The Wall and all

Acupuncture diagnosis

Sunday, June 20 Day four was wet and windy on the wall, but interesting nevertheless. What could have been 97 degrees was only 65 and the hawkers were busy selling more hooded sweatshirts that t-shirts. The day began with a cloisonnČ factory where a few workers had been drawn in on a Sunday so that the tourists could watch them work before being taken to the shop for souvenirs. The process of cloisonnČ -- enamel colors inlaid with a copper filigree -- is most impressive and we all found plenty to photograph and admire. From there we headed to the Ming tombs, where 13 of the 16 Ming emperors are buried. There isn't a lot to see except a small museum with a few select imperial items including some fabulous garments. More memorable was the Sacred Road -- about a kilometer -- which was traditionally walked by the emperor, who otherwise rode in a sedan chair. It was perhaps better in the London-style mist, with weeping willow trees bordering the two sides and a notable absence of hawkers on the path. Lunch was by a lake where there is a small amusement park, just a tiny anticipation of a huge Disney World type structure which we passed on our way (now under construction). It is Chinese, not Disney, but the turrets looked much more like something from the Magic Kingdom that those of the Great Wall where we were headed. While at lunch we were introduced to an acupuncturist whom, our guide assured us, would identify our ailments while checking our pulse. When in Rome, as they say, so I let him have a go at it. He suggested first back ailments and then perhaps shoulder, or did he mean knee. I finally decided to help him out and asked if he could do anything for sinuses, so of course he offered, and for $25 he came to the hotel tonight for the purpose. It was an hilarious event, I only wish I had videotaped it. His English was not much better than my Chinese so we used both and lots of sign language. Once the pins were set, he explained we need twenty minutes, and then suggested we watch television, which was a fine idea except I was not to move and my Chinese lessons at Poly had not included the words for "remote control." So in the end, we sat in silence, after which he assured me I was fine.