I installed a mid-level quality stereo system in my 9C1. I wanted something for serious tune listening, without breaking the bank or making major alterations to install it.
The biggest departure from the conventional in this system is that I have both CD and tape units in the front of the car, with the primary head unit installed in a custom built center console. The cool thing about this arrangement, in addition to having both CD and tape, is that the head unit is easier to reach. With your arm on the armrest, your fingers naturally fall right on the volume and tuning buttons without looking down. The only disadvantage is that when you do have to look down, your eyes travel farther from the road.
I used the speakers, amp and sub out of my 94 9C1. The only thing different is the head units and wiring arrangement. On the old system I had two tuner head units and switchs between them for each speaker, which fed high level inputs to the amp. This time, I took a simpler approach (simple is better!). I only have one tuner head, and a CD slave unit which inputs to the tape head (has changer controls for Kenwood changer, but will take any RCA input with an adapter). An RCA feeds the amp.
Kenwood KRC208S tape/receiver (2001 model) - I initially bought a more expensive model, but found that the display was hard to see in the daylight, mounted horizonally. The cheaper model's display shows up in the daylight much better, and since I don't use the tape that much anyway, the cheaper model doesn't bother me.
Sony CDX-1000RF cd player (2001 model) - What I like about this deck is that it has a very plain, stocklike look. I really dislike the trend in stereos to be spacy, angular and multicolored. I think the idea is so that they stand out, but I prefer something subtler that looks like it belongs in the dash. A receiver model would also have worked fine, but it would have been redundent. The deck I bought was defective and had to be returned because it wouldn't eject cd's. The present one also has this problem occasionally, but as long as I don't eject between songs it seems to be fine. I've had no skipping problems and the sound is clean using the RCA output (designed also with FM output)
MTX RT4180X 4-channel amplifier (1999 model) - 54w rms per channel @ 4ohms, 120w bridged. A cool thing about MTX amps is that they test each amp and give you its actual output, which is usually more than the rated power (rated 45w). This model has continuously adjustable crossovers, which is a cool thing since their newer models at this price level don't have this anymore. The two front channels power the front speakers, the two rear channels are bridged to power the subwoofer. This has been a good amp, very clean. Made in the USA (locally in Phoenix in fact), a good thing. MTX website
CDT HD-52 5.25" component front speakers (1999 model) - If you're going to spend money on any one part of your stereo, the speakers are the way to go. These are serious speakers. Not inexpensive, but worth it. They sound really sweet. Also made in the USA. Check out their website
JBL GT1000 10" subwoofer (1999 model) - This is a fairly inexpensive sub, but I calculated the bass response from the T/S parameters on a number of different models, cheap and expensive, and this one came out better than most by a good margin. I don't have alot of subwoofer experience, but I believe the sound quality I get out of it is very good. The system is set up with a single sub mounted in a ported box I built exactly to the specifications of this speaker. Also made in the USA. JBL website
Rear Speakers are stock. I prefer a front biased system, so the rear speakers are for fill only. This car had the radio delete option, which deletes the radio, but leaves the speakers, antenna and wiring in the car. So since the original speakers had never been used and car is from a mild climate area, I figured they would do fine for the rear.
I also put a pair of speakers in the back of the center console for the rear passengers. I had an extra set of 3.5" speakers and the front speaker output from the tape deck wasn't being used, so I placed those so that on those rare occasions when I have rear passengers and we are actually listening to stereo, it will give them a bit more sound. It actually isn't very noticable, but what the heck.
I did alot of research first
into approaches and components, then alot of research to find the best
prices on suitable gear. I got really good prices on everything except
the CDT speakers. These I could only get direct from the company at regular
price, but they're worth it. Sweet
speakers! A useful book I used was The Car Stereo
Cookbook by Mark Rumreich.
Both front seats, rear set bottom, front door panels and the main dash panel all had to be removed. I found a hole in the firewall that the PD thoughtfully drilled for me to run the amp power cable through. By the battery, I found a neat 9C1 feature: a bolt wired directly to the + battery terminal to hook electric equipment to. I ran the power cable down the right side of the car to the trunk. I ran input and output wires down the left side of the car.
The CD is in the dash. Since GM wants to be unique in the shape of its stereo's, it required a bit of finagling and cutting to get the deck to not stick out from the dash. If you cut part of the vertical plastic support behind the radio, a DIN size stereo slips right in. The tape deck is in the custom made center console.
The door speakers also took a bit of deliberate installation since the standard speakers are 4X6. A round peg/square hole issue. This isn't as bad as a square peg/round hole, so I simply mounted the speakers with 3 screws instead of 4, which so far has worked fine. I also took off the standard screens from the speaker grill and put tan uphosltery around the speaker. It looks sharp. The tweeters I mounted on the door panel just above the speaker grilles. The component set crossovers are mounted in the trunk next to the amp.
The amp is mounted on a base cut to fit on the right wall of the trunk. This is covered with standard gray car-stereo-style carpet. I built a ported speaker box from 1/4" MDF of the recommended size and port diameter/length for the subwoofer.
I'm very happy with the system. It's got good power, clean sound, good imaging, reasonable staging and enought bass for the music I like (mostly rock). It's front biased. The rear speakers are straight out of the head unit just for rear fill. This has the added benefit of allowing the rear passengers not to be inordinately deafened by the rear speakers. If the front passengers can hear each other, then the rear passengers can hear the front. I also enjoy having the tape deck. Some of my older music is on tape and on long trips, I can listen to books on tape.
Cost
The whole system, including things I bought previously for my other car, cost aproximately $1000. This is with all installation work done by myself.
I note what components are made in the USA because I believe
in buying american made, when possible. In addition to the economic reasons,
I also think that for quality-dependent things like stereo components,
american made really tends to be better quality. I want to buy components
that are made by people that could actually buy these things for themselves
and understand what they are making.
