Introduction

You plan a trip to San Francisco with certain expectations: cable cars, Chinatown, North Beach, pastel Victorian homes fronting steep, lawnless streets. But what's surprising about arriving in San Francisco is that it's all so unfamiliar. The bell of the cable car sounds different when you're actually onboard, rounding a corner that goes both abruptly up and sharply to the left. The bell rises above the ratcheting of the cable and the babel of languages, as distinct amid the clamor as a foghorn floating through the early morning mist. In photos, the hills of San Francisco merely provide its setting; in person, there's nothing ordinary about this roller-coaster landscape, its lively residents and abundant attractions.

HISTORY
For a relatively young community, San Francisco has a rich history. The San Francisco Bay Area was originally inhabited by the Miwok and Ohlone Indians, but after Spanish explorers arrived in 1775, the Indians were almost wiped out by disease and mistreatment. The Spanish themselves were forced out in 1846, when U.S. forces captured San Francisco during the Spanish-American War. Just two years later, a miner named Sam Brannan discovered gold around the American River. His find made him the first millionaire in California and set off the largest peacetime migration in U.S. history. The population leaped from 500 to 25,000 in one year, as people from all over the world rushed to San Francisco. San Francisco grew from a collection of tents to a world-class city and seaport, a place where the new gold and railroad barons of the era could enjoy the finer things in life. (San Francisco also became known for its many brothels, saloons and opium dens.)

In 1906, an immense earthquake struck, resulting in a fire that raged for three days. Some 400 people were killed and half of San Francisco was destroyed. The city rebuilt itself quickly—much of the architecture you see today dates from that era. (City fathers, however, thwarted plans to rebuild the red-light district.) San Francisco was a major staging area during World War II, and the burgeoning shipbuilding industry attracted many African Americans looking for work.

During the 1950s, the Beats—Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg, Lawrence Ferlinghetti and others—created a subculture of poets and writers in the North Beach neighborhood. Their music was jazz. Through it, the beatniks tried to breach the wall that separated black and white. When North Beach rents went up in the 1960s, many bohemians moved to the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood, and San Francisco became the birthplace of the hippie movement. And in the 1970s and 80s, the Castro district became a mecca for gay people from all over the world.

Despite another major earthquake in 1989, San Francisco's economy has prospered in recent years. It's said that there are more World Wide Web design and multimedia firms per square foot in the South of Market area than anywhere else on Earth. Tourism is San Francisco's No. 1 industry, and the city has a thriving convention business that keeps its hotels and restaurants packed throughout the year. The city now operates under the aegis of Willie Brown, a flamboyant and confrontational African-American mayor—pick up one of the local newspapers and you'll be sure to find some lively commentary about the latest Willie controversy.

GEOGRAPHY
Perched on the northern tip of a peninsula, San Francisco is surrounded on three sides by water—to the west by the Pacific Ocean; to the east by San Francisco Bay, with Berkeley and Oakland on the far shore (East Bay); and to the north by the narrow mouth of the bay, spanned by the Golden Gate Bridge, which leads to Marin County. Forty-nine hills stud the City (as San Franciscans call it), accounting for the bounty of breathtaking views. It's a city of neighborhoods, each with its distinct character and attractions. Some of the most visited are Union Square, the Financial District, SoMa (the area south of Market Street), the Embarcadero, Chinatown, North Beach and Fisherman's Wharf, all clustered in the northeast corner of town. Others well worth visiting are Japantown, the Castro (the symbolic center of the gay community), the Marina and Haight-Ashbury, which adjoins the eastern tip of Golden Gate Park. The park itself stretches westward to the Pacific Ocean, dividing two large residential neighborhoods, Richmond to the north and Sunset to the south.

Must See or Do

Sights—Golden Gate Bridge; a cable car ride over Nob Hill; Golden Gate Park; the Embarcadero; a ferry cruise to Sausalito or Alcatraz.

Museums—San Francisco Museum of Modern Art; Asian Art Museum; California Palace of the Legion of Honor; Ansel Adams Center; Center for the Arts at Yerba Buena Gardens; the Cartoon Art Museum.

Memorable Meals—Breakfast under the Garden Court's stained-glass dome or at Sears Fine Food; lunch at Tommy Toy's, with a Chinese taco appetizer; vegetarian lunch at Greens at Fort Mason; dinner at Fior d'Italia or at Fournou's Ovens.

Late Night—Cocktails at Nob Hill's Top of the Mark for a sky-high view of the city at night; Beach Blanket Babylon at Club Fugazi; jazz at the Great American Music Hall; dancing at Harry Denton's; a nightcap at Moose's.

Walks—Walking in Golden Gate Park; hiking across the Golden Gate Bridge; strolling anywhere along the 10-mi/15-km coastline from the Embarcadero through the Golden Gate Promenade (in the reclaimed Presidio); exploring the smaller streets and alleys of Chinatown.

Especially for Kids—San Francisco is as varied for young visitors as it is for their parents. A few of the many choices: riding a cable car; the children's zoo and playground at San Francisco Zoological Gardens; the vintage carousel in Golden Gate Park; the Cartoon Art Museum (not just for kids); hands-on science exhibits at the Exploratorium; the new Rooftop at Yerba Buena Gardens, with its "Zeum," carousel, ice-skating rink and bowling alley; Underwater World and seal watching at Pier 39; the Musee Mecanique and the Camera Obscura out along the ocean at Seal Rock are fun for all ages.

Advisories

CRIME
While most of the areas that business travelers and tourists frequently visit are reasonably safe, some are adjacent to areas that are not. Use extra caution in the Tenderloin (near Union Square-Theater District) and Western Addition (near Japantown). There are many aggressive panhandlers in most tourist areas, especially around Union Square. Use a combination of respect and caution.

Keep alert when walking in Golden Gate Park—stay on main paths if you're walking alone and avoid walking there at night. Be cautious about venturing off the well-populated streets in SoMa (South of Market). Extra caution is also advised in the Mission District and Haight-Ashbury at night.

CULTURAL PRACTICES
As one of the world's major business and financial centers, San Francisco is considerably decorous in style. Plan on wearing a suit, but bring your most stylish one: Business attire is formal, fashionable and often incorporates noticeably eccentric touches designed to demonstrate California independence.

Geostats

Official Name: San Francisco, California.

Passport/Visa Requirements: Australians need a passport, visa and proof of onward passage. Canadians need to show proof of citizenship (and a photo ID) to enter the U.S. and reenter Canada (a passport is recommended). Travelers from the U.K. need a passport and proof of onward passage. Reconfirm travel document requirements with carrier before departing.

Metropolitan Population: 6,605,428.

Currency: U.S. dollar (US$). 100 cents = US$1.

Weather: A mild to cool climate year-round.

Voltage Requirements: 110 volts.

Time Zone: 8 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-8 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the first Sunday in April to the last Sunday in October.

Telephone Codes: 415, San Francisco; Marin County and northern peninsula; 650, South San Francisco (airport); San Mateo County; 510, Alameda and Contra Costa Counties.

Emergency Numbers: Dial 911 for police, fire, ambulance or Coast Guard emergencies.

Sightseeing

Unquestionably one of the world's most scenic cities, San Francisco nonetheless offers attractions designed to lure you indoors. After viewing the Golden Gate Bridge and Golden Gate Park and walking down the Crookedest Street in the World (Lombard), explore the fascinating treasures housed in four major art museums and one of the world's most innovative, hands-on science museums (or one of the country's few fortune-cookie factories). As you're walking around downtown, don't forget to look up: Extraordinary architectural detail can be found on the upper levels of buildings, above the storefronts.

San Francisco could be fined for the misleading names on some of its tourist attractions: Fishermen's Wharf has no fishermen, North Beach has no beach, Japantown has fewer and fewer Japanese and Seal Rocks fewer seals. No one seems to complain very much, though, because, names aside, not many visitors leave this city disappointed: It offers a combination of scenic beauty, artistic accomplishments and brash character that is unmatched in the U.S. In fact, it's one of our favorite towns in the world.

What makes San Francisco even more appealing is that it's the epicenter of the larger Bay Area, which adds a whole gamut of sights and activities to San Francisco's culture and good looks. Among the choices are the giant redwoods of Muir Woods, the charming bayside city of Sausalito, the coastline of Marin County, the collegiate atmosphere of Palo Alto and Berkeley, the museums of Oakland and San Jose. In short, the waters of San Francisco Bay are surrounded with things to do. Unless you have unlimited time, you'll have to be selective. We suggest that first-time visitors begin with San Francisco itself.

With the reclamation of the Presidio (from the military) and the Embarcadero (from the freeway), it's theoretically possible to walk or bike the entire stretch (10 mi/15 km) of U-shaped shoreline that hugs the northern tip of San Francisco. But don't attempt to do it at one time—break it up into separate sections or you'll exhaust yourself. Plus, there's just too much to see. The whole waterfront area is undergoing a renaissance—from the South Beach Marina and Park, near the Bay Bridge at Pier 40, to the Golden Gate Promenade, which passes through the Presidio.

LANDMARKS AND HISTORIC SITES
Coit Tower—Perched atop Telegraph Hill, this landmark affords an excellent view of the city, even from the base of the tower. Inside at the ground level are wonderful murals painted by 1930s WPA artists. For US$3.75 adults (US$2.50 seniors, US$1.50 children), an elevator takes you to the top of the tower. On the way down the hill, take the Filbert Street stairs if you're going toward the waterfront. 10 am-6 pm. Telegraph Hill Boulevard. Take MUNI Bus 39 or, from the west, take the stairs up from the end of Greenwich Street. Phone 415-362-0808.

Crookedest Street in the World—Lombard Street has claimed this title since it was laid out in the 1920s. The hairpin turns in one block between Hyde Street and Leavenworth descend a 40-degree slope faced with brick and flowers that make the street itself as spectacular as the view it provides of the city and the bay. There are eight turns, or nine, or maybe 10, depending on who's counting. It's more fun to drive down than to walk down.

Golden Gate Bridge—The bridge described as one that "couldn't be built" opened in 1937 to become the most photographed man-made structure in the world. Its distinctive International Orange spans 1.2 mi/2 km between San Francisco and the Marin Headlands. The suspension bridge design permits a sway of 27 ft/8 m at midspan. On its 50th birthday the Golden Gate treated 200,000 well-wishers to a drop of 10 ft/3 m because of their combined weight upon it. A pedestrian sidewalk provides one of the most dramatic and beautiful views anywhere in the city. There's not much to do once you get to the Marin County side but use the rest room before walking back across. Try to do your walk on a sunny day and dress warmly—it can be very windy on the bridge. Free for pedestrians, US$3 toll for southbound vehicles. To get there, take a cable car from Union Square, then MUNI Bus 76.

Mission Dolores—The city's oldest building, the mission was founded in 1776 by Father Junipero Serra as Mission San Francisco de Asis—the sixth of 21 missions established in California. Daily 9 am-4 pm, until 4:30 pm in summer. US$1 (voluntary). 16th and Dolores Streets, phone 415-621-8203.

Notable Architecture—Residential (all within five blocks of one another, west of Van Ness, in Washington Heights): The Haas-Lilienthal House, 2007 Franklin St. (call 415-441-3000 for Wednesday and Sunday tours); Chateau Tivoli, 1057 Steiner St. (at Golden Gate); and the Spreckels Mansion, 737 Buena Vista W. (off Haight). Commercial: The Hallidie Building (the American Institute of Architects is on the 6th floor), 130 Sutter St. (three blocks east of Union Square between Montgomery and Kearny); The Palace of Fine Arts (originally made in papier mache for the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition and later reinforced), Baker Street (on the east edge of the Presidio, west of the Marina District); and the Conservatory of Flowers (design inspired by the Kew Gardens Conservatory in London), Martin Luther King Jr. Drive (in Golden Gate Park, near the Strybing Arboretum).

SkyDeck—For another panoramic view of the city, visit the SkyDeck at One Embarcadero Center. US$6 adults, US$4 seniors, US$3.50 children ages 5-12. Sacramento and Front Streets, phone 415-772-0591.

Transamerica Pyramid—What once was a controversial addition to the San Francisco skyline, now ranks with the Golden Gate Bridge as a signature landmark. The Pyramid is San Francisco's tallest structure, standing an imposing 853 ft/780 m tall—48 stories capped by a 212-ft/194-m spire. Lobby exhibits are open Monday-Friday 8 am-4 pm. Free. 600 Montgomery St. (between Clay and Washington), phone 415-983-4000. Other striking corporate structures are the 52-floor Bank of America World Headquarters at 555 California St. and the open courtyard of the 43-story Citicorp Tower at 1 Sansome St.

MUSEUMS
Ansel Adams Center for Photography—Gallery exhibits there include some of the world's most exciting photographs, with one gallery focusing on Adams and his influential place in 20th-century photography. Daily 11 am-5 pm, first Thursday of each month to 8 pm. US$5 adults, US$3 students, US$2 seniors and children ages 14-18, free under age 13. 250 4th St., phone 415-495-7000.

Asian Art Museum—The largest museum devoted to Asian art in the Western world. Avery Brundage brought international distinction to San Francisco when this city was selected as the showcase for his Asian art collection. Paintings, jades, bronzes and ceramics from the major historical and stylistic periods. Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 am-5 pm. US$7 adults, US$5 seniors, US$4 children ages 12-17, free under age 12. (Adjacent to the de Young Museum; combined admission on the same day.) Golden Gate Park, phone 415-668-8921. Recorded information: 415-379-8801.

California Academy of Sciences—Located in Golden Gate Park directly across from the M. H. de Young Museum. Here you can watch the stars in the daytime and take a deep-sea dive without getting wet. The West's oldest scientific institution is the home of Morrison Planetarium (and Laserium), Steinhart Aquarium (with a "touching tide pool" that delights children) as well as the Natural History Museum (one of the largest in the world). Daily 10 am-5 pm. US$8.50 adults, US$5.50 seniors and children ages 12-17, US$2 children ages 4-11, free age 3 and under. Golden Gate Park, phone 415-750-7145.

California Palace of the Legion of Honor—Located in Lincoln Park, this museum is a neoclassical masterpiece modeled after the Palais de la Legion d'Honneur in Paris. Its handsome collection includes fine Dutch, French and American paintings handsomely mounted, as well as Rodin bronzes. (The Thinker is in front.) The view of the city from outside the museum is stunning. Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 am-5 pm. US$7 adults, US$5 seniors, US$4 children ages 12-17, free under age 12. Lincoln Park, 34th Avenue at Clement Street, phone 415-863-3330. The white Holocaust Memorial, designed by sculptor George Segal, is within walking distance of the museum.

Cartoon Art Museum—A change of pace if you're near the Museum of Modern Art and Yerba Buena Gardens is the Cartoon Art Museum, with exhibits ranging from classic Walt Disney to Latino taggers (graffiti artists). Wednesday-Friday 11 am- 5 pm, Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday 1-5 pm. US$5 adults, US$3 seniors and students, US$2 children ages 6-12, free ages 5 and under. 814 Mission St., phone 415-227-8666.

Exploratorium—The 650 exhibits of the senses at the Exploratorium are designed to be hands-on, interactive experiences. Located in the Palace of Fine Arts in the Marina District, these science, art and human-perception experiences have earned the Exploratorium a reputation as one of the world's most innovative museums. Don't miss the Tactile Dome. It's worth the extra fee to take older kids into and around the deep, dark passages, guided only by your sense of touch. It gets noisy with all the excitement. (Dome admission US$12. Call 415-561-0362, Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-4 pm, to reserve in advance.) Exploratorium hours: Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm (Wednesdays to 9 pm). US$9 adults, US$7 seniors and students, US$5 children ages 6-17, US$2.50 children ages 3-5. 3601 Lyon St., phone 415-561-0360.

M. H. de Young Memorial Museum—Located in Golden Gate Park, this is San Francisco's oldest, largest and most diverse art museum with 22 galleries of paintings, sculpture and decorative arts. Americana, pre-Columbian, African, Greek, Egyptian and Italian art. Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 am-5 pm. US$7 adults, US$5 seniors, US$4 children ages 12-17, free under age 12. (Combined admission with the Asian Art Museum on the same day.) Golden Gate Park (10th Avenue and Kennedy Drive), phone 415-863-3330.

Mexican Museum—The collection encompasses more than 9,000 artworks depicting Mexican art and culture. Wednesday-Friday noon-5 pm, weekends 11 am-5:30 pm. US$3 adults, US$2 seniors and students, free ages 10 and under. Building D, Fort Mason Center, phone 415-202-9700.

San Francisco Art Institute—The galleries at the Institute specialize in experimental contemporary art, and also contain a mural by Diego Rivera. Daily 8 am-8 pm. Free. 800 Chestnut St. (at Jones Street), phone 415-771-7020.

San Francisco Maritime Museum—Visitors can view meticulously built ship models and large ship relics, carved figureheads and a collection of photographs, relics and maps on exhibit here. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Free, though admission is charged to tour the antique ships moored nearby at Hyde Street Pier. Near Fisherman's Wharf, Beach and Polk Streets, phone 415-556-3002.

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art—This museum has been offering adventurous art since 1935. Its newish building, designed by architect Mario Botta in 1994, is a work of art in its own right. The collection inside includes works by Pollock, Rothko, Johns and Rauschenberg. There's modern sculpture as well, and a collection of 8,000 contemporary photographs. Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-6 pm, Thursday open till 9 pm. Galleries may close earlier. US$8 adults, US$5 seniors, US$4 children ages 12-17. 151 3rd St. (SoMa, near the Moscone Convention Center), phone 415-357-4000.

Zeum at Yerba Buena Gardens—The Zeum is the city's spectacular downtown arts complex for children, located south of Market (SoMa). Offering a diverse schedule of cross-cultural visual and performing arts programs, it overlooks a 5-acre/2-hectare urban park (the Rooftop at Yerba Buena Gardens) with an ice-skating rink, bowling alley, an outdoor amphitheater, carousel and walk-through waterfall. Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-6 pm, 701 Mission (at 3rd Street, and near the Moscone Convention Center), phone 415-978-2787.

NEIGHBORHOODS AND DISTRICTS
Barbary Coast Trail—This 3.8-mi/6-km meandering walk through the downtown area focuses on such scenes from the city's history as the Gold Rush, the 1906 earthquake and fire, and the 1950s beatnik movement in North Beach. The route is marked by 150 brass plaques embedded in the sidewalk. Free. For more information, contact the San Francisco Historical Society, phone 415-775-1111.

Chinatown—Grant Avenue is the main street of the largest Chinese community outside Asia. For eight blocks from Bush Street to Columbus Avenue and along even more authentic adjacent blocks, visitors confront a maze of food markets, shops, restaurants and temples. Even the street signs are in Chinese.

Golden Gate Promenade—This 3.5-mi/5.6-km path along the city's waterfront, located in The Presidio, offers spectacular views of the Golden Gate Bridge and bay (it's a world-famous spot for windsurfing). The area is undergoing a transformation from military to public use, and works in progress include restoration of native vegetation and tidal marshes, the preservation of historic buildings, and construction of facilities for picnicking. Just one section of the city's walkable waterfront, the Promenade is situated between the St. Francis Yacht Club at the foot of Baker Street and Fort Point, directly under the Golden Gate Bridge.

Japantown—Japantown is the focal point for the City's large Japanese community. Surrounding the 5-acre/2-hectare Japan Center (Nihonmachi) is a collection of cultural sites, restaurants, teahouses, shops and theaters. The Kabuki theater complex offers everything from movies to traditional Noh theater and Japanese baths and massage. Geary and Laguna Streets, phone 415-921-1782. The Peace Plaza is the site of major spring and summer festivals. The heart of Japantown is between Post and Geary Streets and Laguna and Fillmore Streets.

The Castro District—This neighborhood is the spiritual heart of San Francisco's gay community. The Castro, as the center of the district is called, has a lively array of shops, restaurants and bars that freely and theatrically celebrate lesbian and gay life. The most interesting portion of the Castro is bordered by 17th and 20th Streets and includes Collingwood, Castro and Hartford Streets. There are a few novelty stores and coffee shops on Market where it crosses Castro. To get there, take one of MUNI's vintage streetcars south on Market and hop off before it goes through the tunnel.

PARKS AND GARDENS
Golden Gate Park—The park, begun in 1870 in a barren stretch of sand dunes, today boasts more than 6,000 varieties of plants and a redwood memorial grove. The 1,017-acre/412-hectare park encompasses the Japanese Tea Garden, M. H. de Young Museum, Asian Art Museum, California Academy of Sciences, the Strybing Arboretum and Botanical Gardens, Conservatory of Flowers, a herd of buffalo and two windmills. There are also miles of hiking, jogging, skating and biking trails.

Japanese Tea Garden—Regarded as the jewel within the heart of Golden Gate Park, the garden dates from 1894. Because tradition holds that evil travels a straight route, the garden has winding paths, offering a serene place to stroll. Both Western-style and traditional Asian teas are served in the open-air stone teahouse. Daily 9 am-5:30 pm. US$3.50 adults, US$1.25 seniors and children ages 6-12. Golden Gate Park (next to the Asian Art Museum), phone 415-752-1171.

ZOOS AND WILDLIFE
Underwater World—This attraction has a moving walkway that runs underneath a clear acrylic vault from where you can watch sharks, rays and other fish swim over and alongside you. Daily 10 am-7 pm. US$12.95 adults, US$9.95 seniors and people with disabilities, US$6.50 children ages 3-11. East side of Pier 39, Embarcadero at Beach, phone 415-623-5300.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES
49-Mile Scenic Drive—This auto route, marked with a heavy blue line painted on the roadway and distinctive signs, offers car travelers a half-day drive (a minimum of three hours) past the city's most scenic and historic points, such as Ghirardelli Square, the Palace of Legion of Honor, Golden Gate Park and Twin Peaks. Maps are available at the Visitor Information Center, 900 Market St. (Hallidie Plaza, lower level), 94142-9097, phone 415-391-2000.

Beach Chalet—At the far western end of Golden Gate Park is the Beach Chalet, a renovated, 19th-century Spanish Colonial building. The WPA murals inside by Lucien Labaudt depict the San Francisco of the 1930s. The restaurant and microbrewery upstairs offer an unobstructed view of the ocean. There's parking between the chalet and the beach. Monday-Thursday 9 am-6 pm, Friday 9 am-5 pm for the visitors center (the restaurant and brew pub serve diners until 10 pm). Beach Chalet Visitors Center, the Great Highway, south of Fulton Street, phone 415-751-2766.

Camera Obscura—This attraction is an optical instrument that's a replica of a Leonardo da Vinci invention. It permits a quaint, postcard view of the western edge of San Francisco as the Victorians saw it. Daily 11 am-sunset. US$1 adults, US$0.50 children under age 12. 1096 Point Lobos Ave., phone 415-750-0415.

Golden Gate Fortune Cookies Factory—Visitors are encouraged to see fortunes in the making at this factory. While no one is certain about the origin of the fortune cookie, the San Francisco legend is that the first one was made in 1909 by Makoto Hagiwara, the creator of the Japanese Tea Garden. Daily 10 am-7 pm. 56 Ross Alley (between Jackson and Washington, in Chinatown), phone 415-781-3956.

Ocean Beach—At the western end of Golden Gate Park, this beach is (weather permitting) a fine place for a stroll. Then walk up a small hill to watch the seals play on Seal Rock and gaze down into the remains of the historic Sutro Bath House. Enjoy a drink in the main-floor lounge of the famous Cliff House, then visit the Musee Mecanique, an interactive museum of antique penny arcade machines (you put in your quarters and play). Monday-Friday 11 am-7 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-7 pm. Free (except for those quarters). 1090 Point Lobos Ave., phone 415-386-1170.

Pier 39—You can begin your exploration at 4th and King with a ride on the E-line Caltrain that takes you through the first 1.5 mi/2.5 km of light industrial and marine activity to within two blocks of the Ferry Building (at the north end of Market Street). There, a farmers market hums on Saturdays between April and October. Stroll the Embarcadero for the next 3.5 mi/5.5 km past cafes, restaurants and converted wharf buildings toward the attractions of Pier 39, Fisherman's Wharf and Ghirardelli Square. The next 3 mi/5 km take you through Fort Mason to Marina Green, ending at the yacht clubs and their gaggle of wagging, clanging masts. The hardiest hikers can press on through the Presidio along the Golden Gate Promenade and end up at the Golden Gate Bridge at Fort Point.

Shopping

If shopping is your passion and the sky's the limit, San Francisco is your city. It has a variety of shops for arts, antiques and fashions, but most San Franciscans will tell you that there's no shopping in San Francisco without Union Square, the downtown home of Gumps (a must-visit for any dedicated shopper), Macys, Neiman Marcus, Saks and a wealth of other upscale stores. Other prominent shopping areas include the Anchorage Center, Ghirardelli Square, Sutter Street, the Cannery, Pier 39, the Crocker Galleria and Embarcadero Center.

There are good selections of Chinese and Japanese products (from jade to porcelain to silk) and art in Chinatown and Japantown (do bargain). South of Market Street (the SoMa district), many of the old warehouses have been converted into shopping centers with boutiques and shops selling designer-label fashions. The San Francisco Shopping Centre is also nearby.

Sacramento Street in Presidio Heights has lately become a haven for shops selling clothing and furnishings that range from the very old to the ultranew. Trendy furnishings and clothing can be found on Hayes Street, behind the San Francisco Opera House, and along chic Union Street in the Marina District. Original art is best found near Union Square in galleries that belong to the San Francisco Art Dealers Association. San Francisco Open Studios in October provides a unique opportunity to visit the working studios of local artists, including more than 300 studios in the Hunters Point Naval Shipyard.

The Bay Area has a number of factory outlets, including the Great Mall of the Bay Area in San Jose. Look for a publication entitled Bargain Hunting in the Bay Area, a factory-outlet guide sold locally.

ANTIQUE STORES
Fumiki Fine Asian Arts—This establishment specializes in Japanese and Korean art and antiques, as well as works by San Francisco and internationally known artists. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. 2001 Union Street (Cow Hollow at Union Street), phone 415-922-0573.

Jackson Square Art and Antique Dealers Association—This organization consists of 21 antique shops showing Asian art and furniture, porcelain and ceramics, tapestries and carpets as well as Continental and English furniture. Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 pm, 414 Jackson St., phone 415-296-8150.

John Doughty Antiques—One of many Jackson Square dealers, this establishment specializes in English and French furniture and oil paintings. Monday-Friday 9:30 am-5 pm. 619 Sansome St., phone 415-398-6849.

BOOKSTORES
A Different Light—One of the best bookstores in the U.S. for lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgendered titles. Pick up a copy of the Bay Area Reporter there for news and events taking place in the city's gay community. Daily 10 am-midnight. 489 Castro St., phone 415-431-0891.

Bound Together Books—A local fixture in the everchanging Haight-Ashbury district. Book subjects range from art to politics. Daily 11:30 am-7:30 pm. 1369 Haight, phone 415-431-8355.

City Lights—This is where the talents of beat generation notables Jack Kerouac, Alan Ginsburg, William S. Burroughs and Charles Bukowski were first exposed to the world. It's legendary in the city, and a section of the second floor is dedicated to the works of beat writers. There's also an impressive poetry section. Daily 10 am-midnight. 261 Columbus (North Beach), phone 415-362-8193.

Cody's Books—Famous for its enormous selection and superb customer service. If you ask for something on the mating habits of parakeets in Sumatra in the 18th century, the store's industrious staff will help you find it. Daily 10 am-10 pm. 2424 Telegraph Ave. (accessible by BART), Berkeley, phone 510-845-7852. A second store is located in the 4th Street shopping area at 1730 4th St., phone 510-559-9500, open Sunday-Wednesday 10 am-7 pm, Thursday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm.

Green Apple—One of the premier neighborhood bookstores, located in the Richmond district. Sunday-Thursday 10 am-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am-11:30 pm. 506 Clement St., phone 415-387-2272.

William Stout's Architecture Bookstore—One of the country's best collections of new, used and antique art and architecture books. Monday-Saturday 10 am-5:30 pm, Thursday till 9 pm. 804 Montgomery (south of Broadway), phone 415-391-6757.

DEPARTMENT STORES
Gump's—A large, upscale source for home furnishings and objets d'art. Good selection of Asian imports. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm. 135 Post St. (less than two blocks from Union Square), phone 415-982-1616.

Macy's—This vendor anchors Union Square. You'll find a post office in the basement. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday 11 am-7 pm, 170 O'Farrell St. (at Stockton), phone 415-397-3333.

Neiman Marcus—Open Monday, Thursday and Friday 10 am-8 pm, Tuesday, Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday noon-6 pm. 150 Stockton St. (at Geary, Union Square), phone 415-362-3900.

Nordstrom—The largest store of this chain is located in the San Francisco Shopping Center, accessible by a spiral escalator. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-9 pm, Sunday 11 am-7 pm. 865 Market St. (at 5th Street, three blocks from Union Square), phone 415-243-8500.

Saks Fifth Avenue—Another Union Square favorite. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6:30 pm (Thursday and Friday to 8 pm), Sunday noon-6 pm, 384 Post St., phone 415-986-4300. A separate men's store is located nearby at 220 Post St. (same hours and phone number).

GALLERIES
Braustein Quay Gallery—Another prestigious location, owned by one of the city's most influential art dealers. Specialties are contemporary and experimental art forms. Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-5:30 pm. 430 Clementina St., phone 415-398-7545.

John Berggruen Gallery—One of the most prestigious in San Francisco, this gallery has three floors of contemporary art. Monday-Friday 9:30 am-5:30 pm, Saturday 10:30 am-5 pm. 228 Grant Ave., phone 415-781-4629.

Larry Evans and James Willis Gallery—The city's most respected source of Asian and Southeast Asian artifacts, especially the primitive arts of Indonesia and New Guinea. Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-6 pm. In a building with several floors of art galleries at 77 Geary St., phone 415-398-7545.

MALLS AND SHOPPING AREAS
Crocker Galleria—50 specialty shops, boutiques and restaurants are housed under a Milan-style glass dome in the Financial District. Monday-Friday 10 am-6 pm, Saturday 10 am-5 pm. 50 Post St., phone 415-393-1505.

Embarcadero Center—San Francisco's largest shopping center. The tree-lined, open-air plaza design is classic John Portman, with outdoor cafes and the dramatic Hyatt Regency Hotel and its 17-story atrium. More than 140 stores and fine restaurants fill eight blocks along Clay Street and Sacramento Street (between Battery and the Embarcadero). Shops are generally open Monday-Friday 10 am-6 pm, Saturday to 5 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. Embarcadero Center phone: 415-772-0500.

Ghirardelli Square—Once a chocolate factory, now the locale of 75 shops and restaurants, and one of many choices for shoppers at Fisherman's Wharf. The square offers a number of specialty shops beyond standard tourist fare, including one of the best chocolate shops. Stores are generally open Sunday-Thursday 10 am-6 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am-9 pm. 900 N. Point St. (at Larkin), phone 415-775-5500.

Haight-Ashbury—Once the cradle of the 1960s hippie movement, this area has become gentrified. It's now a shopping district with pricey boutiques and cafes. A bit of the drug culture is still evident, and be prepared to encounter body-pierced, tattooed, green-haired youth. Haight Street, just east of Golden Gate Park.

San Francisco Shopping Center—This downtown site offers a ride on the nation's only spiral escalator, specialty stores and some of the regulars: Nordstrom, Godiva and Warner Brothers. The nine-level center is open Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-8 pm, Sunday 11 am-6 pm. 5th and Market, phone 415-495-5656.

Union Square—International designer boutiques, sumptuous gift stores and galleries, plus flagship stores of major retailers—some of the best shopping in the city. North of Market, between Geary and Post.

Union Street—Several blocks of shopping and entertainment for the MBA/yuppie crowd. Look for shops (from the Gap to custom jewelry), restaurants (fast food to ethnic) and bars (both juice and alcohol). Union Street between Franklin and Scott Streets in the Marina.

Upper Polk Street—This former rock club and used-clothing-store strip has transformed into a hip, interior design mecca. A five-block stretch is lined with antique shops, ethnic furnishings stores, bookshops and offbeat dining options. Polk Street, between Pacific and Filbert.

Valencia Street—Once a no-go area, the heart of the Inner Mission neighborhood is reemerging as a funky zone of vintage clothing boutiques and Latin American restaurants and cafes. Valencia Street between 16th and 20th.

MARKETS
Chinatown—A cultural journey into the largest Chinese quarter outside of Asia. Start at the green-and-ocher gateway (a gift from Taiwan) at Grant Avenue and Bush Street for a tour of herbalists, souvenir shops, restaurants and jewelry dealers. The narrow, crowded streets and alleys of the 24-square-block area are best explored by walking (parking is difficult). Shops open as early as 9:30 am, closing about 9:30 pm.

Ferry Plaza Farmers Market—A colorful, open-air display of seasonal produce, cheeses and breads. Saturday 8 am-2 pm. Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market).

Heart of the City Farmers Market—An ethnically diverse cornucopia of flowers, produce and seafood in the Civic Center. Wednesday and Sunday 7 am-5 pm. United Nations Plaza, 1182 Market St., phone 415-558-9455.

Treasure Island—This site—the broad, flat area next to the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge—hosts an antique-and-flea market on Sundays, 6 am-4 pm. There's a picnic area along the western shore. To get there by car, go by way of the bridge and follow exit signs. Call 415-274-0660 to learn if planned public transportation has been established.

UNIQUE OR UNUSUAL
Britex Fabrics—One of the few remaining complete fabric emporiums where everything from silk to notions can be found. 146 Geary St. (two blocks east of Union Square), phone 415-392-2910.

Good Vibrations—Clean, well-lighted place to buy erotic toys and books from sex therapist Joani Blank. Very comfortable environment for both men and women. 1210 Valencia St. (23rd Street, Mission District), phone 415-974-8980.

Joseph Schmidt Confections—This tiny shop makes and sells the best fresh candy in the City. You can buy anything sugary, from chewy grapefruit gums to 20 kinds of truffles to huge chocolate bunnies and Santas. 3489 16th St. (at Sanchez, Mission District), phone 415-861-8682 or 800-861-8682.

Limn—Huge selection of contemporary (and bizarre) furniture, art and home accessories with knowledgeable salespeople. 290 Townsend (at 4th Street, SoMa), phone 415-543-5466.

Quantity Postcards—Literally tens of thousands of vintage and pop-art postcards fill this place, none of them costing more than US$0.75. 1441 Grant Ave. (North Beach), phone 415-986-8866.

RetroFit Vintage—The owner's mission is scouring Northern California's garage sales and auctions in order to stock up on "hokey but cool" clothing from the '40s to the '70s. 855 Valencia St., phone 415-550-1530.

Tangerine Accents—A place to buy netsuke, the finely carved bone, wood or metal figurines used by samurai to close the drawstrings of their money sacks. The subject matter ranges from animals and flowers to the Buddha to penises. Prices are from a few dollars to several hundred. 733 Grant Ave. in Chinatown, phone 415-982-6654.

Dining

Cuisine on a global scale is a source of pride for San Franciscans, who claim they have more restaurants per capita than any other city. Stiff competition often makes for good prices, too.

San Francisco's diverse neighborhoods make ethnic dining a lively option: Chinatown and Inner Richmond for Chinese dishes, Polk and Larkin Streets for Vietnamese and Cambodian, North Beach for Italian, the Mission District for Mexican and Latin American. Then there's Fisherman's Wharf for seafood, SoMa (south of Market) for trendy cafes and jazzy nightspots, and the Haight-Ashbury District for inexpensive, eclectic menus geared to the bohemian crowd.

California cuisine, no longer "nouvelle," is ultrafresh, using local ingredients—vegetables, fish and meats—with imaginative and colorful French-inspired presentations. The dishes are often complemented by terrific California wines. Fine California cuisine can be found in Union Square, the Financial District and other parts of the city.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$15; $$ = US$16-$25; $$$ = US$26-$50; and $$$$ = more than US$50.

HOT AND TRENDY
Delfina—A tiny oasis in the newly hip and funky Mission district, Delfina offers lovingly prepared meats, fowl, fish, pastas and salads that vary daily according to what the market provides. Try chef Craig Stoll's duck confit, and for dessert order a cooling tangerine granita. A pretty little patio extends the limited seating somewhat. Open Monday-Thursday for dinner only 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm, Sunday 5:30-10 pm. Reservations highly recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 3621 18th St. (between Dolores and Guerrero). Phone 415-552-4055.

Globe—Popular with post-shift chefs, society ladies, even the mayor, Globe serves impeccable bistro-style food. Favorites include the shellfish-laden bouillabaisse and rotisserie chicken. Open for dinner until 1 am. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. At Battery. 290 Pacific. Phone 415-391-4132.

MC2—Looking like a chic, new and spacious warehouse, with extensive brick, blond wood and pillars galore, MC2 is pulling in the knowing, beautiful people. Chef Yoshi Kojima's French free-ranging menu, with its Pacific Rim influences, encompasses everything from roasted fish to stuffed quail to vegetables in fig sauce. Extensive wine list and a separate bar menu. Open for lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, for dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday to 10:30 pm. Closed Sunday. Reservations requested. $$$. Most major credit cards. At Montgomery. 470 Pacific Ave. Phone 415-956-0666.

Plouf—A chic seafood bistro tucked away on a pedestrians-only alley in the heart of the financial district, with lots of outdoor seating. The feeling is "French village," in the middle of the city. Mussels are the house specialty—they do them 10 ways, served in brimming bowlfuls. Monday-Friday-11:30 am-2:30 pm, Monday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Beldon Place at Bush. Phone 415-986-6491.

BEST IN TOWN
Fournou's Ovens—Oak-fired ovens and a wine cellar of 20,000 bottles help account for the awards won by this posh Nob Hill restaurant. Executive chef Raman Natarajan's seafood, oven-roasted meats and desserts are Fournou's forte. The Pavilions section serves breakfast, lunch and a weekend brunch on the patio overlooking the cable cars. Daily 6:30 am-to 3 pm; 5:30-10 pm; Friday and Saturday to 10:30 pm. Reservations required. Coat and tie recommended for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. At Powell Street. 905 California St., Renaissance Stanford Court Hotel. Phone 415-989-1910.

Jardiniere—Terrific range of contemporary French-California cuisine prepared by Tracy Des Jardins. A glorious and intricate two-story, mezzanine interior, which draws the opera and theater crowd. Daily 5:30-10:30 pm. Reservations required. $$$. Most major credit cards. Civic Center area. 300 Grove St. Phone 415-861-5555.

Masa's—The restaurant with the highest Zagat rating in the city is noted for its seafood, game and exquisite sauces. Two set menus run about US$80 for several courses. More than 600 wines, attentive service and a room of classic elegance make dining at Masa's a special occasion. Tuesday-Saturday 6 pm-midnight. Closed first two weeks of January and the week of July 4. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. At Union Square. 648 Bush St. Phone 415-989-7154.

Postrio—This dramatic trilevel just off Union Square is Wolfgang Puck's Northern California culinary home, and it's regularly rated one of the city's best. The cuisine is inventively haute Californian with Mediterranean and some Asian touches. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Friday 7-10 am and 11:30 am-2 pm; dinner Sunday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm. Reservations required. Coat and tie suggested. $$$. Most major credit cards. At Mason St., adjacent to the Prescott Hotel. 545 Post St. (in the Prescott Hotel). Phone 415-776-7825.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES
Aqua—This is the place for seafood, prepared by noted chef Michael Mina. The underwater theme is enhanced by the contemporary deco decor, with a delightful high-ceilinged interior and custom glass light fixtures. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:15 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. In the Financial District. 252 California St. Phone 415-956-9662.

Beach Chalet Brewery—Great place to have a microbrew while viewing the crashing waves of Ocean Beach. (Even on sunny days, the beach is cool and windswept, with stinging sand—so it's pleasant to sit warm and protected, behind the Beach Chalet's windows.) Casual brew-pub atmosphere, with somewhat overpriced burgers and seafood. Sunday-Thursday 11:30 am-11 pm, Friday-Saturday 11:30-2 am, Sunday brunch 11:30-3pm. $. Most major credit cards. Above the Visitors Center, an old Spanish-style building. 1000 Great Highway. Phone 415-386-8439.

Fringale—This restaurant offers country French food, from the expected to the unusual, served by hand-picked French and Basque waitpersons. The chef, Gerald Hirigoyen, prefers to maintain his strong and varied menu while changing individual ingredients. Small and intimate with an elegant and calm interior. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-3 pm, daily 5:30-11:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. In SoMa (South of Market district). 570 4th St. Phone 415-543-0573.

Garden Court—The resplendent stained-glass dome and brilliant chandeliers make this SoMa dining experience legendary, and the outstanding California-French menu lives up to the decor. Sunday's champagne brunch is splendid. Monday-Sunday 6:30-11 am and 11:30 am-2 pm, Wednesday-Saturday 6-10 pm, Sunday brunch 11:30 am-2 pm, tea Wednesday-Saturday 2-5 pm. Reservations advisable. Coat and tie recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. At Market Street, in the Palace Hotel. 2 New Montgomery St. Phone 415-392-8600.

Stars—Executive chef Daniel DeLong delivers "new American" classics in this bustling brasserie, which claims to have the longest bar in San Francisco. Popular with opera-, symphony- and ballet-goers, this is a great site for people watching. Desserts are phenomenal. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, Sunday and Monday 5:30-10 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm, late-supper menu Tuesday Saturday 10:30-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Civic Center. 555 Golden Gate Ave. Phone 415-861-7827.

ASIAN
Khan Toke Thai House—One of the city's first Thai restaurants, this Richmond institution continues to excel. A great introduction to Thai cuisine, particularly the six-course dinners. Seasoning is mild unless you ask for hot. Daily 5-10 pm. Informal dress. Reservations advised. $$. Most major credit cards. 5937 Geary Blvd. (cross street is 23rd), phone 415-668-6654.

Pot Sticker—In the heart of Chinatown, on a street lined with colorful balconies, this legendary place specializes in Mandarin cuisine, notably dumplings. Other favorites include the leek turnovers and (of course) the namesake pot stickers. Open daily 11 am-10 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 150 Waverly Place (Chinatown), phone 415-397-9985.

Sam Woh's—This has been a classic, bare-bones Chinese diner for more than 30 years. Enter the narrow doorway and a disgruntled chef holding a butchered chicken yells at you and waves you up the stairway. A waiter throws a simple menu your way and tells you what to order. Don't worry—it's all an act, and the thick rice pudding and chow fun noodles are excellent. Monday-Saturday 11 am-1 am, Sunday 11:30 am-9:30 pm. No reservations. $. No credit cards. 813 Washington St., phone 415-982-0596.

Tommy Toy's—This combination of French and exquisite haute cuisine chinoise succeeds very well. The intimate dining room has a luxurious Chinese decor. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and dinner daily 6-9:30 pm. Jacket and tie recommended for dinner. Reservations advisable. $$$. Most major credit cards. 655 Montgomery St. (across from the Transamerica Pyramid), phone 415-397-4888.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH
Sears Fine Foods—There is usually a short wait to be seated at Sears, which attests to the popularity of this 60-year-old San Francisco breakfast institution. Waffles and Swedish pancakes are typically ordered smothered in whipped cream and fresh strawberries. Wednesday-Sunday 7 am-3:30 pm. Informal. Reservations accepted for six or more only; otherwise prepare to chat up your neighbors in line. $. No credit cards. 439 Powell St. (between Post and Sutter), phone 415-986-1160.

FRENCH
Fleur de Lys—A fine example of French elegance and taste, this restaurant's creations reflect the skilled hand of executive chef Hubert Keller. Two splendid examples: his lamb with parsnips, anise and Merlot sauce; and squab with vegetables, capers and port wine sauce. Monday-Saturday two seatings—5:30-6 pm and 8-8:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 777 Sutter St. (Union Square), phone 415-673-7779.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)
Fior d'Italia—This, the oldest Italian restaurant in the U.S. (1886), has been tastefully refurbished and remains a welcome alternative to the city's "New Age" Italian joints. A great old-timer scene continues at the bar, while the lushly furnished restaurant provides excellent lasagna, tripe specials, steak sauteed with peppers and onions, and seven different preparations of veal, including osso buco. Check out the private dining rooms called The Godfather and the Tony Bennett Room. Open daily 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Coat and tie preferred. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 601 Union St. (North Beach), phone 415-986-1886

Julius' Castle—The fabulous view from atop Telegraph Hill, candlelight and an ambience stemming from its 1922 beginnings have earned the Castle a reputation as the city's most romantic restaurant. Daily 5-10 pm. Jacket preferred. Reservations advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1541 Montgomery St. (adjacent to Coit Tower), phone 415-362-3042.

Rose Pistola—The young and trendy mix with traditional Italian families eating Genoese- and Ligurian-style cioppino, local fish and wood-hearth braised dishes. Lunch daily 11:30 am-5 pm; dinner Sunday-Thursday 5:30-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11:30 pm; late-night menu Sunday-Thursday 10:30-midnight, Friday and Saturday 11:30 pm-1 am. Most major credit cards. $$. 532 Columbus Ave. (North Beach), phone 415-399-0499.

LATE NIGHT
Caffe Trieste—One of San Francisco's oldest coffeehouses, dating from the Beatnik era. It continues to attract bohemians who crave freshly baked Italian pastries with their cappuccino. Impromptu opera performances Saturday afternoons (arrive early for a table). Weekdays 7 am-11 pm, weekends 7 am-midnight. No reservations. $. No credit cards. 601 Vallejo St. (North Beach), phone 415-392-6739.

Yuet Lee Seafood—Late-night owls prowling the streets of North Beach often find themselves in this brightly lit cafe on flashy Broadway Avenue. Prices are low, service is speedy and the Chinese hotpot specialties are some of the best in town. The salt-and-pepper squid is stir-fried fresh. Wednesday-Monday 11 am-3 am. Reservations suggested. $. No credit cards. 1300 Stockton St. (at Broadway), phone 415-982-6020.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES
Chez Panisse—With an upstairs cafe and a downstairs restaurant, this great American restaurant has something for everyone. Led by culinary visionary Alice Waters, who insists upon using only organically grown vegetables and chemical-free meats, Chez Panisse rarely serves the same dish twice on its prix-fixe menu. This citadel is well worth a trip across the Bay Bridge. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-3 pm and 5-10 pm. Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-4 pm and 5-11:30 pm. Two seatings for the prix-fixe dinner at either 6-6:30 pm or 8:30-9:15 pm. Reservations required downstairs. Most major credit cards. $$-$$$$. 1517 Shattuck Ave. (Berkeley), phone 510-548-5525.

Cypress Club—Among the wildest-looking, yet upscale restaurants in San Francisco. Brilliant postmodern decor. Cutting-edge menu of California cuisine, with playful presentations. The wine list is perhaps unrivaled in the city. Live jazz nightly, valet parking. Sunday-Thursday 4:30-11 pm, Friday and Saturday to midnight. Coat and tie. Reservations necessary. $$$. Most major credit cards. 500 Jackson St. (Jackson Square), phone 415-296-8555.

Delancy Street—Hospitable, inexpensive retreat serving a variety of ethnic American foods, including low-fat and vegetarian. On sunny days, the outdoor patio affords wonderful views of the Bay Bridge and the WW II Liberty ship Jeremy O'Brien moored nearby. Tuesday-Friday 11 am-11 pm, brunch and dinner Saturday and Sunday 10 am-11 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 600 The Embarcadero (at Brannon), phone 415-512-5179.

Greens—This was one of the first vegetarian restaurants in the nation and remains one of the very best. So many tastes and textures are offered that even the most stalwart meat eaters could be converted. Produce comes from the garden at the Zen Center in Marin County; fresh-baked breads are derived from the much-prized Tassajara Bread Book. Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, Saturday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, Sunday brunch 10 am-2 pm; dinner Monday-Friday 5:30-9:30 pm, Saturday 6-9 pm (prix fixe). Most major credit cards. $-$$. Fort Mason Building A (Buchanan and Marina), phone 415-771-6222.

McCormick & Kuleto's—A seafood emporium in Ghirardelli Square with excellent views of Fisherman's Wharf and the bay beyond. Thirty varieties of fish and shellfish are prepared in 70 distinct ways. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-11 pm, Sunday 10:30 am-11 pm. Informal dress. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 900 N. Point St., phone 415-929-1730.

Moose's—Few restaurants have retained as much popularity over the years as Moose's, on the east side of Washington Park in North Beach. The food—so fresh—the lively atmosphere and the sense of comfort provided make this the gathering place for San Francisco's movers and shakers. Try the seared king salmon, baby back ribs and risotto with gremolata. Also good for a late-evening drink at the bar. Daily 11:30 am-10 pm. Informal. Reservations suggested. $$. Most major credit cards. 1652 Stockton St. (between Union and Filbert), phone 415-989-7800.

Nightlife

A zesty style has been a hallmark of San Francisco's character since the Gold Rush and Barbary Coast days. Nightlife in the city today offers something for every taste, from quiet piano bars on Nob Hill to trendy SoMa hot spots to colorful saloons downtown and in North Beach. The San Francisco Chronicle's Datebook—the pink section of the Sunday newspaper—is a good source for current nightlife.

BARS, TAVERNS AND PUBS
15 Romolo—This North Beach favorite is frequented by a hipster crowd attracted to the bar's slick interiors and eclectic, tres-cool jukebox selection, including such artists as Bowie, Beastie Boys and Massive Attack. 15 Romolo (off Columbus), phone 415-398-1359.

Buena Vista—Located on Fisherman's Wharf across the street from the Hyde Street cable-car stop, this establishment takes credit for originating Irish coffee. Full bar. Daily until 2 am. No credit cards. 2765 Hyde St., phone 415-474-5044.

Toronado—Though it looks a little bit like hell—dark and cavelike—beer connoisseurs will be in heaven when they discover the 50 beers on tap (the assortment changes regularly). Try a good West Coast pale ale, Belgian Tripel or tangy Hefeweizen. 547 Haight (at Fillmore), phone 415-863-2276.

Tosca's—A North Beach institution, a favorite for visiting celebrities, socialites and an assortment of creative people. Full bar. A traditional drink is their "white nun"—steamed milk and coffee with kahlua. Daily 5 pm-2 am. Most major credit cards. 242 Columbus Ave., phone 415-391-1244.

Vesuvio—Located just across Jack Kerouac Alley from City Lights Books, this bar is a rich piece of North Beach history. It's the perfect place for downing a pint or two while soaking up a "beat" atmosphere. A seat upstairs along windows facing Columbus Avenue is ideal for viewing the lively activity below. Open daily 6 am-2 am. 255 Columbus Ave. (at Broadway), phone 415-362-3370.

COMEDY CLUBS
Cobb's Comedy Club—Showcases top national and local comedians seven days a week. Full bar. Show times are Monday 8 pm, Tuesday-Sunday 9 pm, with additional 11 pm shows Friday and Saturday. Cover charges usually US$10-$13, but they do vary. Most major credit cards. The Cannery, 2801 Leavenworth St. (at Beach), phone 415-928-4320.

Punch Line—The largest and most elegant comedy club in the city books both local and national talent. Aspiring comedians every Sunday night. Restaurant and full bar. Sunday-Thursday 9 pm, Friday and Saturday 9 and 11 pm. Cover US$5-$15. Most major credit cards. 444 Battery St., 2nd Floor, phone 415-397-7573.

GAY/LESBIAN CLUBS
The Stud—This gay nightclub supplies terrific dance music (on Wednesdays it's Oldies Night). Operates nightly 5 pm-2 am (later Friday and Saturday). Friday night is for women. Cover US$2-$6. 399 9th St., phone 415-863-6623.

LIVE MUSIC
Cafe du Nord—A basement speakeasy during Prohibition, today it serves as a center of the bohemian crowd, with its smoky ambience, historic long bar and entertainment spanning hot salsa to trendy lounge acts. Nightly 4 pm-2 am (dinner Wednesday-Saturday), entertainment at 9 pm. No cover before 9 pm; afterward ranges up to US$10. Most major credit cards. 2170 Market St., phone 415-861-5016.

Jazz at Pearl's—A North Beach bargain, where the talent is high and the cover often nonexistent (even on some weekends). Full bar. Music Monday-Saturday 9 pm-1 am. Most major credit cards. 256 Columbus Ave. (near Broadway), phone 415-291-8255.

John Lee Hooker's Boom Boom Room—An authentic blues venue, one of the few west of Antone's in Austin, Texas. Live rhythm and blues showcased Tuesday-Sunday at 9 pm. This is a popular dance spot for the thirty-something crowd. Cover charge US$2-$7, free Sunday. No credit cards. 1601 Fillmore St., phone 415-673-8000.

Justice League—With an interior awash in graffiti art, this club is a haven for the cutting-edge and diverse. Performances range from hip hop, electronics and drum 'n' bass to a cappella and African music. In addition to live music, the club hosts deejay parties every night of the week. Doors open at 9 pm. Cover charge US$5-$15. 628 Divisadero (at Hayes), phone 415-289-2038.

Slim's—Located in a borderline-industrial section of town, Slim's has a warehousey, utilitarian feel that's perfect for the rock bands that play there. Local groups, as well as up-and-coming national acts, perform. There are a few tables and chairs near the bar, but be prepared to remain on your feet, especially if there's a crowd. Cover charge US$10-$20. 311 11th St. (off Harrison), phone 415-824-4190.

NIGHTCLUBS
Bahia Cabana—A Brazilian restaurant from 5-10 pm, then the salsa begins, with either live bands or a deejay. Open daily. Cover US$7-$10 (free on Tuesday). 1600 Market St., phone 415-626-3306.

DNA Lounge—Provides dancing nightly for a Generation X crowd. Expect poetry, fashion shows and frenzied dancing and behavior. Full bar. Daily 8:30 pm-4 am. Cover US$5 and up. Most major credit cards. 375 11th St. (at Harrison), phone 415-626-1409.

El Rio—Farther south than most Mission haunts, this bar/disco, with a large outdoor patio, caters to those seeking world dance music in a laid-back atmosphere. The crowd is—even for San Francisco—very mixed: Latino/Gringo, gay/straight, etc. Cover charge US$3-$8. 3158 Mission (at Precita), phone 415-282-3158.

Harry Denton's—On the Embarcadero overlooking the Bay Bridge and the waterfront, has quickly become one of the city's trendiest and most upscale clubs. It features jazz, blues and soul in one room and deejay music in another. Full bar, a full restaurant during the day. Dancing begins at 10 pm. Thursday-Saturday. Cover US$10 Thursday, US$15 Friday and Saturday. Most major credit cards. 161 Steuart St., phone 415-882-1333.

Harry Denton's Starlight Room—This famous nightclub on the top floor of the Sir Francis Drake Hotel exudes sophistication. Breathtaking views and excellent music ranging from big band to blues. Nightly 4:30 pm-2 am (reservations accepted for dinner before 8:30 pm). No cover. Most major credit cards. 450 Powell St., phone 415-395-8595.

Mercury Lounge—Former site of DV8, this new club has been transformed into a very sleek restaurant/bar/disco. The disco's in the basement, with a silver-monochromatic theme, accentuated by many, many mirrors—currently the glammest place in town. Cover charge (for disco) Friday and Saturday US$20. 540 Howard (at 2nd Street), phone 415-777-1419.

The Great American Music Hall—This is one of the city's legendary music venues. This marble-pillared, circa 1907 emporium is dedicated to great pop and jazz, top-drawer entertainers and dancing. Full bar. Shows usually begin at 8 pm, but vary. Cover US$5-$20. No credit cards. 859 O'Farrell St., phone 415-885-0750.

Top of the Mark—This site has been a Nob Hill landmark since 1939, and after renovation, it glows. Spectacular views. High tea Monday-Friday 3-5 pm, live entertainment (swing, jazz, R&B) starting nightly at 8:30 pm. Cover US$6-$10. Sunday brunch 10 am-2 pm. Most major credit cards. 1 Nob Hill (in the Mark Hopkins Inter-Continental Hotel), phone 415-616-6916.

Performing Arts

San Francisco prides itself on its openness to cultural offerings, and nowhere is this more apparent than at the Performing Arts Center adjacent to the Civic Center on Van Ness Avenue (between McAllister and Grove). The Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall, War Memorial Opera House, Veteran's Building and Ballet Building together make up one of the largest performing arts centers in North America (total seating: 6,923).

The San Francisco Opera is one of the finest opera companies in the world, and the San Francisco Ballet has been acclaimed not only for its dancers, but also for its choreographic achievements in classical ballet and contemporary work. Innovative and experimental performance and dance companies abound in the city. For theater, club and concert listings, see the pink pages in the Sunday San Francisco Examiner or pick up a copy of the San Francisco Bay Guardian and SF Weekly, both free and available on Wednesday.

Call these venues for performance schedules and ticket availability: Theatre Artaud, 450 Florida St. (at 17th), phone 415-621-7797; ODC Theatre, 3153 17th St. (at Shotwell), phone 415-863-9834; the Center for the Arts at Yerba Buena Gardens, 701 Mission St. (next to the Moscone Center), phone 415-978-2787; and Cowell Theater in Fort Mason at Buchanan and Marina Boulevard, phone 415-441-3687.

Make reservations and purchase tickets for performances as far in advance as possible. Even smaller, lesser-known events sell out ahead of time.

DANCE
Chinese Cultural Productions—This organization presents creative and authentic Chinese dance and music programs. Call for its schedule of public performances. 1286 Pacific Ave., phone 415-474-4829.

San Francisco Ballet—Now in its 67th year, the SFB is the oldest professional ballet company in the U.S. The regular performance season runs early February-mid May, following the company's holiday presentation of its hugely popular Nutcracker in December. The troupe performs in the renovated War Memorial Opera House. 301 Van Ness Ave., phone 415-441-3687.

FILM
Castro Cinema—The Castro Cinema presents independent, foreign and repertory film programs. Check the newspaper or call the theater for schedule information: the Castro Cinema, Castro at Market, phone 415-621-6120. Other cinemas to consider include: the Clay Cinema, 2261 Fillmore, phone 415-352-0810; the Lumiere Cinema, California at Polk, phone 415-352-0810; the Red Vic, 1727 Haight, phone 415-668-3994; and the Roxie Cinema, 3117 16th at Valencia, phone 415-863-1087.

MUSIC
San Francisco Chamber Symphony—This is a professional ensemble with guest artists. Its season runs November-May at the Herbst Theatre in the Veteran's Building, 401 Van Ness Ave., phone 415-621-6600.

San Francisco Conservatory of Music—Public concerts are performed in Hellman Hall, 1201 Ortega St. Box office: 415-759-3475; 24-hour music line: 415-759-3477.

San Francisco Symphony—Now in its 87th year, the orchestra performs in Davies Symphony Hall, which has been remodeled and acoustically enhanced. The symphony also maintains a performance schedule of special events, including a Beethoven and Mozart Festival in June and the Pops Concerts in July. Regular season runs September-June and showcases many world-renowned artists and conductors. Music director is Michael Tilson Thomas. Van Ness Avenue at Grove Street. Symphony box office: 415-864-6000.

OPERA
San Francisco Opera—One of the great opera companies of the world and now in its 77th year, its productions benefit from the wonderful acoustics at the elegantly refurbished War Memorial Opera House. (Some call the upper balconies "accoustical heaven.") The season runs mid September-January and June. Call well in advance for tickets. If you go, be aware that coat checks are available on several floors. 301 Van Ness Ave., phone 415-861-4008. Opera box office: 415-864-3330.

THEATER
American Conservatory Theater—Known as A.C.T., San Francisco's Tony Award-winning repertory theater presents a rich season of classic and contemporary works in the beautifully restored Geary Theater. Season runs September-July, Tuesday-Sunday. 415 Geary St., phone 415-749-2228.

Berkeley Repertory Theater—Intimate, projected-stage theater with a terrific mix of projects, ranging from traditional to experimental, and a creative, talented crew of set designers. Season runs September-June (Tuesday-Saturday and Sunday matinee). 2025 Addison, Berkeley, phone 510-845-4700.

Club Fugazi—For a uniquely San Francisco experience, Beach Blanket Babylon at Club Fugazi is a zany, fast-paced, cabaret-style show with an ever changing cast of celebrity caricatures. The musical revue is now in its 24th year. Expect lots of hat-related humor. Highly recommended, but buy your tickets well in advance and ask how early you should show up. (The line sometimes forms 45 minutes before curtain—and your place in line determines your exact seat.) Wednesday and Thursday 8 pm, Friday and Saturday 7 and 10 pm, Sunday 3 and 7 pm. 678 Green St., phone 415-421-4222.

Downtown Theater District—San Francisco's Theater District is concentrated near Union Square on Geary, Mason and Market Streets. Three major theaters are the Curran theater, the Orpheum theater, and the Golden Gate theater, 1 Taylor (at Market). They're operated by the same company. For schedule information, call 415-474-3800. For tickets, call Bass Tickets, 415-776-1999.

Exit Theater—The range is from experimental to classical, with a lively mix of cast and set design. The organization produces San Francisco Fringe in September—a series of works in four or five theaters within walking distance of downtown. 156 Eddy, phone 415-673-3847.

Lorraine Hansberry Theater—An African-American drama group that presents contemporary drama and musicals based on African-American culture and history. 620 Sutter St. at Union Square (in the Sheehan Hotel), phone 415-474-8800.

TICKET BROKERS
Bass Tickets—Open Monday-Friday 9 am-8 pm, in Wherehouse Record locations at 165 Kearny St. and 30 Powell St.; at Tower Records at Bay and Columbus; and in all Giants Dugout locations. To order tickets by phone, call 415-478-2277 or (outside California) 800-225-2277.

City Box Office—Open Monday-Friday 9:30 am-5 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 pm, 153 Kearny St., phone 415-392-4400.

St. Francis Ticket Service—Handles choice seating for the opera, symphony, ballet, Broadway shows, theater and sporting events. Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Sunday 9 am-2 pm. Westin St. Francis Hotel, Union Square, phone 415-362-3500, fax 415-362-5396.

TIX Bay Area—Located on Union Square between Post and Geary. Half-price tickets often available on the day of performance. Open Tuesday-Thursday 11 am-6 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-7 pm. 251 Stockton St., phone 415-433-7827.

Spectator Sports

San Francisco is a big sports town. The NFL 49ers and the National League Baseball Giants play in Candlestick Park (3 ComPark), which is 8 mi/13 km south of downtown—a shuttle bus runs from downtown. It can be windy there, so dress warmly. The NBA's Golden State Warriors play basketball at the Oakland Coliseum. Oakland is also home to the American League Baseball Oakland Athletics and the AFL Oakland Raiders. Horse racing fans can head to Bay Meadows Race Track in San Mateo for Thoroughbred racing Wednesday-Sunday.

BASEBALL
Oakland Athletics—The Oakland Athletics (American League baseball)—known as the Oakland A's—play at the Coliseum April-October. Direct transportation from San Francisco is available via BART. To charge tickets by phone, call Bass Tickets, 415-478-2277. Oakland Coliseum Arena, 7000 Coliseum Way, Oakland, phone 510-986-2200 or 510-986-2222.

San Francisco Giants—The National Baseball League Giants play home games at 3Com Park (also known as Candlestick Park), from April-October. Coats and blankets are recommended even for summer home games, especially at night. Afternoon games begin at 1:05 pm, night games at 7:35 pm. For information, call 415-467-8000. To charge tickets by phone, call Bass Tickets, 415-478-2277.

BASKETBALL
Golden State Warriors—The Oakland Coliseum is the site of NBA play by the Golden State Warriors. Home season runs November-April. Games start at 7:30 pm. Direct transportation from San Francisco is available via BART. To charge tickets by phone, call Bass Tickets, 415-478-2277. Oakland Coliseum Arena, 7000 Coliseum Way, Oakland, phone 510-986-2200 or 510-986-2222.

FOOTBALL
San Francisco 49ers—About 8 mi/13 km south of downtown via the Bayshore Freeway (Highway 101) at the foot of Gilman Avenue is 3Com Park (also known as Candlestick Park), home of the San Francisco 49ers NFL football team.The 49ers play September-December. For information, call 415-656-4900. To charge tickets by phone, call Bass Tickets, 415-478-2277. (Tickets sell out for the 49ers by mid July. Call 415-656-4900 for cancellations.)

HORSE RACING
Bay Meadows Race Track—Located in San Mateo (Highway 101 to SR 92 to Delaware Street), Bay Meadows is the home of Thoroughbred horse racing in the Bay Area. Post time is 12:45 pm Wednesday-Sunday and Monday holidays. Friday night racing post time is 6 pm. 1999 season is 11-23 August, then 3 September-14 November. Tickets easily purchased on site. 2600 Delaware St., San Mateo, phone 650-574-7223.

Recreation

San Francisco is the epicenter of the larger Bay Area, which adds a whole gamut of recreational sights and activities to San Francisco's culture and good looks. Best-bets recreation sites in the Bay Area are the giant redwoods of Muir Woods, the charming bayside city of Sausalito and the coastline of Marin County.

BEACHES
Baker Beach—Baker Beach, a section of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, offers an opportunity for strolling in the sand and nice views of the Golden Gate Bridge but is unsafe for swimming.

China Beach—Relax a bit at China Beach (clothing optional), where swiming in the surf is safe and monitored by a life guard on duty mid-April to mid-October. It's adjacent to Baker Beach in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area.

Point Reyes National Seashore—This outstanding coastal park on the Point Reyes Peninsula, extending 30 miles north of San Francisco on Highway 1, has secluded beaches and miles of hiking trails along verdant ridges. Whale watching is possible from shore in season (January through April). The park offers camping, hiking, horseback riding, biking, an interpretive center (at Bear Valley) and a lighthouse. Lodging is available in the nearby towns of Point Reyes Station and Inverness, or try the youth hostel in the park.

Stinson Beach—A little farther north on Highway 1 beyond Muir Woods and Muir Beach is Stinson Beach, a nice, white-sand shore area where San Franciscans often rent cabins for a weekend getaway.

BICYCLING
Bikes & Blades—Rents four-wheel surreys, tandems and Rollerblades. 50 Stow Lake Dr. (in Golden Gate Park), phone 415-668-6699.

Marina Skate & Snowboard—2271 Chestnut, phone 415-567-8400.

Skates on Haight—1818 Haight, phone 415-752-8375.

Start to Finish—Rents mountain bikes for US$25 per day. 672 Stanyan, phone 415-750-4760.

BIRD WATCHING
Angel Island State Park—The largest island in San Francisco Bay, Angel Island was formerly a quarantine station for Asian immigrants, a prisoner-of-war camp and a Nike missile site. It's now home to hundreds and hundreds of far-from-timid seabirds. Get there by taking the Angel Island State Park Ferry from Tiburon or San Francisco.

Audubon Canyon Ranch—Farther north on Highway 1 beyond Muir Woods and past Stinson Beach is the Audubon Canyon Ranch, a wildlife sanctuary with large populations of great blue herons and great egrets.

BOATING AND SAILING
Adventure Cat Sailing Charters—Sails the bay on catamarans. Gourmet catering and full bar service. Bay cruise travels 20 mi/32 km under sail. US$25 adults, US$12 children ages 5-12, free for children under age 5. Sunset cruise sails from about 6:30-9 pm. US$30. All-day wine cruise includes wine tasting onboard, brunch and tour of Napa winery. Whale-watching cruises are also arranged in season. Pier 39, Jay Dock. Phone 415-777-1630.

Rendezvous Charters—Lets you choose from more than 40 sailboats, skippered or bareboat, including the largest certified sailing vessel in San Francisco: The square-rigged Rendezvous brunch cruise sails Sunday 11 am-2 pm. US$39. Skippered and bareboat rates range from US$67-$1,625. Pier 40, South Beach Harbor, phone 415-543-7333.

GOLF
Golden Gate Park Course—A superb test over a short 1,357 yds/1,241 m in a tricky layout. Nine holes, par 27. US$10 weekdays, US$13 weekends. 47th Avenue and Fulton Street (in the Park), phone 415-751-8987.

Harding Park—Harding Park, heavily forested with Monterey cypress and pine trees, actually has two courses. Harding Park offers 18 holes, par 72. US$26 weekdays, US$31 weekends. Fleming Course is patterned after the famed championship course, but is shorter and flatter. Nine holes, par 32. US$13 weekdays and weekends. Skyline Boulevard and Harding Park Road, phone 415-664-4690 or 415-661-1865.

Lincoln Park Course—The oldest course in San Francisco, and unparalleled for its natural ruggedness, Golden Gate and bay views. Eighteen holes, par 68. US$23 weekdays, US$27 weekends. 34th Avenue and Clement Street, phone 415-221-9911.

HEALTH CLUBS
24-Hour Nautilus Fitness Centers—One of Northern California's largest chains, it offers Cybex, Nautilus, treadmills, Stairmasters, aerobic classes and more. Open continuously Monday 4:30 am to Friday at midnight, Saturday and Sunday 8 am-8 pm. About US$15 per day for nonmembers. 100 California St., phone 415-434-5080. (Five other locations in San Francisco.)

Club One—A high-quality fitness center conveniently located in the Financial District. Monday-Friday 5 am-9 pm. About US$15 per day. 1 Sansome St., mezzanine level, phone 415-399-1010. (There are several other Club One centers in the city.)

Kabuki Springs and Spa—A renowned Japanese spa and shiatsu massage center located in Japantown. Daily 10 am-10 pm by appointment only. US$35-$65. 1750 Geary Blvd., phone 415-922-6002.

HIKING AND WALKING
Embarcadero—Start your activities at the foot of Market Street, along the new Embarcadero esplanade, for views of the East Bay, Alcatraz and, finally, the Golden Gate Bridge.

Golden Gate Bridge—The Golden Gate Bridge itself offers an invigorating walk (a little over a mile) with scenery to boot. Bring warm clothes and avoid rush hours. See details under Landmarks.

Golden Gate National Recreation Area—The Golden Gate National Recreation Area, embracing much of the City's shoreline (including the Presidio), continues across the bay where trails explore the Marin Headlands. Trail maps may be picked up at ranger stations, phone 415-331-1540.

Golden Gate Park—A 3-mi-/5-km-long urban refuge for hikers, with trails winding through meadows and over hills. On Sundays, John F. Kennedy Drive is closed to vehicles to allow runners, Rollerbladers, cyclists and skateboarders free rein.

TENNIS AND RACQUET SPORTS
Recreation and Parks Department—The city's Recreation and Parks Department has more than 100 tennis courts throughout the City that are free and open year round. There's a nominal fee to use the 21 courts in Golden Gate Park. For court location and to make advance reservations (for weekends only), call 415-753-7101.

San Francisco Tennis Club—This club is a full service, indoor tennis facility. Available through selected hotels for visitors. 645 5th St., phone 415-777-9000.

Day Trips

To Berkeley. Often referred to as the People's Republic of Berkeley for its radical past and still-liberal leanings, this neighboring town is only 8 mi/13 km east of San Francisco, across the Bay Bridge. Berkeley, hip and fast moving, offers stimulating theater, lectures and art, as well as upscale shopping without parking trauma.

You can start with a tour of the University of California campus—a 90-minute guided tour starts at 10 am Monday-Saturday and 1 pm Sunday. (Visitors Center, University Hall, Room 101, at University and Oxford Streets, phone 510-642-5215. Open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-4:30 pm. On weekends go to the desk at the bell tower for tours.)

Or go straight to the University of California Museum, which has a great permanent art collection and temporary exhibits that feature the work of local painters, sculptors and architects. Wednesday-Saturday 11 am-5 pm, phone 510-642-0808.

On the way to Tilden Park, along the top of the East Bay hills, stop in at the Lawrence Hall of Science, a science museum with exciting hands-on exhibits (good for kids). Daily 10 am-5 pm, phone 510-642-5132. On the way down from the hills, walk through the Rose Garden on Euclid Street, across from Cordenices Park, for a spectacular bay view. Telegraph Avenue, formerly the center of hippie commerce, still sells the bizarre and the unusual, but it has become very grungy with many panhandlers and people sleeping on the street. On the other hand, 4th Street (between Hearst and Delaware) is an upscale shopping experience with coffee shops, a teahouse, fine restaurants, bookstores, boutiques and parking.

A car or taxi is required for getting around much of Berkeley, but public transportation will get you there. A.C. Transit buses leave from the Trans-Bay Terminal, 425 Mission St. (at 1st Street) in San Francisco and run up University Avenue, through the center of Berkeley, all the way to the university (US$1.25). On BART from downtown San Francisco, the Richmond line goes to Berkeley, with Ashby Avenue and Berkeley exits, both downtown (US$2.65).

To the Wine Country. Every year some 3 million visitors head north of San Francisco to the heart of California's wine country. It's about an hour's drive to the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, which have several hundred wineries—most open daily for tastings, many for tours. Cycling, hot-air ballooning, galleries and dining, too. For Napa information, call 707-226-7459. For Sonoma information, call 707-575-1191 or 800-326-7666. For wine information, write or call the Wine Institute, 425 Market St., Suite 1000, San Francisco, 94105, phone 415-512-0151.

To the Monterey Peninsula. The two-and-a-half-hour trip south to the Monterey Peninsula leads to what many consider the state's most scenic coast. Renowned for their art galleries, both the quaint village of Carmel and historic Monterey offer visitors outstanding shopping, dining and a host of outdoor delights, including world-famous golf courses. The 17-Mile Drive linking Monterey and Carmel is an hour-long tour of magnificent seaside sights. (Entrance fee US$5.75.) Coastal Highway 1 (SR 1) is the most scenic route to the Monterey Peninsula (133 mi/214 km). Another half hour south of Carmel are the rugged, spectacular Big Sur coast and redwood groves.

To Alcatraz. This grim complex of buildings on a rockpile in San Francisco Bay (a former federal prison) draws hundreds of visitors daily, partly because of a fascination with criminals, partly because the ferry ride to the island is wonderfully scenic and refreshing. Upon arrival, make sure you pick up a copy of the audiotaped tour for a fascinating narrated guide to the history and architecture of the place and some of its infamous inmates. Frequent Blue & Gold Ferry departures from Pier 41, Fisherman's Wharf. US$11 adults, US$5.75 children ages 5-11; includes the audiotape. Call ahead, as far as possible, to make reservations. Reserve your ferry tickets by phone, so you can pick them up at the Will Call window—you won't have to wait in line (phone 415-546-2628). Blue & Gold Ferry: 415-705-5555 or 415-705-5444.

To Tiburon and Sausalito. These charming and peaceful bayside towns are less than 10 mi/16 km from downtown San Francisco, even closer directly across the bay by ferry. Often compared in climate and style with Mediterranean villages, they are too close and too rewarding to overlook. Each of the picturesque hillside villages has its special charm, shops and waterside dining. If you're visiting in the summer or early fall, make this trip during the week—Sausalito gets very crowded on sunny weekends. The Blue & Gold ferry departs for Sausalito and Tiburon from Pier 41 at Fisherman's Wharf. Phone 415-705-5555 or 415-705-5444. The Golden Gate ferry departs daily to Sausalito from the south end of the Ferry Building (Embarcadero at the foot of Market Street). Phone 415-923-2000.

To Angel Island State Park. Just a brief ferry ride from Fisherman's Wharf, this 740-acre/300-hectare rustic park offers spectacular views of the Bay Area and is ideal for picnics, hiking, bicycling and jogging. Several campsites are available. Blue & Gold ferries to Angel Island depart from Pier 41 on weekends and holidays every two hours starting at 10 am; the last return ferry departs the island at 4:35 pm. Park fees are included in the round-trip ferry costs: US$10 adults, US$5.50 children ages 5-11. P.O. Box 318, Tiburon, 94920-0318. Ranger station phone: 415-435-5390. Recorded information: 415-435-1915.

Local Tours

You may want to arrange your own tour of the city. (Check with your travel agent first: You may be able to book a tour in advance.) A variety of companies offer everything from city walking tours to bay sailing excursions.

Weather

Expect a moderate climate in San Francisco, where cool summers and mild winters almost blend into one. Temperatures in the city seldom rise above 70 F/21 C or fall below 40 F/4 C. Morning and evening fog is common during summer months, but rarely remains through the day. (Little or no rain falls from June to September.) Winter average maximum temperatures are in the high 50s F/10 C and only drop to the upper 40s F/4 C at night. The weather in San Francisco literally varies from neighborhood to neighborhood—it may be sunny and pleasant in one area and foggy and cool in another. No season is really out of the question for a visit, though September and October are the warmest and driest. A jacket is necessary at all times of year, preferably something windproof: There's often a strong breeze, especially around the bay or ocean.

Nearby Marin County enjoys similarly moderate weather, although its location, sheltered from the cool ocean winds, keeps it warmer and sunnier than San Francisco (it's also cooler at night). Expect temperatures to reach 85 F/29 C in some Marin County communities. The summer-morning fog or cloud cover usually clears well before noon.

What to Wear

It's best to wear layers of clothing in cool (sometimes downright cold) San Francisco—you can peel them off if the day warms up. (This is a good place to experiment with synthetic fabrics that "wick away" moisture.) You might also want to keep a lightweight scarf with you to ward off the chill. Casual clothes are fine during the day. Business casual clothes are commonly worn at night. Some restaurants have strict dress codes, so ask when making reservations. Shorts will make you stand out as a tourist—and you'll be chilly as well.

Transportation

Traveling about this compact city can be efficient, convenient and—if you ride one of the original cable cars—fun. Many San Franciscans prefer public and commercial transportation to the hassles of driving. The city's infamous hills and lack of parking spaces aren't impossible obstacles to overcome, but why burden yourself with these challenges when you have so many good options for transportation? Public transport is quick—once it comes, and when you're close to Market Street. Some of San Francisco's streets are so steep that sidewalks can be stairs (in fact, some hills are even too steep for cars and can only be scaled on foot). Traffic during rush hours is a challenge even for the cabdrivers, so always allow extra time in your planning.

San Francisco is a city for walking, whether for fun or getting around on business. But beware of those scenic hills: Never cross against a light, even if there's no traffic in sight. The hills obstruct your view of oncoming traffic (and beat cops on bikes issue fines for jaywalking). Sometimes a short walk up a steep street isn't worth the exhausting effort; it might be better to ride a cable car, call a taxi or use a courtesy car provided by the nicer hotels. Someone once said, "When you get tired of walking around San Francisco, you can always lean against it."

AIR
Oakland International Airport (OAK)—Oakland International Airport (OAK), 22 mi/35 km across the bay, also serves San Francisco visitors, so you may want to check flights to see if arrival and departure times are more convenient there. The Oakland airport is usually about 30-40 minutes from downtown San Francisco by car or BART, but can be longer depending on traffic.

Connecting transportation:

AirBART—AirBART shuttle bus provides service between Oakland airport and the Oakland Coliseum BART station. AirBART information: 510-577-4090. You must purchase a coupon in advance inside the terminal for US$2. Board the bus in front of the airport terminal. Buses leave approximately every 15 minutes. Last service is at midnight.

San Francisco International Airport (SFO)—The airport is located 16 mi/26 km south of downtown San Francisco, normally about 30 minutes by car during regular traffic. Because of an expansion of the International Terminal and construction of an airport station for BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit), allow an additional 15-30 minutes to get back and forth from the airport. Each of the three terminals—South, North and International—has an upper level for departures and a lower level for arrivals and baggage claim. Visitor Information booths are open 8 am-midnight on the lower level of all three terminals. Translation is available in more than 150 languages. The informative Guide to Ground Transportation Services and Parking (lists all services, including schedules, costs, maps, taxis, rental cars) and Guide to Airlines, Airport Facilities and Services (great airport map and listing of services) can be picked up at the three-sided stainless-steel kiosks in the baggage claim area. Copies are also available from airport information counters, from Travelers Aid booths, and from Landside Operations, P.O. Box 8097, San Francisco, CA 94128, phone 650-794-6500.

Connecting transportation:

Airport Bus—The SFO Airporter bus serves downtown San Francisco every 30 minutes, 6 am-midnight, US$10 one way, US$20 round trip. Picks up at all three terminals of SFO International Airport at marked stops. Phone 415-495-8404.

The SamTrans 7B North bus picks up at the North and International Terminals (upper levels) at SFO International Airport and runs to downtown San Francisco. It operates daily, every 30 minutes, 5:30 am-1 am. Exact change, US$2.50, is required. Phone 800-660-4287.

Rental Cars—If you must rent a car (downtown parking garages can cost US$20-$30 per day), these rental companies are available by shuttle at the San Francisco Airport: Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz and National.

Airport taxis—Yellow-striped pillars identify taxi stands on the center island in the street just outside the baggage claims at SFO International Airport. Cabs are available 24 hours. Fare to downtown San Francisco is approximately US$30 for one or more passengers (with no more than three drop-offs).

Airport limousine—For limousine service, dial 70433 on one of the white courtesy phones located in the baggage claim areas on the lower levels of all SFO airport terminals. US$35 and up for private service and US$10 per person for shared rides to downtown.

Disabled passengers—The best bargain for disabled passengers between the airport and San Francisco is SuperShuttle's access van, available 24 hours with advance reservations. US$11. Phone 800-258-3826.

Shuttles —More than a dozen door-to-door vans operate from outside the upper level of all terminals. All charge approximately US$12 one way and US$20 round trip and provide service to any location in San Francisco. When departing San Francisco, reserve a shuttle 24-48 hours in advance of your flight. One of the best (and most reliable) is SuperShuttle, 24 hours, phone 800-258-3826, since it guarantees no more than three stops (except during holiday seasons). Others include American Airporter Shuttle, 24 hours, phone 415-546-6689; Bay Shuttle, 24 hours, phone 415-564-3400; and M & M, 24 hours, phone 800-286-0303.

Hotel Shuttles—Free shuttles are available only to hotels and motels near the SFO International Airport. Shuttles stop at the island in front of the International, North and South terminals on the lower level.

BUS
Golden Gate Transit—The Golden Gate Transit bus service provides regional fixed-rout ebus and ferry service linking San Francisco, Marin and Sonoma Counties. Limited bus service is available beween Marin and Contra Costa Counties. Limited local bus service is provided within Marin County. 1011 Anderson Dr., San Rafael, phone 415-923-2000.

Greyhound Bus—The Greyhound Bus Lines depot is in the Trans-Bay Terminal, 425 Mission St. (at 1st Street), phone 415-495-1575 or 800-231-2222.

SamTrans Bus—The SamTrans bus system links San Francisco south on the peninsula as far as San Jose. Sam Trans operates daily 5:30 am-1 am. Exact change is required. For information on schedules and fares, phone 800-660-4287.

CAR
The two main north-south routes through the City are Highway 101 (known as the Bayshore Freeway south of town) and I-280. The alternative and scenic coastal Highway 1 (SR 1) merges with Highway 101 at the Golden Gate Bridge. I-280 merges with Highway 101 as it enters from the south and then links with I-80, the main east-west route across the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge. Earthquake repairs no longer hamper I-280 inside the City—I-280 now has an off-ramp at 4th and King, on the southeast side of the city (South of Market). To reach the city center, get off at 4th and King, go past the train station to 3rd Street and turn left. The (so-called) Central Freeway ends at Fell Street now. (Proceeding on Fell takes you directly to Golden Gate Park.) You must pay tolls when entering San Francisco on the Golden Gate Bridge from the north (US$3) and on the Bay Bridge from the east (US$2).

Three San Francisco laws are of special importance to drivers: Don't block intersections; always give cable cars the right-of-way; and curb your wheels on hilly streets—which means you turn your wheels toward the curb when you're facing downhill, toward the street when you're facing uphill. The antigridlock law requires that you be clear of intersections when a traffic light turns red. Watch for Don't Block the Intersection signs (usually posted at major downtown intersections) because the fine is US$103 if you don't heed them. You can also be fined US$40 for blocking unmarked intersections.

Always set your emergency brake when parked on a hill. Also, remember that California pedestrians have—and aggressively exercise—the right-of-way at crosswalks.

Parking is limited throughout the City (downtown parking garages can cost US$20-$30 per day). The San Francisco Department of Parking and Traffic offers a handy Parking Downtown Guide of city-owned garages and useful tips: phone 415-554-9811. For recorded parking information, call 415-554-7275. The Fastline—a traffic information hotline—is 415-817-1717. The most useful and economical public parking lots are the Stockton Street garage, near Union Square, and the Mission Street garage at Mission and 5th Streets. Another good municipal lot is at Union Square.

Rental Cars—If you must rent a car (downtown parking garages can cost US$20-$30 per day), these rental companies are available by shuttle at the San Francisco Airport: Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz and National.

FERRY
Four passenger ferries crisscross San Francisco Bay, docking at Alameda, Alcatraz, Angel Island, Larkspur, Oakland, Sausalito, Tiburon and Vallejo.

Blue & Gold Fleet—The Blue & Gold Fleet operates daily from the Ferry Building (foot of Market Street) and Pier 39 (at Fisherman's Wharf) to Oakland's Jack London Waterfront and Alameda's Main Street dock. One-way fares: US$4.50 adults, US$2.50 seniors, disabled and military, US$1.50 children. Phone 510-522-3300. Ferries to Vallejo leave from the Ferry Building. One-way fares: US$7.50

Golden Gate Ferries—Golden Gate Ferries depart daily for Larkspur and Sausalito from the south end of the Ferry Building (Embarcadero at the foot of Market Street). The Larkspur ferry is US$2.70 one way for adults on weekdays and US$4.70 on weekends and holidays. Seniors get a 50% discount, children (ages 6-12) get a 25% discount, and children under age 5 ride free. The Ferry to Sausalito leaves from Pier 41. One-way fares: US$5.50 adults, US$2.75 children ages 5-12. The ferry also goes to Tiburon from Pier 41—weekdays every three hours 11 am-5:40 pm, weekends every three hours 10 am-5:30 pm. US$5.50 adults, US$5 seniors, US$2.75 children ages 5-12. There's also a frequent daily ferry to Alcatraz and a two-hour cruise that passes under the Golden Gate Bridge. To avoid long lines at the dock, charge tickets by phone. Call 415-705-5555 or 415-705-5444.

Harbor Bay Maritime Ferries—Harbor Bay Maritime operates Monday-Friday between the Ferry Building (foot of Market Street) and Harbor Bay Island in Alameda. One-way fares: US$4 adults, US$3 seniors, US$2 children ages 6-12, free for children under age 6. Phone 415-247-1600.

Red & White Fleet—The Red & White Fleet operates ferries to Angel Island, departing from Pier 43½ daily in the summer and on weekends in the winter. Round-trip fare: US$10 adults, US$5.50 children ages 5-11. Ferries to Alcatraz Island depart from Pier 41 at Fisherman's Wharf. Round-trip fare (includes a self-guided audio tour): US$12 adults, US$7 children ages 5-11. Phone 415-447-0597 or 800-229-2784.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
The San Francisco Municipal Railway provides public transportation services within the city. Other public transit service by bus and train is available from San Francisco to other Bay Area locations: SamTrans goes to San Mateo County. CalTrain operates between San Francisco and Gilroy. Golden Gate Transit serves both Marin County and Sonoma County.

Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART)—This system links San Francisco to Daly City and to the East Bay, including Oakland. BART operates Monday-Friday 4 am-midnight, Saturday 6 am-midnight, Sunday 8 am-midnight. Ticket machines are located at all terminals. Fees range from US$1.10-$4.45. Terminals in downtown San Francisco are located along Market Street at the Embarcadero, Montgomery and Powell Streets, phone 415-992-2278.

Cable Cars—San Francisco's cable cars, which started running in 1873, are a national historic landmark. They're a form of cheap entertainment as well as transport—the conductors are real showmen, especially in their turnarounds at the ends of the lines. Cable cars, which are part of the San Francisco Municipal Railway (MUNI), travel three routes: From the corner of Powell and Market Streets, you can catch either the Powell-Mason line or the Powell-Hyde line. The first will take you over Nob Hill to the heart of Fisherman's Wharf and close to Pier 39 and the ferries to Alcatraz. The Powell-Hyde line travels over Nob Hill and Russian Hill, past Lombard (the Crookedest Street in the World), ending up at Ghirardelli Square on the western end of Fisherman's Wharf. The California Street line runs from the Embarcadero at Market Street through the Financial District and Chinatown over Nob Hill to Van Ness Avenue.

One-way cable car tickets are US$2. You can catch the cars at any stop. Tickets are sold from machines at the terminals or from conductors along the way. MUNI passports can also be used on the cable cars, but no transfers are accepted. The 37 cable cars operate 6 am-midnight. Often there's a wait at the end of the line.

MUNI Buses and Streetcars—San Francisco Municipal Railway (MUNI) provides transportation throughout the city on trolley buses, streetcars and the world-famous cable cars. Transportation maps are available in hotels and at the Visitor Information Center, 900 Market St. (Hallidie Plaza, lower level), San Francisco, 94142-9097, phone 415-391-2000. Bus and streetcar fares are US$1 for adults, including transfers good for 90 minutes. Seniors (age 65 plus) and children ages 5-17 pay US$0.35. Exact change is required. MUNI passports are available for one day (US$6), three days (US$10) and seven days (US$15). Service on some lines is available 24 hours. For schedule information, call MUNI Transport, 415-673-6864.

SHIP
Pier 35—Cruise ships dock at Pier 35, which is at the northeastern tip of San Francisco at the intersection of North Point Street and the Embarcadero. Pier 39, the popular waterfront shopping area, is just a few blocks to the west. Just beyond that is Fisherman's Wharf.

TAXI
Even short distances can seem long in such a hilly city, so grab a cab. Generally efficient and courteous service is available 24 hours, but when it rains or major conventions crowd the city, service slows. Taxis are easily hailed, especially in high-traffic areas, and readily available at all major hotels.

DeSoto Cab—Basic flag-drop fee is US$1.70, and the standard rate for each additional mile is US$1.80, plus US$0.30 per minute for traffic delays and waiting. Up to five persons can normally ride for the price of one. Phone 415-673-1414.

Luxor Cab—Basic flag-drop fee is US$1.70, and the standard rate for each additional mile is US$1.80, plus US$0.30 per minute for traffic delays and waiting. Up to five persons can normally ride for the price of one. Phone 415-282-4141.

Veteran's Cab—Basic flag-drop fee is US$1.70, and the standard rate for each additional mile is US$1.80, plus US$0.30 per minute for traffic delays and waiting. Up to five persons can normally ride for the price of one. Phone 415-552-1300.

Yellow Cab—Basic flag-drop fee is US$1.70, and the standard rate for each additional mile is US$1.80, plus US$0.30 per minute for traffic delays and waiting. Up to five persons can normally ride for the price of one. Phone 415-626-2345

TRAIN
Amtrak—Travelers arriving on Amtrak should disembark in either the Emeryville station or in Oakland's Jack London Square station, both in the East Bay, east of the City. San Francisco passengers are taken by shuttle bus to the CalTrain Depot at 4th and/or Townsend Streets and to Amtrak's San Francisco office in the Ferry Building, at the foot of Market Street. You can buy tickets from the ticket office in Suite 140 (ground floor) of the Ferry Building. For schedule information and reservations, call 650-355-5110 or 800-872-7245.

ADDITIONAL TRANSPORTATION
SFO Rides, phone 800-736-2008, provides information on transportation to and from the airport.

Where to Stay

Visitors to the San Francisco Bay Area will find a full range of accommodations. While there are plenty of larger places to stay, the city itself abounds with small and elegant hotels, inns and bed-and-breakfasts. There are few budget properties, but less expensive accommodations can be found on Lombard Street in the Marina District, the so-called "motel row" where rooms cost half the downtown rates. Because most of the city's major sights are in a fairly compact area that's well served by public transportation, those staying anywhere in the area from the Financial District to Fisherman's Wharf can choose their hotel to suit their tastes, rather than worrying about location.

Advance reservations are always recommended in San Francisco, especially during the summer and fall tourist seasons. The sampling below lists hotels according to major locations convenient for most visitors: Union Square (which has the largest and best selection), Nob Hill, Embarcadero, SoMa and Fisherman's Wharf.

These accommodations are recommended by our correspondents; they are not intended to be a comprehensive list. The standard rate for a single room is defined as follows: $ = US$80-$140; $$ = US$141-$200; and $$$ = more than US$200. Parking in hotel garages can cost an additional US$20-$30 per day. Always inquire about special convention and/or weekend rates.

AIRPORT
San Francisco Airport Marriott—A mile south of the airport, this hotel has a good bayfront location. Request a room with a view of the water and the jumbo jets' dramatic landings. Big, sunlight-flooded lobby, two restaurants, pool, fitness room, whirlpool and saunas. Conferences handled expeditiously. $-$$. 1800 Old Bayshore Highway, Burlingame, phone 650-692-9100, fax 650-692-8016.

CITY
Donatello Hotel—The white-glove service is compatible with the formal, lush feel of this European-style hotel. Lavishly furnished rooms with original artwork on the walls. Exercise room, whirlpool, steam room but no pool. Restaurant with Northern Italian cuisine. Five floors of parking. Even-numbered rooms toward the front may be noisy: The hotel is just a block from busy Union Square. 501 Post St. $$. Phone 415-441-7100 or 800-227-3184, fax 415-885-8891.

Fairmont—World-famous, elegant, Continental-style hotel with modern 23-story tower at the City's most prestigious address (where the cable cars cross Nob Hill). Six restaurants, six lounges, including rooftop dining and cocktails. State-of-the-art business center, spa and fitness center, complimentary chauffeured car. 600 rooms. $$$. 950 Mason St., phone 415-772-5000, fax 415-772-5013.

Galleria Park—European-style hotel in the heart of the Financial District. Two fine restaurants, piano and oyster bar, business center, rooftop jogging track, health club. 177 rooms. $. 191 Sutter St., phone 415-781-3060, fax 415-951-9611.

Grand Hyatt—In the heart of the city on Union Square (at Post Street), the Grand Hyatt is perfectly situated for business, shopping or entertainment. Two restaurants, rooftop lounge, business center, health club. Town car service to the Financial District. 693 rooms. $$-$$$. 345 Stockton St., phone 415-398-1234, fax 415-403-4878.

Hotel Sheehan—A small, affordable hotel two blocks from Union Square and boasting the largest indoor, heated pool in San Francisco. One block from a cable-car line and convenient to shopping and the Theater District. 65 rooms. $. 620 Sutter St. (at Mason), phone 415-775-6500, fax 415-775-3271.

Hyatt Regency—A striking atrium hotel on the waterfront, this is a focal point of the Embarcadero Center business and shopping complex. Revolving rooftop restaurant and lounge. Business center. Guest privileges at nearby health club. 805 rooms. $$. 5 Embarcadero Center, phone 415-788-1234, fax 415-291-6538.

Palace Hotel—A grand hotel of elegance and comfort that has been a San Francisco tradition since 1875. Adjacent to the Financial District and a short walk to the Moscone Convention Center, Embarcadero and Union Square. Three restaurants, two lounges. Health spa with skylight pool, exercise room, business center. 550 rooms. $$$. 2 New Montgomery St., phone 415-512-1111, fax 415-243-4120.

Pan Pacific—This hotel with an atrium designed by John Portman is stunning, from its bronze fountain in the lobby to the Portuguese marble and brass bathrooms. Exceptional Asian-style hospitality. Personal valet service, excellent restaurant, business center, fitness center, in-room fax machines. 329 rooms. $$$. 500 Post St., phone 415-771-8600, fax 415-398-0267.

Renaissance Stanford Court—A classic, turn-of-the-century California hotel in a fashionable Nob Hill location. Luxurious rooms and baths. Exceptional restaurant (Fournou's Ovens), domed carriage court, paneled lounge. Business center. 402 rooms. $$$. 905 California St. (at Powell), phone 415-989-3500, fax 415-391-0513.

Sheraton at Fisherman's Wharf—If you must stay on Fisherman's Wharf, the Sheraton is conveniently located in its heart. Ask for a bayside room, because others may be cramped. Restaurant, lounge, heated outdoor pool, business center, underground parking. 524 rooms. $$. 2500 Mason St., 94133, phone 415-362-5500, fax 415-956-5275.

Westin St. Francis—Designed in 1904, this is a grand hotel in the finest San Francisco tradition. Cable car stop at the front door. Three restaurants, two lounges, business center, complimentary fitness center. Swimming and tennis can be arranged. A lovely afternoon high tea. 1,192 renovated rooms. $$-$$$. 335 Powell St. (at Union Square), phone 415-397-7000, fax 415-403-6865.

Money

BANKING
Bank of America—Airport banking is offered by Bank of America in the North Terminal mezzanine and in the International Terminal, phone 650-615-4700. Both branches are open Monday-Friday 8 am-4 pm.

BANKING HOURS
Most banks in the City are open Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm, Saturday 9 am-noon. Drive-through banking is generally available only outside downtown locations.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE
The currency of United States is the U.S. dollar (US$).

Currency conversion rates:

0.610 for one Australian dollar ($A)

0.680 for one Canadian dollar (Can$)

1.570 for one British pound (£)

Conversion rates were accurate at press time but are subject to change.

The currency is the U.S. dollar (US$). 100 cents = US$1.

Currency conversion rates:

0.620 for one Australian dollar ($A)

0.650 for one Canadian dollar (Can$)

1.540 for one British pound (L)

Most automated teller machines (ATMs) accept major bank cards (and credit cards if you obtain a PIN prior to travel) and dispense U.S. currency at the going rate of exchange. Your financial institution will charge a small ATM fee, but you avoid paying the commissions charged by bureaux de change.

American Express—Three offices provide currency exchanges: 124 Geary, near Union Square (Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday 9 am-1 pm); 455 Market St., near the Hyatt Regency, downtown (Monday-Friday 8:30 am-5:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-2 pm); and 560 California St., across from the Bank of America building, near Chinatown. Phone 800-461-8484.

Bank of America—Foreign currency services are offered at several Bank of America locations, including the airport branch in the International Terminal (upper level), open daily 7 am-11 pm, phone 650-742-8081. Foreign currency service is also available at the bank's main office in the Financial District, 345 Montgomery St., Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm, phone 415-622-2451.

Thomas Cook Currency Services—There are two downtown locations for Thomas Cook Currency Services: 75 Geary St., phone 415-362-3453 (Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 pm) and 1 Powell St. (in the Bank of America building), phone 415-956-5242 (Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm, Saturday 9 am-2 pm).

SALES/USE TAX
A state sales tax of 8.5% is charged for all purchases (except those for out-of-state delivery and food bought for preparation). There's a 14% transient occupancy tax.

Health Care

EMERGENCY HEALTH CARE
Dial 911 for emergencies and urgent ambulance service. For other ambulance service, call 415-931-3900. For the Poison Control Center, dial 800-523-2222.

Two physicians referral services are: Physicians Access, phone 415-397-2881, and Access Health Care, phone 415-565-6600. Monday-Friday 7:30 am-4:30 pm. The San Francisco Dental Society Referral Service is available 24 hours, phone 415-421-1435.

Emergency-room service is available at the following hospitals: St. Francis Memorial Hospital, 900 Hyde St. (at Pine Street), phone 415-353-6300; University of California, San Francisco, Medical Center, 505 Parnassus Ave., phone 415-476-1037; and San Francisco General Hospital, 1001 Potrero Ave. (Potrero Hill), phone 415-206-8111.

Traveler Medical Group, available 24 hours, makes outpatient calls. Multilingual, costs vary. Major credit cards. 490 Post St., Suite 225, phone 415-981-1102.

At the airport a 24-hour medical clinic is located in the International Terminal (lower level). Use a white courtesy phone to dial 70444.

HOSPITALS
Access Health Care—A physicians referral service is Access Health Care, phone 415-565-6600.

Physicians Access—A physicians referral service is Physicians Access, phone 415-397-2881.

San Francisco Dental Society Referral Service—The San Francisco Dental Society Referral Service is available 24 hours, phone 415-421-1435.

San Francisco General Hospital—Emergency-room service is available at San Francisco General Hospital, 1001 Potrero Ave. (Potrero Hill), phone 415-206-8111.

St. Francis Memorial Hospital—Emergency-room service is available at St. Francis Memorial Hospital, 900 Hyde St. (at Pine Street), phone 415-353-6300.

Traveler Medical Group—Traveler Medical Group, available 24 hours, makes outpatient calls. Multilingual, costs vary. Major credit cards. 490 Post St., Suite 225, phone 415-981-1102.

University of California, San Francisco, Medical Center—Emergency-room service is available at University of California, San Francisco, Medical Center, 505 Parnassus Ave., phone 415-476-1037.

PHARMACIES
Fairmont Hotel Pharmacy—The Fairmont Hotel Pharmacy, atop Nob Hill, is open Monday-Saturday 7:30 am-11 pm, Sunday 10 am-9 pm, but the pharmacist is on duty only Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-3:30 pm. 801 Powell St., phone 415-362-3000.

Merrill's—Merrill's pharmacy is open Monday-Friday 7:30 am-8 pm, Saturday 10 am-6 pm, 805 Market St. (at 4th Street), phone 415-781-1292; and Monday-Friday 8:30 am-6:30 pm, 390 Sutter St. (at Stockton), phone 415-434-8906.

Walgreens—For 24-hour service, you'll find Walgreens at 18th and Castro, phone 415-861-3136, and at Divisadero and Lombard, phone 415-931-6417.

DISABLED
SuperShuttle operates an access van to and from the airport for US$11. Call 24-48 hours in advance: 800-258-3826.

The MUNI Access Guide details the MUNI Accessible Services Program. Call for a copy of the guide or for up-to-date trip-planning information. 949 Presidio Ave., 94115, phone 415-923-6142, TDD 415-923-6366.

A Wheelchair Rider's Guide to San Francisco Bay and Nearby Shorelines details access to the waterfront. Free. Order from California Coastal Conservancy, 1330 Broadway, Suite 1100, Oakland, 94612, phone 510-286-1015.

For the hearing impaired, dial 800-772-3140 for TDD.

Communication

MAIL AND PACKAGE SERVICE
The Union Square U.S. Post Office has convenient hours for shoppers (it's in Macy's department store): Monday-Saturday 10 am-5:30 pm, Sunday 11 am-5 pm, 121 Stockton St., phone 800-275-8777. The Rincon Center Post Office, 180 Stewart St., in the Financial District, is open Monday-Friday 7 am-6 pm, Saturday 9 am-2 pm. The Embarcadero Gateway Station is open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-5:30 pm at 1 Embarcadero Center (at Clay Street). U.S. Post Office information: 415-550-5600.

At the airport, a self-service post office is open 24 hours in the South Terminal (lower level).

DHL—The downtown office of DHL is open Monday-Friday 10:15 am-6 pm at 345 California (at Battery Street), phone 800-225-5345. Call to schedule a pickup.

Federal Express—Federal Express operates offices throughout the City. The business center is open Monday-Friday 9 am-8 pm. It accepts packages for the East Coast and the Midwest until 5:45 pm, West Coast until 8 pm. 44 Montgomery St. FedEx also has an office in the Airline Business Center just off Union Square at 124 Geary St. Open Monday-Friday 9 am-5:45 pm. For information and pickups, call 800-463-3339.

Gateway Station—The Embarcadero Gateway Station is open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-5:30 pm at 1 Embarcadero Center (at Clay Street). U.S. Post Office information: 415-550-5600.

Mail Boxes Etc.—Mail Boxes Etc. (just off Union Square) offers a convenient location (and an added fee) for packing, shipping and receiving via several carriers, including UPS and Federal Express. Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 pm, 588 Sutter St., phone 415-834-1555.

Rincon Center—The Rincon Center Post Office, 180 Stewart St., in the Financial District, is open Monday-Friday 7 am-6 pm, Saturday 9 am-2 pm.

Union Square—The Union Square U.S. Post Office has convenient hours for shoppers (it's in Macy's department store): Monday-Saturday 10 am-5:30 pm, Sunday 11 am-5 pm, 121 Stockton St., phone 800-275-8777.

United Parcel Service—United Parcel Service (UPS) is open Monday-Friday 9 am-8 pm, 320 San Bruno Ave. at 16th Street, phone 800-742-5877. They'll pick up from residences and businesses the next day, after you call in the weight and dimensions of the package to be sent.

NEWSPAPERS AND MAGAZINES
Major daily newspapers are the morning San Francisco Chronicle and evening San Francisco Examiner. The two are combined on Sunday. These and other major papers are readily available at corner newsstands, vending machines and convenience stores throughout the city and at hotel gift shops and airport newsstands. The San Francisco Business Times is published weekly. Alternative weeklies proliferate in the Bay Area, along with a wide selection of foreign-language newspapers, including Chinese, Japanese, Korean and Spanish. San Francisco Focus, a magazine that covers the city and the bay area, is published monthly.

NEWSSTANDS
Cafe de la Presse—One of the best sources is Cafe de la Presse at the corner of Grant Avenue and Bush Street (the entrance to Chinatown), with a good selection of foreign and domestic newspapers and magazines. Daily 7 am-11 pm, phone 415-398-2680.

Harold's—Harold's International News Stand, just outside the Theater District, has a wide selection of international and U.S. newspapers and magazines, including Canadian and Australian ones. Daily 7 am-11 pm, 524 Geary St., phone 415-441-2665.

ENTERTAINMENT GUIDES
Local entertainment and events guides: The San Francisco Book, a quarterly available for US$3 from the San Francisco Convention and Visitors Information Center, 900 Market St., 94142-9097, phone 415-391-2000; Where; San Francisco Quick Guide (monthly); Key: This Week in San Francisco; Bay City Guide (monthly); San Francisco Chronicle's Datebook, the pink section of the Sunday newspaper, summarizing theater, music and art events; Bay Guardian (weekly); SF Weekly and The San Francisco Guide (monthly).

Business Services

Most major hotels catering to business clients offer business centers with a full range of equipment and services. See also the extensive lists of member services in three San Francisco Convention and Visitors Bureau publications: Facilities and Services Directory, Professional Travel Planner's Guide and The San Francisco Book. Contact the Convention and Visitors Bureau at P.O. Box 429097, San Francisco, 94142-9097, phone 415-974-6900, fax 415-227-2602.

AUDIOVISUAL EQUIPMENT
Intellisys Group—140 E. Dana, Mountain View, phone 800-828-6464

McCune Audio Video—McCune Audio Video (24-hour pickup and delivery service), 2200 Cesar Chavez St., phone 415-641-1111.

Presentation Services—Ritz-Carlton, 600 Stockton St., phone 415-398-6815

CELLULAR-PHONE RENTAL
Action Cellular Rent A Phone International—Offers 24-hour pickup and delivery. US$1.75 per minute. 99 Osgood Place, 4th Floor, phone 415-929-0400 or 800-727-0600

COMPUTER RENTAL
Micro Computer Support—Monday-Friday 8:30 am-5:30 pm, 330 1st St., phone 415-777-2112 or 800-799-2112.

Micro-Rent—Monday-Friday 8 am-5 pm, 505 Tamal Plaza, Corte Madera, 94925, phone 415-927-1212 or 800-444-8780;

Rent-A-Computer—Monday-Friday 8 am-5 pm, 660 Davis St., phone 415-398-7800, fax 415-398-2320.

CONVENTION SERVICES AND MEETING PLANNING
California Host—Monday-Friday 8:30 am-5:30 pm, 333 Market St., Suite 3300, San Francisco, 94105, phone 415-442-5800, fax 415-442-5818.

Concourse Exhibition Center—635 8th St. (at Brannan), phone 415-487-3293.

Moscone Convention Center—Convention Plaza, 201 3rd St., Suite 900, phone 415-974-4000, fax 415-978-5956.

San Francisco Convention and Visitors Bureau—201 3rd St., Suite 900, phone 415-974-6900.

MESSENGER SERVICES
Ace Courier Express—151 Potrero Ave., phone 415-487-9667.

Aero Special Delivery—1900 3rd St., phone 800-303-2376.

PHOTOCOPYING
Direct Copy—In the Financial District; open Monday-Friday 8 am-7 pm, pickup and delivery available, 44 Montgomery St., phone 415-391-9208.

Mail Boxes Etc.—One of the few businesses, apart from the hotels, that offer copying and faxing near Union Square. Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 pm, 588 Sutter St., phone 415-834-1555.

Speedway Copy Systems—Offers pickup and delivery and fax service. Eleven locations in the City, including 201 Sansome St., phone 415-495-4330, and 578 Market St. (at Montgomery), phone 415-956-1590.

SECRETARIAL SERVICES
Bentley Personnel Services—Call a day in advance. Offers a full range of on-site or off-site secretarial services, including typing, copying, faxing, mailing and transcribing. Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, 580 Market St., Suite 350, phone 415-986-3777

Gretchen Friday Office Services—Call a day in advance. Provides word processing and fax services on site. Monday-Friday 8:30 am-5:30 pm, 221 Main St., Suite 1540, phone 415-974-5500.

TRANSLATORS AND INTERPRETERS
Center for Language Services, Monterey Institute of International Studies—Provides interpreting and document translation in more than 30 languages, with delivery by fax. Monday-Friday 8:30 am-4:30 pm, 425 Van Buren St., Monterey, 93940, phone 408-647-4170, fax 408-647-3534.

Design Specialists—Focuses on live simultaneous translating in all languages. Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, P.O. Box 4221, Mountain View, 94040, phone 650-969-0397, fax 650-969-4257.

Lingualink—Offers interpreting and document translation Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, 1541 Bayshore Highway, Burlingame, 94010, phone 650-259-4920, fax 650-969-4638.

For More Information

CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU
San Francisco Convention and Visitors Bureau—The business office (including convention sales offices) is south of Market (SoMa District) across from the Moscone Convention Center, 201 3rd St., Suite 900, phone 415-974-6900, fax 415-227-2602.

TOURIST OFFICES
California Division of Tourism—P.O. Box 1499, Sacramento, CA 95812, phone 916-322-1397 or 800-862-2543, fax 916-322-3402.

Visitor Information Center—Centrally located in the Hallidie Plaza (lower level) at Market and Powell Streets. (Hallidie Plaza is the starting point for the Powell Street cable cars and a major BART station.) The staff is multilingual. Monday-Friday 9 am-5:30 pm, Saturday until 3 pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm. 900 Market St., 94142-9097, phone 415-391-2000.

San Francisco Calendar

INTRODUCTION
Vibrant SAN FRANCISCO, consistently dazzling visitors with its beauty and vigor, seems always to be mounting a celebration of some sort. The city's long-standing ballet, symphony and opera companies perform for sell-out audiences, and the crazed Beach Blanket Babylon revue continues to astonish and delight its overflowing audiences. Sports enthusiasts take in home games all around the bay area: the NFL San Francisco 49ers play at 3Com, formerly Candlestick Park, the NBA Golden State Warriors can be seen at the Arena in Oakland and the NHL's San Jose Sharks skate up stormy rivalry at the San Jose Arena. And for holiday festivals, the Chinese New Year celebrations in this city by the bay are the nation's best.

Note: If possible, make reservations for cultural events several weeks in advance because they tend to sell out early.

To call any of the phone numbers listed in this calendar from outside the U.S. or Canada, you must first dial your country's international access code, followed by the U.S. country code, 1.

Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.

APRIL 2000
Early April—Spring Cup 2000 Regatta. America's Cup winners and Olympics sailing team members in competitive fleet races. Bay end of Pier 39, phone 415-705-5500.

Early April—NHL Hockey. The San Jose Sharks play home games at San Jose Arena, 525 W. Santa Clara St., San Jose. For ticket information, phone 408-287-9200 or 800-225-2277. Season concludes late December.

Early-Late April—Major-League Baseball. The San Francisco Giants play home games at 3Com (formerly Candlestick) Park, 8 mi/13 km south of downtown on Bayshore Freeway (Highway 101). The Oakland As play ball at the Oakland Coliseum Arena, 7000 Coliseum Way, Oakland (on BART). For individual tickets for either team, phone Bass Tickets, 510-762-2255. Season continues through mid October.

Early-Late April—San Francisco International Film Festival. The U.S.'s oldest cinematic festival incorporates all categories. Films shown at a number of venues, among them the Castro Theater at Castro and Market Streets and the Kabuki at Post and Filmore. For information about programs and times, phone 415-931-3456 or 415-929-5000. Continues through early May.

1-23 Apr—Theater. "The House of Mirth" is a play by Giles Havergal from the novel by Edith Wharton. American Conservatory Theater, Geary Theater, 415 Geary (between Mason and Taylor), phone 415-834-3200. For tickets, phone the box office, 415-749-2228. Concludes 23 Apr.

1, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 28, 29, 30 Apr—Dance. The San Francisco Ballet performs full-length, neoclassical and contemporary ballets. War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Ave. at Grove Street (Civic Center), phone 415-865-2000. Continues through 7 May.

1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30 Apr—Musical. Beach Blanket Babylon continues its zany, garish satire of popular culture. Wednesday-Sunday. Order tickets (US$20-$55) in advance. 678 Green St. (North Beach), phone 415-421-4222, fax 415-421-4817.

15, 16, 22, 23 Apr—Cherry Blossom Festival. Japanese street fair with food, flower arranging, arts and crafts and a parade 23 Apr. It departs from the Civic Center and ends in Japantown, via Geary Street. For more information, phone 415-563-2313.

Throughout April—Art Exhibit. Second annual showcase of Bay Area art. Yerba Buena Center for the Arts, 701 Mission St., phone 415-978-2787. Continues through late June.

Throughout April—Concerts. The San Francisco Symphony, conducted by Michael Tilson Thomas, performs at Davies Symphony Hall, 201 Van Ness Ave. For information and tickets, phone 415-864-6000. Continues through late May.

Throughout April—NBA Basketball. The NBA Golden State Warriors play home games at the Arena in Oakland, Hegenberger Road, Oakland. For tickets, phone 888-479-4667. Season concludes late April.

MAY 2000
Early May—San Francisco International Film Festival. The U.S.'s oldest cinematic festival incorporates all categories. Films shown at a number of venues, among them the Castro Theater at Castro and Market Streets and the Kabuki at Post and Filmore. For information about programs and times, phone 415-931-3456 or 415-929-5000. Concludes early May.

Early-Late May—Union Street Spring Festival. A spring festival of arts and crafts takes place on Union Street, complete with street performers, a dance contest, waiters race and fashion show. For more information, phone 415-249-4625.

2-7 May—Dance. The San Francisco Ballet performs full-length, neoclassical and contemporary ballets. War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Ave. at Grove Street (Civic Center), phone 415-865-2000. Concludes 7 May.

3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 31 May—Musical. Beach Blanket Babylon continues its zany, garish satire of popular culture. Wednesday-Sunday. Order tickets (US$20-$55) in advance. 678 Green St. (North Beach), phone 415-421-4222, fax 415-421-4817.

4-31 May—Theater. Edward II by Christopher Marlowe. American Conservatory Theater, Geary Theater, 415 Geary (between Mason and Taylor), phone 415-834-3200. For tickets, phone the box office, 415-749-2228. Continues through 4 Jun.

7 May—Cinco de Mayo. Commemorates Mexico's Battle of Puebla (1862). Arts, crafts and food in the Mission District, plus a parade at 11 am, starting at 24th and Bryant and continuing to Harrison Street. Phone 415-826-1401.

21 May—Bay to Breakers Foot Race. The world's largest, with more than 70,000 costumed participants going from the Embarcadero to The Great Highway. Starting time: 8 am. Sponsored by the San Francisco Examiner. Information: 415-777-7770.

29 May—Memorial Day. Public holiday.

Throughout May—Art Exhibit. Second annual showcase of Bay Area art. Yerba Buena Center for the Arts, 701 Mission St., phone 415-978-2787. Continues through late June.

Throughout May—Major-League Baseball. The San Francisco Giants play home games at 3Com (formerly Candlestick) Park, 8 mi/13 km south of downtown on Bayshore Freeway (Highway 101). The Oakland As play ball at the Oakland Coliseum Arena, 7000 Coliseum Way, Oakland (on BART). For individual tickets for either team, phone Bass Tickets, 510-762-2255. Season continues through mid October.

Throughout May—Concerts. The San Francisco Symphony, conducted by Michael Tilson Thomas, performs at Davies Symphony Hall, 201 Van Ness Ave. For information and tickets, phone 415-864-6000. Concludes late May.

JUNE 2000
Early-Late June—Opera. The San Francisco Opera performs at the War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Avenue. For information and tickets, phone 415-864-3330. Continues through early November.

1-4 Jun—Theater. Edward II by Christopher Marlowe. American Conservatory Theater, Geary Theater, 415 Geary (between Mason and Taylor), phone 415-834-3200. For tickets, phone the box office, 415-749-2228. Concludes 4 Jun.

1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 28, 29, 30 Jun—Musical. Beach Blanket Babylon continues its zany, garish satire of popular culture. Wednesday-Sunday. Order tickets (US$20-$55) in advance. 678 Green St. (North Beach), phone 415-421-4222, fax 415-421-4817.

Throughout June—Art Exhibit. Second annual showcase of Bay Area art. Yerba Buena Center for the Arts, 701 Mission St., phone 415-978-2787. Concludes late June.

Throughout June—Major-League Baseball. The San Francisco Giants play home games at 3Com (formerly Candlestick) Park, 8 mi/13 km south of downtown on Bayshore Freeway (Highway 101). The Oakland As play ball at the Oakland Coliseum Arena, 7000 Coliseum Way, Oakland (on BART). For individual tickets for either team, phone Bass Tickets, 510-762-2255. Season continues through mid October.

JULY 2000
Early July—Opera. The San Francisco Opera performs at the War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Avenue. For information and tickets, phone 415-864-3330. Concludes early November.

1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30 Jul—Musical. Beach Blanket Babylon continues its zany, garish satire of popular culture. Wednesday-Sunday. Order tickets (US$20-$55) in advance. 678 Green St. (North Beach), phone 415-421-4222, fax 415-421-4817.

2, 9, 16, 23, 30 Jul—Stern Grove Midsummer Music Festival. Concerts with renowned music and dance groups in an outdoor theater. Stern Grove, 19th Avenue and Sloat Boulevard. Information: 415-252-6252, Web http://www.sterngrove.org.

4 Jul—Independence Day. Public holiday.

Throughout July—Major-League Baseball. The San Francisco Giants play home games at 3Com (formerly Candlestick) Park, 8 mi/13 km south of downtown on Bayshore Freeway (Highway 101). The Oakland As play ball at the Oakland Coliseum Arena, 7000 Coliseum Way, Oakland (on BART). For individual tickets for either team, phone Bass Tickets, 510-762-2255. Season continues through mid October.

AUGUST 2000
2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 30, 31 Aug—Musical. Beach Blanket Babylon continues its zany, garish satire of popular culture. Wednesday-Sunday. Order tickets (US$20-$55) in advance. 678 Green St. (North Beach), phone 415-421-4222, fax 415-421-4817.

Throughout August—Major-League Baseball. The San Francisco Giants play home games at 3Com (formerly Candlestick) Park, 8 mi/13 km south of downtown on Bayshore Freeway (Highway 101). The Oakland As play ball at the Oakland Coliseum Arena, 7000 Coliseum Way, Oakland (on BART). For individual tickets for either team, phone Bass Tickets, 510-762-2255. Season continues through mid October.

SEPTEMBER 2000
Early-Late September—NFL Football. The San Francisco 49ers play home games at 3Com (formerly Candlestick) Park, San Francisco. For tickets, phone 415-656-4900. Season continues through late December.

1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 27, 28, 29, 30 Sep—Musical. Beach Blanket Babylon continues its zany, garish satire of popular culture. Wednesday-Sunday. Order tickets (US$20-$55) in advance. 678 Green St. (North Beach), phone 415-421-4222, fax 415-421-4817.

2, 3, 9, 10, 16, 17, 23, 24, 30 Sep—Shakespeare Festival. Shakespeare's classics performed in Golden Gate Park. Free. 1:30 pm. For more information, call 415-422-2222.

4 Sep—Labor Day. Public holiday.

Late September—Opera. The San Francisco Opera performs at the War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Avenue. For information and tickets, phone 415-864-3330. Continues through early November.

Throughout September—Major-League Baseball. The San Francisco Giants play home games at 3Com (formerly Candlestick) Park, 8 mi/13 km south of downtown on Bayshore Freeway (Highway 101). The Oakland As play ball at the Oakland Coliseum Arena, 7000 Coliseum Way, Oakland (on BART). For individual tickets for either team, phone Bass Tickets, 510-762-2255. Season continues through mid October.

OCTOBER 2000
Early-Mid October—Major-League Baseball. The San Francisco Giants play home games at 3Com (formerly Candlestick) Park, 8 mi/13 km south of downtown on Bayshore Freeway (Highway 101). The Oakland As play ball at the Oakland Coliseum Arena, 7000 Coliseum Way, Oakland (on BART). For individual tickets for either team, phone Bass Tickets, 510-762-2255. Season concludes mid October.

Early-Late October—NHL Hockey. The San Jose Sharks play home games at San Jose Arena, 525 W. Santa Clara St., San Jose. For ticket information, phone 408-287-9200 or 800-225-2277. Season continues through late December.

1, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29 Oct—Musical. Beach Blanket Babylon continues its zany, garish satire of popular culture. Wednesday-Sunday. Order tickets (US$20-$55) in advance. 678 Green St. (North Beach), phone 415-421-4222, fax 415-421-4817.

9 Oct—Indigenous Peoples Day (Columbus Day). Public holiday.

Throughout October—NFL Football. The San Francisco 49ers play home games at 3Com (formerly Candlestick) Park, San Francisco. For tickets, phone 415-656-4900. Season continues through late December.

Throughout October—Opera. The San Francisco Opera performs at the War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Avenue. For information and tickets, phone 415-864-3330. Continues through early November.

NOVEMBER 2000
Early-Mid November—Opera. The San Francisco Opera performs at the War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Avenue. For information and tickets, phone 415-864-3330. Concludes early November.

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 29, 30 Nov—Musical. Beach Blanket Babylon continues its zany, garish satire of popular culture. Wednesday-Sunday. Order tickets (US$20-$55) in advance. 678 Green St. (North Beach), phone 415-421-4222, fax 415-421-4817.

11 Nov—Veterans Day. Public holiday.

23 Nov—Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday.

Throughout November—NFL Football. The San Francisco 49ers play home games at 3Com (formerly Candlestick) Park, San Francisco. For tickets, phone 415-656-4900. Season continues through late December.

Throughout November—NHL Hockey. The San Jose Sharks play home games at San Jose Arena, 525 W. Santa Clara St., San Jose. For ticket information, phone 408-287-9200 or 800-225-2277. Season continues through late December.

DECEMBER 2000
1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31 Dec—Musical. Beach Blanket Babylon continues its zany, garish satire of popular culture. Wednesday-Sunday. Order tickets (US$20-$55) in advance. 678 Green St. (North Beach), phone 415-421-4222, fax 415-421-4817.

25 Dec—Christmas. Public holiday.

Throughout December—NFL Football. The San Francisco 49ers play home games at 3Com (formerly Candlestick) Park, San Francisco. For tickets, phone 415-656-4900. Season concludes late December.

Throughout December—NHL Hockey. The San Jose Sharks play home games at San Jose Arena, 525 W. Santa Clara St., San Jose. For ticket information, phone 408-287-9200 or 800-225-2277. Season concludes late December.

JANUARY 2001
1 Jan—New Year's Day. Public holiday.

3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 31 Jan—Musical. Beach Blanket Babylon continues its zany, garish satire of popular culture. Wednesday-Sunday. Order tickets (US$20-$55) in advance. 678 Green St. (North Beach), phone 415-421-4222, fax 415-421-4817.

15 Jan—Martin Luther King Day. Public holiday.

FEBRUARY 2001
1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 28 Feb—Musical. Beach Blanket Babylon continues its zany, garish satire of popular culture. Wednesday-Sunday. Order tickets (US$20-$55) in advance. 678 Green St. (North Beach), phone 415-421-4222, fax 415-421-4817.

19 Feb—Presidents' Day. Public holiday.

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