Practical Katana project.
This project is the latest step in my continuing quest for usable and
affordable "chiisagatana".
The previous one was built using KC Wakizashi, but I found that blade too
short and light, and the handle didn't come out as good as I wanted it. So this
time I started with Paul Chen Practical Katana, and used better materials for
the handle.
In this case I shortened the blade (forming new tang), completely rebuilt the handle
using traditional methods and materials, and shortened the saya (adding buffalo
horn kojiri).
With 23" blade and 11" tsuka it represents my idea of "chiisagatana"
(intermediate sword between katana and wakizashi) - at least this is what
my Internet research led me to believe.
Anyway, I like the design and balance for several practical
reasons. It is quite a "healthy" and strong blade, yet the improved balance
allows for one-handed use (much better then original PK, which was way too
blade heavy).And the ability to use two-handed is still here! Besides, at this
blade length it can be used indoors - I can take a full overhead swing in my
house and clear the ceiling by a safe couple of inches.
Details on handle construction:
- 11" tsuka with poplar core (tang goes within 1" from kashira, so
it should be strong enough). It is shaped with a little "waist" in the
middle, which makes the grip surprisingly more comfortable.
- I used real same panels (though not very fine quality, with small nodules).
The wrap is black silk, and I even used those paper triangles under it! Still,
I'm obviously not very good at tsuka-maki yet...
- gold dragon menuki from Rick Barrett (plaaced in reversed position, or
gyaku-menuki, to be the under palms).
- patinated bronze dragon tsuba from Rick BBarrett. It is rather smallish (closer
to big wakizashi size), just as I wanted it.
- brass seppa (made to fit fuchi and tsuba)), edges fileworked with a round needle
file.
- I reused original fuchi and kashira (bothh blackened steel). However, the
original fuchi was just a ring or collar, so I had to make and solder in place a
copper plate (the one that has a hole for the tang to go through). And then I
needed to repatinate it, which was a challenge in itself (I used strong tee and
quite a painstaking application process)! Now it is a fully traditional, though
simple, fuchi.
