecker
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