The areas that require attention on an inboard or stern drive are the water
pumps, engine block, exhaust manifold, oil coolers, and the drive unit. 

Most stern drive and inboard boats have two water pumps. There is the circulation
pump (just like the one on a car) and the sea water pump. Some sea water
pumps are built into the outdrive and some are driven by the belt on the front of the
engine. To clear the water from a pump in the outdrive, lower the unit after the boat
is out of the water and turn over the engine. Do not start the engine. If it fires up,
shut it off immediately. The engine only needs to crank over for a couple of
seconds for the pump to clear. If the sea water pump is run from the engine, there
will be an intake hose coming from the water intake and an outlet hose. Loosen
the clamp on the hose. Loosen the fan belt, then spin the pulley a couple of times
to let water flow out. The same should be done for the circulation pump.

The engine block has drains on both sides. Most often, the drains have petcocks
installed. All you have to do is to open the petcocks and let the water drain.
However, with age, engines build up rust inside the water jacket. That sludge can
block the petcock. To ensure complete drainage, use a small tool (an ice pick
works great) in the drain opening to clear trapped rust. Keep clearing the path until
water stops flowing when you insert the pick.

The manifolds will also have drains on them. Open the petcocks on the manifolds
and use the ice pick to keep the drains clear until all the water is out. Some
manifolds have more than one drain per side; make sure you know where they all
are.

The drive unit will also have a heat exchanger. For inboards, it is in the form of a
transmission cooler; for stern drives, it is an oil cooler for the power steering
system. Because there are so many different configurations for these systems, it
is best to have a dealer or boat mechanic show you how to drain these units. 

Time to winterize your boat

By Mike Jensen

Here's a handy checklist to follow for winterizing your boat:

Add fuel stabilizer. Add a good fuel stabilizer to your fuel tank, in the proportions
recommended by the product manufacturer. I like to do this before I take my boat out for my last fishing trip of the year. This ensures that the stabilizer is thoroughly mixed and has run through the system, including fuel hoses and separators. Fuel stabilizer keeps your fuel from breaking down during the winter and creating varnish in your carburetors or fuel injectors. 

Change gearcase oil. Drain the oil and refill with a product approved for your motor.
Make sure you check for water in the oil as you drain it-if there's water mixed in with it, the oil will look white and milky. If water has leaked into your oil lines, you will need to have your seals replaced at your dealership. This is an important maintenance item, because if water is present in your gear case, it can freeze and crack over the winter. 

Fog the cylinders. Fogging the cylinders with fogging oil helps to prevent rust during
the off season. It also ensures proper lubrication when you start your motor the first time next spring. Make sure to follow the instructions in your owner's manual for this
procedure. 

Take care of your batteries. Remove and charge your boat batteries now, and
periodically re-charge them throughout the winter. Idle batteries will drain over time. 

Repack your trailer's wheel bearings. While you're at it, check for wear, too, and
replace bearings and seals if you note any signs of wear. 

Grease the zerks that lubricate the steering and tilt shafts. 

Store your motor properly. Reduce the risk of rusting your hydraulic cylinders by
storing your motor in a vertical position. 

Be Safe, Save Money: Winterize Your Boat Now

Boat owners can save money and frustration if they take time now to winterize their boats. Another cold, wet winter is forecast for Oregon, which can wreak havoc on improperly stored boats and motors. The Oregon State Marine Board, Oregon's recreational boating agency, has put together some winterizing tips to help protect your boat through the coming season. 

Your Boat

The best place to store your boat for the winter is ashore. The bulkhead, keel and motor are the critical areas needing support. Cradles work best, but don't store your boat on a cradle that was designed for a different model. 

If you store your boat in the water, close all through-hull fittings, gatevalves and seacocks. Do not close cockpit drains. Plug exhaust ports. Check your boat occasionally to make sure lines are secure, bumpers are in place, and the bilge is dry. 

Cover the boat. Using a frame is best, but plastic works too. Make sure you leave vents in it to allow condensation to escape. Allow for drainage if you're storing outside. 

Add non-toxic anti-freeze to water tanks, toilets and septic holding tanks. Never use engine anti-freeze in a freshwater system. 

Remove electronic equipment, important documents and other valuables that could tempt thieves. 

Your Engine

Drain the cooling system and add anti-freeze. 

Disconnect the battery and store in a warm, dry place. If you have to leave it on board to operate an alarm or bilge pump, fill battery cells with distilled water and fully charge it so it doesn't freeze. Apply petroleum jelly to clean terminals to prevent corrosion. 

Oil: Drain and replace the engine, transmission and outdrive oil. Replace gear oil in outdrives. Use internal oil fogger while the engine is warm to prevent corrosion. 

Top off fuel tanks, leaving a little room for expansion. Add a fuel stabilizer. 

To keep water from collecting in outdrives, leave them in the down position. 

Your Trailer

Rust spreads easily, so inspect your trailer before storing. Sand off and prime any rust spots you find. 

Check tire inflation and brakes and brake fluid. Consider raising the trailer onto blocks to take stress off the tires and suspension. 

Lubricate all rollers, pivot points, the winch, and the coupler. 

Look for signs of cracking or metal fatigue. Tighten bolts and screws and inspect the electrical system for worn wires or loose connections. The bulb bases inside taillights can be sprayed with WD-40 to keep moisture out. 

Protecting your boat now against the extremes of winter will save you time and money in the long run.

Bundle Up Your Boat for Winter Lay-Up by Ken Mangano
(taken from the Water Skier, September 1991, pp. 52-3,55)

As the skiing season comes to an end in the northern regions of the country,
it's time to make plans to winterize your ski boat and prepare your ski gear
for lay-up.

A little work now will protect your valuable equipment through the winter
and make for a smooth launch next spring when the potent sting of the ski
bug makes maintenance and repair work almost unbearable.

Southern skiers also can use this typically slow time in their skiing
schedules to perform annual maintenance that northern skiers execute as part
of the winterizing process. Throughout the following descriptions, the
symbol ``SS'' indicates procedures applicable to all boaters regardless if
their boat will be subjected to freezing weather or a prolonged period of lay-
up (over 60 days).

Since high performance boats and engines are constantly pushed to their
limits in stressful skiing applications, ``An ounce of prevention
[preventative maintenance in this case] is worth a pound of cure.''

You should familiarize yourself with your boat, motor and ski gear. Look at
it, touch it, smell it and listen to what it tells you. Preventative maintenance
and an awareness of how the equipment looks, sounds, smells and feels
when it is operating at peak performance are critical to intercepting problems
while they are still minor. Systematic checks and evaluations of your
equipment before, during and after use will keep any problems under
control and add to your sense of security on the water, whether at the helm,
in the observer's seat or at the end of the tow rope.

Winterization and annual maintenance procedures for inboard and
inboard/outboard boats:

Oil Change (SS)

Brad Johnson, customer service manager for MasterCraft Boats, stresses
that an oil change is one of the most important aspects of engine
maintenance and winterization. Acids can build-up in used oil and cause
corrosion if allowed to remain in the engine during storage.

While the boat is still in the water or with a motor-flushing kit in place,
warm the engine to normal operating temperature. (Persons who operate
their boats in salt, brackish or ``dirty'' water should use a freshwater flush
kit throughout these processes to rid the system of contaminants.) Next,
change the oil and oil filter. If your boat is not equipped with a ``quick-
change'' oil system and the oil pan plug is inaccessible, oil may be drained
with a suction pump through the dip-stick tube. To prevent oil from spilling
into the bilge when removing the filter, place a small drain pan or cardboard
box lined with a plastic bag in the bilge under the oil filter; it'll make for
an easy cleanup.

When changing the oil, pour approximately one-half quart of oil directly
into the new filter before mounting. This will eliminate the lag-time for the
new oil to work through the filter at start-up and insure proper lubrication.
Also moisten the filter gasket with a light coating of clean oil to insure a
good seal; do not over-tighten the filter. After the filter contacts the engine
block tighten only one-half turn more by hand.

Re-start the engine to circulate the new oil, then shut down and check the
level. Put the used oil in a container for transport to a recycling center. Most
service stations will accept this small amount of oil.

Transmission (Inboard engines only) (SS)

Most manufacturers recommend at least a seasonal transmission fluid
change. Using a suction pump, remove the old fluid through the filler
opening or as specified by the manufacturer. (Examine the old fluid for
water, traces of metal or a rancid smell which may indicate a problem that
needs the attention of a mechanic. If any of these conditions are present, do
not run the engine until the problem is checked and corrected.)

Refill the transmission using the fluid or oil specified by the manufacturer.
Run the engine to warm the transmission fluid to normal operating
temperature and shut down the motor. Immediately check the fluid level as
indicated by the manufacturer. Failure to check the level right away will
result in inaccurate readings as the fluid expands when heated and runs back
into the cooling lines as it cools.

Tune-up (SS)

Some people like to perform a tune-up at this time so the boat will be ready
to go at the beginning of the next season (check with your dealer for engine
specifications). If you are not experienced, you may want to have a
mechanic do this. If you decide to tune up your engine yourself, consider
reinstalling the old spark plugs when winterizing and storing the boat to
avoid corrosion or fouling of your new plugs.

Fuel treatment

There is some debate over whether it's best to stabilize fuel with an additive
and top off tanks to prevent accumulation of explosive vapors and
condensation or to completely drain the fuel system to prevent gumming in
the fuel tank and carburetor. (It is a good idea to check with your dealer for
his recommendation.) If you decide to go the fuel stabilization route, now is
the time to add the stabilizer to the gas. Run the engine for a few minutes to
circulate the stabilized fuel.

Internal protection

Carefully check for fuel vapors and be certain that the engine compartment
is well ventilated. Restart the engine and remove the flame arrestor. With the
engine running at fast idle, slowly pour a fogging oil into carburetor until a
dense ``fog'' is visible in the exhaust. (Be sure to pour slowly; hydrostatic
lock may occur if you pour too fast.) Shut down the motor. According to
Craig Warner, warehouse and service manager at New England Correct
Craft, a one-to-one blend of the motor oil that you usually run and Marvel's
Mystery Oil makes a good fogging oil. The job will take about one-half to
one pint of the mixture. This fogging process coats the internal parts of the
engine with a thin layer of oil to prevent rust and corrosion.

If you did not stabilize the fuel, completely drain the system now. Gasoline
is hard to dispose of properly, but the tank of your car or truck will gladly
accept this still-fresh fuel.

Filters--check and clean or replace (SS)

Check and clean or replace the fuel filter, fuel tank pick-up screen, flame
arrestor and carburetor fuel screen as recommended by the manufacturer.
Clean these items with a solvent and blow dry with low-pressure
compressed air. According to Warner, heavy duty cleaners like ``Simple
Green'' or ``409'' work well on the flame arrestor and a carburetor cleaner
does the job on the screens in the fuel system. The units may be air dried if
you don't have access to compressed air.

Drain water from the system

To prevent damage from freezing or corrosion from condensation, you
should drain the cooling system. (Persons with closed cooling systems
should check with their dealer for recommendations on draining verses
flushing and renewing anti-freeze for the heat exchange unit.) Remove the
drain plugs from both sides of the engine block and from the ends of the
exhaust manifolds. Although some of the plugs on engine blocks twist
open, it is best to remove them completely and keep them out during storage
to prevent accumulation of condensation.

Remove the hoses from the raw water pump and blow through them to
remove all water. Be sure that water in the transmission cooler is also
removed at this time. Lowering the trailer tongue will help water flow out of
the back of the engine. You may also want to remove the raw water pump
impeller to prevent it from taking a ``set'' during storage. (Be sure to coat it
with a light coat of oil when you re-install it in the spring; dry start-up will
destroy the impeller.)

Some manufactures also recommend that you remove the hose from the
engine circulation pump, and with the safety starting switch (if so equipped)
disconnected, crank the engine over for two or three seconds to remove any
water not previously drained. (If your boat is not equipped with a safety
disconnected, crank the engine over for two or three seconds to remove any
water not previously drained. (If your boat is not equipped with a safety
starting switch this procedure may by performed by disconnecting the high
tension lead wire between the distributer and the coil.)

Place all plugs, hoses, clamps and parts that you intend to leave out during
storage in a plastic bag and tie it to the steering wheel to insure that you'll
know where to find them in the spring and will not start the boat without
reinstalling them.

Battery

Remove the battery and clean terminals. Check the charge and replenish
with a trickle charger if necessary. Store the battery in a cool, dry place
where it will not be subjected to freezing temperatures. Periodically check
the condition of the battery and replenish with a trickle charger as needed.
Always use cation when working with or storing batteries as they naturally
produce explosive gases and contain caustic acid.

Lubrication (SS)

Grease steering, throttle and shift cables as recommended by manufacturer.
Be sure to work the wheel and control lever back and forth to coat the entire
system. Clean up any old grease purged from the fittings and joints. Also
check and grease your trailer wheel bearings.

Lower unit maintenance (inboard/outboard engines only) (SS)

Change lower unit oil. The gears, bearings and shafts of a stern drive are
lubricated by this oil. Stern drives differ in their arrangement so check with
your dealer for instructions on changing the oil. Inspect the oil after you
drain it. Water droplets or milky-brown color indicate a leak or other
problem with the lower unit that must be repaired to avoid damage to the
unit. You will also want to remove the propeller and clean and re-grease the
shaft especially if the boat was run in salt water. An I/O prop left on the
lower unit through the winter may ``freeze-up'' on the shaft and make
removal at a later date extremely difficult.

Wash and wax (SS)

Thoroughly wash the boat inside and out (it'll be a lot easier now then on
the first warm day in spring). Apply a coat of wax to fiberglass and
polished metal surfaces and a protectant (try to find one that does not
contain alcohol like Clear Guard or 303) to seats, motor cover and other
polished metal surfaces and a protectant (try to find one that does not
contain alcohol like Clear Guard or 303) to seats, motor cover and other
vinyl surfaces. Spray motor, electrical parts and exposed metal surfaces
with a spray lubricant such as WD-40 or CRC to prevent corrosion.

Cover and storage

Be sure the boat is completely dry and remove all loose items that may
mildew or corrode. Then, cover the boat and tape the exhaust flappers shut
to keep nesting animals from making a winter home in your exhaust system.
It is best to store your boat indoors or at least under a roofed area. If this is
not possible, you may need to provide extra support for the cover,
especially if you are in an area with heavy snows. Two-inch PVC pipe is
easy to work with and makes good supports. Its round shape keeps it from
damaging your boat cover. Shrink wrapping is also excellent in areas
subject to snows. Its slick surface does not allow snow to accumulate and
weigh down the protective cover (check with your dealer for availability). If
your boat is stored on a trailer, you may want to block the trailer frame to
take pressure off the tires and springs.

By following these steps and your dealer's recommendations, your boat
will be in tip-top condition after its hibernation and you'll be able to
concentrate solely on your skiing in the spring. Remember, failure to follow
manufacturer's maintenance recommendations may affect warrantee
coverage, so always check with your dealer when you have a question.

ANOTHER SOURCE: ON WINTERIZING