Road Rage

Road Rage

ROAD RAGE

A Topic Worth Discussing

Most of us have heard about "road rage". Did you know this is not a new or recent subject? It has been traced back to 1915, entitled: "some automobilists abuse their rights and heedlessly run over the rights of others". The perception is a driver who snaps and goes charging down the crowded highway of the 1990's. Road rage is not a recent phenomenon, and it includes all drivers and or riders. Automobilists, large and small trucks, motorcyclists, everyone and anyone.

Here are the contributing attitudes to road rage:

(1) Running over the rights of other motorists.

(2) Running red lights or jumps the gun before the light has turned green.

(3) Cuts in and out, races, and gets ahead of everybody else.

People are beginning to lose control....They get frustrated at the backups on our freeways. They get angry at other inconsiderate motorists, their tolerance level overflows. They explode. And motorists are using tons of speeding metal as deadly weapons. Polite drivers are becoming as rare as rain in August. We have a serious situation on our nations highways.

How can you combat this national problem?

(a) First, be aware that road rage exists.

(b) Know that you are not exempt from these very angry people.

Aggressive behavior has no gender. The age group most responsible for these reported acts of violence is between the ages of 18-30. There are reported happenings from middle-age people from 35-50. Since 1990, there has been over 10,000 reported acts of traffic aggression and now it has become a monumental concern to Public Safety Officials and insurance companies across our nation. Do you entertain any of these above mentioned attitudes? Please stay off the highway until you can rethink your reasoning, or maybe seek professional help to assist your decision making process.

(c) Be extra aware of these attitudes, and work at not allowing them to affect you personally. What can you do when you encounter an aggressive motorist?

(d) Keep from making direct eye contact with that person. Keep from responding to their obscene gestures.

(f) Allow them plenty of space to get out of your way.

(g) Keep from confronting or agitating them and the situation personally. Most violent acts reported have resulted in the use of fists, knivesguns and their personal vehicle as weapons used to vent their uncontrollable rage.

These people are dangerous and will stop at nothing just to prove a point. Remember the old rules of the road teachings? Be courteous to all motorists. Allow them the right-of-way. Give them a break when you think they need it by reducing speed or letting them go first at a stop sign. We are all out on the road to travel from point A to point B safely, without mayhem, and to enjoy our traveling adventures for as long as we are able to tour. Honey gets a better response than does vinegar. Defensive driving is our first line of defense against crashes.

Courtesy of Indiana Assistant District Educators: Thomas & Caroline Albin
May 1999

Return to Index

Safe Trailering

Safe Trailering

At Cabin Fever this February 1999, Jim Hodges OH ADE gave a great seminar on trailering. Here are some of the points made in the seminar. Hope you find them useful as the riding season is about to begin.

SAFE TRAILERING

Goldwingers have been pulling trailers behind their bikes for many years. The early trailers were generally homemade from various pieces and parts that ingenious bikers were able to assemble and pull behind their Wing. Now there are many vendors that offer well engineered and aerodynamic trailers that we can just buy and hook up to our scooter and take off. However, we still have a great responsibility to make sure that we are properly maintaining the trailer, properly hooking the trailer to the bike, properly loading the trailer, and properly driving the bike and trailer combination. The following points are summarized from the GWRRA Trailering seminar given by Pete Woodruff and discussions with John Preston President and CEO of Bushtec, a high end cargo trailer manufacturer.

TRAILER MAINTENANCE

Tire Pressure

Many motorcycle trailers use the small diameter tires. They should have a tire pressure marked on the side wall. These pressures are generally 35 or 65 psi. A tire with a pressure marking of 65 psi was designed for a boat trailer and probably does not belong on a motorcycle cargo trailer. You must determine the proper pressure for your trailer and your "standard load". John Preston suggests that you load you trailer as you normally ould and then take some white shoe polish and paint a four-inch stripe across the tire width. Take the trailer for a five mile drive and then look for even wear of the shoe polish across the tire. Adjust the tire pressure in two pound increments until you achieve even wear. This will then give you the maximum footprint on the ground that will give you the maximum tire life.

Wheel Bearings

Wheel bearings must be greased periodically to assure minimum friction and wear of the bearing. Some bearings have built in seals that protect the bearings from external dirt and are less likely to need frequent service. Other bearings are open to the elements and must be re packed with grease more often. Regardless, it is important that you lift the trailer off the ground and turn and shake the wheels to be sure that there is not excessive wear in the bearing surfaces and that the wheels turn smoothly and quietly.

TRAILER HOOK-UP

Hitches

Most bike trailers use the standard 1 7/8 inch or 2 inch ball coupler that are used on automobiles. Generally the coupler has an adjustable shoe on the bottom that determines how tightly the coupler attaches to the ball. The goal in this adjustment should be to have the shoe tight enough that there is no wiggle between the ball and the coupler, but not so tight as to cause binding between the ball and coupler. On receiver type hitches this adjustment is fairly easy. Just remove the hitch from the receiver and hold it in the coupler while you make your adjustments. Hitch balls should also be lubricated to prevent metal to metal contact and subsequent wear of the surfaces. This does not mean that large gobs of grease must be applied (which eventually will find its way to your new jeans pant leg), but a thin film of even a light lubricant like petroleum jelly (Vaseline) will prevent wear. An even cleaner solution is a small square of wax paper placed between the ball and the coupler to provide lubrication. Keep a supply in your trunk and use a new piece each time you hook up.

There are two schools of thought on the subject of swivel hitches. Some people feel that they are a waste of money and others feel that they can help avoid trouble in an emergency. John Preston installs them on all Bushtec trailers. His reasoning is as follow. If you have a trailer attached and lay your bike down in a parking lot (forget the kick stand?), the bike lays down almost 90 degrees and the rotation available in a regular ball and coupler is only 40 some degrees. Therefore something, either the trailer tongue or the hitch is going to have to bend to make up the difference. Either way, some permanent damage is going to occur. Also, at highway speeds, if there is something in the road like a 4 X 4 and you miss it with the bike, but one of the trailer wheels hits it, that side of the trailer is going to fly up in the air. If the ball and the coupler don't have enough rotation available to allow for that sudden flight, the rotational energy is going to be transmitted to the bike and could kick it over. The choice is, of course, up to the individual. Swivel hitches are available for most trailers.

Safety Chains

The law requires the use of them. Some states require that two chains be used. Regardless, they must be strong enough to keep the trailer attached to the bike in the event something fails in the hitch system. When using two chains they should be crossed to form a cradle to keep the trailer tongue from driving into the ground. It is also highly recommended that the bike have a mud flap on the rear tire. Not only will it help protect the trailer from road grime and stones thrown from the rear tire, but it will also prevent the tongue from hitting the rear tire in the event of a separation.

TRAILER LOADIING

Tongue Weight

The industry rule of thumb is that the tongue weight should be 10 to 15 percent of the trailer weight. Tongue weight is a direct function of the position of the cargo in the trailer. If you are carrying an ice chest on the tongue, the loaded weight of the chest must also be taken into consideration. When loading the trailer, the heaviest items should be positioned over the trailer axle. Generally you should have a standard way of loading items into the trailer. Experiment with different tongue weights and different loading techniques until you find a combination that works well for your situation The trailer should follow straight and true behind the bike with no "wagging" at any speed. Tongue weights can be measured with a bathroom scale, but must be weighed with the hitch at normal hitch height.

Trailer Weight

Your manufacturer should provide a GVWR or gross vehicle weight rating for your trailer. This is the total weight of the trailer empty weight, the cargo, and any accessories you may have added such as luggage racks, spare tire, light bars, etc. It is your responsibility to be sure that you have not exceeded the manufacturer's GVWR.Tongue Height

Trailer heights vary. Motorcycle heights vary. Hitches vary. Therefore, you must determine the proper tongue height for your combination. You should load the bike to its normal traveling condition including rider and co-rider and load the trailer to its normal traveling condition and take some measurements. Your goal is to have a one to two degree downward attitude on the trailer tongue. The reason for this is that in a hard stop, the front of the bike normally dives down and the rear of the bike raises. You want the force of the trailer to push the rear of the bike down, not help to raise it more. You might have to use some personal innovation to achieve this. You may be able to buy a taller or shorter ball, or you may have to modify the position of the coupler on the tongue, but it is important the proper height be achieved.

PULLING THE TRAILER

Pre-Ride Checks

Before you get on the bike when you have a trailer attached, you should make some pre-ride inspections. Is the coupler securely attached to the ball? Grab the tongue and pull up hard. Be sure the coupler is properly latched and secured. Check the safety chains. Make sure they are securely fastened. Open "S" hooks are not as reliable as screw type chain links or hooks with spring keepers. Check the function of the lights-marker, stop, and turn. Make sure the trailer lid is securely closed. Take a walk around the trailer and make sure all is in order.

On the Road

With today's lightweight and aerodynamic trailers, it is easy to forget that it is back there when you are cruising along with 1200 or 1500 cc's of bike. However, your stopping distance is going to be significantly increased with the 350 pounds of extra weight. You must give yourself a little extra safety margin when preparing for a stop. And don't forget the extra length when turning a corner or passing another vehicle. Always remember that the rider is ultimately liable for any damage the trailer might cause. Make sure that you have taken all the proper precautions to assure a safe ride.

Return to Index

Leathers Really are Worth the Price

Leathers

Leathers REALLY are Worth the Price

With the cold weather now coming to a close (we hope) we are beginning to get our Wings ready for the 1999 riding season. Although it is still cool to ride and since it is only April or May when we start to ride, mornings and evenings will still have cool weather. We must be prepared for this. Wearing leather is always good anytime. We are not speaking of fake leather, we are talking of good quality. Though pretty expensive, wearing leather chaps and heavier jackets can save you in a fall. There is ample proof that these provide far more than protection from the cold. In studies of "survivability" of various garment materials to a 50 MPH ride on asphalt, for example, denim lasted no more that FOUR FEET before wearing through. Kevlar, on the other hand, lasted EIGHTEEN FEET. However, standard motorcycle quality (about three times heavier than fashion jacket material) lasted EIGHTY-SIX FEET. That is more than 20 times as effective as your jeans in protecting your hide. Now we see those who think nothing of riding in short sleeve shirts or halter tops and think it is cool. If the unfortunate happens and you go down, how much protection do you have then?

Ride Safe, Ride Smart
Larry, & Carla Stiles
Ohio District Educators
October 1999

Return to Index