Being a Penguin enthusiast, we (read I) decided to plan our next holiday around a trip to Phillip Island in Australia. A friend told me this was the place to go if you really liked penguins. As if having sponsored your favorite penguin in Blijdorp-Zoo for years and years in my hometown and having a zillion penguins (fake ones that is) sitting around your house doesn't count as being stereotyped as a penguin-lover...

Phillip Island is situated about 150 kilometers South from Melbourne. We rented a car from Melbourne Airport (complete with 2 babyseats, which is required by law in Australia, taxis don't take you if you don't have a "capsule" and very few of the taxis come equipped with one). We stayed at the Continental Spa Suites which had a big Jacuzzi style bathtub where we all fitted in. Our (then) two year old son Adriaan liked it so much that he had about 3 baths a day.

But now about those penguins. The Fairy Penguin (Eudyptula Minor) breeds on Phillip Island. It is the smallest penguin of the world. From the Penguin Reserve you can watch them emerge from the ocean at sunset and cross the beach to their sand dune burrows. It's a natural experience and the Penguin Reserve makes sure that the visitors do not disturb the penguins in their daily routine. An elevated boardwalk and a set of concrete steps in a sealed-off area make sure the visitors don't bother them. It is forbidden to go outside this area and it is also forbidden to use flashlight while taking photographs or videotaping (which is a pity, because even with a 1600 ASA film almost all my pictures came back unrecognisable). Numerous guards make sure that you don't. These guards must have been hired because of their ability to look stern and forbidding. Announcements about all this are made in at least 6 languages so you can't pretend that you don't understand the rules (although a small group of Japanese tourists tried to make the guard believe the opposite, but he soon gave them a stern and forbidding look to stop them from flashing).

At around 8.30 PM it happens. While you're sitting on the concrete steps freezing your toes of (did I tell you yet that you have to put on warm clothes? Lots of them! For Jan this meant that he had to buy a warm sweater, because his luggage was stranded in Singapore and didn't make it to our hotel till two days later despite the reassuring Qantas voice telling him "no worries, mate") a big group of penguins are spotted swimming in the ocean (if you remember to bring your binoculars, which we did). They split up into smaller groups from around 5 to 30 penguins and try to waddle onto the beach. It takes them a few times and with every wave they are thrown back into the ocean till they finally make it.

The funny thing was that if not all of them (of that small group) make it onto the beach, the ones that are already standing and waiting for the others, go back into the ocean too and struggle to get back onto that same spot of beach a few seconds later. Whether this was because they wanted to give the audience their money's worth remains a mystery. They only waddle across the beach with the whole group. As soon as one starts of running the rest just follows. If you are lucky enough to sit in front (or you just came early and well prepared) they run past you within a distance of less than 2 meters. Within about an hour all the penguins are out of the ocean.

The sunset only lasts a few minutes so by now it is totally dark. This is the time to follow them from the elevated boardwalk to their burrows. You can not only see them; you can hear them as well when they are calling out to their mate. Adriaan is still saying "kwak-kwak". I had the experience of seeing one up close without glass or anything between us, as one penguin got lost and tried to cross over the boardwalk. It did take a guard and me to hold back the enthusiastic group of Japanese tourist though who thought this was a great opportunity to touch a penguin. Especially this one guy who was making fun of me because I was wearing the Penguin Parade rain poncho (very handy against the wind because I didn't bring a jacket and the kids got all the blankets...). Like he was not looking silly with his cheap hotel showercap on his head!

We went in December which is the chick raising season for these penguins. This period lasts from August till February. The moulting season is from January till March. The nest building from June till November. The egg laying from July till November. But it doesn't really matter in what season you go because the penguins still come out of the ocean every night and go back early morning. Although I can imagine that sitting on the concrete steps in the Australian winter can not be what you dreamed of of doing on your holiday. The Penguin Reserve is open daily from 10 AM and has a lot more to offer than just the Penguin Parade. It has various educational displays and videotapes. Or a simulated underwater journey where you can see how the penguins find their food and evade predators. And of course there is a giftshop with a lot of neat stuff and a restaurant. The lady in the restaurant was totally amazed when I asked for a iced water to go with my coffee and she said I was the first person ever to ask for something cold after the Penguin Parade. Apparently people only want hot things to bring their body temperature back to normal. All revenue generated at this facility is re-invested into the Penguin Reserve for the benefit of the penguins. And if you're not into penguins or you want to do something else besides being engrossed in penguins on Phillip Island; there are several other things to do. There is a Koala Conservation Center, a Wildlife Garden with koalas, kangaroos, wombats and emus etc. You can rent horses and take a trail ride. You can go to the Nobbies and take a tour around a small island just of the coast that is inhabited by seals. Or you can visit the Grand Prix circuit. Or you can just sit on the beautiful beach and enjoy a barbecue and pretend it's your holiday. No worries mate!

Phillip Island Nature Park, PO Box 97, Cowes, Phillip Island 3922, Victoria, Australia Telephone: 03 - 59568300 and Fax: 03 - 59568394.

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