N.O.S "STEALTH" Installation Guide

INTRODUCTION

"Easy to install", "bolt on 200 hp in 2 hours", "bolt on your new system and enjoy it out of the box". I am sure you have read/heard these claims before. They tease you and inflate your ego... kind of like that bombshell blonde.. err ;-). Well for some reason it never works that way. Maybe it is just me and I am stricken with some inexplicable malady. If you believe that stop reading NOW, and go slap yourself a few times for having such evil thoughts about the author. Heh okay on with a li'l preachin'.

The so originally named "Materials List" above is divided into four sections.. doh.. Well the reason I did it that way is I regretfully realize all of you might not want to do the install exactly as I did and since I am such a kind hearted fellow, I would like this guide to still be as helpful as possible (awwww). Word of advice: before actually _doing_ anything read the entire instruction manual supplied with the kit and this document. The measurements of the wire lengths are just estimates, I suggest you measure before cutting. Fasten all wire looms containing N2O lines, vacuum lines, _wires_ (gasp), or anything else, down with black zip-ties so they don't flop around and interfere with moving parts. When taping the ends of wire looms use high quality tape and do not wrap too tightly or when the tape gets hot it will let go and unravel.

MOUNTING THE BOTTLE

The kit specifically designed for the f-bodies (5176) suggests mounting the bottle in the trunk floor. For those of you who care about drilling holes in your beast, hiding the system, or using your t-tops without removing the bottle, this task is no longer facile (I refuse to use the "e" word). I used the spare tire compartment. First disconnect the speaker wire, remove the cover, and finally remove the spare tire and jack (I know, I know... carry a bottle of fix-a-flat). Next, procure the cardboard box, hacksaw, rubber bottle valve washer, bottle valve adapter, N2O bottle, bottle brackets, 5/8" plywood, aluminum stock, a drill with 5/16" and 1/4" bits and 4 5/16" bolts and 4 1/4" bolts. Before you worry about installing the bottle install the washer and adapter on the bottle. Having accomplished that place the brackets on the bottle, get a friend (pay someone) and have him/her lower the assembly into the well. Cut a strip of cardboard off of the box and crease it in the proper locations so it will make an "_|" and slide below the bottle bracket and so that there is enough material to poke a hole and bolt through the cardboard and through the unoccupied hole in the power antenna bracket. Do the same procedure for the rear power antenna bracket hole and rear bottle bracket. Now measure the distance between the cardboard pieces. Place the brackets on the piece of plywood locating the holes in the distance measured before, mark the holes. Mark opposing side holes through the brackets and then drill all marked holes with the 5/16" bit. Now get the aforementioned "friend" and have him/her lower the wood/bracket assembly into the well. Cut 4 strips of cardboard and bend them to fit as before on the passenger side with ( _| ) shapes and the driver side with ( ''''''''|__ ) shapes. Transfer the cardboard pieces to aluminum by stretching them out (still maintaining the creases) for length. After marking the bends place the piece of cut aluminum in the vice and bend along the marks (leave about 2 mm of space between the mark and vice edge to compensate for the material in the bend.) When you have the four bracket made position them where they will go and mark through the holes in the wood/brackets (I used a small screwdriver) then mark through the antenna holes. Install the brackets with 5/16" hardware. Mark the undrilled holes in the left (driver) side brackets on the top edge of the spare well, keep the holes near the edge or you will run into interference with the gas tank and both you and I know we don't want that!! ;-) Tighten it up and give yourself a slap on the back. Careful though, it has been proven that too much of this activity not only causes more frequent visits to the chiropractor but is looked down upon by the opposite sex. And both you and I know this car thing can't compete with that… well not evenly. I took bracket assembly out at this point and gave it a few coats of matte black spray paint. It looks very professional for those extreme perfectionists like myself. Mount the bottle, stand back and revel in its beauty. Check your hair in its shiny blue side... Ok enough... don't you want to know how I ran the line?

RUNNING THE MAIN FEED LINE

What do you do when the dealer equipped with lift or the agile inspector looks below the car and sees a nice shiny braided line running the length of the car. Hopefully, if you run the line like I did you won't have to worry about the answer to that question. Fortunately this task is not as daunting as the bottle install. Obtain the large roll of 4AN (the bigger one genius) braided line, electrical tape, screwdriver, etc. Attach one end to the bottle (do not tighten at this point as it is a waste of time). Remove the trunk enclosure flap by popping it out of it's socket on each side. Get it out of your way. Fold the backseat down. Tape the end of the line with electrical tape so you don't get carpet fuzz, glue, or miscellaneous junk in the system. Lift the carpet a bit and begin to run the line under the carpet. Don't think you can daintily feed the line in the correct location with the tips of your fingers via the end of the line. You have to get down and dirty with it. Kneel on the folded down back seat and grab a hold of the head of the snake. Make sure you start outside the plastic piece that holds the carpet down back here. Run your hand/line down trying as much as possible to remain in the corner. When you get near the major bend, stop and pray, this is difficult. Take your weight off the seat and lift the bottom of the seat with your left arm and press down on the line with your right hand. Once you think you are close enough remove the plastic interior piece that runs along the door jamb. It is held in by 4 or five Phillips screws. Move the seat to give you room. The screw that is exactly in the wrong place where no matter how many directions you move the seat it is always in the way. I used the bit from a magnetic screw driver and turned it by hand. Thankfully it wasn't that tight. If it was the pliers (I know HACK) were ready. I had already tried a 1/4" socket and wrench on the bit and there wasn't room. A 1/4" box wrench would have worked nicely (I couldn't find it). Anyway, it was relatively loose so it worked. Remove the panel and pull the carpet from under the rubber/plastic piece. Pull the carpet from under the plastic piece rear of the one you just removed. Close your eyes, reach around for the end of the line, AHH there it is. Pull it through and you are almost home free. Feed a lot of the slack in the line behind the carpet to your new opening. Now for a small pain...clearing the seatbelt holster, push and pull and dork with the carpet long enough to get it through. There is a bunch of wires under there to get in the way. Feed the line again and get out of the car and off your knees/side/face and stretch. Do a few jumping jacks… touch your toes… . Now with a refreshed body get back down on your knees/side/face and remove the plastic piece under the glove-box by the two push clips, and the piece along the door post by simply pulling it loose. Run the line under the carpet to where the carpet ends on the firewall… press it through the black goo glue junk. Get out of the car and open the hood. Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the computer and pull it out of it's hole being careful to get the wiring loom and vacuum line out of the way. See the little grommet that the wires from the computer go through? Pull that little sucker out of there. Now go back into the car and feed a bit of the braided line through the hole into the engine compartment. Get out and get back in a few times to pull the slack into the engine compartment. Get a knife and slit the grommet near the side in a small + fashion. Don't make it too big, test fit and cut a little more, again, again, again, there ;) . Now replace the grommet over the line in the hole, make sure the line is still under the carpet and replace the carpet and all plastic pieces that your removed. If you are going to do the wiring next hold off on the piece below the glove compartment. Get out and lay on the ground. Look underneath the car and laugh hysterically, wipe that big smile off your face though before your mother begins to worry what you do during the nights...

SOLENOID AND REGULATOR MOUNTING

Though a smooth-talker might be able to pass a bit of wiring or maybe even the blue/brass fuel regulator tee as factory, not even James Bond could pass those stainless steel solenoids with N.O.S proudly emblazoned across them on anyone who is somewhat auto-aware. So the solution is obvious. Install them under the battery tray (weren't you thinking the same? ;-) ). Before you install them on the vehicle there are a few steps outlined in the manual for hooking the solenoids, bracket, solenoid tee, 1/8"- 3AN fitting (in replacement of the -3 AN spray nozzle line), N20 filter, and N2O regulator (commonly referred to as the blue thingamajig) up. Obtain these parts, the Teflon paste, 3/8 bolt (washered), 3/8" spiked washer, 3/8" nut (washered), the aluminum stock, -4AN union, and the 3ft -4AN line extension, and a 10" x 10" piece of roofing rubber and follow the manual instructions. When you have the first solenoid threaded into the tee and try and get the second one tight as well and lined up and it just won't work try this. Turn the other solenoid 180 degrees from the first and thread it on there, rotate till tight and if it doesn't come out try 90, then 270, and then places in between. I FINALLY got it so it is possible without over-tightening the -AN fittings... Turn the NOS regulator barbed fitting which you installed previously and rotate the regulator until it is parallel to the solenoids pointing up. Obtain a piece of the aluminum stock and bend it in 90 degrees. Attach one end per drilling and bolt/nut to the bracket. Drill the other end for a 3/8" bolt. Now lay down and remove the million 10 mm and 8mm bolts that secure the black plastic panel on the passenger side. Also remove three of the right-most radiator scoop bolts. Pull the assembly down and dislodge the spring clip.. now pull 'er out. See all of that empty room... it's like the factory intended it ;). Before you jump in there and install that baby I would skip down to the wiring section and refer to the schematic. Wire the two of the four wires (power) together with a spade type male connector, run the wire from the first solenoid (with the feed line filter on it) along with about 3 ft of wire to an eye hole connector (around 1/8") Drill a 1/8" hole in the center of the aluminum bracket you made. Attach the ground wire/extension eyehole with a small nut and bolt with a spiked washer. Splice another 3 ft extension on to the second solenoid remaining wire. Temporarily gather all of the wires going towards the engine compartment and loops a bit of electrical tape around them. Run all wires out of the compartment and into the main engine compartment through the same area the feed line is. Now that it is wired, there is a slotted bolt hole just to the side (near the fender) of the battery put your 3/8" bolt (washered would be best) through and hold your bracket up with one hand, thread the nut on the bolt with your other (put the spiked nut between the aluminum and the bracket surface)... try and hold the bolt down with your third hand (actually a socket and wrench will work... run the main N2O feed line (covered with 3/8" loom) through the gap between the battery bracket and the fender. Run the wires from the solenoids along the feed line as well. To connect to the solenoids you will probably need the line extension, I needed about 6-8 inches. I already had a 3 ft piece made up for the prior installation so I used this in addition with the -4AN union and coiled the extra line around that black coolant reservoir tank container below the battery. Tighten the assembly in place, rotating if necessary for clearance. Install a 1/4" bolt through a hole you poked in the 10 x 10 square of roofing rubber, poke the bolt through the hole next to the slotted hole you mounted your solenoid bracket in. Thread a nut on the other side from the top. Look to your left. See the unoccupied 1/8" hole at the top of one of those plastic horns? Poke a 1/8" bolt through here. Poke a hole in the rubber with your knife and push the rubber onto the bolt. Thread a nut on and hand tighten both nuts with a socket. Now it is also water-safe. Get out from under the car and look down towards the solenoids. If you can still see them a bit I assure you once you put all of the loom covers and the panel below on to cut the light you won't see them.

SPRAY NOZZLE INSTALLATION

WIRING INSTRUCTIONS

This is the part that requires more patience and care than skill. Few words of advice: unhook the two harness plugs on the fender and the black plastic vacuum line that crosses over here and always gets in the way when removing the computer. Mount the relay under the left-most (passenger side) 10 mm bolt that retains the computer. Cut all excess of the wires and use splice connectors between them. I ran a short 1/4" loom over the orange wire between the red plastic positive outlet cover and the 1/2" loom. Replace the factory harness plugs and vacuum line over your harnesses. Hook the wiring up according to the schematic with these additions.

WOT MICROSWITCH INSTALLATION

I mounted the micro switch on the lower linkage bracket bolt and then ground it using a spiked washer and a eye hole connector to the same bolt. At WOT I used the little knob on the throttle bracket to engage the switch. It takes a lot of bending and experimenting with the supplied WOT switch bracket to get it right. I ran the other wire in a 1/4" loom under the injector wires and behind the motor. I had already had like the 4 ft section from the prior install so I ran it all the way behind the motor and to just about where the computer bracketry is. I covered the wire with the Corvette fuel rail covers. I have heard claims that the switch will not hold up and to switch to a magnetic reed switch. I might just do this and If I do I will add to this document later.

FUEL REGULATOR TEE INSTALLATION

FUEL PSI SAFETY SWITCH INSTALLATION

After looking at this piece and what it would require I changed my mind about fooling with it more than once...( kind of like that mysterious girl you meet at a party, with alcohol, I *hear*, you change your mind a bit less ;) ) Well I finally decided too, especially since most of the juiced f-body list decides not to install it. Well, finally the thoughts of a blown motor via fuel pump failure overpowered me. First obtain the 90 deg. -4 AN FE -4AN fitting, the -4AN FE connector, 4AN to 1/8" gauge adapter, safety switch, wire, 2 eyehole connectors, Teflon paste, and a valve stem tool. Climb up on top of the engine and surround the shrader valve with rags (next to the fpr with a black plastic cap) remove the black cap, insert the valve tool and depress the needle valve to relieve the pressure. Now unscrew the needle valve. Put it in a safe place as your fuel injection is as worthless as an icecube in antartica without it if you ever decide to take off the N.O.S. Attach the 90-degree male end to the female (the way it was meant to be ;) ) connector and the gauge adapter. Apply Teflon paste and thread the pressure valve into the 1/8" female (try and keep the screw connectors facing down). Hook 2 3 ft or so wires to eyehole connectors and connect each to the sensor with spiked washers. Climb back up on the engine and begin to thread the assembly onto the shrader valve. When it begins to get tight and you can't rotate the assembly on the swivel, position the assembly about 45 degrees pointing towards the alternator and battery. Then tighten the swivel and the assembly will go with it... hopefully it will end up somewhat straight ;). put a piece of 1/4" loom on the two wires going straight down and then join the other 1/4" loom with the WOT switch wire in it. Hopefully leaving everything behind the motor. Use some black electrical tape on the join of the looms and at the ends.

INTERIOR ACTIVATION SWITCH INSTALLATION

CONCLUSION