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Early sunrise walk, breakfast, and then off - via the office (pic 1) to pay for our accommodation (A local community-run camp - all proceeds go to the local - POOR! - community. Steve the only one to buy anything touristy in a T-shirt). Via the ex-mining town of Uis, where local rock and crystal vendors make life an absolute nightmare, to Aba Huab campsite on the banks of the (DRY!) river of the same name. A trip to the spectacular San (Bushman) petroglyphs and rock paintings at Twyfelfontein.

Pic. 1 Spitzkoppe community camp

Pic. 1 Spitzkoppe community camp

The once lovely camp has now become way too overcrowded (the owner obviously squeezes as many folk in as possible to make $$$$$). The water barely managed to wet one and the hope of HOT water was a VERY foolish fantasy. In fact, water itself became extinct at about 6pm - and still the people kept arriving - and being accepted in! The toilets became a real test! Add to that the dust storm, and it was REAL Africa. The saving grace was darkness. Darkness in Africa always manages to make even the most dismal place magically memorable. Add to that the fact that we saw 2 of the Kaokoland Desert Elephants - !!!!!!
 

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