Day 11. Saturday 3rd October

Getting up early this morning, I looked out of the window to be greeted by a misty day, with low cloud partially obscuring the tops of the skyscrapers to the east of the hotel. I needed to take one last photo to finish a film off to be able to load a fresh one for the day ahead, so got one of the skyline with the sun just starting to dissipate the haze. After a quick breakfast, eggs benedict and coffee for me, we readied ourselves for the 265 mile journey to San Luis Obispo.

Our route out of San Francisco took us along the US 101 through San Jose and past Gilroy, the garlic capital of America. Here, Hilary informed us, the residents annually hold a festival to celebrate this pungent smelling plant. Everything that can be imagined is flavoured with garlic for this week, from garlic ice cream to garlic perfume. Only in America!

Leaving US101, onto highway 1, we stopped for a while at the Monterey Cannery Row. Here, I got my first chance to dip a toe in the Pacific Ocean, albeit with my trainers and socks still on. In the bay on a rock, and on the beach, sea lions rested from their labours, and divers and water sports enthusiasts moved in and out of the water. Hilary told us that sometimes sea otters could be seen, but not today. Seabirds of various types flapped about the rocks on the eastern end of the bay.

Leaving Monterey, we drove round the coast section of the 17 Mile Drive. The coastal scenery here is magnificent, however in winter the area is dreadfully exposed to the elements, the homes here being triple glazed. Stopping on the beach, opposite Seal Rock and Bird Rock. Here, I got only a few feet away from a seagull chick and took some superb photos, even its parent didn't seem to mind.

Carrying on round the coast and passing some of the most exclusive homes that money, and influence can buy, we arrived in the Pebble Beach golf area. On a brief stop here, although I didn't get off the coach, a couple of the gentlemen with us did so, one buying a sweater and the other a golf ball, both very expensive.

After Pebble Beach, we drove to Carmel, the town where Clint Eastwood owns property and was once mayor. After parking up, a traffic cop came round and marked the coach tyre, Marvin told us that the waiting time is strictly enforced. Homes here start at $1,000,000 and the shopping area is among the most up-market that I've yet seen. The shopping mall near where the coach parked had a good selection of eating places. We stopped in a cafe/bar, ordered a light snack and watched TV and the other occupants of the establishment (yes, people watching.)

After Carmel we drove south along the coast road, highway 1, stopping for a few minutes at Hurricane Point. This projection from the road was aptly named, as the stiff wind blowing us about intimated at the ferocity to come during winter storms. The number of Mazda MX5 (Miatas in the States) along this road amazed me, until I thought that the twisting road, with its excellent surface, is ideal for the type of automobile.

Further down the coast, after passing Hearst San Simeon State Historical Site, the home of the 20's tycoon William Randolph Hearst, we stopped at a beach. Here purpose built barbecue posts were conveniently situated near the parking bays, with a fishing tackle shop close by. A brief walk led to a pier from which the sands, typical of my preconceived ideas of the typical Californian beach, curved away.

Back onto highway 1 for the short journey to San Luis Obispo, population 34,250, we passed Cal Poly, more popularly known as Cow Poly due to its emphasis on the agricultural disciplines. We also passed the Madonna Inn, famous for the 'Flintstone' like gas station outside, and for the weird and wonderful decoration and design of the rooms. Each has the main colour of pink, and various novel features such as concealed plumbing appearing to be waterfalls and the like.

Arriving at the Travelodge and enquiring of a good place to eat, the lady on the desk told us that the Apple Farm Restaurant, a couple of minutes up Monterey Street, was worth trying. The fact that I wanted a light meal prompted her to give us a useful tip: A restaurant will always split the meal onto two plates if requested.

Reaching the restaurant at 7:10, we were asked to wait for a table to become available, after a probable wait of 25 minutes. This being agreeable to us, we walked round the shop for a quarter of an hour. This shop had the greatest concentration of olde-worlde type gifts we'd ever seen, all first-rate quality. At 7:35 we were called to our table and ordered a turkey pot pie to split between the two of us, a soft drink or two followed and by a couple of Budweisers, along with iced water. Our appetites being greater than expected, we asked for a second helping of this delicious pie, then ordered a dessert each, strawberry shortcake, with ice cream. When these arrived, they were the biggest desserts we'd seen, I sat at the table and eat as much as I could, but it seemed to grow. During the meal, a customer, who was celebrating a birthday was entertained in the most delightful way by the whole ensemble of waiters trooping in singing 'Happy Birthday to You' and surrounding the table - a really nice touch.

At 9.00 we left after a wonderful meal in relaxing, homely surroundings and made the short walk back to the Travelodge and bed.


To Day 12

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